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Frequent use of a drill, both professional and domestic, entails the wear of some of its parts. In particular, chuck wear is observed, resulting in problems such as loss of drills, bits, whisks during operation. As a result, it is necessary to periodically tighten the tightening of the cartridge so as not to be injured during the working process. You can correct the current situation by removing and replacing the cartridge, but we will learn how to do this from this material.
- How to remove a cartridge from a hammer drill
- Replacing the chuck on a screwdriver
All drills, screwdrivers and hammers are equipped with cartridges for fixing working parts, the principle of operation of which is based on a cam mechanism. Bits, drills and other auxiliary devices are fixed in the chuck by clamping them between three, and sometimes four, connecting cams. The cams are a cone-shaped structure that moves only in the longitudinal direction when the adjusting special sleeve is turned. There are two types of cartridges:
Key;
Quick release or manual.
Key cartridges fix the working tool by using a special key, but on keyless drills enough manual effort to secure the working nozzles. Depending on the quality of the production of the drill, as well as the frequency of its use, the service life of the chuck depends. Cams wear out, so the chuck is not able to fix the working nozzles. The cams cannot be repaired, so the need to remove the chuck is to replace the worn part and thereby reanimate the drill.
Key chuck for drill with a special key
The cartridge is infrequently removed from the tool when a drill or bit is jammed in it. Turning the chuck relative to the tool shaft is also a negative consequence, which can be eliminated only if the chuck is unscrewed and replaced with a new one. Both keyless chucks, in which the jaws have a shorter service life, and key chucks, which differ from the first by the maximum tightening force of the working nozzles, are subject to replacement. Impact drills are equipped only with key drums, since fixing the working tool on them is much more reliable.
Keyless chuck for drill
What tool is required
To carry out work on dismantling the cartridge, replacing it, as well as to remove a jammed drill, you will need to make sure that you have the following necessary tools:
1) Vice and pliers.
2) Hammer and mallet.
3) Wrench and pipe wrenches.
4) Phillips screwdriver.
As you can see, every man has such tools in the garage, so you can remove and replace the cartridge with drills with your own hands.
Removing a drill from a jammed chuck + (Video)
If you are faced with the problem of jamming the drill, then not in all cases it is necessary to remove the cartridge to remove it. When the drill is jammed in the chuck, it can be removed by using a vise.
The drill must be clamped in a vice in a horizontal position. The body of the drill also needs to be fixed so that it is stationary. On the surface of the cartridge and the sleeve, you must first knock lightly with a hammer, and then apply strong blows. It is important to strike the sleeve in the direction of the tangent plane. Hammering continues until the drill is released from engagement with the chuck.
If using a hammer it is not possible to release the drill and unwind the cams, then you can use a gas wrench. The body of the drill and the jammed drill are fixed in a vice, and the chuck is rotated clockwise with a gas or pipe wrench. You can also use two pipe wrenches by clamping the drill shaft with one tool, and trying to rotate the clamping element with the second.
Mounts: what they are + (Video)
The clamping mechanism is attached to the drill shaft using the following methods:
Threaded connection;
cone connection.
In the design of a threaded connection, an additional locking screw is often used, shown in the photo below. With its help, the reliability of fixing the cartridge is ensured.
Chuck, key and lock screw for threaded connection
The threaded connection is provided by identical threads on the tool shaft and in the channel of the clamping mechanism. Of considerable importance is the type of thread used in this connection, and they are metric and inch. The thread used on the drill is indicated using a special abbreviation, which has an approximate form:
"1.5-15 M13x1.2"
The abbreviation stands for the following:
If the tool uses an inch thread marking, then the abbreviation is designated UNF. In modern models of drills, an inch type of thread is used, since the choice of clamping mechanisms with an inch thread is much more extensive.
Shaft for secure fastening of the clamping mechanism is equipped with a locking screw, which has a left-hand thread. Therefore, unscrewing the screw to remove the cartridge is carried out in a clockwise direction.
A less common way is to mount the chuck with a clamping mechanism based on the use of a Morse taper. AT this case the shaft is a cone shape, and the clamping mechanism is equipped with a similar shape in the inner channel. The fastening of the mechanism occurs under the influence of the power planting of the device on the structure of the shaft of the electric motor of the tool. Such mechanisms are marked with the following abbreviations: B10, B12, B18, etc.
Key chuck for drill with cone connection (marking)
The letter designation indicates the marking of the cone, and the digital one is the diameter of the tail of the tool. The conical connection has the following form, shown in the photo below.
Cone connectors for chucks
The conical fastening method is more reliable, since it can withstand large power loads than the first connection option. In addition, it is easy to use: it is easy to remove and just as easy to put on the shaft.
We find out how to fix the cartridge
In order to find out how to fix the cartridge on the drill, it is necessary to conduct an external examination. Experts determine at a glance this moment, and for inexperienced craftsmen there is a marking by which one can judge the method of fixing the cartridge on the drill. Examples of markings for taper and threaded connections are described above.
We remove the cartridges with their various connections + (Video)
To remove a chuck that is screwed to the tool, proceed as follows:
1) Inside the cartridge there is a screw located in the middle of the device. This screw has a left hand thread.
2) You will need to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw.
3) It is necessary to unscrew it in the direction of the clockwise direction, that is, to the left.
4) After unscrewing the screw, which may not be available on some models of drills, it is necessary to unscrew the unit that serves to fix the working element. Unscrewing is carried out by turning the unit to the right.
Such popular manufacturers of power tools as Interskol and Makita have a similar design for fixing cartridges on drills and screwdrivers. Therefore, all that is needed in order to unwind the cartridge is to determine the type of connection and then use one method or another to remove the cartridge.
Drill "Makita" with keyless chuck and threaded connection
To remove a chuck with a cone connection, there are often no problems at all. The simplest way is the ability to carry out work using a hammer. With its help, the structural element is knocked out of engagement. At the same time, the drill must be fixed in a vice so that the cartridge looks down. After that, blows are applied to the back of the cartridge, thereby dismantling it.
Drill with various cones for securing the chuck
We put on a new cartridge + (Video)
After the cartridge has been dismantled, it must be replaced with a new one. To do this, the following steps are performed:
1) For threaded chuck connection:
A new cartridge is wound onto the screw shaft in a clockwise direction;
The screw is tightened in the direction of rotation counterclockwise.
2) For taper connection:
Fix the drill in a vise;
Push the chuck onto the shaft;
Using a hammer and mallet, install the part in place.
So, to remove the cartridge from any drill, you need to know the procedure and be able to distinguish between the design features of the joints. The only drawback of all these procedures is the need to replace the cartridge with a new one, because worn parts can no longer be repaired.
instrument-blog.ru
How to remove the chuck from a drill for maintenance or repair?
A power tool chuck is actually a consumable item. Replacing it does not happen often, but sooner or later the home master is faced with the question: how to replace it? To understand the process of repairing a drill, let's get acquainted with the types of cartridges and the mechanisms for their fastening.
Drill chucks with in a different way mounts
Cam type
Key
The clamping mechanism is actuated by a bevel gear wrench, hence the name. When turning the outer sleeve, the movable jaws converge to the center with the help of a threaded connection and clamp the drill. The most common type. Perfectly holds the nozzle, allows drilling in any direction of rotation. The disadvantage is that the key must always be at hand.
IMPORTANT! When changing the drill with a wrench, the power tool must be disconnected from the mains.
Threaded (second name - keyless)
The cams are closed due to the pressure of the movable stop located at the base of the mechanism. The chuck body is simply screwed onto a stop connected to the shaft. Easy to use, but has some drawbacks. Low clamping force and one drilling direction.
Quick release
The principle of operation is the same as that of the key. Only the outer sleeve is turned by hand. There are two types.
single sleeve
One hand is enough to change the drill. The shaft is held by friction in the gearbox, or blocked by a special device.
double sleeve
With one hand, it is necessary to hold the lower clutch, while simultaneously rotating the upper one with the other hand. Due to this, the fixation of the drill is more durable.
Such cases can be made of plastic or metal. It all depends on the conditions of use of the drill.
This type of cartridge has a common name - self-tightening. Many craftsmen, using a variable speed drill, simply hold the chuck sleeve with their hand while pressing the start key of the power tool. In this case, the clamping mechanism is fixed as if by itself.
IMPORTANT! Clamping the key cartridge while holding it with your hand is dangerous.
Changing a drill or other nozzle in such chucks is quick, but the clamping force is low. Therefore, to perform work with workpieces made of metal or stone, it is better to use a drill with a key mechanism.
SDS type
Cartridges of this type are rarely used in conventional drills. The main application is perforators.
SDS chuck used in rotary hammers
The principle of operation is ball / collet. For fixing, a special drill is required, which, due to the special shape of the leg, is part of the mechanism.
Replacement of a nozzle is made by one hand. It is enough to pull the clutch towards you, the clamp opens and you can change the drill. The disadvantage is the lack of rigid fixation of the nozzle. There is a longitudinal play.
Replacing a chuck with a drill
Every mechanism breaks at some point. The drill chuck is no exception. Many drill users do not know how to disassemble the assembly that holds the cartridge on the working shaft of the gearbox. In our material you will find not only answers to questions about the mounting device, but also get practical advice dismantling cartridges. In general, repairing a drill with your own hands is quite a feasible task, you just need to know where to start and how to disassemble it.
So, let's consider the mechanisms for attaching the cartridge to the working shaft - there are only two of them. Threaded or conical. It makes no sense to analyze the fundamental advantages and disadvantages of each. Both methods have existed for many years, are used in the manufacture of drills and screwdrivers by a variety of manufacturers, and have proven their reliability. An example of how to replace a damaged cartridge, see this video.
Threaded Chuck Mount
The chuck body is screwed onto the shaft up to the thrust ring. Efforts are not required, since such a device is self-clamping, and during operation the connection is securely fixed. In addition to the main threaded connection with a right-hand thread, a safety screw with a left-hand thread is provided. Two opposite threads reliably protect the mount from spontaneous unwinding.
Marking
In order to be able to replace the cartridge (both due to wear or breakage, and to expand the capabilities of the tool), it is necessary to know the parameters of the threaded connection. Shanks are usually available with metric or inch threads.
Metric (mainly domestic production) is marked as follows: 1.2-15 M10 * 1.25 (1.2-15 is the diameter of the shaft (shank), M10 is the type of thread, 1.25 is the pitch of the threaded connection)
Inch (the most popular marking) has the following form: 2-10mm ½-15UNF (2-10 - shaft (shank) diameter, UNF - thread type, 1.2 - thread diameter in inches, 15 - thread pitch, more precisely - the number of threads per inch).
A similar marking is present on the cartridges. Thus, when purchasing a new product, you will not be mistaken with the compatibility parameters.
Dismantling
- The first action is to deepen the jaws into the chuck body, ensuring their maximum dilution;
- Then you need to unscrew the fixing screw on the bottom of the cartridge, in its very center. IMPORTANT! Do not forget about the left thread, you need to turn it clockwise;
- If the screw does not loosen, it is necessary to knock on its head. Usually it always works
- Put the open-end wrench on the tides (flats) of the shaft, and unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise. If this cannot be done, it is necessary to tap the cartridge case in a circle;
- You can clamp the chuck in a vice with soft jaws, or unscrew it with a gas wrench
- If there were no flats on the shank, you will have to disassemble the body of the drill and carefully fix the shaft of the rotor of the electric motor in a vice;
Metal can be tapped with a hammer, plastic - with a rubber mallet.
The mechanism in this case is unscrewed with the same gas key.
Installation of a new or serviced old cartridge is carried out in reverse order.
The advantages of this method include the reliability of fixation and ease of installation. The disadvantage is that this method does not withstand heavy loads, so this mount is not used in large and powerful tools.
Taper fixation
The most common and popular fastening mechanism is the Morse taper.
This seemingly simple design is actually the product of an accurate calculation of diameters, taper angle and shank length. The mechanism consists of two parts, the chuck shank and the counterpart on the gearbox shaft. At the end there is a flat screw-type lock that prevents scrolling. The hook is self-adjusting.
That is, as the load increases, the friction force increases. When a counter force appears, the cone pair easily breaks up. Due to this property, the cone connection is quite easy to dismantle.
Marking
On the Russian market, cone designations are accepted in accordance with GOST standards. B7 - B45 - this is the size of the cone retainer on the shaft itself and on the chuck. The number indicates the diameter.
Dismantling
Despite the exceptional strength of the connection, the Morse taper is very easy to separate. To do this, you must first tap the cartridge body with light and precise blows in a circle, then knock it off the shaft with one sharp and accurate blow on the back. An offset of a tenth of a millimeter is enough - the cone is easily divided into two parts.
As a bonus, consider an interesting device for a drill - an angle adapter with a chuck.
In some cases, it is difficult to get close to the drilling site. This is especially true when working with finished mechanisms that cannot be disassembled during repair work. In such cases, a corner cartridge may come in handy.
In fact, this is a pair of bevel gears that work without lowering or increasing speed, but simply changing the geometry of the working shaft of the drill. Attaches exactly like a cartridge - with a threaded or conical connection.
obinstrumente.ru
How to change a drill chuck for a drill: remove, install, disassemble from video
What is the function of a chuck in a drill?
The drill chuck is one of the main components of the electric drill mechanism. It serves to transmit rotational motion from the electric motor to the working tool. Its task also includes fixing the drill in such a way that during operation the maximum accuracy of drilling holes is observed, reliable fastening and quick tool change.
In any drill, the tool is fixed in a chuck
Mounting types
Engineers have come up with various design solutions for fixing cartridges. Depending on the method of fastening to a rotating shaft, cartridges are:
- threaded - the cartridge is screwed onto the thread of the shaft;
- conical - a cartridge with a conical shank is inserted into the reciprocal socket, held by friction;
- collet - the cartridge is put on the shaft and fixed with a screw.
Photo gallery: types of tool mounts
The threaded chuck is screwed in clockwise - "right" thread
The cone is used for clamping large diameter drills.
The collet chuck is fixed on the shaft with a screw
Ways to fix the working tool
All chucks clamp the tool between cams (jaws). Three cams evenly approach each other, the tool is fixed strictly along the axis of rotation. According to the method of fixing the drill, the cartridges are divided into:
Video: what is the difference between a quick-clamping method of fastening and a self-clamping
Replacement and repair of the drill chuck
Symptoms
The most common external signs cartridge malfunctions:
- the chuck body flies off the gearbox shaft or the axis of rotation arbitrarily shifts during operation;
- chuck jaws jam or fall out of the body;
- the drill is not clamped in the chuck or removed from it.
In such cases, continuing to work with a drill becomes not only impossible, but also dangerous. It is necessary to find out the cause of the problem and eliminate it.
If for some reason during operation the cartridge has become unusable, it should be replaced or repaired. It is impossible to work with a drill with a broken cartridge.
How to change a part?
The threaded fastening of the chuck to the gearbox shaft is carried out using a thread with a short pitch and additional control fixation with a screw with a reverse (left-handed thread) in the outer end of the shaft.
Since when switching speeds and modes, the cartridge rotates in both directions, a rigid fixation of its working position is provided.
To do this, when assembling the tool, a sealant is additionally applied to all threaded connections, which, when dried, plays the role of an adhesive layer.
This should always be remembered when assembling and disassembling the electric drill. When repairing a cartridge, it is most advisable to use silicone-based sealants - this will allow you to carry out current repairs with the least effort, and also protect the metal from corrosion and oxidation when moisture enters.
In order to disconnect the cartridge from the rotary mechanism, it is necessary:
- Extend the jaws inside the chuck as far as possible to gain access to the control fastening screw.
- Loosen the fastening screw. As a rule, the slots of this screw are cross-shaped. Therefore, a screwdriver of the appropriate configuration must be used. Often during operation, under the influence of centrifugal forces, this screw is tightened in the seat beyond measure. Then you have to apply considerable force to turn it out of the socket.
You can use a mechanical impact screwdriver, but be very careful. In case of damage to the slots on the screw, the removal of the cartridge will become much more difficult and not only the cartridge, but also the gearbox shaft will have to be changed. Among other things, such a “jamming” indicates that no sealant was applied during the previous assembly or it was not given time to dry.
Using counterclockwise rotational movements, unscrew the chuck body from the thread of the working shaft. To do this, it is necessary to keep the shaft from rotating. This can be achieved in several ways:
- Hold the shaft with one hand with an adjustable wrench, unscrew the chuck with the other.
- Remove the gearbox cover and hold the gears from turning by hand.
Video: how to easily remove a drill or screwdriver chuck
In some models, the shaft to which the chuck is attached has special slots for an open-end wrench. In this case, unscrewing the cartridge is greatly facilitated. It is enough to insert the key into this groove and fix it in a fixed position.
If the chuck mount on the drill is conical, then the procedure for disassembly changes as follows:
- Loosen the fixing screw inside the chuck.
- Fix the drill body in a vertical position (for example, with a vice), so that the chuck is at the bottom.
- Using an open end wrench as a spacer, knock the chuck body off its seat with a wooden or rubber mallet.
It is necessary to apply blows with care so as not to damage the cartridge body and its structural elements.
The chuck is mounted on the shaft after repair or replacement in the reverse order. When assembling, it is necessary to pay attention to the degree of rigidity of the fit of the conical recess in the body of the cartridge to the conical end of the leading element, as well as their axial relative position. It is possible to tighten the control screw inside the cartridge only in case of a hard landing and full coincidence of the longitudinal axes.
A silicone-based sealant is used to fix the internal control screw. It is not recommended to start work immediately after assembly. The sealant should dry and fix the screw in desired position. The drying rate of the sealant is usually prescribed on the packaging. Most often, this is approximately 1 mm per day, but since the thread pitch is usually a fraction of a millimeter, it is enough to withstand 10–12 hours until it dries completely.
Silicone sealant is applied to the thread in a thin layer
There are cases when, after repairing and fitting the cartridge onto the tapered spindle of the drive shaft, the cartridge begins to beat and vibrate during operation. This indicates that errors were made during the build. You will have to disassemble the entire assembly again and precipitate the cartridge again. Experienced craftsmen advise in such a situation to heat the cartridge to a temperature of 100-110 degrees. Such heating can be achieved by dipping the body of the cartridge for several minutes in boiling water.
When heated, the metal tends to significantly expand. The taper hole of the chuck will increase and, as it cools, it will fit better on the shaft spindle. In modern household appliances cone cartridges are used less and less. This is due to the fact that they were replaced by more convenient cartridges that are attached to the thread.
Collet chucks also not used in household appliances. The area of their “habitat” is high-precision drilling with thin and ultra-thin tools.
When you go to the store for a new cartridge, take the old part with you. When choosing a cartridge, not only the diameter of the thread is important, but also the direction of its cutting - right or left.
How to disassemble the cartridge?
After disconnecting the cartridge from the rotational shaft, the question of disassembly and repair arises. It should be noted that undertaking such repairs at home is not always justified. You may need special keys and devices that not everyone has. In addition, many manufacturers specifically make their products non-separable. Products made of molded plastic and expanded metal cannot be disassembled and reassembled without changing the properties of the materials. To keep the same dynamic performance is unlikely at all.
Video: keyless chuck repair
If the cartridge is collapsible, these include cam chucks with a key and quick-clamping chucks, then repairs should be started only in compliance with all personal safety measures, in well-lit and equipped rooms. After direct disassembly of the cartridge and diagnosis of the problem, replace the damaged part and assemble everything in the reverse order.
Some craftsmen advise lubricating the internal mechanisms of the cartridge with heavy lubricants (such as Litol or Graphite) during repairs. However, this is absolutely impossible to do, since during operation the dust and chips generated during drilling will stick to the lubricant. Having accumulated on the internal cavities of the mechanism, they will cause damage to the threads and other rubbing parts.
The only exception is the SDS cartridge, in which the lubricant is technologically incorporated, based on its design features.
Common problems and solutions
The chuck vibrates or flies off the spindle axis
The most common problem is related to the unstable position of the cartridge body. If the chuck starts to vibrate during operation or flies off the spindle axis, this means that it needs to be urgently repaired.
First of all, it is necessary to find out the reason for the cartridge jumping off the shaft. Most likely, it will be the development of a mounting screw inside the cartridge. From frequent sharp impacts or lateral loads, the head of this screw may break off. And then the cartridge during operation is easy to unscrew, especially if you hold it with your hand.
The best solution to the problem is to replace the cartridge with a new one, but it is also possible to replace only the control screw. To do this, you need to completely disassemble the cartridge, and then try to drill out the broken bolt and replace it with a new one. It's not always as easy as it seems.
Clamping jaws jam
The second common chuck problem is jamming of the clamping jaws. Most often this happens when drills are inserted into the chuck, the diameter of which exceeds the recommended one. Or when during repair, the working part of the cams is liberally lubricated with grease. Over time, dust and debris that enters the inside of the chuck cements with the lubricant and breaks the thread rims or jams the cams themselves.
This can be corrected by disassembling the cartridge and thoroughly cleaning the cams from accumulated debris. If the thread inside the mechanism is intact, the cartridge can be assembled and operated for another for a long time.
Many experienced craftsmen, when drilling in particularly dusty conditions, protect the chuck from debris by putting half a tennis ball on the drill.
Long life tool depends on its proper use and regular maintenance. If the tool is broken, you cannot work with it. This is especially true for household electric drills with clamping chucks - a drill that has flown out can cause injury. Remove the faulty cartridge and put in a new one is quite within the power of the home master. Cartridges for household appliances are not always repairable, so it is recommended that they be scrapped or contacted by professionals.
postroika.biz
Video selection on how to quickly replace the chuck with a drill with your own hands
In the household, the most popular tool is the electric drill. AT recent times electric drills, called rotary hammers, are especially popular. This tool allows not only to drill a hole, but also to tighten nuts, self-tapping screws, screws using nozzles. The electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot electric drills. The main malfunctions in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.
Mechanical failures
Common mechanical failures include failure of the chuck. And how to remove the cartridge from the screwdriver and replace it? Immediately, we note that replacing a cartridge with an electric drill, screwdriver, puncher is exactly the same. The reason for the release of the chuck is most often the wear of the clamping jaws. This is the most serious malfunction of the electric drill. A complete replacement of the chuck is indispensable. And how to remove the cartridge from the drill will show the video.
By the way! The given method of replacing the cartridge is suitable for any modern models of not only electric drills, but also rotary hammers, screwdrivers, since all the above designs provide for just such a method of mounting the cartridge.
But for Soviet-made drills, the cartridge rests on a Morse cone and is screwed on. And how to remove the cartridge from the cone? To do this, you can use a bearing puller or knock it down with a hammer.
Attention! When purchasing a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and thoroughly lubricate all mating parts and threads.
N8vfY1. The procedure for replacing the cam chuck of an electric drill To disassemble the electric drill, check that its cable is disconnected from the mains. Using a special key, open the jaws of the chuck to the maximum possible position. If you look inside the open chuck, then most often you can see a screw designed to fasten the cam chuck to the motor shaft. As a rule, the screw is unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver.
Remember! The thread of the fixing screw is left-handed, and it is unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise.
Unscrew the screw, insert the L-shaped hex key into the chuck in place of the drill and tighten it.
If a screw has a worn head and you cannot remove it with a screwdriver, do so. Take a second drill, insert a drill with the diameter of the screw head into it and proceed to drill out the screw. It will all end with the fact that when drilling the screw is unscrewed.
Insert an open end wrench onto the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models in which the gap between the chuck and the body is very small. We'll have to pick up the key or file it in thickness. The key is needed to fix the motor shaft. Models of earlier releases do not have turnkey slots on the shaft. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the body of the drill, remove one cover. Clamp the driven gear of the cartridge shaft and the cooling fan at the same time and with a sharp counterclockwise movement try to unscrew the cartridge.
But back to the option with the key. Now, placing the drill on a wooden plane and fixing the shaft with a key, hit the protruding tail of the hex wrench counterclockwise with a wooden or rubber mallet. The chuck is threaded onto the shaft. Turn the chuck counterclockwise to remove it from the power drill.
If you do not have an L-shaped hex wrench, you can use a drill of a suitable diameter, which is inserted into one of the three holes for the clamping key.
Examine the cartridge. If the cams are completely out of order, replace the drill chuck with a new one. Install the new chuck on the drill in reverse order. Remember! When installing a new chuck, be sure to lubricate all friction parts. This is especially true for threaded connections.
We have considered the case when it is necessary to replace the cam chuck. But after all, power tools are also produced with quick-release chucks.
Keyless chucks allow you to change the drill in seconds without using any additional tools or fixtures. Keyless chucks are divided into single-sleeve and double-sleeve. A special mechanism is installed at the design of a single-sleeve chuck, which blocks the shaft at the time of changing the tool. The replacement operation can be performed with one hand. With a double-sleeve chuck, tool change is performed with two hands. The first clutch is held with one hand, the other clutch is twisted with the other hand. But quick-clamping structures do not securely fasten the tool, especially in shock mode. And the use of plastic for their manufacture often leads to breakage of cartridges.
The cam chuck is more reliable, and the parts used in it are made only of metal. To fasten the tool, you must use a special clamping key.
Ways to remove a keyless chuck from a drill or screwdriver
The chuck is threaded onto the axis and secured with a clamping screw. The keyless chuck is removed according to the same algorithm as the cam chuck. First, the locking screw is unscrewed clockwise. If there are turnkey flats on the shaft near the chuck, then putting the key into the grooves, holding any lever in the chuck, try to unscrew the chuck by turning it counterclockwise.
Installing a new cartridge occurs in the reverse order.
But the chuck can be repaired. In order to inspect the details of the chuck, it must be disassembled.
A proven and reliable method for disassembling the chuck of an electric drill is proposed.
Take a regular puncher, remove the boot from it and insert the adapter. The adapter can be made from a failed impact drill. The adapter is a drill shank with a cut off drilling part. Put the cartridge on the adapter shaft and press it with a rubber shock absorber or a wooden board.
Before installing the chuck on the adapter, it is necessary to bring the cams inside the chuck until they are completely immersed.
After assembling the structure, turn on the puncher in impact mode. After 3 ... 5 seconds, the cartridge should figure it out. Immediately you need to mark the cams and places from the location different color. Now you can proceed to the inspection and troubleshooting of the cartridge. If necessary, the cams can be replaced with new ones. True, without additional boring of the cams on lathe not enough.
Other parts can be easily replaced if available.
But there are other mechanical malfunctions. There are cases when the failure of the electric drill is caused by the failure of the gearbox or bad job bearings.
2. The order of work with the gearbox of the electric drill To get to the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble the plastic case of the electric drill. After removing the housing cover, release the chuck shaft and remove it. A driven gear of a larger diameter is mounted on the shaft. A small-diameter spiral drive gear is mounted on the motor shaft. There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, most often leading to the failure of the drill. Everything happens because of its significant wear. Specify the dimensions of the bushing and order the turner. Use bronze as a material, but caprolon is also acceptable. When replacing the bushing in the gearbox, the bearings, their tightness and their packing with grease are necessarily checked. If the gear teeth are worn out, they will have to be replaced. The teeth of the gears wear out when the support sleeve fails. Most often, the driven gear of a larger diameter wears out. Its replacement is simple, you just need to remove the retaining ring and key.
The old gear must be removed from the chuck axis. You can use a puller, or you can just gently knock it down with a hammer, substituting wooden supports.
Electrical malfunctions Now let's try to consider the characteristic malfunctions of the electrical part of the drill.
Most often, the work of an electric drill is interrupted due to wear of the brushes.
1. Replacement of brushes in an electric drill To replace the brushes, it is necessary to remove the side cover of the electric drill body by unscrewing the fixing screws. There must be at least 7 of them. The housing is removed by carefully prying off its edges with a screwdriver. Having opened access to the electric motor, you will see two boxes in which the brushes are installed. In order to get the brushes, you need to release the boxes, bend the holders and take out the worn brush. Do the same with the second brush.
Install new brushes on the vacated places, wipe around the contact area with a clean cloth dipped in white spirit.
2. Repair of the power cord of the electric drill One of the unpleasant malfunctions is the periodic stop of the electric drill during operation. Most often this happens due to an arbitrary power outage. And the thing is that when entering the body of the drill, the supply cable experiences various loads, which lead to a break in the wires.
To fix the problem, you need to remove one of the side covers of the case. Using a tester, check the integrity of the cable. If damage is found at the point where the cable enters the case, but a broken piece is cut off from the cable, a piece of 20 cm of hard vinyl chloride tube is put on the cable and the cable is installed in place with subsequent connection.
To replace the button with the speed controller, it is enough to remove the housing cover, disconnect the wires from the controller. The new regulator is installed in the same place and connected according to the diagram. If there is no diagram, then before removing the old regulator, it is necessary to sketch the connection diagram.
3. Sparking appeared inside the case. The appearance of sparking inside the case most often leads to an interturn short circuit of the armature windings. The second cause of sparking is the contaminated surface of the collector lamellas. Interturn short circuit can only be determined with a special device.
But the dirt from the collector part can be removed independently, using fine sandpaper. After stripping, it is necessary to carefully remove dust from the grooves between the contact plates, called lamellas. The best way to do this is with an old hacksaw blade. At the end of the work, the anchor must be checked with a PYA device.
Here, perhaps, are the main malfunctions of electric drills of any brand.
I wish you success!
A drill is a construction tool that has several functions, depending on the attachments on it. With it, you can drill holes of any diameter in various types of materials, you can screw in or unscrew screws, use it as a mixer for mixing liquid building mixtures. They are angular and standard, network, battery and pneumatic. They are widely used in construction, repair and in everyday life.
An important component of the drill is the chuck - it clamps the drill of the required diameter and provides the correct rotational movements drill. There are types and types and varieties of cartridges, depending on the method of clamping the drill - using a special key (used on powerful tools) and a quick-clamping chuck. There are a huge number of manufacturers of drills.
With frequent use, each electric tool requires periodic maintenance (prevention) and repair, regardless of:
- Manufacturer;
- Power;
- Appointments;
- And a power source.
With such a chuck, the necessary drill can be clamped in a couple of seconds without the use of additional power tools. With the effort of one hand, the head turns, and it is necessary to turn the chuck, and the drill slot will increase, so you can pull out an unnecessary drill and insert a suitable one.
The keyless chuck is convenient to use both in construction and at home.
Then, by turning the chuck, turn the cylinder again, and fix the desired drill for work. With frequent changes of drills, the chuck connector may become unusable, and the drill will scroll, complicating the work process. In this case, the cartridge must be replaced.
Inside the cartridge there is a bolt, with a screwdriver it must be unscrewed. There is a feature here - you need to unscrew it in the opposite direction from the usual direction - to the right. If the bolt is unscrewed tightly, you can try to fill in the liquid key - it is quite possible that rust has appeared inside from time to time. After that, using a jerk, unscrew the cartridge directly. There are options when it is necessary to fix the axis on which the part is mounted.
For this:
- It has special grooves;
- In this case, the axis will have to be fixed with a key;
- And then with a sharp movement unscrew and remove;
- Next, you need to fix the new cartridge.
Before replacing, it is advisable to lubricate the axle so that next time there are no problems. When assembling, there should be no inconvenience. The main thing is not to forget to screw the bolt back in - we remind you that it also twists in an unusual direction - to the left. Now you can continue to use the drill.
It is important to compare drill chucks in the store before buying, as they may differ slightly in thread.
Sometimes there are situations when the breakdown of the drill is not connected with the cartridge connector, but something got into it or jammed. In this case, it is necessary to remove the cartridge (this process is described above), and then disassemble it for cleaning.
Instructions: how to disassemble a cartridge from a drill
Instruments are popular in Russia and countries former Union due to good quality and low price. Russian manufacturer, which produces both a drill mixer and a screwdriver, distinguishes between impact and non-impact drills. The shock is distinguished by the presence of an additional function - shock movement.
Depending on the chosen model, varies:
- Motor power;
- Chuck diameter;
- Rotational speed.
The simplest and effective method parsing looks like this. You need to take a puncher, remove the boot from it, install the adapter and put on it the cartridge, which was previously removed from the drill, press the cartridge against the wall, not forgetting to lay a rubber shock absorber between them.
Be sure to hide the cams in the chuck (the elements involved directly in clamping the parts) inward - screw them in.
Next, we press against the wall and turn on the puncher in impact mode. Everything, the cartridge is disassembled. We clean it of the debris with which it was clogged - it is optimal to lubricate all the insides before assembly. Important point- do not confuse the cams in the chuck, each cam must be in its place.
Stages: how to remove the cartridge from the Interskol drill
Drill Interskol has a number of advantages. It is light and easy to operate, when working at height, it is possible to hang it on a belt, thereby freeing your hands. You can change the number of turns.
First of all, it is in the segment of the most inexpensive in comparison with such competitors as:
- Bosch (Bosch);
- Makita;
- Metabo and others.
There is a function of fixing the engine speed: press the power lever all the way, then press the lock button and release the lever. The speed will be fixed and you can continue to work, at this time you can concentrate not on the pressure of the drill, but on the material you are working with.
There are non-standard options for removing the cartridge from the drill, for example, not all Interskol drills have special grooves in the axis for fixing with a key.
The main thing is not to hit the cartridge with a hammer or other tools when unscrewing it - you can break not only the cartridge, but also damage the axis. So, first of all, it is necessary, as usual, to unscrew the bolt. Next, you can take the gas key, grab the edge of the part to be removed, and either jerk or slowly unscrew the cartridge. In order not to face the problem of the impossibility of removing the cartridge in the future, be sure to lubricate all parts with lithol or other lubricant.
Parsing a drill with a Morse taper
There are drill models that use a chuck not with cams (cam chuck), but with a threaded connection (or Morse taper). For him, you can pick up an adapter, or continue to work with such a cone - it all depends on preferences. In order to repair a drill or screwdriver, it is important to decide which cartridge. Appearance they are similar, so you need to look at the markings that are embossed on the surface of the part. If the cartridge is marked with the letter B, this is a device with a Morse taper. In this case, you can remove the cartridge with a punch and a metal hammer.
It is also important to know about the threaded cartridge that it comes in 2 types: inch (typical for foreign-made models) and metric (produced by Russian manufacturers).
In every Soviet electric drill, screwdriver there is a left-handed clamping drill chuck, sometimes disassembly is needed if the self-clamping conical shaft is jammed, or you need to get the machine nozzle, change the screw, repair or the mount is stuck. Including a drill needs proper use and timely prevention.
With this tool, you can drill:
- Plastic;
- Tile;
- Wood;
- Concrete;
- Metal;
- Brick and other materials.
Most often, in domestic conditions, they use a percussion rotary drill. It includes a cartridge of the SDS system, which was invented by Bosch. Such a system is not characterized by particular accuracy. For more accurate drilling, there are adapters that consist of cam chucks.
How to remove a chuck from a drill (video)
When choosing a drill in a store, please Special attention on the cartridge - it depends on it what nozzles you can use during the operation of the tool. It is also important to remember that with frequent work, a situation will arise when it is necessary to remove the cartridge, and it needs to be cleaned, lubricated with one's own hands and replaced. Therefore, in order to prevent problems with removal in the future, it is advisable to spin the new drill and lubricate all parts with grease.
In the household, the most popular tool is the electric drill. Recently, electric drills, called rotary hammers, have been especially popular.
This tool allows not only to drill a hole, but also to tighten nuts, self-tapping screws, screws using nozzles. The electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot electric drills. The main malfunctions in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.
Mechanical failures
Common mechanical failures include failure of the chuck.
And how to remove the cartridge from the screwdriver and replace it?
Immediately, we note that replacing a cartridge with an electric drill, screwdriver, puncher is exactly the same.
The reason for the release of the chuck is most often the wear of the clamping jaws. This is the most serious malfunction of the electric drill. A complete replacement of the chuck is indispensable. And how to remove the cartridge from the drill will show the video.
By the way! The given method of replacing the cartridge is suitable for any modern models of not only electric drills, but also rotary hammers, screwdrivers, since all the above designs provide for just such a method of mounting the cartridge.
But for Soviet-made drills, the cartridge rests on a Morse cone and is screwed on. And how to remove the cartridge from the cone? To do this, you can use a bearing puller or knock it down with a hammer.
Attention! When purchasing a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and thoroughly lubricate all mating parts and threads.
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1. Procedure for replacing the chuck of an electric drill
To disassemble the electric drill, check that its cable is disconnected from the mains.
Using a special key, open the jaws of the chuck to the maximum possible position.
If you look inside the open chuck, then most often you can see a screw designed to fasten the cam chuck to the motor shaft.
As a rule, the screw is unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver.
Remember! The thread of the fixing screw is left-handed, and it is unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise.
Unscrew the screw, insert the L-shaped hex key into the chuck in place of the drill and tighten it.
If a screw has a worn head and you cannot remove it with a screwdriver, do so.
Take a second drill, insert a drill with the diameter of the screw head into it and proceed to drill out the screw. It will all end with the fact that when drilling the screw is unscrewed.
Insert an open end wrench onto the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models in which the gap between the chuck and the body is very small. We'll have to pick up the key or file it in thickness. The key is needed to fix the motor shaft.
Models of earlier releases do not have turnkey slots on the shaft. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the body of the drill, remove one cover. Clamp the driven gear of the cartridge shaft and the cooling fan at the same time and with a sharp counterclockwise movement try to unscrew the cartridge.
But back to the option with the key.
Now, placing the drill on a wooden plane and fixing the shaft with a key, hit the protruding tail of the hex wrench counterclockwise with a wooden or rubber mallet.
The chuck is threaded onto the shaft.
Turn the chuck counterclockwise to remove it from the power drill.
If you do not have an L-shaped hex wrench, you can use a drill of a suitable diameter, which is inserted into one of the three holes for the clamping key.
Examine the cartridge. If the cams are completely out of order, replace the drill chuck with a new one. Install the new chuck on the drill in reverse order.
Remember! When installing a new chuck, be sure to lubricate all friction parts. This is especially true for threaded connections.
We have considered the case when it is necessary to replace the cam chuck. But after all, power tools are also produced with quick-release chucks.
Keyless chucks allow you to change the drill in seconds without using any additional tools or fixtures.
Keyless chucks are divided into single-sleeve and double-sleeve.
A special mechanism is installed at the design of a single-sleeve chuck, which blocks the shaft at the time of changing the tool. The replacement operation can be performed with one hand.
With a double-sleeve chuck, tool change is performed with two hands. The first clutch is held with one hand, the other clutch is twisted with the other hand.
But quick-clamping structures do not securely fasten the tool, especially in shock mode. And the use of plastic for their manufacture often leads to breakage of cartridges.
The cam chuck is more reliable, and the parts used in it are made only of metal. To fasten the tool, you must use a special clamping key.
Ways to remove a keyless chuck from a drill or screwdriver
The chuck is threaded onto the axis and secured with a clamping screw.
The keyless chuck is removed according to the same algorithm as the cam chuck.
First, the locking screw is unscrewed clockwise. If there are turnkey flats on the shaft near the chuck, then putting the key into the grooves, holding any lever in the chuck, try to unscrew the chuck by turning it counterclockwise.
Installing a new cartridge occurs in the reverse order.
But you can repair the cartridge
In order to inspect the details of the chuck, it must be disassembled.
A proven and reliable method for disassembling the chuck of an electric drill is proposed.
Take a regular puncher, remove the boot from it and insert the adapter. The adapter can be made from a failed impact drill. The adapter is a drill shank with a cut off drilling part.
Put the cartridge on the adapter shaft and press it with a rubber shock absorber or a wooden board.
Before installing the chuck on the adapter, it is necessary to bring the cams inside the chuck until they are completely immersed.
After assembling the structure, turn on the puncher in impact mode. After 3 ... 5 seconds, the cartridge should figure it out.
Immediately it is necessary to mark the cams and places from the location with a different color.
Now you can proceed to the inspection and troubleshooting of the cartridge.
If necessary, the cams can be replaced with new ones. True, one cannot do without additional boring of cams on a lathe.
Other parts can be easily replaced if available.
But there are other mechanical problems.
There are cases when the failure of the electric drill is caused by the failure of the gearbox or poor performance of the bearings.
2. The procedure for working with the gearbox of the electric drill
To get to the gearbox, you need to disassemble the plastic case of the electric drill.
After removing the housing cover, release the chuck shaft and remove it. A driven gear of a larger diameter is mounted on the shaft.
A small-diameter spiral drive gear is mounted on the motor shaft.
There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, most often leading to the failure of the drill. Everything happens because of its significant wear.
Specify the dimensions of the bushing and order the turner. Use bronze as a material, but caprolon is also acceptable.
When replacing the bushing in the gearbox, the bearings, their tightness and their packing with grease are necessarily checked.
If the gear teeth are worn out, they will have to be replaced. The teeth of the gears wear out when the support sleeve fails.
Most often, the driven gear of a larger diameter wears out. Its replacement is simple, you just need to remove the retaining ring and key.
The old gear must be removed from the chuck axis. You can use a puller, or you can just gently knock it down with a hammer, substituting wooden supports.
Electrical faults
Now let's try to consider the characteristic malfunctions of the electrical part of the drill.
Most often, the work of an electric drill is interrupted due to wear of the brushes.
1. Replacement of brushes in an electric drill
To replace the brushes, it is necessary to remove the side cover of the electric drill body by unscrewing the fixing screws. There must be at least 7 of them.
The housing is removed by carefully prying off its edges with a screwdriver.
Having opened access to the electric motor, you will see two boxes in which the brushes are installed.
In order to get the brushes, you need to release the boxes, bend the holders and take out the worn brush. Do the same with the second brush.
Install new brushes on the vacated places, wipe around the contact area with a clean cloth dipped in white spirit.
2. Repair of the power cord of the electric drill
One of the unpleasant malfunctions is the periodic stop of the electric drill during operation. Most often this happens due to an arbitrary power outage. And the thing is that when entering the body of the drill, the supply cable experiences various loads, which lead to a break in the wires.
To fix the problem, you need to remove one of the side covers of the case. Using a tester, check the integrity of the cable.
If damage is found at the point where the cable enters the case, but a broken piece is cut off from the cable, a piece of 20 cm of hard vinyl chloride tube is put on the cable and the cable is installed in place with subsequent connection.
To replace the button with the speed controller, it is enough to remove the housing cover, disconnect the wires from the controller. The new regulator is installed in the same place and connected according to the diagram. If there is no diagram, then before removing the old regulator, it is necessary to sketch the connection diagram.
3. Sparking appeared inside the case
The occurrence of sparking inside the case most often leads to an interturn short circuit of the armature windings.
The second cause of sparking is the contaminated surface of the collector lamellas.
Interturn short circuit can only be determined with a special device.
But the dirt from the collector part can be removed independently, using fine sandpaper. After stripping, it is necessary to carefully remove dust from the grooves between the contact plates, called lamellas. The best way to do this is with an old hacksaw blade. At the end of the work, the anchor must be checked with a PYA device.
Here, perhaps, are the main malfunctions of electric drills of any brand.
What could be easier - replacing the drill chuck! But even here, difficulties may arise for someone who will change the cartridge for the first time ... To avoid elementary mistakes, read our article and you will learn how to replace the cartridge with a drill. The first repair of drills is, of course, the dismantling of the old cartridge, sometimes it is not so easy, especially at home.
What could be easier - replacing the drill chuck! But even here, difficulties may arise for someone who will change the cartridge for the first time ... To avoid elementary mistakes, read our article and you will find out how to change drill chuck.
The first is, of course, the dismantling of the old cartridge, sometimes it is not so easy, especially at home. As a rule, in addition to the fact that the chuck is mounted on a thread on the spindle itself, it is also attached with a bolt with a left-hand thread. Fully open the antennae of the chuck, with which you clamp the drill into the chuck, and look inside the chuck, if there is a bolt, then it is definitely left-handed. So when you turn it out, keep this in mind. This is precisely the first difficulty, not everyone knows that this bolt is with a left-hand thread.
After you have unscrewed the bolt with a left-hand thread, you can unscrew the cartridge itself, but everything is not so simple. Well, if there are cuts for a wrench at the base of the thread, then you can easily fix the spindle and unscrew the cartridge, although you will also have to work hard. But if there are no such turnkey cuts, then this complicates the removal of the cartridge. In this case, you will need to remove the cover of the drill body and fix the spindle inside the drill. This is of course a more complicated method than the first, but still doable even at home!
Well, you removed the cartridge, now you need to pick up a new one. If you think they are all the same, then you are wrong. The simplest types of cartridges:
Key cartridge. This is the one where you clamp the drill with the wrench.
Keyless chuck, or keyless chuck, where clamping occurs more quickly.
difference keyless chuck from the traditional key (or gear-crown) chuck, which is more familiar to us, lies in the fact that when fixing the drill, a special key is not needed. Of course, this form of drill attachment is not without its drawbacks, the main of which is that the key chuck provides more tightening force, and models equipped with a keyless chuck that provide a similar force are very expensive. On the other hand, the keyless chuck provides quite reliable fixation of the drill, which is sufficient for the vast majority of drilling operations.
In addition, such advantages of a keyless clamp as the speed of installing or replacing a drill, replacing a drill chuck is more safe due to the absence of teeth that can injure a slipped hand, and most importantly, less effort must be applied to fix the drill and no need for a special key ( which is so easily lost) help us to make an unambiguous choice of a drill with a keyless chuck. Repair of drills is a very time-consuming and complex process.
Which one to choose? Let's first decide what we will do with this drill. If the change of the drill and or another nozzle occurs quite often, then it makes sense to put a keyless chuck. But if you clamp large diameter drills into your drill, then it is better to replace the drill chuck, because the usual key chuck will last longer.
Well, we decided on the choice of cartridge, and you can run to the store of household appliances and electronics. But most importantly, do not forget that cartridges also have different threads! Therefore, look at the cartridge to see if the manufacturer has stamped the thread indication, remember it or write it down, or even better, take the cartridge with you to the store, the most reliable way! So that there is no repair of drills.
That's all in a nutshell about changing cartridges.
Do-it-yourself drill repair
Let's start with the mechanics:
Drill chucks can be conditionally divided into key and quick-clamping. In the key chuck, the drill is clamped with a key. This form of drill attachment provides a greater tightening force. If you often use large diameter drills, it makes sense to opt for this type of chuck. It suited me better.
Keyless chuck does not require a special key to install and fix the drill. Its obvious advantages include ease of changing the drill and greater safety. If you need to change your drill bit or other bits frequently, a keyless chuck will suit you better.
It should be remembered that drill chucks can have different threads. Therefore, in order not to make a mistake when buying, you need to remember the thread information stamped on the old cartridge.
Dismantle the old cartridge.
It is at this stage that the most big problems. In addition to the fact that the cartridge is attached to the thread with a spindle, it is also attached with a screw rod. Open the jaws of the chuck and see if there is a rod there. Please note that this rod has a left-hand thread. Therefore, it must be turned clockwise. If the bolt is too deep, tap the head of the bolt with a hammer using a punch. Hold the chuck with a special key to prevent it from rotating when the spindle is turned. Also, for the same purposes, you can clamp the cartridge in a vise with copper or plastic "sponges".
After you have unscrewed the bolt, you need to unscrew the old cartridge. If the spindle has slots for a wrench, secure it and remove the chuck. If this fails, you can remove the cover of the drill body and fix the spindle inside the drill. I disassembled the drill completely to show the whole construction.
Get a new cartridge. Slide it onto the spindle and tighten with a chuck wrench.
Screw on the left-hand threaded rod.
Your drill is ready to go! 
Drill electronics defective.
There are only two faults in the energy sector, it is no contact, or there is where it is not needed ...
It is imperative to check the integrity of the cord of the electric drill, as it very often turns out to be damaged in the area of \u200b\u200bthe plug or near the very handle of the drill.
In order to determine a break in the circuit, you can use an ohmmeter or a tester with a sound alert for circuit integrity. We connect to the contacts on the plug, the device does not respond, since the button on the drill is not pressed into the working position, we press it, the device should show or notify the sound signals about the integrity of the circuit.
Possible drill malfunctions:
1 Faulty power cord
2 The power button of the drill is not working
3 The reverse switch is faulty or it is in the neutral position
4 Worn graphite shields (brushes)
5 Breakage of the stator winding.
Strong sparking on the commutator indicates that it is time to replace worn graphite brushes. And if the sparking on the collector is accompanied by the smell of burnt bird cherry, then it is 100% that the windings of the drill are burning due to an interturn circuit.
When rewinding the windings, the following conditions must be met: the windings are wound in one direction, for example, at the coil we mark the beginning of the winding, we wind the wire clockwise, after winding, we mark the end of the output. The second winding is wound in the same direction, with the start and end pins marked.
As it turned out, it is not difficult to rewind the excitation winding. Now knowing the principle of operation of the collector motor, it will not be difficult to apply reverse to such email. engines.
You will always have time to buy a new tool) A real master must know the principle of operation and be able to fix what he works with.
Motor diagnostics.
In second place, in terms of the number of drill breakdowns, you can put a malfunction of the engine elements and most often the anchor. The failure of the armature or stator occurs for two reasons - improper operation and poor-quality winding wire. World-famous manufacturers use expensive winding wire with double insulation with heat-resistant varnish, which significantly increases the reliability of engines. Accordingly, in cheap models, the quality of the winding wire insulation leaves much to be desired. Improper operation is reduced to frequent overloads of the drill or prolonged work, without interruptions to cool the engine. Do-it-yourself drill repair by rewinding the armature or stator, in this case it is impossible without special tools. Only a complete replacement of the element (exceptionally experienced repairmen will be able to rewind the armature or stator with their own hands).
To replace the rotor or stator, it is necessary to disassemble the housing, disconnect the wires, brushes, if necessary, remove the drive gear, and remove the entire motor along with the support bearings. Replace the defective element and reinstall the engine.
You can determine the malfunction of the armature by a characteristic smell, an increase in sparking, while the sparks have a circular motion in the direction of movement of the armature. Pronounced "burnt" windings can be seen during visual inspection. But if the engine power has dropped, but there are no signs described above, then you should resort to the help of measuring instruments - an ohmmeter and a megohmmeter.
Windings (stator and armature) are subject to only three damages - inter-turn electrical breakdown, breakdown to the "case" (magnetic circuit) and winding breakage. The breakdown on the case is determined quite simply, it is enough to touch any output of the winding and the magnetic circuit with the probes of the megohmmeter. Resistance over 500MΩ indicates no breakdown. It should be borne in mind that measurements should be carried out with a megohmmeter, in which the measuring voltage is not less than 100 volts. By making measurements with a simple multimeter, it is impossible to determine for sure that there is no breakdown, but you can determine that there is definitely a breakdown.
It is quite difficult to determine the interturn breakdown of the armature, unless, of course, it is visible visually. To do this, you can use a special transformer, which has only a primary winding and a gap in the magnetic circuit in the form of a gutter, to install an armature in it. In this case, the armature with its core becomes a secondary winding. Turning the armature so that the windings are alternately in operation, we apply a thin metal plate to the armature core. If the winding is short-circuited, then the plate begins to rattle strongly, while the winding heats up noticeably.
Often, an interturn short circuit is found in visible sections of the wire or armature busbar: the turns can be bent, crumpled (i.e., pressed against each other), or there can be any conductive particles between them. If so, then it is necessary to eliminate these short circuits, by correcting bruises in the tavern or by removing foreign bodies, respectively. Also, a short can be detected between adjacent collector plates. 
You can determine the breakage of the armature winding if you connect a milliammeter to adjacent armature plates and gradually turn the armature. In whole windings, a certain identical current will occur, a break will show either an increase in current or its complete absence.
A break in the stator windings is determined by connecting an ohmmeter to the disconnected ends of the windings, the absence of resistance indicates a complete break.
Speed controller and reverse. The presence of voltage at the input terminals of the power button and the absence of voltage at the output indicates a malfunction of the contacts or components of the speed controller circuit. To disassemble the button, you can carefully pick up the latches of the protective cover and pull it off the button body. Visual inspection of the terminals will allow you to judge their performance. Blackened terminals are cleaned of soot with alcohol or fine sandpaper. Then the button is assembled again and checked for contact, if nothing has changed, then the button with the regulator must be replaced. The speed controller is made on a substrate and is completely filled with an insulating compound, therefore it cannot be repaired. Another characteristic malfunction of the button is the erasing of the working layer under the rheostat slider. The easiest way out is to replace the entire button.
Do-it-yourself drill button repair is possible only if you have certain skills. It is important to understand that after opening the case, many switching parts will simply fall out of the case. This can be prevented only by gently lifting the cover initially and by the desired sketching of the location of the contacts and springs.
The reverse device (if it is not located in the button housing) has its own changeover contacts, therefore it is also subject to contact loss. The disassembly and cleaning mechanism is the same as the buttons.
Processed
In electric drills, a special device called a chuck is used to securely fix the drills. In household drills, cam chucks are most widely used. With heavy use, they can fail and require replacement or repair. Problems often arise during these operations. So how do you remove the cartridge from the drill shaft, disassemble it into its component parts and change it to a new one?
The role of the chuck in securing the drill
Clamping drill chucks for household drills are available in three versions:
- key;
- quick-clamping;
- gear-crown.
The body of the key cam chuck is made in the form of a hollow hardened cylindrical bushing (collet), on the outer surface of which a rotating adjusting clip is installed. On one side, the cylinder is mounted on the drive shaft of the drill, and on the other side there are cams (petals) for attaching the cutting tool (drills, taps, reamers, etc.). When the adjusting sleeve rotates, the steel cams move along the guides with the help of a special thread. If they approach each other, the drill is clamped. If they diverge from each other, the tool is released. The approach and distance of the cams depends on the direction of rotation of the cage. Reliable fixation of the drill is ensured by tightening the chuck holder with great effort. For this, a special key or a quick-clamping - on quick-clamping chucks - coupling is used.
The wrench helps to clamp the drill firmly and easily unscrew the adjusting collar. Drills of various diameters with a cylindrical shank are fixed in cam chucks. Most often, the cartridges of household electric drills are designed for drills with a diameter of 0.8 to 10 mm or 1.5 to 13 mm.
Why and when should you change?
The clamping device must be able to drill holes with acceptable accuracy. But over time, the seats on the shaft and at the cams wear out, the cartridge starts to beat. That is, the working area of the drill begins to rotate from side to side during rotation, and the hole is drilled with deviations both in place and in diameter. The wear of the cams does not allow the drills to be securely fastened, and they stop when loaded. There is only one way out - to change the worn cartridge for a new one.
How to replace a drill chuck with your own hands?
To mount the chuck on the drive shaft of the drill, a threaded connection or a Morse taper is used. A visual inspection of an electric drill will not always help to suggest a method for fixing a drill chuck. The marking on the cartridge can inform about this: it is knocked out on its surface.
Replacing the taper view of the part
Morse taper size (according to GOST 9953–82) consists of 9 values: from B7 to B45. The larger the number after the letter B, the larger the diameter of the cone.
Thus, having found the marking “B” on the surface of the cartridge, we can conclude that this is a device with a conical mounting base. With this method of attachment, the cartridge is easily removed. It is enough to use a punch and a metalwork hammer.
Video: how to remove a cartridge with a cone from an electric drill?
Reversible threaded chuck replacement
Two types of threads are used to fasten the drill clamp to an electric household drill using a threaded joint:
- inch (for foreign models);
- metric (from Russian manufacturers).
The following type of marking is applied to the surface of the threaded chuck body: 1.5–13 1/2 - 20UNF or 1.5–13 M12x1.25.
The reversible threaded chuck has a left-handed screw for fixing. You need to know this nuance when removing a broken cartridge. In order to get to the screw head, it is necessary to drown the cams in the collet to failure. As soon as the head of the screw is visible, you need to unscrew it with a hardened Phillips screwdriver to the right in a clockwise direction. Then clamp the hexagon key into the cams and hit it sharply in a counterclockwise direction. After the cartridge is torn from its place, it will easily unscrew.
Video: how to remove a chuck from a reverse drill or screwdriver?
On other models, there are other options for mounting the cartridge on the thread. In some cases, the cartridge is twisted entirely from the threaded end of the shaft. In other cases, the screw can be fixed with a special thin key using a narrow groove. The main difficulty is to move the cartridge from its place when unscrewing. Sometimes this is very difficult to do. In any case, to remove the cartridge, you need: a metalwork tool, the necessary skill and patience.
Dismantling the chuck of a drill with a quick-locking nut
To clean the cams, lubricate the moving parts and threads of the cartridge, it must be disassembled. Disassembly is necessary for the repair and replacement of parts that have failed. Here is a short list and sequence of operations for disassembling the chuck:
- The removed cartridge with the conical part upwards, lined with wooden gaskets, is clamped by the clutch in a vice.
- The gas wrench carefully unscrews the notched nut.
- The bearing is pulled out. Gets the puck.
- The cartridge is removed from the vise.
- The adjusting sleeve is twisted from the base by hand. If it does not give in (jammed), then the cartridge turns over and is again squeezed by the clutch in a vice. A little machine oil is poured onto the threaded part of the coupling and the base. Then, with a gas wrench, the base is skillfully unscrewed from the coupling.
- If there is a retaining ring or nut at the bottom, they are removed.
- The cams are pulled out of the guide rings and removed from the base cone.
- All parts of the drill chuck are carefully inspected. In case of detection of worn, deformed or broken parts, they are rejected and replaced.
- Assembly of the chuck is carried out in the reverse order. At the same time, all moving parts are lubricated with a special grease. It is best to use the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer.
The procedure for disassembling cartridges of other models may be different. It depends on the type of cartridge, its design and the manufacturer of the drill. To independently disassemble the drill chuck, you must fulfill three conditions:
- to have in stock necessary set tools;
- have locksmith skills;
- to be a person with a stable, balanced psyche.
Possible problems with the chuck during the operation of the drill: causes, description and solutions
To prevent problems with a drill, you need to be able to work on it correctly. A drill is a universal tool, it can be used to drill wood and metal, plastic and tiles, stone and glass, concrete and brick. In everyday life, a medium-power percussion rotary drill is usually used. It is equipped with a cartridge of the SDS system, which was invented by BOSH. The SDS chuck is not particularly accurate, but is ideal for drilling concrete, stone, brick. That is, those building materials where drilling is needed with a blow.
For more precise drilling of metal and wood parts, it has a special adapter for attaching a clamping cam key or keyless chuck. The drill cannot perform milling work. drill chuck not designed for lateral load and will quickly fail. Great value It has:
- correct choice of drill;
- correct sharpening of the cutting part of the drill;
- obligatory marking of the center of the holes with a core.
It is necessary to skillfully use the choice of the desired speed, feed, mode of operation, depending on the material of the workpiece. All these factors directly affect the reliable operation of the drill chuck.
Detail flies
The cartridge flies? Such a problem is quite common even on new drills with a taper fit of the chuck when drilling a deep hole. You need to raise the drill to free it from the chips, and at this moment the cartridge flies off the cone. The situation can be corrected by increasing the tension in cone conjugation. To do this, the cartridge is heated in oil or an oven to a temperature of 110 degrees and sits on a cold drill mandrel.
Clamping jaws jammed
The work of the drill always takes place in dirty conditions. These are dust, dirt, shavings, sawdust and other small debris. If this debris gets inside the chuck, it can cause jamming of threaded connections, in particular, at the cams. There is only one way out. Requires disassembly of the cartridge, cleaning and washing of moving parts. Before assembly, all moving parts are lubricated with lithol. Especially a lot of waste is poured into the cartridge when drilling ceiling surfaces. Here you can think about protecting the cartridge with half a small rubber ball.
beat
Chuck runout can be caused by various reasons. For example, the Morse cone is worn out. This can be checked with paint. A uniform layer is applied to the cone, a cartridge is mounted. Then the trace that he left on the cone is removed and studied. Another reason could be uneven cam wear. In this case, they need to be changed. But more often they change the broken cartridge for a new clamping device.
In skillful hands, a household drill works wonders. It is used to drill holes in hard and soft materials. The chuck is an important part of the drilling machine. It is he who ensures the reliability of fastening the drill and the accuracy of drilling. Therefore, for home master it is very important to be able to independently provide minor repairs and replacement of this part of the device.
