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Cactus care. The necessary conditions. 4.30 /5 (86.00%) 10 votes
Cacti are autotrophic plants, that is, those that independently create the substances necessary for their growth from inorganic and organic compounds. In order for a normal metabolism to occur in a cactus, it needs nutrient salts, water, carbon dioxide, air oxygen, as well as heat and light. For assimilation, or photosynthesis, along with carbon dioxide, the relationship between light and the intensity of illumination that affects the green plant is decisive. The productivity of photosynthesis and, consequently, growth depends on the presence of the other listed factors.
Cactus care. Light
Most cacti as residents are especially demanding of light. Light is the main growth factor for cactus. During the growing season, it is especially important to take care of good lighting. Only during a strictly observed dry period - a dormant period with a corresponding decrease in the temperature of the content - can these plants be content with a small amount of light.
All pubescent, strongly prickly cacti, as well as species with a developed wax layer on the surface, require high illumination. During the winter dormant period, unpretentious species can be kept in dimly lit cold rooms. Plants are kept dry, since everything that can cause unwanted growth at this time should be avoided in low light. Any new shoot can deform the plant, make it less decorative.
Very little lighting can be painlessly tolerated by green cereuses, and species.
Plants that have become unaccustomed to light in the spring are sensitive to the bright rays of the sun, this easily leads to burns of the epidermis. That is why it is recommended to take the plants to fresh air on a cloudy day, or to put the plants first in a shaded place. And yet, in the first one or two weeks after removal, you need to protect cacti from direct sun rays, especially at noon time, otherwise you can easily harm the plants.
And young plants are especially sensitive in spring and summer to direct sunlight. They need light shade that suits their natural habitats. Indeed, with the beginning of the rainy season, intensive growth of all other vegetation accompanying cacti begins there. Under the cover of developing cereals, annual and perennial plants, as well as trees, germinating seeds and young seedlings of cacti find protection from the scorching rays of the sun. Uniform soil moisture and diffused light favor long-term growth.
Therefore, under culture conditions, crops and young plants in sunny days must be protected from the midday sun. Long-term shading is not recommended: morning sun, afternoon light, as well as full light in cloudy days will only benefit the plant. Prolonged growth with a lack of light leads to the formation of undesirable forms: an atypical appearance, plants become susceptible to diseases, as their tissues lose their strength.
The intensity of light, more precisely, illumination, is easily measured and can be expressed in numbers. The unit of illumination is lux (from Latin “light”). The optimal indicator for photosynthesis in most cacti is slightly more than 10,000 lux. When grown on artificial light favorable indicators are from 5,000 to 15,000 lux. For artificial supplementary lighting, special lamps are used, selected taking into account the characteristics of plants.
Cactus care. Air intake and circulation
Cacti - inhabitants mountainous areas, steppes, deserts and semi-deserts, where there is a lot of fresh air and strong winds as if accustomed to such conditions. Even species growing as epiphytes in the rainforest choose more ventilated places in the branches and treetops. From this it is clear that under the conditions of culture, for the normal development of plants, an influx of fresh air is required. Warm stale air is unsuitable for long-term maintenance of these plants.
Only in spring, when growth resumes after a long winter dormant period, cacti can create similar conditions for several weeks. But even then very soon it will be necessary to take care of air circulation. And in autumn, and on warmer winter days, one must not forget about airing. Indeed, in a stuffy atmosphere, plants are much more easily exposed to various diseases.
On the contrary, to dry room air cacti are much less sensitive than others houseplants. In natural habitats, most species spend whole days in conditions of significant dryness - sometimes an indicator relative humidity air is less than 10%! But still, at night, cacti often use the dew that falls during a sharp cold snap. Therefore, in culture conditions, it is recommended to spray the cacti early in the morning and in the evening, using a sprayer with a very fine spray, which forms almost a fog.
Temperature is an important factor in cactus care.
The process of growth and shaping of plants is largely determined by light and temperature conditions. This effect will be optimal if both of these factors act on the plant in close relationship.
The presence of favorable indicators of light and heat, along with an adequate supply of water and nutrients, ensures good growth and leads to the formation of a healthy, with a typical plant appearance for this species.
The temperature optimum is closely related to the intensity of illumination. Significant illumination for the best photosynthesis requires a correspondingly higher temperature. In low light, the temperature optimum is significantly reduced.
Inconsistency between these factors - for example, high temperature with little light - leads to undesirable stretching of plants. Cacti, at least during growth, are extremely thermophilic, but still at night they need a significant drop in temperature to 18-10 ° C. Therefore, it is absolutely necessary to ventilate greenhouses, greenhouses and other enclosed spaces well. Air circulation prevents the danger of overheating during the day and provides the necessary cooling at night.
Vigorous, rain-tolerant species respond particularly well to outdoor summer keeping. Direct weather influences such as sun, wind, temperature fluctuations, rain and night dew are favorable for strong healthy growth. From mid-May to mid-late September, these plants can be in the air. Sunny, warm summer months give, of course, significantly top scores than cold and rainy.
In autumn, when the days become shorter and the air temperature drops, cacti gradually stop their growth. The necessary preparation for the winter dormancy period is achieved by reducing watering.
Lobivia yajoana - Lobivia jajoiana / Echinopsis marsoneri
The temperature favorable for the winter dry period, for most cacti, lies in the range of 6-10 ° C. Some species are somewhat more demanding and need 12-18 ° C. Only certain species of such genera as Echinocereus, Echinopsis, and prefer more low temperatures, will thank the lush spring flowering.
Lowering the temperature to several degrees of frost is quite painlessly tolerated by some types of cacti originating from higher latitudes. North America and highlands South America, if these plants were kept in a timely manner, that is, many weeks before the onset of frost, they were kept absolutely dry. Insensitive were squat and (not without reason called "open ground prickly pears"), which, in sunny places protected from rain in the garden, also endure a harsh winter.
Numerous cacti need a period of dormancy at low temperatures, as this stimulates flowering. This long-known observation explains why cacti wintering in warm living quarters almost never bloom. But after 2-3 months cold content, high temperature and significant lighting will contribute to the development of flowers. Most cacti can be kept in winter at approximately the same temperature.
Epiphytic cacti, that is, those that live by settling on other plants, as a rule, require milder conditions. But this will be discussed in a separate section.
Water regime
Water is the basic element of plant life. Their nutrition initially depends on the presence of a sufficiently large amount of soil moisture. Water dissolves the nutrient salts in the soil and converts them into a form that is assimilated by plants. Together with water, they are absorbed by the roots in the form of nutrient solutions and enter the flow of nutrients going through the conducting vessels to the plant organs, which use it. The formation of new cells and growth in general can ultimately be carried out only with the help of water.
Cacti and other succulents inhabit places that have experienced severe water shortages for a long time. In order to survive drought for weeks and even months, and sometimes even for years, they store moisture in a short time, when it is available, in its storage tissue and is then used very sparingly due to very limited evaporation.
Everyone reacts to high temperature and lighting, unlike other plants, increases transpiration, but, on the contrary, reduces it, since their stomata (cells through which gas exchange is carried out) are deeply immersed in the tissue and open only at night.
Long periods of drought result in significant water loss by plants. Indeed, some species painlessly tolerate a reduction in their volume to 60% of the norm. On the other hand, the body of a cactus can be 95% water.
These amazing creatures, easily enduring hunger and thirst, at a favorable time should intensively use moisture and water dissolved in it. nutrients. They not only have to refill their water-storing organs with moisture, but also provide growth, which depends on the amount of water consumed and the nutrients dissolved in it.
Dew and fog also play an important role in the life of cacti. Many species can absorb this moisture directly through spines or hairs.
Most cacti go through a dormant period during our dark and cold winter. The exception is South American globular cacti and various epiphytes, some of which even bloom in winter (Schlumbergera, various and related genera). These dormant species are kept cold and dry. From late October - early November, watering is reduced to a minimum (with a few exceptions). Plants that need to overwinter in warm living rooms or work areas should receive some water every 8-10 days.
Some general rules for watering:
- should only be done when the earth or its replacement substrate begins to dry out. When in doubt, remember: better a little late than too early; better to underfill than to overfill.
- To avoid growth retardation, the substrate must not dry out completely during the growing season.
- There are no recipes that would indicate how often a particular plant should be watered. The cactus grower determines the correct watering time and the right amount of water by observation. If the plants are in a period of growth, they must be watered constantly and thoroughly. It is better to water less often, but as it should, than often and little by little.
- Water stagnation must be avoided! Severe root damage is often the result of water stagnation, which occurs as a result of over-watering with insufficient or no drainage. Excess water is recommended to be removed from the pan after watering. It is best to use settled water at room temperature.
When is the best time to water?
Since we water cacti from above, in no case should you water during the hot midday hours in summer, so as not to damage the plants with a burn or a sharp change in temperature. After all, water drops falling on the plant in strong light can play the role of a magnifying lens.
In the warm season, it is watered mainly at the end of the day or in the evening. Then the water will remain in the ground longer - it will not evaporate so quickly and will bring more benefits to the plant. This is quite consistent with the characteristics of plant growth in natural habitats in their homeland. As a rule, precipitation falls there in the afternoon or at night. Thus, the plants have several hours to use the water before another day arrives with withering winds and sun.
In well-ventilated greenhouses, the conditions are approximately the same. On cold rainy days, you should completely refrain from watering. Cacti will still retard their growth.
If we need to thoroughly water the cacti in the cold season, it is better to do this in the morning or in the afternoon, so that the earth dries up again before evening. The same applies to spring time. In living rooms and office spaces, watering can be done at any time.
Watering from below
Watering from below has its advantages. With this method, water enters the area where the root hairs are located, which absorb it. When watering from above, it does not always penetrate deep enough, especially if the earth ball is very dry. Uniform and thorough moistening of an earthen clod in a pot or earth in a large container requires watering at significant intervals. In many species, the root neck is very sensitive to moisture.
Strongly lowered cacti, as well as species with a cushion-shaped growth, should also not be watered from above. For all these cases, bottom watering is ideal. Potted plants grown singly are usually placed on one common pallet or grouped together (depending on the size of the pots or the need for water and nutrients) by placing it in plastic boxes. Zinc containers are not recommended - they can have a bad effect on plants with their secretions.
In greenhouses - on racks and hanging shelves - small areas on which cacti are located can be separated from each other using plastic wrap. In no case should large and small pots be placed together, or plants with different requirements for environmental conditions. Shelves planted with cacti or greenhouses planted in the ground can also be watered using the method of watering from below, you just need to pay attention to the fact that the surface of the earth must be flat, without height differences. Good drainage of coarse gravel, lavalite, brick chips, crushed pumice or similar material can help here, the use of which ensures an even distribution of water or nutrient solution. Water thus gradually penetrates into the root system.
It is also possible to completely abandon the use of traditional soil by planting plants directly in one of the mineral substrates listed below. Then the flow of water and minerals will be carried out, as in hydroponics, with the help of special nutrient solutions.
For sowing and growing seedlings, the condition of which is very dependent on uniform soil moisture, the method of flooding, or watering from below, is the most reliable. It is best to use exclusively mineral fine-grained substrates. Before use, the substrate is washed well to free from small silty particles, and disinfected with steam or boiling water.
However, when using this irrigation method, the danger of stagnant moisture should not be underestimated. Any water remaining on the tray that has not soaked in after 30 minutes will be excess. It must be removed or taken away.
If this is not done, the roots seem to suffocate without access to air and rot, the earth becomes swampy and acidic. Therefore, it is necessary to learn by experience how to give cacti the right amount of water. Flooding is done every one to two weeks during the growth period. The water should not be cold.
fogging spraying
Misting (as a faint semblance of the conditions in which cacti grow in their homeland and receive moisture in the form of night dew) in the summer is loved by most types of cacti. Spraying with a fine spray of plants is carried out only on warm days, early in the morning and in the evening. On cold rainy days, and of course in winter, any wetting of the plants should be avoided so as not to cause fungal and other diseases.
Plants that are in the fresh air do not need to be sprayed, because they already find themselves in conditions at night. high humidity air. And some cacti are able, through their spines or hairs, to absorb moisture from dew and fog.
In conditions of stuffy heavy pre-thunderstorm air, when cacti (this happens in summer) find themselves in conditions of high humidity, temperature and light, all life processes are activated in them. To create a similar climate in the greenhouse, the paths are often sprayed and moistened.
At the beginning of the growth period (March-April), it is very useful to spray the cacti with warm water (30-50 ° C). With real watering, you must first be very careful and water little by little, since fine root hairs die off in a significant amount as a result of prolonged dryness. It takes a lot of light, heat and moisture to re-form them. Under favorable conditions, this occurs within a few days. Cacti that are heavily waxed, such as Stenocereus (Hertrichocereus) beneckei, should not be sprayed at all, as their wax coating is easily damaged by drops of water.
Cactus care and nutrition
In the presence of basic growth factors, cacti show significant nutrient requirements. They receive them in the form of top dressing. In this case, the correct composition of the fertilizer mixture is extremely important. The time of feeding and their quantity are also of decisive importance. The use of commercially available cactus fertilizers, which are suitable for many other succulents, will help to avoid feeding errors.
Obtained as a result of long-term observations and experiments, they contain a complete set of macro- and microelements necessary for succulents that meet all their needs. When using other fertilizers, it is necessary to know exactly the features of their action. Plant nutrition is associated with both basic, that is, macroelements, and microelements.
Macronutrients:
Carbon (C), hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), sulfur (S), potassium (K), magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca) and iron (Fe).
Trace elements:
Boron (B), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), molybdenum (Mo), sodium (Na), aluminum (A1), silicon (Si), and chlorine (C1).
With the exception of oxygen, nutrients are not perceived in the form individual elements but in the form of chemical compounds. Due to complex chemical processes, nutrient uptake by the roots depends on good air access to the soil. Reduced oxygen content in the soil causes starvation of plants, regardless of the availability of nutrients in the soil. That is why it is so important to constantly loosen the surface of the earth in pots, to remove a film of algae that prevents air from penetrating into the ground.
Influence of individual elements
Nitrogen
required for the construction of various proteins. It promotes the growth of shoots and leaves, the formation of organic matter.
An excess of nitrogen leads to undesirable phenomena: a loose structure of tissues, weakness of cell walls. As a result, susceptibility to diseases increases, natural compact growth is lost, and the ability to bloom is weakened.
At the beginning of the growth period, the plant naturally needs a moderate amount of nitrogen. After all, the areas of natural growth of succulents are poor in nitrogenous substances, but with the beginning of the rainy season, and with it growth, plants still, as a rule, find some amount of these substances in the soil and use them. Nitrogen salts are easily washed out of the soil, as a result of which their concentration changes during the growing season. This must be taken into account and, accordingly, nitrogen should be introduced with the beginning of growth, but moderately.
By the middle and end of the growing season, the importance of nitrogen seems to recede into the background, giving way to the increasing role of potassium and phosphorus. Only those growing in nature in places of at least a slight accumulation of humus have an increased need for nitrogen.
Phosphorus
taken up by plants in the form of phosphates. It is necessary for obtaining healthy plants, the formation of flowers, fruits and seeds, and contributes to the formation of adventitious roots in cuttings.
Potassium
provides strength to plant tissues and affects resistance to disease and drought. Potassium and phosphoric acid have great value for the normal development of plants. Their role in plant nutrition is more important than nitrogen.
Calcium
to regulate soil structure and nutrition. But its content in the soil should not exceed a certain level: excess calcium alkalizes the soil, binds iron compounds and makes them inaccessible to the plant, thereby causing chlorosis in them. Calcium increases the acidity of the soil (pH). Most cacti suffer from a high pH (their roots die, the plants wither, sometimes the spines seem to split from an excess of calcium). In case of calcium deficiency, gypsum is recommended to be added to the soil.
Magnesium
contained in the green chlorophyll grains of the plant and favors the absorption of phosphorus by them.
Iron
participates in the formation of chlorophyll and plays a significant role in all other life processes. Iron deficiency leads to chlorosis, but it is only needed in small amounts.
Sulfur
It is perceived in the form of sulfates and is found in this form in many top dressings, for example, in superphosphate, which is used as a phosphorus fertilizer and to soften (acidify) irrigation water. Many cacti grow in sulfate-rich soil (gypsum).
Trace elements are needed in extremely small doses, and usually the amount that is available in the soil is sufficient.
sodium and chlorine
have importance for plants living on sea coasts or salt marshes. Numerous cacti living in these conditions, as a rule, still do not show special requirements for the salinity of the substrate under culture conditions.
How and when to feed?
Liquid top dressing is used, guided by the following rules:
- Fertilize only during growth.
- Use only those preparations that, in composition and effect, correspond to the characteristics of certain plants.
- Fertilize only healthy plants. Sick specimens are best transplanted into a nutrient-poor substrate, which will promote the formation of new roots.
- Remember that different kinds cacti show different nutrient requirements: some need higher concentrations, others weak.
- To avoid burning the roots, water the soil well before fertilizing.
- Use nutrient solutions strictly in the prescribed concentration. It ranges between 0.5-2%, i.e. 0.5-2 g/l of water. It is preferable to use weaker concentrations, but more often.
- Never feed during the hot afternoon hours! Cloudy days are more favorable, not too cold and damp. If top dressing is applied when watering from below, then this can be done at any time of the day. Not every amateur is interested in the rapid growth of his pets, he would rather prefer to collect a large number of medium-sized specimens in the limited area that he has. Therefore, it will be very moderate in watering and fertilizing. For the most part, cacti are demanding plants: during the growth period, with favorable climatic conditions they should be fed every 8-10 days. By the end of the growing season, the intervals between top dressings increase. Epiphytic cacti must at times receive top dressing of a slightly different composition (with great content nitrogen) than highly succulent species.
- After transplanting, start top dressing only when the newly formed roots penetrate the substrate sufficiently. The strong development of the roots is, as it were, a consequence of the search for food. And only when the roots develop well, the plant will be able to assimilate top dressing and use them for further growth.
Substrates for growing cacti
serves as its habitat. It is in it, from it it receives water and nutrients. This goal can be met by any substrate that has certain physical properties. The best example is the widespread last years hydroponics - growing plants without soil on nutrient solutions.
For the most part, cacti are inhabitants of humus-poor or generally devoid of its mineral weathered soils, which are distinguished by a high neutral so that they do not pass through it. chemical reactions that are harmful to the plant. If necessary, the pH value of pumice, volcanic slag or broken brick can be reduced in the simplest way - using phosphorus fertilizer (superphosphate) or by watering with the addition of a few drops of a suitable acid.
The substrates used have a granular structure - in the form of lumps or grains 2-16 mm in diameter. Silty clay particles must be removed by washing through a sieve. The coarse-grained structure guarantees optimal air permeability, which is necessary for the development and normal functioning of the roots - for all plants in general and in particular for cacti. Indeed, in natural habitats, they also grow on well-permeable soils.
Artificial substrates have one important advantage over soil mixtures: dangerous pests roots - cactus root scale and other soil pests develop much worse in them than in the ground, and plants protected from this danger feel much better. But despite this, growing plants in garden soil mixtures is still practiced.
Cultivated land is a mixture of several basic components that are combined to meet all the requirements of plants.
Acidity index
Soil reaction, or soil acidity, is critical for plants. Acidity is determined by the amount of hydrogen ions in the soil solution and is measured by pH values from 1 to 14. In garden practice, they deal with pH values from about 3.5 to 8.5: pH 3.5-4 - strongly acidic soils, pH 4.1 -4.5 - very acidic, pH 4.6-5.3 - acidic, pH 5.4-6.3 - slightly acidic, pH 6.4-7.3 - neutral, pH 7.4-8 - slightly alkaline, pH 8.1-8.5 - alkaline. A favorable indicator of soil acidity for most cacti lies in the range of pH 5.5-6.9. The lower value (5.5) is vital for species that love humus (for example, epiphytes), as well as for species that live in vivo on acidic mineral soils (for example, rebutia, lobivia and many others). Other species tolerate neutral to slightly alkaline soils.
It has been proven that plant damage is more likely to occur at too high than too low pH. For epiphytes, the upper limit lies somewhere around pH 7.2. , most cereus and many other cacti at elevated pH also begin to wither and die from chlorosis. In Cereus, from the crown down, drying occurs, the roots are destroyed - the plant dies.
Plants that are kept in pick boxes or small pots for a long time - about a year - often start to get sick, despite a good supply of water and nutrients. They become yellowish in color and eventually stop growing. At the same time, the surface of the earth is calcified - covered with a crust of salts, often a plaque of algae appears. If the plant is taken out of the ground and the roots are examined, it turns out that they are very poorly developed. Later they die off, and the plant dies. All this, no doubt, is a consequence of too high a soil pH.
The fact is that evaporating irrigation water eventually leaves a strong coating of lime and salts on the surface of the earth and on the walls of the pot. This leads to the fact that the ground is covered with a crust, as well as a strong development of algae. Alkalinization gradually captures deeper layers of soil in a pot. Because the poisoning of the substrate is from top to bottom, young specimens with prostrate root systems suffer earlier than large specimens.
Plant damage manifests itself in different ways. First of all, the crust and algae on the surface of the earth impede the penetration of air into the soil, and the roots cease to receive the oxygen necessary for the assimilation of nutrients. In addition, excess calcium binds iron, which plays an important role in the formation of chlorophyll. This leads to chlorosis, which is expressed in the yellowing of plants. Often in everyday life called "souring" of the soil is actually nothing more than alkalization.
The situations described above must be corrected. From time to time it is necessary to determine the pH of the soil and irrigation water and adjust it. Where alkalization has occurred, acidified water (pH 4-5) should be used for irrigation until a favorable indicator is reached. In case of damage to plants that have already occurred, they should be immediately transplanted into a suitable substrate. Instances with damaged roots are transplanted into a nutrient-poor substrate in order to initially cause increased root formation. Where calcium is needed, it is better to add it not in the carbonate form (like calcium carbonate), but in the sulfate form (calcium sulfate, or gypsum).
For professional gardeners and amateurs, various, fairly simple devices have been developed for determining pH, as well as for determining the main nutrient salts contained in the soil. There are also electrical devices for this purpose. The risk of plant damage due to high salt content can be a serious cause of plant depression.
There are no generally accepted recipes for which land to take. In any case, any mixture for cacti should be water- and breathable and not contain a lot of humus. As a rule, young plants receive a light, nutrient-poor substrate. A special mixture is prepared for sowing. Some species require a high content of humus, others - clay or other mineral substrate. Epiphytic cacti are an exception here too: for them, who love humus, mineral materials are generally unsuitable. But they are very good for hydroponics.
Dishes for cacti
Currently, for lovers of cacti, there is a wide selection of different dishes from a variety of materials. Modern artificial materials have almost completely replaced the previously used wooden boxes, and often clay or eternite vessels. Now, as a rule, pots or bowls made of hard plastic or styrofoam are used for crops.
For small amateur collections, special plastic containers (mini-greenhouses) have been developed, consisting of a lower shockproof part and a transparent cap on top. Further development and improvement is a miniature greenhouse consisting of three parts.
To ensure the required soil temperature for plants, they find a place on a warm windowsill or, more reliably, use a special electric thermostatic heating cable that can be laid under the windowsill. Most often, pots, bowls and other utensils made of shockproof polystyrene or polyethylene are used. For space-saving purposes, quadrangular pots are especially convenient.
Are the pots clay or plastic?
The good old clay pots are still widely used today, in the age of plastics, despite their higher price. For a long time they were considered the most suitable utensils for cacti. Their walls are permeable to water, air, and the roots receive enough oxygen they need, and the danger of waterlogging the soil is negligible.
In humid, warm greenhouse climates and wherever the pots can be immersed in a uniformly moist and long-lasting substrate, such as peat, of course, clay pots should be preferred. Yes, and damp-sensitive plants are often cultivated in horticulture in clay pots. But since clay pots with cacti are often arranged just like that, without immersion in the substrate, you should pay attention to some facts.
Clay pots evaporate some of the water through the porous walls. Water loss requires more frequent watering, which can lead to alkalization of the soil if the wrong hard water is applied. Since the evaporating water rushes to the walls, then the nutrient salts are at the walls or on them, and often even crystallize on the outside of the pot. Following them, roots rush, which braid the inner surface of the pot with a dense network of thin roots. This is where the danger arises: any violation of external conditions, whether it be a decrease in temperature or excessive heat, strong sunlight and drying out of the walls - all this can quickly lead to the death of these delicate thin roots. In addition, during transplantation, these main absorbent roots are damaged or destroyed.
During growth, plants need uniform soil moisture. Just during this period, which we have in the summer months, many plants in pots suffer from overdrying, and in small pots more than in large ones. This causes growth to stop. Clay pots are recommended to be used only where their porosity benefits plants.
For example, they can be recommended for growing water-sensitive, small-sized succulents that prefer little indirect moisture. In this case, the pots must be constantly immersed in the substrate - peat, sand, a mixture of peat and sand, crushed pumice, volcanic slag, etc. Watering in this case is not done in pots, but in the substrate between them. Traditional pots are also preferable when the plants in them are combined into a picturesque group, for example in open field or on the windowsill in a box, etc. So that the appearance of the pots does not spoil the compositions, they are immersed in a substrate where the earth lump will not suffer from drying out or waterlogging. Of course, in all cases, you need to take care of good drainage. There are many benefits to using plastic pots, particularly for cacti and other succulents that love sunny locations and dry air.
The main advantages of plastic pots:
- No evaporation through the walls and as a result - less water consumption.
- The best development of the roots is evenly throughout the earthy coma.
- Less watering means lower costs work force, saving water, eliminating the risk of lime or salt accumulation.
- Less weight of pots, ease of movement of plants.
When using quadrangular pots, optimal use of the area. Watering plants in plastic pots should be more careful, as in this case it is easy to pour more water than necessary. If the collection contains plants in both clay and plastic pots, they should be placed separately. As a rule, plants in plastic pots consume about 1/3 of the water that plants in earthenware need. Therefore, when watering, you need to develop a certain habit. Every serious amateur does this without much difficulty. For epiphytic cacti and ampelous plants, so-called orchid baskets of various sizes are suitable.
hydroculture
For several years now, hydroculture has been the favored and preferred method of keeping cacti in a simplified manner in residential and office buildings, in front rooms and lobbies, shops, etc. With this method, there are almost no problems associated with the risk of improper watering, top dressing, transplanting, which often arise in ordinary, land culture.
However, the well-being of cacti here also depends on factors such as light, air and heat. And with hydroculture, plants must be protected from drafts. To avoid hypothermia, the temperature in the room should be at least 18 ° C, slightly lower at night. Only during the winter dry period for certain types admissible low temperatures. Hydroculture is recommended for ornamental-leaved and beautifully flowering plants, orchids, cacti and some other succulents that live indoors for a long time.
Hydroculture is understood as the maintenance of plants without soil in a sterile mineral substrate in nutrient solutions of low concentration. This method is based on the position that the plant lives and develops not at the expense of the land in which it is located, but at the expense of nutrients dissolved in the soil, which the roots absorb along with water.
The supply of water and nutrients is very simple in hydroculture. Modern long-acting preparations can supply plants with all the substances necessary for growth for 6 months. The preferred dosage of nutrients for plants is self-regulating due to ion exchange between the nutrient solution, on the one hand, and root secretions (hydrogen, carbon dioxide), on the other. The danger of overfeeding is excluded here. In addition, tap water containing chlorine and lime is neutralized and becomes harmless to plants. You just need to drink enough hard water.
In Germany, the long-acting drug Levatit (Lewatit HD 5) is used, which is replaced every six months; the rest of the time, you only need to add water to make up for its consumption as a result of consumption by the plant and evaporation from the surface of the vessel. For the most part, the water supply is enough for many weeks, so you can safely leave the break, leaving the plants unattended. Thanks to a special pointer in the vessel, you can always easily determine the water level.
Once a year, the water should be completely changed to avoid the accumulation of root exudates, which can inhibit growth. In cacti, draining the used nutrient solution can cause the plants to go dormant.
When using a complete fertilizer without ion exchange, the nutrient solution must be completely renewed after 4-8 weeks even when using soft water. Otherwise, there is a danger of an overabundance of salts harmful to plants in the hydro-vessel.
Substrates for hydroponics
As a filler for hydroponic vessels, clay granules "bleton" or "lakaton", as well as expanded clay used in construction, have proven themselves best. It is a porous and therefore light material, free from dust, durable and very attractive due to its light brown color. For our purposes, a bleton of 5-20 mm in diameter is used. In the absence of bleton, crushed pumice, broken brick, basalt sand or other mineral substrate can be used. Before use, the material must be cleaned by washing from impurities of fine silty particles.
Hydrovessels
Special vessels for hydroculture are made in many models from various artificial substances and ceramics. There are vessels of different sizes for individual plants and large containers for decorative compositions. Large vessels are often equipped with a plant holder (in the form of a stick), which is attached to a special plate at the bottom of the container. Hydroponic pots consist of an outer vessel and an inner slatted or multi-hole liner.
Each vessel, regardless of its size, has a solution level indicator. For the most part, this is a viewing window with a scale.
Preparing Cacus for Hydroculture
It is preferable to cultivate plants on an artificial substrate from the very beginning of their existence. Seedlings or cuttings develop well on crushed pumice, perlite, a mixture of hygromul and styromul. Sowing is best done in flat vessels filled with crushed fine-grained well-washed pumice.
But it is possible to transfer from the ground to hydroculture and larger specimens that have not yet grown to the end. This is best done during the growth period. A very important event for this is the preparation of the roots. They are thoroughly washed in warm water from all particles of the earth. If the water no longer becomes cloudy during washing, then the roots are thoroughly cleaned. Damaged roots are removed with a sharp knife.
Attention: if even the smallest particles of humus get into the substrate, they can become a source of disease!
Planting cacti in water vessels
Planting is carried out in the same way as with a culture in the soil, that is, the roots must be evenly distributed in the substrate and sent to the depth of the pot or box, trying not to break them.
The pot is carefully filled with clay granulate or other substrate. The plant itself should not be too deeply immersed in the substrate so that the root neck is on the surface. If the plants are large, use the stick (holder) provided in the container. When growing plants in small trellis pots or special containers, they can eventually be transplanted into a larger container right along with the inner pot. After all, the roots often grow through holes in the walls, and they are easily damaged during transplantation. If the drug Levatite HD5 is used for plant nutrition, then it can be immediately applied to an external vessel during planting. Its amount depends on the surface of the substrate. For 1 m you need to take 500-600 cm With a vessel size of 0.5 x 0.5 m, 125-150 cm3 is enough
In case water. has a particularly high content of lime and chlorine, it is recommended to increase the dose of the drug to 50%, since it is able to neutralize impurities harmful to plants in the water. If other anhydrous complete nutrient mixtures are used, they are applied only 1-2 weeks after transplanting into water. Water is used lukewarm tap water. The required amount will indicate the level indicator. Too high a water level in the container is harmful: the base of the stem should never be in water.
Which cacti are suitable for hydroculture?
Epiphytic genera of cacti are particularly suitable for this purpose. They tolerate a uniform supply of water and nutrients well. In addition, the risk of damage to the coma from drying out is excluded.
Highly succulent cacti such as spherical and columnar cacti also feel good. Along with an adequate supply of water and nutrients, plants need to provide all other growth factors - light, heat and air - in sufficient quantities. Often it is necessary to resort to artificial illumination of plants.
An important dormant period for all cacti is achieved by reducing the level of nutrient solution to a minimum (up to several centimeters) or by completely removing it. At the same time, the temperature is lowered. The dormant period begins, as with a normal culture in the ground, for most cacti at the end of October and continues until mid-March. For epiphytic cacti, a number of other conditions are needed, which will be discussed below.
There are many stories about cacti that are as well known as the tale of Cinderella. No one remembers who and when first told this story, it is simply known to all people. Also, “everyone knows the truths” about cacti, which will be discussed, “everyone knows”. But not all of them are actually true. Many of these truths are only half true, and some are completely wrong. Let's try to understand them.
"Cactus and succulent are synonyms." Not true.
Every cactus is a succulent, but not every succulent is a cactus. Some of the succulents belong to the botanical families Liliaceae, Crassulia, Euphorbia, etc.
"Cacti grow well only in the sun." Truth.
In low-solar rooms, you can achieve flowering and growth of a cactus with a lot of effort and tricks. But their full development occurs only with large amounts of light and sun. Only some unprotected species need shelter, but they also need light. People who put their plants deep into rooms, on shelves and cabinets next to various figurines, slowly kill them.
"Cacti, like plants in hot countries, need warmth all year round." Not true.
For normal growth and flowering, cacti need a rest period. This can be achieved by keeping it cold and dry in a sunless winter time. Only moisture-loving cacti that grow in tropical forests.
"The more you look at cacti, the better they grow." Truth.
With a more frequent examination of your plants, you will be able to timely notice the impending disaster in the form of a wound, loss of roots, tick attacks, etc., and prevent it in time.
"Cacti are desert dwellers, they are afraid of water." Not true.
Not every cactus is dry-loving. But even the most dry-loving cactus during the growth period must be given enough water. They need water for nutrition and for cooling the stem by evaporation.
"The less you touch the cacti, the better." Truth.
With constant transfers and rotations, cacti lose their spines and do not bloom. This problem is most often seen in novice collectors due to the constant "dragging".
"The less often you repot cacti, the better they grow." Not true.
A properly done transplant stimulates the growth of the stem and roots. Cacti need to be repotted every year!
"Cacti don't like changing conditions." Truth.
Do not get carried away looking for non-existent "secrets". Constant changes in regime, soil, arrangements, etc. lead to deterioration or even death of the entire collection.
"In order for a cactus to bloom, it must be abundantly fertilized." Not true.
Cacti need to be fertilized, but their fertilizer needs are much less than those of leafy plants. A starving or overfed cactus will never bloom. From underfeeding, the cactus will not die, but overfeeding can be fatal for them, because they are not adapted to it according to their physiological characteristics.
"A fast-growing cactus dies easily." Truth.
Rapid growth, especially artificially induced (with growth aids), gives loose stems, poor resistance to pests and infections, and poor hairiness. Give your cactus everything it needs and let it grow at its natural rate, then you will have a normal, healthy plant.
"A cactus blooms once in a lifetime, after which it dies." Not true.
A healthy cactus blooms every summer without any harm to itself. Exhaustion is possible only in cases where the cactus sets too many fruits. In such cases, it is better to remove some of the berries immediately after they are tied.
"A cactus that does not start growing in summer often dies in winter." Truth.
A cactus that doesn't grow is half dead. There are, of course, exceptions that can live in such a half-dead state for several years. If you do not want to lose a non-growing cactus, then be sure to find out the reason why it stopped growing (usually this is the loss of roots) and take action. For all this, you need not be afraid of your cactus, feel free to pick them up, wash, replant and treat. A collector who is afraid of pricking himself every time will never succeed.
If you learn to love and understand cacti, they will tell you a lot more about themselves than what is told here.
Cacti are one of the most popular and beloved window houseplants. They are unusual and even mysterious. Their shapes and colors are very original. If they are provided with the appropriate conditions, then the cacti will also bloom magnificently. We are sure that in every home there is a place for these living creatures.
How to transplant cacti. It is not necessary to plant each cactus in its own flower pot; you can combine several types in one wide pot. But remember that all these varieties should be similar to each other in one thing: they require the same conditions and care.
For example, you can't plant leafy cacti such as zagocactus and thorny desert cacti together because they need different amounts of water. Also, fast growing cacti like Echinocereus will grow much faster than other varieties planted side by side. Compositions of cacti various forms and the varieties look just wonderful. Spherical cacti are placed in the foreground, column-shaped cacti in the middle. Pebbles and shells accentuate the “desert look.” Spiny cacti can only be picked up with kitchen tongs, or they can be wrapped with a piece of paper or leather. You can also wear leather gloves. In order to plant cacti, you must get soil that is deficient in nutrients, which will allow water to easily pass down; for this purpose, you can add sand or foam to the ground. But it is better, of course, to use a ready-made mixture for planting cacti.
Grafting a cactus. Grafting a cactus is the artificial splicing of a part of a stem with a rooted part of another plant. Grafting is done if it is necessary to propagate cacti that cannot grow from their own roots. Late blooming cacti also need to be grafted as this speeds up their flowering. Young plants take root very easily. Mature cacti can only be grafted if they have begun to rot. It is better to plant cacti in late May or early June, in the morning or in the evening, in gloomy weather.
Cut off the top of the plant horizontally with a blade at a distance of 8-10 cm from the base. Grab the top of the stem or sprout with a folded piece of paper. Attach the workpiece so that the sections of the adult plant and the grafted sprout coincide (they must have the same diameter). Then pull the cut with an elastic cloth. After a few weeks, the tissues of both plants will fuse.
Flowering cactus. Approximately half of all cacti begin to bloom at the age of three to four years. Cacti will bloom every year and although most cacti bloom in the spring, you may be able to assemble a collection that will please you. bright colors all year round. The secret lies in the flowers that appear only on young sprouts; thus, you must provide the necessary care in the summer and "neglect" the plants to a certain extent in the winter. Planting cacti in small flower pots encourages them to bloom.
Caring for desert cacti. In winter, the temperature should be maintained at +15 to +18 degrees, but it can be slightly lowered. Cacti grown on window sills in cool rooms should be placed in warmer rooms during a cold night. Fluffy cacti do not withstand winter temperatures below +15 degrees.
Desert cacti love light and require plenty of it, especially in winter. During hot seasons, greenhouse-grown cacti may "demand" shade.
In the spring, watering should be increased; from late spring to late summer, watering becomes less, and the water should be warmer. From the end of summer, watering should be made even less frequent, and from mid-autumn, cacti are irrigated very rarely.
In summer, in no case should you sprinkle desert cacti. They require a lot of fresh air, so keep your windows open on hot days.
Cacti should be repotted annually in the spring. Every new flower pot should only be slightly larger than the previous one.
Most desert cacti have transplantable tissues that are easily "implanted" in spring or summer. Before transplantation, the tissues are dried for several days. The spread of seeds is possible at a temperature of 17 - 25 degrees.
Forest cacti. In its natural environment- in tropical forests, these cacti grow on trees or among trees, so it is not surprising that their form and care conditions are different from the prickly desert cacti.
The only exception is the whip-shaped Aporocactus (Aporocactus flagelliformis), which grows on trees in its homeland - in Mexico, but looks like desert cacti. It is convenient to plant typical forest cacti in hanging baskets. Some types of cacti, such as ripalis, are grown for the beauty of their stems, although main feature forest cacti - their magnificent flowers.
In order for cacti to bloom every year, you must follow a few rules. You will need to provide the cacti with a cool and dry environment during their "rest" period; do not move the flower pot after the ovaries have appeared; and try to keep the cacti outdoors longer during the summer months. The most beautiful cacti are Epiphyllum cacti with fragrant flowers the size of a small pot. But, unfortunately, it is very difficult to make a forest cactus bloom.
Epiphyllum should be grown on east windows. After a period of "rest" or "hibernation", when the ovaries are formed, watering should be increased. During the flowering and growth period, watering should be carried out in a normal mode, the same goes for other houseplants: increase watering when the soil becomes dry. If the tap water is too hard, you can use rainwater.
You should also spray the plant more often. Epiphyllum is an exception in this case: a small flower pot stimulates flowering, so it does not require annual replanting. Most woodland cacti have special transplant tissues that are easily grafted onto other plants. Of course, it is better to graft in the summer, cutting off the top of the stem. Before planting, the transplanted tissues are dried for several days.
Zygocactus "Decembrist"
Its branched arcuate sprouts consist of flat segments in the form of a leaf 4-5 cm; plants are usually bought with germs (ovaries). This species has many varieties. This cactus variety blooms from mid-November to late January; flowers are white, pink, red or purple. Freshly purchased plants bloom just wonderfully, but if care is not taken, the plant will soon stop blooming. These cacti during the rest period gain "strength" to bloom again; therefore, watering should be limited, the temperature should be lowered and fresh air should be allowed into the room.
Problems with cacti. The drooping end of the stem, rot spots? The reason is dry soil, especially in winter. Bad growth? The reason is insufficient watering in summer or excessive winter irrigation. Bronze spots on the skin? - Arachnoid disease. If a cork has formed on the surface of the stem, then this may be the influence of pests, a wound or hypothermia. The reason, most likely, lies in poor summer watering. Brown spots - rotting stems; this kind of problem rarely appears on well-maintained cacti.
But if this happens, then cut off the affected part, disinfect the soil with a liquid solution of carbendazim. In addition, care should become more intense during the disease period of the plant.
Growing cacti
There is an opinion that growing a cactus does not present any difficulties and it will be better if these plants are not cared for at all, but this is not so. Cacti are peculiar plants. They grow beautifully among the sands in the deserts. Cacti in the stems have adapted to store moisture during the rains and spend it in the heat.
Cacti, with a few exceptions, do not have leaves, their function is performed by a green thickened stem, which has the most different shape. The stems of cacti are ribbed, smooth, tuberculate, wrinkled with notches or papillae; outside they are covered with a hard cuticle with a wax coating. In cacti, the leaves are modified into spines, hairs and bristles and of various colors and shapes; they grow from felt-pubescent pads.
Cacti grow, they can be in the form of small dwarfs or large columns that bloom, giving beautiful flowers, different in shape, color and size. The flowers of cacti are funnel-shaped, bisexual, tubular, more sessile. Few cacti bloom only at night. Flowers are very fragrant. With the exact selection of the collection and proper care in room conditions, you can achieve constant flowering of cacti.
Varieties of cacti
Cacti are divided into two groups:
forest cacti that are native to tropical forests
desert cacti that grow in the hot semi-desert.
Forest cacti can be grown on the north and east and windows, and in summer they need to be shaded from direct sunlight. In winter, watering should be limited.
Desert cacti thrive on a straight line. sunshine. They can be grown on southern windows and in winter period hardly water.
indoor cacti
In room conditions, dwarf cacti are grown, which take up very little space. They can be grown on the same windowsill for several decades.
Cacti, like many other indoor plants, need a dormant period that occurs in winter. Therefore, the main task when caring for cacti is to prevent growth in winter, because during the winter they stretch and lose their usual appearance. In winter, cacti can be grown on windowsills. In order not to cool the roots, the pots must be placed on a stand.
In the brightest places, leaf-like cacti need, but other cacti also like bright light. In winter, it is best to keep the temperature around 15-18 degrees. The desert cactus can withstand temperatures as low as 5 degrees. and it can be kept in unheated rooms in winter.
During the dormant period, in winter, watering is done once every 7-10 days. It is better to take water warm, a few degrees higher than the air temperature. When watering a cactus, you need to make sure that water does not fall on the cactus stem, especially in winter. Water penetrating into inconspicuous cracks on the stem leads to rotting of the plant.
With the onset of spring, cacti should be watered more often, and sprayed several times a month. In summer, cacti must be protected from direct sunburn. To prevent overheating of the pots, it is better to put them in boxes filled with earth or peat. You can take boxes with cacti to the balcony. Large specimens will be more useful to plant in the ground in the garden. In mid-August, they need to be transplanted into pots again so that they have time to take root before winter.
Watering the cactus depends on the size of the pot, the time of year, the age of the plants, and the temperature of the room. During the growth of cacti, in spring and summer they need to be watered daily.
Old cacti need to be watered less often because they have large water reserves. Especially in summer, abundant watering is required. Water preferably in the evening. The lower the air temperature, the less you need to water, since cacti evaporate less water. Watering in autumn is gradually reduced, and in winter it is rarely watered at all. If cacti are often watered in winter, they do not master the dormant period, they become exhausted and do not bloom.
It is better to transplant cacti in the spring, when they begin to grow. A couple of days before transplanting, they need to stop watering so that the earth lags behind the roots more easily. The cactus is wrapped in strips with a strap or thick paper, then knocked out of the pot. Rotten and dead roots are cut to living tissue. Sections should be sprinkled with coal powder.
All flowering cacti in early spring require transplanting immediately after flowering. After transplanting, they are not watered for several days.
Reproduction of cacti
Cacti are propagated by seeds, stem cuttings. Cacti can be propagated by grafting.
cactus seeds
The seeds of some cacti germinate already on the 5-7th day, while others germinate only after a month. Sowing is best in April and May. The bowl with seeds must be put on heating. The temperature should be maintained around 25-30 degrees. You can use indoor greenhouses and greenhouses.
Cuttings of cacti
Cuttings of cacti are necessary in spring and early summer. Cuttings are apical and lateral shoots, in leaf cacti - leaves.
Grafting cacti
Grafting of cacti is done for abundant flowering and growth acceleration, for better growth those cacti that have a weak root system, when the lower part of the plant and roots rot. Vaccinations are given in warm time of the year.
Diseases of cacti
Cacti suffer most often from waterlogging of the soil, especially in winter. At the same time, cacti are affected different kind rot. For treatment, it is necessary to get the plant out of the pot, rinse the roots under running water, dry, cut off all soft and darkened roots, all leaves and stems with traces of rot, treat the roots with an antiseptic, plant the cactus in a new pot, do not water until it starts growing . Keep it in a bright place. Also, cacti can be damaged by pests: spider mites, mealybug, shield aphid.
