Drill chuck - problems when replacing, repairing and how to solve them. Chuck replacement and problem solving options How to replace a cone chuck with a drill

In the household, the most popular tool is the electric drill. AT recent times electric drills, called rotary hammers, are especially popular.
This tool allows not only to drill a hole, but also to tighten nuts, self-tapping screws, screws using nozzles. The electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot electric drills. The main malfunctions in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical failures

Common mechanical failures include failure of the chuck.
And how to remove the cartridge from the screwdriver and replace it?
Immediately, we note that replacing a cartridge with an electric drill, screwdriver, puncher is exactly the same.
The reason for the release of the chuck is most often the wear of the clamping jaws. This is the most serious malfunction of the electric drill. A complete replacement of the chuck is indispensable. And how to remove the cartridge from the drill will show the video.

By the way! The given method of replacing the cartridge is suitable for any modern models of not only electric drills, but also rotary hammers, screwdrivers, since all the above designs provide for just such a method of mounting the cartridge.

But for Soviet-made drills, the cartridge rests on a Morse cone and is screwed on. And how to remove the cartridge from the cone? To do this, you can use a bearing puller or knock it down with a hammer.

Attention! When purchasing a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and thoroughly lubricate all mating parts and threads.

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1. Procedure for replacing the chuck of an electric drill
To disassemble the electric drill, check that its cable is disconnected from the mains.
Using a special key, open the jaws of the chuck to the maximum possible position.
If you look inside the open chuck, then most often you can see a screw designed to fasten the cam chuck to the motor shaft.
As a rule, the screw is unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver.
Remember! The thread of the fixing screw is left-handed, and it is unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise.
Unscrew the screw, insert the L-shaped hex key into the chuck in place of the drill and tighten it.

If a screw has a worn head and you cannot remove it with a screwdriver, do so.
Take a second drill, insert a drill with the diameter of the screw head into it and proceed to drill out the screw. It will all end with the fact that when drilling the screw is unscrewed.

Insert an open end wrench onto the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models in which the gap between the chuck and the body is very small. We'll have to pick up the key or file it in thickness. The key is needed to fix the motor shaft.
Models of earlier releases do not have turnkey slots on the shaft. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the body of the drill, remove one cover. Clamp the driven gear of the cartridge shaft and the cooling fan at the same time and with a sharp counterclockwise movement try to unscrew the cartridge.

But back to the option with the key.
Now, placing the drill on a wooden plane and fixing the shaft with a key, hit the protruding tail of the hex wrench counterclockwise with a wooden or rubber mallet.
The chuck is threaded onto the shaft.
Turn the chuck counterclockwise to remove it from the power drill.
If you do not have an L-shaped hex wrench, you can use a drill of a suitable diameter, which is inserted into one of the three holes for the clamping key.

Examine the cartridge. If the cams are completely out of order, replace the drill chuck with a new one. Install the new chuck on the drill in reverse order.
Remember! When installing a new chuck, be sure to lubricate all friction parts. This is especially true for threaded connections.

We have considered the case when it is necessary to replace the cam chuck. But after all, power tools are also produced with quick-release chucks.

Keyless chucks allow you to change the drill in seconds without using any additional tools or fixtures.
Keyless chucks are divided into single-sleeve and double-sleeve.
A special mechanism is installed at the design of a single-sleeve chuck, which blocks the shaft at the time of changing the tool. The replacement operation can be performed with one hand.
With a double-sleeve chuck, tool change is performed with two hands. The first clutch is held with one hand, the other clutch is twisted with the other hand.
But quick-clamping structures do not securely fasten the tool, especially in shock mode. And the use of plastic for their manufacture often leads to breakage of cartridges.
The cam chuck is more reliable, and the parts used in it are made only of metal. To fasten the tool, you must use a special clamping key.

Ways to remove a keyless chuck from a drill or screwdriver

The chuck is threaded onto the axis and secured with a clamping screw.
The keyless chuck is removed according to the same algorithm as the cam chuck.
First, the locking screw is unscrewed clockwise. If there are turnkey flats on the shaft near the chuck, then putting the key into the grooves, holding any lever in the chuck, try to unscrew the chuck by turning it counterclockwise.
Installing a new cartridge occurs in the reverse order.

But you can repair the cartridge
In order to inspect the details of the chuck, it must be disassembled.
A proven and reliable method for disassembling the chuck of an electric drill is proposed.

Take a regular puncher, remove the boot from it and insert the adapter. The adapter can be made from a failed impact drill. The adapter is a drill shank with a cut off drilling part.
Put the cartridge on the adapter shaft and press it with a rubber shock absorber or a wooden board.
Before installing the chuck on the adapter, it is necessary to bring the cams inside the chuck until they are completely immersed.

After assembling the structure, turn on the puncher in impact mode. After 3 ... 5 seconds, the cartridge should figure it out.
Immediately it is necessary to mark the cams and places from the location with a different color.
Now you can proceed to the inspection and troubleshooting of the cartridge.
If necessary, the cams can be replaced with new ones. True, one cannot do without additional boring of cams on a lathe.
Other parts can be easily replaced if available.

But there are other mechanical problems.
There are cases when the failure of the electric drill is caused by the failure of the gearbox or bad job bearings.

2. The procedure for working with the gearbox of the electric drill
To get to the gearbox, you need to disassemble the plastic case of the electric drill.
After removing the housing cover, release the chuck shaft and remove it. A driven gear of a larger diameter is mounted on the shaft.
A small-diameter spiral drive gear is mounted on the motor shaft.
There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, most often leading to the failure of the drill. Everything happens because of its significant wear.
Specify the dimensions of the bushing and order the turner. Use bronze as a material, but caprolon is also acceptable.
When replacing the bushing in the gearbox, the bearings, their tightness and their packing with grease are necessarily checked.
If the gear teeth are worn out, they will have to be replaced. The teeth of the gears wear out when the support sleeve fails.
Most often, the driven gear of a larger diameter wears out. Its replacement is simple, you just need to remove the retaining ring and key.
The old gear must be removed from the chuck axis. You can use a puller, or you can just gently knock it down with a hammer, substituting wooden supports.

Electrical faults
Now let's try to consider the characteristic malfunctions of the electrical part of the drill.
Most often, the work of an electric drill is interrupted due to wear of the brushes.

1. Replacement of brushes in an electric drill
To replace the brushes, it is necessary to remove the side cover of the electric drill body by unscrewing the fixing screws. There must be at least 7 of them.
The housing is removed by carefully prying off its edges with a screwdriver.
Having opened access to the electric motor, you will see two boxes in which the brushes are installed.
In order to get the brushes, you need to release the boxes, bend the holders and take out the worn brush. Do the same with the second brush.
Install new brushes on the vacated places, wipe around the contact area with a clean cloth dipped in white spirit.

2. Repair of the power cord of the electric drill
One of the unpleasant malfunctions is the periodic stop of the electric drill during operation. Most often this happens due to an arbitrary power outage. And the thing is that when entering the body of the drill, the supply cable experiences various loads, which lead to a break in the wires.

To fix the problem, you need to remove one of the side covers of the case. Using a tester, check the integrity of the cable.
If damage is found at the point where the cable enters the case, but a broken piece is cut off from the cable, a piece of 20 cm of hard vinyl chloride tube is put on the cable and the cable is installed in place with subsequent connection.

To replace the button with the speed controller, it is enough to remove the housing cover, disconnect the wires from the controller. The new regulator is installed in the same place and connected according to the diagram. If there is no diagram, then before removing the old regulator, it is necessary to sketch the connection diagram.

3. Sparking appeared inside the case
The occurrence of sparking inside the case most often leads to an interturn short circuit of the armature windings.
The second cause of sparking is the contaminated surface of the collector lamellas.
Interturn short circuit can only be determined with a special device.
But the dirt from the collector part can be removed independently, using fine sandpaper. After stripping, it is necessary to carefully remove dust from the grooves between the contact plates, called lamellas. The best way to do this is with an old hacksaw blade. At the end of the work, the anchor must be checked with a PYA device.

Here, perhaps, are the main malfunctions of electric drills of any brand.

Among home craftsmen, two types of drill cartridges are most common - key (gear-crown) and quick-clamping (BZP). We will try to analyze the features of the operation of these particular cartridges in this article and comprehensively highlight all the main nuances and difficulties of working with them.

The most common for household drills and screwdrivers are gear-rim and quick-release chucks.

The main types of drill chucks

According to their design, they are divided into two main types:

• gear-crown chuck, the clamping of the tool shank in which is carried out using a special key;
• keyless chuck for a drill (BZP), in which the clamping sleeve is driven by its manual rotation.

clamping jaw chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to securely fix the tool, the diameter of the shank of which is in the range of 1–25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their relatively high cost.

The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern drill models is the keyless chuck (BZP). It only takes a few seconds to lock the tool in a chuck of the BZP category, and there is no need to use a special key. The clamping of the tool shank is carried out by manually rotating the adjusting sleeve, on the outer surface of which a corrugation is applied, which facilitates this procedure. To regulate the mechanical impact created on the tool shank, a special locking device is provided in this type of clamp.

The most significant disadvantages of the BZP include the fact that in cases where the elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not securely fix the shanks of large-diameter drills. This causes the tool to rotate during operation.

Compared to clamping devices of the BZP category, gear chucks for equipping a drill provide reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who often work with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant disadvantage of such devices is that the key with which they are activated is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after acquiring a drill, fix the key on the wire of the device with an insulating tape or a regular rope.

The mini-drill chuck mounted on compact drilling devices is also very popular. The latter are actively used by jewelers. The mini chuck belongs to the category of keyless chucks for a screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, made mainly of brass, is used to hold tools with a shank diameter in the range of 0.1–4.5 mm.

The design and features of the gear-crown chuck

The classic drill chuck is a collet or cam type clamping device. They can clamp not only various tools with a round shank, but also cylindrical workpieces for further processing. The main design elements of clamping jaw chucks are:

• cylindrical body;
• an adjusting ring or sleeve rotating on the outer surface of the housing;
• a cam mechanism or collet mounted in the inside of the device body.

The design of the cam (gear-ring) chuck with a key

In turn, the collet mechanism, the elements of which are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams, which, when the adjusting ring or sleeve rotates, simultaneously approach each other, thereby ensuring a reliable clamping of the tool shank. In the early models of chucks for mechanical drills, the cams of the collet converged due to the rotation of the adjusting wheel, now an adjusting sleeve is used for this.

On one side, drill chucks are installed on the shaft of the equipment used, and on the other, a tool is inserted into them, with which processing will be performed. Clamping jaw chucks are mainly used to hold the following tools in them:

• drills;
• cutters;
• taps with small diameter shanks.

How to remove a threaded chuck

The question of how to remove the cartridge from the drill, which is fixed on it with a threaded connection, arises among home craftsmen quite often. It is necessary to remove such a clamp, taking into account the fact that it is installed using a non-standard left-hand thread.

The threaded element of the clamping device is located in its inner part, so you must first expand the clamping jaws as much as possible, which will provide access to the fixing screw, which is unscrewed with a conventional Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck is simply twisted off their shaft without the above-described preparatory work.

The locking screw head can be Phillips, slotted, hex or even star

The screw with the left-hand thread, with which the threaded chuck is fixed to the drill, may wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can do the following:

• insert a Phillips screwdriver into the head of the chuck screw on the drill;
• with light blows of a hammer, deepen the screw into the threaded hole.

Such actions will not harm the fastening unit of the drill, but will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.

Replacing a threaded chuck with a drill can also be done with a 14 wrench, which greatly simplifies this process. In order not to make mistakes when you are about to disassemble a cartridge of this type, you can first get acquainted with the theoretical material on this topic and watch the corresponding video.

Replacing and disassembling a chuck on a drill

There is nothing complicated about how to replace a worn cartridge with a drill. To do this, it is enough to purchase the appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install a new one on it. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that two types of cartridges can be installed on both a conventional and a mini-drill:

• with conical connection;
• threaded.

Cartridges, for which a thread is used for installation on a drill, are removed and fixed according to the above scheme. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is threaded, it is also important to take into account the marking that is necessarily applied to it. Such clamping chucks can be marked as follows:

• 1.5–13 M12x1.25;
• 1.5-13 1/2 - 20UNF.

The interval 1.5–13, present in the designation data, indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the installed cutting tool. The rules for replacing a chuck with a drill suggest that the new clamping device must have a marking that is completely identical to the designation of the old one.

Asking how to replace cone chuck on a drill, everything is somewhat simpler. Different markings can also be applied to devices of this type, namely:

To replace a cartridge of this type with a drill, you just need to select a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seat into the conical hole of the drilling equipment. Navigating in such a marking is quite simple: the letter “B” means that this is a cone-type cartridge, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the mounting hole.

Removing a cone-type chuck from a drill is just as easy as installing it. In order to perform this procedure, you simply need to knock the clamping device out of the drill hole, for which a conventional hammer is used. You can also get acquainted with the details of installing and removing the cone chuck of an electric drill by watching the corresponding video.

Drill in the house is necessary. This is one of the most commonly used tools that you can’t do without if you need to make repairs or do something with your own hands. As long as the drill is working, everything is going well. Suddenly something breaks down, and the question immediately arises of how to remove the cartridge from the drill.

This seems like an elementary task. But if a person is used to the fact that the drill always works well, then this develops into a problem. It turns out that in order to decide how to remove the cartridge from the drill, you need to find out how it is attached to the shaft, and only then carry out certain work.

Reasons for withdrawal

In the vast majority of types of drills, a chuck based on the cam principle of operation is used to mount the drill. The cutting tool in the elements of this type is firmly fixed when 3-4 cams approach, which have a conical part and move in the longitudinal direction to each other, due to the rotation of the control sleeve along their cone. The adjustment sleeve is rotated manually (quick-clamping) or with a special key (regular or key chuck).

During the operation of an electrical device, there are times when the question arises of how to remove the cartridge from the drill. So, sometimes you have to deal with the fact that the beating of the drill appears. In this case, the cause may be a shift in the center of the drill attachment due to wear on the cams. To repair the drill, it is necessary to remove the chuck from the shaft. You will also have to remove it if the question of how to remove the drill is not resolved, in the case when it is jammed. The reason may be damage to the cams or wear of the gearing of the adjusting sleeve. The drill can only be removed after disassembling the chuck.

In addition, you will have to unscrew the cartridge if it starts to scroll relative to the drill shaft. The reason may be damage to the mounting thread or subsidence of the landing cone. Mechanical damage can force you to change it. Finally, the decision to simply supply a more versatile mechanism may result in a new cartridge being replaced.

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Existing types of fastening

The cartridge on the shaft of any drill, screwdriver or puncher is attached in two ways - using a threaded connection or on a cone. A variation of the threaded connection is the use of an additional locking screw.

Threaded fastening means that an identical thread is made on the drill shaft and on the internal channel - metric or inch. Therefore, in this case, during the repair, the question is how to unscrew the cartridge. The type of thread and its main parameters are marked on the body. For example, the designation 1.5-15M13x1.2 is stamped on the case, which means the following:

• 1.5 and 15 - the minimum and maximum diameter of the drill shank in mm;
• M13 - metric thread with a diameter of 13 mm;
• 1.2 - thread pitch.

If an inch thread is used, then the designation UNF is entered, and the diameter is indicated in inches (for example, 1/2). When replacing the cartridge, be sure to check the conformity of the marking with the dimensions of the mount. Modern drills mostly have inch threads, which meet international standards and expand interchangeability.

For reliable fastening, a locking screw is installed on the shaft inside the device. This screw has a left-hand thread, i.e. in order to unscrew it, you need to turn it clockwise.

The second way to mount the chuck on the drill shaft is based on the use of a Morse taper. In this case, the end of the motor shaft is made in the form of a cone. The inner channel from the lower end has a similar conical part. The cartridge is simply pushed onto the cone of the shaft with force. The marking of such elements has several meanings: B10, B12, B16 and B18, where B means the use of a Morse taper, and the numbers are the maximum diameter of the drill shank that can be fixed in this chuck. This method of fastening is quite common, especially in screwdrivers.

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Extraction from a threaded connection

The question of how to remove the chuck connected by a threaded connection to the main shaft of the drill is solved in the following order. First, the internal fixing element in the form of a screw with a left-hand thread is unscrewed (it is unscrewed the other way around, i.e. clockwise) using a Phillips screwdriver. Then unscrew the cartridge counterclockwise. As a rule, it is tightly twisted. Therefore, it is necessary to fix the drill shaft in a vise. It is advisable to unscrew the cartridge using a gas (plumbing) key. If you also need to remove a firmly seated drill, then the cams, together with the drill, are knocked out by applying light blows from above.

Installing a new element is carried out in the reverse order. The cartridge is twisted clockwise by hands, while the drill shaft is fixed with one hand. Then the internal locking screw is twisted counterclockwise.

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Dismantling the cone specimen

Removing a chuck mounted on a shaft cone is usually not difficult. You can use a special tool to remove the bearings. But the easiest way is the following. The drill is installed vertically, drill down. With light hammer blows, evenly over the entire surface, the cartridge is knocked out of engagement. If necessary, after removal, the surface of both cones is ground. A new element is installed with light blows of a mallet on top of the cartridge.

Sometimes a puncher comes with a tool for removing such a cartridge, in which case the task is even more simplified.

The drill is one of the most important tools in the house. Sometimes the question arises of how to remove the cartridge from the drill. Such a problem appears when the tool fails or when repair and restoration work is carried out with the unit. This task is simple enough that any tech-savvy person can easily do it, but it can be a problem for a homeowner who has never done it. In order to remove the cartridge from the drill, you need to study the principles of fastening this component of the device well and only then proceed with the removal.

To disassemble the tool, you need to prepare the following tools:

• vise;
• a hammer;
• mallet;
• keys;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• fine sandpaper;
• file.

If the sequence is followed, dismantling is not a problem.

Reasons leading to the need to dismantle the drill chuck

Most hand drills produced today by manufacturers use a chuck to mount a working tool, the principle of operation of which is based on the use of a cam mechanism. Fixation of the working tool is carried out by clamping it between 3-4 cams approaching each other. The cams have a conical part and are able to move in the longitudinal direction by turning the regulating special sleeve on the drill clamping device. In a keyless type of cartridge, the sleeve is rotated by hand, and in a conventional cartridge, a special key is used for this purpose.

During the operation of the drill, situations arise when it is necessary to change the cartridge, for example, in the event of a beating of the working tool. Most often, this malfunction occurs as a result of a shift in the center of the drill attachment, which appears due to the intense wear of the cams. In order to carry out repair work in such a situation, it is required to dismantle the cartridge from the device. Sometimes you have to remove the chuck in order to remove a jammed drill from it. Jamming can be caused by sudden damage to the jaws of the clamping mechanism. In addition, disassembly and removal of the tool holder is required if excessive gearing wear on the adjusting sleeve is detected. In some cases, in the process of working with a drill, a situation arises in which the chuck rotates relative to the drill shaft, which also requires repairs, which will include dismantling the chuck.

Sometimes the replacement of the clamping device is carried out at the initiative of the owner of the tool, if it is planned to install a more versatile unit on the drill.

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Types of fastening the clamping device to the drill

The clamping device can be attached to the drill shaft in two ways:

• using a threaded connection;
• with a cone connection.

Another type of threaded connection is the use of an additional locking screw in the design, which ensures reliable fixation.

Threaded fastening assumes that the shaft of the drill and the channel of the clamping device have identical threads, with which they are connected. With this type of connection, the question arises of how this clamping device can be dismantled. In the manufacture of drills and clamping devices, metric and inch threads are used for them. The type of thread used in the device and its dimension are indicated on the body of the clamping device. For example, the inscription "1.5-15 M13x1.2", stamped on the cartridge, may mean the following:

• 1.5 and 15 - numbers indicating the minimum and maximum diameters of the drill shanks with which the clamping device can work;
• M13 - letters and numbers indicating a metric thread having a diameter of 13 mm;
• 1,2 - figures characterizing the thread pitch.

When using an inch type of thread, the abbreviation UNF is used, and the dimension is indicated in inches. Before removing the chuck from the drill, you should check that the marking of the new clamping device matches the chuck that was previously used in the design of the drill.

Modern tool models produced by manufacturers most often have an inch thread. The manufacture of clamping devices with the presence of an inch thread allows you to expand the possibilities of interchangeability.

A locking screw is provided on the shaft of the device to ensure a more reliable fastening of the clamping device. The screw has a left-hand thread, so if you need to unscrew it, rotate it clockwise.

The second method of fastening the clamping device is based on the use of a Morse taper. The shaft of the device is made in the form of a cone, the clamping device has the same taper of the inner channel. Fixing the clamping device on the shaft is carried out as a result of force fitting the device onto the device motor shaft. The marking of such clamping devices is B10, B12, B16, B18. The letter means the marking of the cone, and the number means the diameter of the shank of the working tool.

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Disassembly of threaded and conical connections

The removal of the device for clamping working tools mounted on a threaded connection is carried out in a certain sequence.

At the first stage, the internal fixing element, which looks like a screw, is unscrewed. This screw has a left hand thread. Unscrewing is carried out using a Phillips screwdriver. After unscrewing the fixing screw, the unit designed to fix the working tool is unscrewed. Unscrewing the unit is carried out in a counterclockwise direction. When dismantling, it is recommended to fix the drill in a vice, since the device is twisted, as a rule, very tightly. To unscrew this structural element of the drill, use a gas wrench. If it is necessary to extract the working tool, light blows are applied to the device from above.

Installation of a new device is carried out in the reverse order. When winding the element, the tool shaft should be rigidly fixed, excluding its rotation. After screwing the device, the fixing screw is installed.

The dismantling of the conical structural element does not cause difficulties. You can use a tool to remove the bearings. The easiest way to work is as follows. Using a light hammer, the structural element is knocked out of engagement. Installation of a new fixture is carried out with the help of light blows on the element to be installed.

Home craftsmen most often use two types of chucks for electric drills: key and quick-clamping. The chuck is one of the main components of the drill mechanism. Through him rotary motion is transmitted to the working tool from the electric motor. And also the clamp fixes the drill so that during the drilling process maximum accuracy and secure fastening and it was possible to quickly replace the cartridge with a drill.

The tool may malfunction during prolonged use. Therefore, you need to be able to remove the cartridge from the drill and change it before starting work. With such knowledge, even a beginner will not be confused. If suddenly there is a problem with the keyless chuck, he will be able to unscrew it and replace it.

Main types of clamps

There are two main types of drill clamps:

• Toothed crown. The shank is clamped with a special key.
• Quick release. The clamping sleeve is actuated by manual rotation.

Cam chucks, which are installed on modern drills, allow reliable fixation of the device with a shank diameter of 1–25 mm. A device of this type has practically no drawbacks, of which the most significant is a rather high price.

The most popular clamping device installed on modern drills is the BZP, that is, the keyless chuck. It takes a few seconds to fix the tool in the BZP, and a special key is not needed. The shank is clamped by manual rotation of the adjusting sleeve, on the outer surface of which there is a corrugation that facilitates winding. To adjust the mechanical impact on the tool shank, a locking device is provided in this type of clamp.

The serious disadvantages of the BZP include:

• Rapid wear of its elements.
• Insufficiently reliable fixation of the shanks of drills with a large diameter, as a result of which the tool rotates during operation.

But gear-crown products provide reliable fixation. The only significant disadvantage of these devices is that they require a key that is easy to lose. However, you can save yourself from this problem by fixing this part on the drill wire with electrical tape or rope.

A very popular clamp for a mini drill, which is mounted on compact drilling devices. Mini drills are preferred by master jewelers. The mini-chuck is included in the quick-release category. It is made mainly of brass and is used to fix tools with a shank diameter of 0.1–4.5 mm.

gear-crowned

Classic, refers to clamping devices of the cam or collet type. They clamp tools with a round shank and cylindrical workpieces for further processing. The main elements of clamping cam clamps are as follows:

• Cylindrical body.
• An adjusting ring or sleeve that rotates on the outer surface of the housing.
• Collet or cam mechanism in the inside of the housing.

The material for the manufacture of the elements of the collet mechanism is hardened steel, and the mechanism consists of three identical cams that approach each other when the sleeve or adjusting ring rotates, ensuring the reliability of the shank clamp. In the first models, the cams converged due to the rotation of the adjusting wheel, but now this role belongs to the adjusting sleeve.

The clamps are mounted on one side of the drill shaft, and on the other side a tool is inserted into them, with the help of which the work is performed. Clamping jaw chucks mainly are used to fix them:

• cutters;
• drill;
• taps with small diameter shanks.

How to disassemble the cartridge

Clamp with threaded connection is removed taking into account the left-hand thread.

The threaded element is located in the inner part of the device, in connection with which, at first, the clamping jaws are maximally extended, which provides access to the fixing screw, which is unscrewed with a conventional Phillips screwdriver. In drills without this screw, the chuck is twisted off the shaft without the preparatory work described above.

The screw with a left-hand thread, which secures the threaded chuck, may wear out in the future. To restore connection reliability, it is recommended to do the following:

• insert a Phillips screwdriver into the head of the clamp screw;
• With a hammer, lightly deepen the screw into the threaded hole.

These actions will not lead to damage to the fastening unit of the drill and will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and more reliably.

Replacing the threaded chuck can be done with a key of 14. In order to avoid making mistakes, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the theoretical material and watch the corresponding video.

To replace a worn cartridge the old clamping device is removed from the drill and a new one is installed. Both regular and mini-drills are equipped with threaded and conical chucks.

When replacing on drills with a thread, it is important to consider the marking that looks like this:

• 1.5-13 M 12 × 1.25;
• 1.5-13 ½ - 20 UNF.

The interval 1.5−13 indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool. The new clamping device must be identical to the old marking.

cone connection

In the case of a cone chuck replacement is easier. Devices of this type may have the following markings: В 10; AT 12; At 16; At 18.

The drill kit includes a special device for removing cartridges, however, experienced craftsmen simply turn the drill down with a drill, fix it and, applying uniform hammer blows to back side, knocked out from the shaft.

After dismantling, the conical surfaces are polished with an emery cloth. If there are scratches on the surface, they are removed with a file. A new cartridge is installed in place by blows of a mallet, sitting tightly at the junction.

To remove a drill or other attachment, which is stuck in the chuck, requires skills and experience in handling bench tools. If the clamp fails, it is replaced.

If you are interested in how to remove the cartridge from the Interskol drill, read the following information. The clamp is on an inch right-hand thread, but thanks to the reverse, it is possible to fix it inside the product with a screw with a left-hand thread. The cams are bred, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted, a screw with a left-hand thread is unscrewed. Since they are tightened strongly, problems are possible. Don't rip the slots! Then try to unscrew with a gas wrench, but with the gearbox switched to low speed.

Problems with the clamping mechanism

Before starting work, read the instructions for working with the tool. This will help you avoid many problems. Remember that the drill is not used for milling, as the clamp cannot withstand such a side load. Correctly select the drill, pay attention to its sharpening, mark the center of drilling (using a core).

Sometimes when dismantling, the clamp jams. If so, the device is disassembled and completely cleaned and lubricated. Especially often this happens after drilling holes in the ceiling, as rubbish pours into the clamp. If the clamp flies, increase the tension in the conical connection. To do this, the assembly is heated to 110º in the oven, and then installed on a cold seat. It is also possible that the beating occurs due to uneven destruction of the cams or wear of the cone base. Here you need to replace the elements.

When disassembling the clamp, consider its type. After completing the required procedures, reassemble in reverse order.