Description: War Thunder is a next generation military MMO game dedicated to...
In general, a collet chuck was needed for an excellent high-speed aircraft engine, with an electromagnetic brake.
He has a flange, also very convenient, for creating a spindle on a small CNC machine for an electronics engineer. Well, the weight is 0.5 kg.
It’s hard to buy offline, it’s hard to find the right diameter, so that it’s of high quality, and the price is reasonable. I remember taking it for a long time, somewhere around 500 rubles, on the radio market. It will probably cost twice as much now.
I ordered from the Chinese, several pieces at once. It went without a track, for a very long time, I wanted to open a dispute already. But still came for more than 3 months.
The quality made me happy. It was worth the wait.
And yes, the price is great. Now the Chinese are even cheaper than when I took it.
Separately, the cartridge comes in such a bag.
Well different types him in the photo.
See photo
Its diameter is about 2.5 mm. It suited me, so it was necessary to get, under a larger shaft.
In general, it goes, for such motors from the printer. Did not try on.
Since you need to tighten the gear, which is very well pressed. 
And I needed to make a collet, for such an engine. 
Which was successfully done, according to the method in the bonuses below.
Here's another photo for you. as it lies in the hand, it can be used perfectly as an engraver.
Very reliable. The shaft will not cut, if that. 
In general, as promised, the technique is how to ream and not to beat. The video is not from me.
Oh, and a bonus photo from me.
Here
and here
there are more details on the collet chuck itself additionally.
I will answer questions in the review itself. I won’t give pleasure anymore, to those who like to downvote in comments.
Your questions.
1. Buy, search on radio markets and on the Internet.
2. It is written that it will be inserted automatically, so we are waiting. Gave a link.
3. I duplicate the link 111.93 rubles. / PCS.
4. Engine name is D-12TF 2 series
5. It's slang. Not only you have it.
6. Guys, if you write rubbish as a theorist, not a practitioner, I do not answer. Only my own experience, which is verified.
===================================================================
I will describe my method of drilling the desired diameter.
I need 4mm holes. Ideally, of course, go through a 4 mm scan. Unfortunately, I could not find it, it seems that it was somewhere.
In general, we take drills of several diameter steps, of your choice, 2.8, 3, 3.5, 3.8, 4.
We clamp an even bar in a vice. Maybe chipboard.
In it, with the diameters listed above, we drill holes, in a row.
Then we install the body of the chuck, with the fixing screws unscrewed, into the drill chuck ...
We turn the drills upside down with the cutting part, hold the shank with pliers or something else, and slowly lower the drill chuck with its rear part clamped by the collet. That is, we drill directly.
Center the chuck on the motor shaft.
(too old post to reply)
Maksim Gataulin
2005-05-30 03:35:01 UTC
All_, all the pleasures just began, 40 miles from the sun...
A little bit like
normally, as soon as you strengthen the clamp - that's it, the cartridge starts to beat. Maybe have
what are the tricks in this
friction and chuck itself
Guerrilla radio, turn that shit up... (c) Rage Against The Machine
Yuri Y. Lesnichenko
2005-05-30 01:08:25 UTC
Hello Maxim!
MG> I've been fighting for two days, it doesn't work. While you hold on
MG>
MG>
MG> really? I read somewhere that you can rub the axle with rosin and
MG> put the cartridge on the rotating shaft, the rosin melts from
MG>
MG>
MG> melts me :(
MG> Yes, chuck - with four screws for clamping, axis - 3mm
Apparently, the landing hole in the cartridge is large. Therefore, when clamping, the skew
it turns out.
Tricks with rosin - this is one time. You can, however, still try with sulfur,
it is stronger, but the melting point is higher.
The most radical way to solve the problem will be an adapter.
2005-05-30 03:39:00 UTC
Hey Maxim!
Mon May 30 2005, Yuri Y. Lesnichenko wrote to Maksim Gataulin:
MG>> I fight already two days, it does not turn out in any way. While you hold on
MG>> a little - it seems to be normal, as soon as you strengthen the clamp -
MG>> everything, the cartridge begins to beat. Is there any trick to this
MG>> business? I read somewhere that you can rub the axle with rosin and
MG>> put the cartridge on the rotating shaft, the rosin melts from
MG>> friction and the cartridge itself is centered, the rosin freezes.
MG>> Only nothing comes out, the rosin crumbles and does not
MG>> I'm melting :(
MG>> Yes, chuck - with four screws for clamping, axis - 3mm
Try dressing with copper (brass) foil.
All the best,
Andrew
Masanin A.M.
2005-05-31 14:23:00 UTC
MG>
MG> like
MG> normally, as soon as you strengthen the clip - that's it, the cartridge starts to beat.
MG> Maybe eat
MG> what are the tricks in this case? I read somewhere that you can rub rosin
MG> axis and
MG> put the cartridge on the rotating shaft, the rosin melts from friction and the cartridge
MG> himself
MG> centers, rosin hardens. Only nothing comes out, rosin
MG> crumbles and doesn't melt for me :(
MG> Yes, chuck - with four screws for clamping, axis - 3mm
Diam. cartridge holes? Chuck with interchangeable collets? Hole in cartridge
coaxial?
I check the alignment at speed by easily pressing a piece of GOI to the cartridge,
on the mark I twist the screws.
Previously I tried this technique: the shaft is tinned, at low speeds
heated with a soldering iron until the solder melts, the soldering iron is removed, solder
cools down, soldering centering is maintained. Glasses are a must!!! Solder
flies!!!
The higher the speed, the thinner the layer of solder. Extra solder
grind/scrape at high speeds.
Disadvantage: the solder is soft, the screws cut the solder.
-+-
Sincerely, _<-собак
Masanin Alexander masanin(_a_)yandex(dot)ru
--
Sent via server [email protected] - http://talk.mail.ru
Sasha Pelepeichenko
2005-06-11 16:20:32 UTC
Hayushki, *Maksim*!
MG> I've been fighting for two days, it doesn't work. While you squeeze a little -
MG> seems to be normal, as soon as you strengthen the clamp - that's it, the cartridge starts
MG> beat. Maybe there are some tricks in this case? I read somewhere that you can
MG> rub the axle with rosin and put the cartridge on the rotating shaft, rosin
MG> melts from friction and the cartridge itself is centered, the rosin freezes. Only
MG> nothing comes out, the rosin crumbles and does not melt for me :(
MG> Yes, chuck - with four screws for clamping, axis - 3mm
So this is the axle diameter. And the diameter of the hole in the shaft is probably much larger,
hence the problems.
I would try to wind the tape around the axle so that it is tight (but without effort)
entered the shaft. Yes, and the clamp needs to be strengthened the same way and a little bit - each
tighten the screw a little. And then if you tighten one screw, and the rest
no, of course.
From the eleventh time - it will work :))
the shaft should be tapered...
- Varieties of cartridges
- Fitting and removing the chuck
- Drill chuck disassembly
- Removing the chuck shaft
- Cartridge malfunctions
- Required Tool
The drill is one of the most used tools in the home. But sometimes the question arises of how to disassemble the drill chuck. With all the reliability of the tool sometimes fails. One of the reasons may be the breakdown of the cartridge.
The design of the cartridge is quite simple, and almost all drills have similar elements. At the same time, the compact arrangement of parts and the strength of fastening can cause difficulties. The issue of tool disassembly often becomes quite relevant.
Varieties of cartridges
Cartridge - important element in the design of any type of drill - a hammer drill or a screwdriver. It provides a strong fixing of the drill and transfer to it rotary motion from the shaft. Based on the functional features, two main components can be distinguished - the drill attachment system and the chuck attachment system to the main shaft of the drill.
According to the mechanism for fixing the drill, the cam-type chuck used in most drills stands out. Its principle of operation is based on the movement of special metal sponges (cams) placed on a cone. The cylinder, rotating on a conical surface, ensures the movement of the cams in the transverse direction, bringing them closer or pushing them apart. Accordingly, the drill placed between the jaws is clamped or released, depending on the direction of movement of the jaws.
Electric drill chucks differ in the way the cylinder (adjustment sleeve) is driven around the cams. Two options are used - key (normal) and quick-clamping. The key method implies the presence of additional gearing between the elements and is implemented using a special key that drives the gear. The quick-clamping version is based on the running of the sleeve over the threaded surface made on the cams. The rotation of the sleeve is done manually.
Scheme of a classic drill chuck.
According to the method of fastening on the tool shaft, the chucks can be divided into threaded and conical. Threaded ones are screwed onto the shaft due to the threaded connection. Tapered use the principle of Morse cones, i.e. have a cone-shaped end hole, into which the conical shaft shank is tightly inserted.
The cam-type electric drill chuck securely fixes drills with a cylindrical shank of different diameters in a certain range. Most often, elements are produced with a range of installed drills of 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.
Back to index
What parts does a cartridge consist of?
The entire design of the cam chuck is assembled on the inner conical sleeve (shaft) - the base. Guide rings for cams are placed on the surface of the base. The cams themselves are made of metal bars and have threaded cuts in the form of transverse grooves on the outer surface. In the upper part, the bars are cut into a cone. The grooves on all the cams are made in such a way that when the bars are aligned, the grooves form a single thread.
Cams (three or four pieces) are placed on the conical surface of the base and passed through the guide rings. An adjusting sleeve is installed on top of the base with cams, made in the form of a cylinder with an internal thread, similar to the thread on the cams. From the front side of the cartridge, a washer and an annular bearing are put on in series. Finally, the entire structure is fixed with a nut with teeth on the outside.
On the back side in the center of the base, a hole was made for attaching to the drill shaft. Depending on the type of cartridge, this hole is in the form of a threaded cylinder or a non-threaded cone. The hole is not through. On the surface that plugs the end hole, there is another hole of smaller diameter with a left-hand thread for a locking screw.
After assembly, the cartridge is a single unit and works as follows. The cylindrical sleeve with its thread rolls around the thread of the cams, while it does not have the possibility of longitudinal movement. This movement along the surface of the base is forced by the cams. Since the base has the shape of a cone, the cams, moving longitudinally, are simultaneously forced to approach each other in the transverse direction.
In key type chucks, an additional locking ring with threaded knurling is installed on the surface. A gear moves along this thread, the hollow shaft of which is brought into the socket on the sleeve. The drive of this gear is carried out by the rotation of the key. The gear, running around the ring, rotates the adjusting sleeve.
Back to index
Fitting and removing the chuck
The cartridge is installed on the main shaft of the electric drill with a hole on its base. It either twists (threaded type of fastening), or fits tightly on a cone (conical type of fastening). Through the hole in the base, the cartridge is fixed with a locking screw with a left-hand thread. To do this, the jaws are completely divorced, and the screw is vertically inserted into its hole and twisted counterclockwise.
Those who have disassembled the cartridge know that it must first be removed from the drill shaft. Removal is carried out as follows. Sponges are completely divorced. A Phillips screwdriver unscrews the locking screw, which is located inside and at the bottom of the chuck between the cams. The screw is unscrewed clockwise. Then the drill is fixed in a stationary state, and the cartridge is unscrewed clockwise. Usually, after the tool has been used, it is firmly fixed on the shaft. So you have to make an effort.
The body of the drill should be clamped in a vise, and the chuck is unscrewed with a gas wrench. In order not to damage the sleeve, a gasket should be used between the key and the sleeve. If such an effort is not enough, then two keys can be used. With one key, the shaft of the electric drill is firmly fixed, and the chuck rotates with the second key.
The taper mount chuck is much easier to remove. The drill is fixed in a vertical position downwards. From the back, the end surface of the cartridge is first lightly tapped with a hammer over the entire area. Then, with stronger blows in several places, the cartridge is knocked off the shaft. To evenly distribute the force, you can install a wrench on the surface and strike it.
Back to index
Drill chuck disassembly
The question of how to quickly disassemble the drill chuck is solved in the following order. The element is fixed in a vise, preferably through a soft metal gasket. First, the top toothed nut is unscrewed. You can use a gas wrench, but this must be done carefully so as not to damage the nut. Lubricate with oil first. The bearing and washer are then removed.
The cartridge is removed from the vise, and the sleeve is manually unscrewed from the base. If the sleeve is jammed, then the cartridge can be disassembled only by applying force. To do this, he is clamped again in a vise, but back side up. Oil is poured between the base and the sleeve. Using a gas wrench, the base is unscrewed.
If there is a lower lock nut or ring, then they must first be removed.
The base is removed from the sleeve. The cams are removed from the guide rings and removed from the conical part of the base. Disassembly issue resolved.
It is difficult to imagine a house where there is no electric drill. It is the favorite instrument of almost every man.
Usually the user does not worry about the drill, the tool works for itself, and let it work. But then a strong beating of the drill appeared or the mechanism of its clamp jammed, repairs loomed on the horizon. There was a need to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. This is where some inexperienced craftsmen will need advice on how to do the necessary work without ruining the drill completely and irrevocably. To get started, you should familiarize yourself with information about the types of cartridges and how to mount them on a drill.
Design features
Main types of cartridges for household drills the following:
- keyless or BZP, easy to use, allowing you to easily and quickly change the tool, but strength and durability are not too high; nevertheless, drills with keyless chucks (with one or two clutches) are deservedly popular;
- gear-crown, requiring the use of a special key.
There are also other varieties, such as SDS + and SDS-max from Bosch. But it is not worth dwelling on this issue in detail, since the type of chuck according to the method of clamping the drill does not affect the method of attaching the chuck to the drill spindle.
Mounting the chuck on the spindle of an electric drill
Actually, There are two mounting methods:
- conical conjugation;
- threaded connection.
You can find out the type of fastening by marking:
- the inscriptions B10, B12, B18, etc. characterize the parameters of the Morse taper, the special shape of the mating surfaces (there are 9 standard sizes from B7 to B45 in total); before this designation mark the range of diameters of drill shanks, for example, 1-6 V10;
- type designations 1−15 M13×1.3; characterizing the parameters of a metric thread (drill shank diameter, thread diameter and thread pitch);
- abbreviations UNF (the full marking is similar in structure to the metric thread marking, for example, 2-13 mm ½ - UNF, where ½ indicates the thread diameter in inches, and the number 20 characterizes the number of threads per one inch), which indicates fastening with an inch thread ; this type of connection is typical for imported instruments.
Technology for removing the chuck from an electric drill
To perform this operation the following tools may be required:
The tool is removed from the chuck first. The key chuck can also be unlocked without a key by inserting a drill shank into the hole.
Dismantling with conical interface
This pairing option should not cause disassembly difficulties.
If there is a fixing screw, unscrew it.
It is recommended to orient the tool with the drill down and remove the cartridge with light taps hammer (to protect the mechanisms from damage, a better option is to hit the cartridge body with a rubber or wooden mallet through a gasket - an open-end wrench).
If there is a tool for removing bearings, it is better to use it.
Dismantling with a threaded connection
In this case disassembly is as follows:
- The cams are recessed as far down as possible, since at the bottom of their nest there is an internal screw head, which must be reached with a screwdriver. However, the presence of a screw is not required.
- The screw is unscrewed from the spindle with a screwdriver, the fixing screw has a left-hand thread, that is, it is unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise. If there are difficulties in turning the screw, you can lightly tap on it with a hammer through a screwdriver.
- The chuck is unscrewed from the shaft like a regular nut with a right-hand thread, that is, by turning it counterclockwise. If the process is difficult, then the use of two keys is recommended. The spindle is fixed with an open-end wrench, the cartridge is unscrewed with a gas wrench. You can insert a thicker hexagon into the cams and unscrew the cartridge with it.
If the operation still fails, you will have to disassemble the body of the electric drill to provide access to the spindle.
And one more piece of advice: if the screw is damaged during disassembly, then you can buy a drill adapter, it will include a suitable screw.
Conclusion
Features of work on removing the cartridge of drills from different companies (in particular, interskol) can be studied while watching the video.
And a few more tips:
- Before any repair work on the drill, it is necessary to disconnect the power cable from the mains.
- If the case is complicated enough or there are doubts about your qualifications as a repairer of household appliances, it is better to seek help from professionals. Otherwise, there is a risk of completing the repair by purchasing a new drill.
A chuck for a mechanical and electric drill is also called a drill chuck. The main advantage of the drill chuck is the range of diameters for nozzles.
Qualitative drill chuck allows you to use drills from 1 - 2 millimeters to 20 - 25 millimeters. There are no significant drawbacks in this element of the drill, except for the cost of the cartridge itself.
Types of drill chucks
For household and professional drilling equipment, a keyless chuck is used.
With such a clamp, you can change the drill in a couple of seconds without resorting to the help of an improvised key. With increased pressure of the palm, the mechanism is loosened, which will allow the cutting tool to be released from the cartridge. In the same way, the drill is fixed for further work. This type of cartridge works by means of a corrugated metal sleeve and a locking spindle.
The disadvantages of the keyless chuck include unstable clamping. An already worn keyless chuck does not fix large-diameter drills with high quality, which leads to turning. Typical for a round shank.
The key jaw chuck must be loosened and clamped with a special key, which is easy to lose over time in working situations. It is interesting that more experienced users of a drilling tool prefer a chuck with a key, since you can clamp a drill or cutter “tightly”, for example, even in a vice.
When purchasing a drill, screwdriver or hammer drill with a key jaw chuck, immediately fix the key from the kit on the wire with insulating tape or tie it to a strong cord. There will never be a problem with changing the drill.
Mini drill chucks are very popular among radio amateurs. Such elements are sometimes placed on a drill or mini drill. It can be installed on any tool adapted for drilling. For example, jewelry makers will not be able to perform work without this fastener.
Most often, mini cartridges are used for a light drill or household screwdriver. The optimal drill diameter for a mini chuck is from 0.1 to 4.5 millimeters.
It is very convenient to drill chip, mini models and jewelry.
The mini chuck has the simplest design of a quick-clamping collet chuck. Most often made of brass.
How to remove and change a cartridge with a threaded connection
The threaded chuck for the drill is mounted on the shaft of the power tool and is fixed by the left-hand thread of the screw. It is necessary to remove the damaged cartridge from this mount, but take into account the non-standard threaded connection.
The above screw is located inside the cartridge, logically, you need to unscrew the cams as much as possible, in other words, “drown” to the limit. This is what the action looks like:
How to disassemble the drill chuck? Inside you can see the same screw, removed with a Phillips screwdriver. Having gained access to it, you need to unscrew it strictly clockwise with a good screwdriver. There are instrument models where this screw is not installed. In this case, the cartridge is completely twisted off the shaft without preparatory work.
A screw with a left-hand thread loses its sharpness of the groove over time due to inaccurate changes in cutting tools. For convenience, you can hit the screw through the inserted screwdriver with a hammer. This action will deepen the groove without harm to the tool.
When unscrewing, you can use a 14 key for convenience.
How then to remove the cartridge from the drill? Everything is very simple, by unscrewing the screw or spindle with a left-hand thread, the cartridge itself is unscrewed by hand for replacement or repair.
Further replacement of the drill chuck
Nothing complicated - purchase a cartridge suitable for a drill and install it along the thread with a similar sequence.
How to quickly remove the chuck from a drill is shown in this short video:
When replacing, take into account the type of connection. There are two of them:
- conical;
- threaded.
A threaded cartridge is installed on the tool according to the above scheme.
It is important to know that the threaded cartridge is marked with two types:
- 1.5-13 M12*1.25;
- 1.5-13 1/2 - 20UNF.
1.5 - 13 - marking of the minimum and maximum diameter for the cutting toolinstalled in the chuck.
When replacing, this marking must be observed. If a value is indicated on the cartridge from your drill, for example, 1.5 -13 M12, then you should change it to a cartridge with the same marking.
The conical type of connection is a little simpler. When replacing the cartridge, they are simply inserted. There are the following varieties:
Interestingly, any cartridge in the tool shop marked "B" means exactly the conical base of the mount. The numbers on the marking (from 10 to 18) are the diameter of the lower hole.
How do I remove a taper chuck from a drill? The easiest. The cartridge is dismantled with a conventional hammer, knocking it out of the pin.
How to remove a cone chuck from an electric drill - video
Frequent use of a drill, both professional and domestic, entails the wear of some of its parts. In particular, chuck wear is observed, resulting in problems such as loss of drills, bits, whisks during operation. As a result, it is necessary to periodically tighten the tightening of the cartridge so as not to be injured during the working process. You can correct the current situation by removing and replacing the cartridge, but we will learn how to do this from this material.
All drills, screwdrivers and hammers are equipped with cartridges for fixing working parts, the principle of operation of which is based on a cam mechanism. Bits, drills and other auxiliary devices are fixed in the chuck by clamping them between three, and sometimes four, connecting cams. The cams are a cone-shaped structure that moves only in the longitudinal direction when the adjusting special sleeve is turned. There are two types of cartridges:
- key;
- quick-clamping or manual.
Key cartridges fix the working tool by using a special key, but on keyless drills enough manual effort to secure the working nozzles. Depending on the quality of the production of the drill, as well as the frequency of its use, the service life of the chuck depends. Cams wear out, so the chuck is not able to fix the working nozzles. The cams cannot be repaired, so the need to remove the chuck is to replace the worn part and thereby reanimate the drill.
Key chuck for drill with a special key
The cartridge is infrequently removed from the tool when a drill or bit is jammed in it. Turning the chuck relative to the tool shaft is also a negative consequence, which can be eliminated only if the chuck is unscrewed and replaced with a new one. Both keyless chucks, in which the jaws have a shorter service life, and key chucks, which differ from the first by the maximum tightening force of the working nozzles, are subject to replacement. Impact drills are equipped only with key drums, since fixing the working tool on them is much more reliable.
Keyless chuck for drill
What tool is required
To carry out work on dismantling the cartridge, replacing it, as well as to remove a jammed drill, you will need to make sure that you have the following necessary tools:
1) Vice and pliers.
2) Hammer and mallet.
3) Wrench and pipe wrenches.
4) Phillips screwdriver.
As you can see, every man has such tools in the garage, so you can remove and replace the cartridge with drills with your own hands.
Removing a drill from a jammed chuck + (Video)
If you are faced with the problem of jamming the drill, then not in all cases it is necessary to remove the cartridge to remove it. When the drill is jammed in the chuck, it can be removed by using a vise.
The drill must be clamped in a vice in a horizontal position. The body of the drill also needs to be fixed so that it is stationary. On the surface of the cartridge and the sleeve, you must first knock lightly with a hammer, and then apply strong blows. It is important to strike the sleeve in the direction of the tangent plane. Hammering continues until the drill is released from engagement with the chuck.
If using a hammer it is not possible to release the drill and unwind the cams, then you can use a gas wrench. The body of the drill and the jammed drill are fixed in a vice, and the chuck is rotated clockwise with a gas or pipe wrench. You can also use two pipe wrenches by clamping the drill shaft with one tool, and trying to rotate the clamping element with the second.
Mounts: what they are + (Video)
The clamping mechanism is attached to the drill shaft using the following methods:
- threaded connection;
- conical connection.
In the design of a threaded connection, an additional locking screw is often used, shown in the photo below. With its help, the reliability of fixing the cartridge is ensured.
Chuck, key and lock screw for threaded connection
The threaded connection is provided by identical threads on the tool shaft and in the channel of the clamping mechanism. Of considerable importance is the type of thread used in this connection, and they are metric and inch. The thread used on the drill is indicated using a special abbreviation, which has an approximate form:
"1.5-15 M13x1.2"
The abbreviation stands for the following:
If the tool uses an inch thread marking, then the abbreviation is designated UNF. In modern models of drills, an inch type of thread is used, since the choice of clamping mechanisms with an inch thread is much more extensive.
Shaft for secure fastening of the clamping mechanism is equipped with a locking screw, which has a left-hand thread. Therefore, unscrewing the screw to remove the cartridge is carried out in a clockwise direction.
A less common way is to mount the chuck with a clamping mechanism based on the use of a Morse taper. AT this case the shaft is a cone shape, and the clamping mechanism is equipped with a similar shape in the inner channel. The fastening of the mechanism occurs under the influence of the power planting of the device on the structure of the shaft of the electric motor of the tool. Such mechanisms are marked with the following abbreviations: B10, B12, B18 etc..
Key chuck for drill with cone connection (marking)
The letter designation indicates the marking of the cone, and the digital one is the diameter of the tail of the tool. The conical connection has the following form, shown in the photo below.
Cone connectors for chucks
The conical fastening method is more reliable, since it can withstand large power loads than the first connection option. In addition, it is easy to use: it is easy to remove and just as easy to put on the shaft.
We find out how to fix the cartridge
In order to find out how to fix the cartridge on the drill, it is necessary to conduct an external examination. Specialists determine the moment at a glance, and for inexperienced craftsmen there is a marking by which one can judge the method of attaching the cartridge to the drill. Examples of markings for taper and threaded connections are described above.
We remove the cartridges with their various connections + (Video)
To remove a chuck that is screwed to the tool, proceed as follows:
1) Inside the cartridge there is a screw located in the middle of the device. This screw has a left hand thread.
2) You will need to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw.
3) It is necessary to unscrew it in the direction of the clockwise direction, that is, to the left.
4) After unscrewing the screw, which may not be available on some models of drills, it is necessary to unscrew the unit that serves to fix the working element. Unscrewing is carried out by turning the unit to the right.
Such popular manufacturers of power tools as Interskol and Makita have a similar design for fixing cartridges on drills and screwdrivers. Therefore, all that is needed in order to unwind the cartridge is to determine the type of connection and then use one method or another to remove the cartridge.
Drill "Makita" with keyless chuck and threaded connection
To remove a chuck with a cone connection, there are often no problems at all. The simplest way is the ability to carry out work using a hammer. With its help, the structural element is knocked out of engagement. At the same time, the drill must be fixed in a vice so that the cartridge looks down. After that, blows are applied to the back of the cartridge, thereby dismantling it.
Drill with various cones for securing the chuck
We put on a new cartridge + (Video)
After the cartridge has been dismantled, it must be replaced with a new one. To do this, the following steps are performed:
1) For threaded chuck connection:
- a new cartridge is wound onto the screw shaft in the clockwise direction;
- the screw is tightened in the direction of rotation counterclockwise.
2) For taper connection:
- fix the drill in a vise;
- put the chuck on the shaft;
- Using a hammer and a mallet, install the part in place.
So, to remove the cartridge from any drill, you need to know the procedure and be able to distinguish between the design features of the joints. The only drawback of all these procedures is the need to replace the cartridge with a new one, because worn parts can no longer be repaired.
So I decided to make myself a universal machine with a drill chuck. The idea is not new, I know. What will come of it? An excellent machine in which you can attach any nozzles for a drill - polishing wheels, grinding wheels, all kinds of brushes, cutters, and using adapters, you can even fix cleaning and cutting discs for grinders ( I advise you to be careful with them!).
And trust me, this machine is much more comfortable to use than a drill, so it's worth making even if you have a lot of drills.
Parts for universal machine
Used for the machine:
- conventional drill chuck 16mm threaded, for a more precise fit I would recommend using a machine chuck with a taper type B16. A taper chuck has less runout than a threaded chuck. But I had a threaded cartridge available, so I used it. You can also use a keyless chuck;
- asynchronous motor for 180 watts and 1450 rpm. Ideally, it is better to take a motor of about 250 watts;
- turner - made a nozzle for landing a cartridge on the motor shaft.
The machine is generally quite simple to manufacture, the main part is made by a turner: unsure:
How to fix the engine?
Check also these articles
I removed the original box from the engine and used an electric plastic box instead. I placed a capacitor in it to start the engine and a switch in the form of a button.
The engine was fixed on a small piece of chipboard (furniture board) - this base allows you to mount the machine to the table with two clamps, which is very convenient.
Disadvantages of the machine
Disadvantages of my machine with a drill chuck:
- engine power 180 watts - when polishing, if you press the part hard, the engine stops, it all depends on which engine is available and what parts will be processed, for example, for modeling such a machine will be enough with a margin. And for larger parts, you have to limit the effort when processing on the verge of reducing the engine speed, as a result, after 30 minutes of work, it noticeably heats up, you need to let it rest.
- low revs 1350 rpm in min. - for many purposes this is enough, but if you worked at 3000 rpm. per minute, already expecting more 😥 The ideal option will apply the engine at 3000 rpm. in min. together with a frequency converter - then it will be possible to set any speed, even for polishing plastic.
Photo of a machine with a drill chuck
A photo universal machine with drill chuck:
The inner diameter of my workpiece was 5.2 mm. Having cut off the required length, I clamped the drill in a hand vise and drilled the hole with my hands to a diameter of 5.9 mm for a length equal to the length shank of the cartridge, and with a little effort put a sleeve on it.
And since the inner diameter of the sleeve turned out to be larger than the diameter of the engine shaft, a certain amount of adhesive tape was wound on the motor shaft. The thickness of the winding was controlled by a caliper. If your bushing diameter is smaller than the diameter of the engine shaft, then it should be less (possibly after drilling) by 0.1 mm.
It is better to wind the adhesive tape a little more than necessary, and then, unwinding, find such an amount of it when you can put the sleeve with the cartridge on the engine shaft with an interference fit.
Everything worked out, there is a very slight runout (not quite a smooth shank shaft is to blame), but it suits me.
Video of the drilling process
The drill can already be used in work. Another example: on a small electric motor, it was necessary to put a drill with a diameter of 0.5 mm without a chuck and collet. First, the end plastic part from the gel pen was put on the shaft, and two suitable sheaths from the wire and a drill were inserted into it, one into the other. And this drill does its job well. There is no beating at all.
