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Why are amateur shots generally so weak? First of all, because the average photographer is not aware of their weakness. This is not scary if the snapshot function is purely protocol. Such photographs will be valuable for their author, his relatives and friends as a memory of some big or small event: a birthday, a picnic, a well-spent vacation. A misfortune happens when a person, having taken a camera in his hands, realizes himself as a creator and begins to create uncontrollably, not allowing even a shadow of doubt in his own talent and being unshakably sure that an excess of creative energy easily compensates for the superficiality of knowledge and a careless attitude to work. That is, let him create for his own health, but he also puts it all on the Internet, insistently demanding attention and compliments. Having received them, he begins to skid, and if he does not receive them, he is offended.
It is much better when a novice photographer still realizes that something is missing in his pictures. He's already on the right track. You just need to correctly answer yourself the question: “What is wrong with my photographs?”. Once you find the answer, you will know what to do next.
Why are my pictures bad? Maybe the camera is to blame? Many come to this conclusion. One has only to buy a camera more expensive, and the pictures will shine. Did not help? We need a new lens - the old one is not sharp enough, not fast enough, not prestigious enough, after all. More stable tripod? more powerful flash? some exotic filter?.. It's all nonsense. The camera is just a tool in your hands. Granted, professional equipment makes life easier by allowing the experienced photographer to work faster and in a wider range of situations, but it fails to make up for the lack of imagination. If a person fails to take a beautiful photo with a soap dish, none of the most perfect professional camera won't help him.
If my equipment has nothing to do with it, then maybe there is simply nothing beautiful around me, and that’s why the pictures are not good? Ah, if I only lived in some picturesque reserve, or in an ancient city, or had a spacious studio besieged by figured fashion models ... Nonsense! How many beautiful and unusual photographs are taken in the slums and backyards, and how many uniformly dull photographs are brought annually by tourists from the most beautiful places! If I cannot see beauty, it is only because of my narrow horizons and lack of curiosity. If you learn to see and not just look, you will be amazed at the abundance of photogenic situations scattered around literally every step.
No matter how hard we try to justify our own failures in outside world, the true cause of failure is almost always ourselves. The most difficult thing is to realize this unpleasant fact. It is unpleasant because it hurts our pride, but at the same time it unties our hands. Agree that it is not always possible to change the world to please your desires, but you can always change yourself. If I don't know how to do something, I can learn; if I'm weak, I can become stronger. The presence of will is the only condition in order to make oneself better.
Photo complexity
The problem with photography is its deceptive simplicity. If half a century ago the photographer had to know what shutter speed, aperture, film speed, focusing, etc. are, then at present, technological progress has made it possible to almost completely automate the shooting process. Even a child can handle a modern digital camera, not to mention the camera built into a mobile phone. It never occurs to anyone that photography needs to be learned. And what exactly is there to learn? Point & Shoot - point and shoot!
Painting does not seem so simple to anyone. Although what is so difficult about it? Dip the brush into the paint and smear it on the canvas! Easily? Easily. And for some reason, not everyone can paint pictures.
Maybe the writers live more freely? After all, nowadays any person with a keyboard is already a writer (and this site is proof of that). What could be easier? When you press the buttons, letters appear on the screen. But, not everyone is able to sit down and write "War and Peace". By the way, Lev Nikolaevich didn’t even have a keyboard.
Let's get back to photography. Believe me, the skills of handling the camera directly are the simplest things that a good photographer should be able to do. The ability to see light, build a composition, express your thoughts and emotions through photography - that's what is really difficult to learn. And you need to study, and modern automated cameras - great to help. They pretty much free you from the menial work like exposure or focusing, allowing you to focus entirely on your creativity.
Technique
Despite advances in photography automation, cameras still require people to point them at the object being photographed and press the buttons. The camera is just a tool, and its main task is not to interfere with your work. The less time you devote to fussing with the equipment, the more time you will have directly to shoot.
In order to start learning photography, the simplest camera will be enough for you. Study it to perfection, every nuance, all strong and weak sides this particular model. You must be able to handle your equipment almost blindly; know when you can safely rely on automation, and when it is worth intervening in its work; know in what situations the exposure meter is wrong and how to deal with it; know how to use autofocus and white balance in difficult and unusual conditions. Don't be lazy to practice. Having subjugated the camera, you can forget about it. It will become a continuation of your thought and stop getting in the way.
The ability to see
We get so used to the world we live in that we stop noticing its beauty. We take it for granted, for granted. People are too lazy to interrupt their meal and turn their heads to watch the sunset. Eka unseen - sunset! Because it happens every day! And after seeing a photograph of that same sunset after a while, they exclaim: “What a beauty! Maybe it's photoshop? Do such colors exist in nature? There are. There are also not so. You just need to be able to be at the right time in the right place. The more conscientiously you are engaged in the search for subjects for shooting, the more photographic opportunities open up in front of you. Search everywhere. Even an old shoe can be photogenic.
Visiting beautiful and unusual places not necessary, but very useful, as it spurs creative thought and awakens a sense of beauty from sleep. Keep that feeling awake and you'll find an abyss of photographic subject matter in any setting.
However, it is not enough for a photographer to simply see beauty and be able to admire it - he must be able to see “photographically”, being aware of how the scene he likes will be seen and interpreted by the camera. Like any artist, he must be aware of the peculiarities of his tools, and, most importantly, of the limitations that they impose on him. Some things, in principle, cannot be photographed, others can, but the result will disappoint you, due to the fact that the camera sees the world far from the way we see it. Over time, you will learn to accurately distinguish situations when shooting is possible, when it is impossible at all, and when it is possible with certain tricks. If weather, lighting or some other factors prevent you from photographing a scene you like, consider: what can be done about this? Sometimes a flash or a primitive reflector can solve the problem. Sometimes you need to be a little patient, waiting for the sun to peek through the clouds, or for the tourists to stop crowding in front of an old building. Sometimes it pays to return at a different time of day or even a different time of the year. If you are in this moment If you are not working on a specific order, you should not rush. Always try to imagine how and when you can capture the subject in the most expressive way.
Don't force yourself to take off beautiful things when they don't show up. Such pictures will have only protocol value. Even worse, ugly photos of beautiful things make you unwittingly disappointed in both the subject and your own photographic abilities. Bruce Barnbaum writes that good memories are better than bad photographs. When I travel with non-photographers, I am regularly asked to click on something just to remember. What will you do here? Usually I try to evade so as not to instill bad habits in myself, although, I admit, there are moments that are really worth capturing, even if not in the most artistic way.
Area of interest
You must be deeply interested in the subject. Without it, your pictures will remain lifeless. If you, the photographer, are not interested in the subject, how can you hope that it will be of any interest to the viewer? Passion breeds passion. Your interest in the subject, your curiosity and passion in the brightest way are reflected in your work and make the viewer empathize with your passion.
Imagine a person with a passion for something. Anything, for example, historical reconstruction. Ask him to tell you something about his passion, and he will be unstoppable. He will be able to talk for hours about the features of clothing, weapons, household items, about the intricacies of their manufacture, about the traditions and customs of the era that interests him. Now try asking him about something that is outside his area of interest, let it be, say, aircraft engineering, and most likely he will not be able to distinguish flaps from ailerons, if at all he wants to keep the conversation on this topic far from him.
Yes, many people are not shy about talking about things that they do not understand and are not interested in, but listening to them is truly tiring, and it is just as tiring to look at the pictures they have taken.
Perhaps you are interested in birds, their habits, their life in natural natural conditions. In this case, you will not be too lazy to get up before dawn and sit in the swamp for half a day, waiting for a unique shot.
Not birds, but insects? Well, macro photography is technically challenging, but extremely exciting.
A good landscape painter will rarely be good as a sports reporter. And vice versa. Differences in character lead to differences in inclinations. Consider: what are you inclined towards?
Don't get locked into one subject. Try different genres, and even better, invent new ones until you find a path that allows you to express yourself to the fullest.
Perhaps you are one of the lucky minority of people who genuinely love their job and look at it as interesting hobby, for which, moreover, they also pay. If this is about you, then in principle you should not part with the camera. A matter to which you devote a large amount of time, and in which you are no doubt well versed, can carry an innumerable number of photographic subjects.
By the way, if you do not like your job, then this clearly signals that it is time for you to change something in your life.
self-expression
Photography, like other fine arts, is a means of communication. Communication between the artist and the viewer. Images that faithfully reproduce reality, but at the same time do not bear the imprint of the author's personality, are not able to have any significant emotional impact on the viewer. A simple example is a photo for documents. Even if such pictures are taken not with the help of a photo booth, but by a live photographer, his work differs little from the work of an automatic machine. A photo on documents does not reflect the personality of the person being photographed, nor the attitude of the photographer towards him. More precisely, his attitude is indifferent, as a result of which, despite the mechanical realism of the picture, it is still devoid of artistic realism, and the person looks different from himself in it. However, in this area, no one requires creativity, which is also true for scientific and technical surveys, where excessive creativity can lead to inaccurate experimental data. Here photography acts as a craft, pursuing purely applied goals.
Another thing is artistic photography, i.e. photography aimed at satisfying primarily aesthetic needs. In this case, photography acts as an intermediary between the author and the viewer, and if the photographer does not put any meaning into his works, then is there any doubt that the viewer will most likely consider them absolutely meaningless?
This applies even to such seemingly practical areas of photography as photojournalism or, say, commercial product photography. What kind of creativity is there? However, a good photographer will try in the first case not only to capture and capture the tense moment of any event, but will do it in such a way as to effectively show all its tension and drama, and in the second case, he will shoot the advertised product not only reliably, but also attractively for potential buyer.
Before you take another shot, think: what exactly interested you in the subject being shot? what is unusual about it? what are its most characteristic features? Try to emphasize the most significant details and, if possible, exclude everything from the frame that is not related to the core idea. In order to convey to the viewer your attitude to the subject, you must form this attitude, if not in verbal form, then at least in the form of a persistent sensation.
Do not try to portray the subject impartially - you still won't succeed. Impartiality means a lack of interest in the subject, which means that your picture will be extremely uninteresting, even if it is technically flawless.
Show the subject as it is. you you see him. If you have something to say, say it loudly, clearly and concisely. Only in this way can your pictures become a link between you and another person.
Enthusiasm
Enthusiasm is the basis of success. No creative activity is possible without enthusiasm. Nothing can replace it. It is much more important than any knowledge and experience, since it itself acquires both experience and knowledge for a person. Knowledge and experience without enthusiasm are absolutely powerless.
Faded enthusiasm is what doomed my scientific career. Fortunately, I realized in time that I was not doing my job. Many do not understand this, or maybe they are simply afraid to admit their mistake, stubbornly continuing to do someone else's work. The effectiveness of work done without enthusiasm is negligible.
What is enthusiasm? I understand it not just as a sense of purpose, but as an emotional lift, inspiration, aimed at achieving the goal.
When the scene being filmed captures me, I feel an extraordinary surge of strength, the mobilization of all mental and physiological resources. Enthusiasm is an incredible increase in performance, motivating you to continue working, despite laziness and fatigue. Enthusiasm makes me get up in the dark, go to the field and freeze there, waiting for the dawn. Being emotionally involved in the process of shooting, I apply all my skills to get a harmoniously composed and flawlessly exposed frame. In search of the optimal shooting point, I can climb a dangerous ledge at the risk of my life, and a few hours later, seeing the same scene in an ordinary, non-photogenic light, I will be sincerely surprised: how did I even have the courage to climb such a steep? Together with the light, the magic went away, and my fear of heights is with me again.
Enthusiasm cannot be forced, but it can be lured. The more time you spend doing what you love, the harder you look for new ones. creative ways, the more chances you have to ride Pegasus.
Go to unusual places more often beautiful places that stimulate your imagination. Learn to see the hidden beauty in everyday things that surround you all the time. Inspiration doesn't come to the lazy. Intuitive insight, understanding how exactly you can get a beautiful shot, as a rule, is preceded by long and hard work.
Do not force yourself to remove objects that do not touch you. Direct your energy to find those things that are worth shooting and that can awaken your imagination.
Criticism
The harshest critic of your work should be yourself. Shoot with passion - judge impartially. Treat your pictures as if they were taken by a complete stranger. Abstract yourself as the author. Will your photo be perceived by the viewer the way you would like it to be? Are you too lenient on a bad shot for emotional reasons? I do not argue that a technically poor-quality or artistically untenable photograph can be dear to you as a memory. Well, he has a right to exist, but be prepared for the fact that other people may not share your sentiments. You may have put a lot of work into some picture, and therefore it is valuable to you, but the viewer does not know this! For him, only the end result matters, regardless of how much effort was expended to achieve it and what equipment was used. Be objective and show others only your best work. Let there be few of them at first, but if you are demanding of yourself, your level will inevitably rise.
It's nice when relatives and friends praise you, but their opinion is rarely impartial. The sympathy experienced by someone personally for you will inevitably spread to your works. In addition, many people evaluate photographs primarily on the basis of “similar / unlike”. It looks like it's beautiful. This approach is justified to some extent for memorable, documentary shots, where the subject matter is important in itself, but is absolutely unacceptable in the field of fine art, where the author's subjective vision dominates the subject.
Avoid seeking advice from photo enthusiasts, engineers and programmers. There are plenty of talented photographers among them, but for the most part, people with technical interests unjustifiably overestimate the role of equipment in creating good photographs. They will explain to you that your work is weak because you have a flawed, outdated camera with a low dynamic range and terribly low resolution; your lens has a ridiculous aperture and, due to the lack of elements from super-ultra-low dispersion fluorite, in principle, is not capable of providing any acceptable sharpness. If you shoot with a compact camera, you will be advised to buy a professional DSLR. Do you have a latest full frame DSLR? She belongs in the trash! Real professional uses only medium format! Well, and so on. Technofetishism is practically incurable.
Trust me, your camera is perfect. No matter how primitive it may be, its capabilities are enough to create a masterpiece.
How to distinguish a techno-fetishist from a photographer who is simply well versed in photographic equipment? Elementary. The photographer takes photos. When someone tries to impress you with their knowledge of materiel, take a look at their work. If his knowledge does not allow him to get beautiful shots, then what is the use of such knowledge? The most valuable knowledge is acquired in the field, personal experience shooting, and not at all on web forums.
Learn only from those photographers whose skills are confirmed by their works. If you like someone's pictures and would like to do just as well, then you have a lot to learn from their author. If the photos of some authoritative Internet master do not impress you, then why waste time on him?
The best critics for you will be people of art. Not necessarily photographers. Painters, graphic artists and other artists understand the fundamental issues of lighting and composition much better than the regulars of photo forums. Chat with artists, read theory books visual arts, sign up for a drawing course, eventually, and you will begin to understand what exactly your pictures are missing.
Discipline
Don't shoot mindlessly. Although your emotional reaction to the scene may be spontaneous, it should lead to a non-spontaneous act of filming that requires attention and precision. Carelessness in work leads to the most annoying disappointments, when a good, in general, frame turns out to be, upon subsequent study, hopelessly damaged due to an autofocus miss, a camera shake during exposure, or some other oversight not noticed in time. And it's not always possible to go back and reshoot.
That is why regular practice is needed so that at a crucial moment you do not start frantically remembering where the exposure compensation button is located on your camera or how to turn on the flash?
So, what should you pay special attention to?
Before leaving home:
- Is there enough space on the memory card?
- Is the battery charged and is it in its place?
- Have you forgotten the accessories that you plan to use during the photo session (additional lenses, filters, flashes, tripod, etc.)?
Before you start filming:
- What do you see and feel? What got you interested? What is the subject?
- What specifically do you want to say about the subject? What is the most significant in it, and how can it be emphasized?
- Is the light good? It's amazing how often lighting is completely ignored by amateur photographers! Meanwhile, the light determines the whole structure of the future photography. It is very important.
Just before releasing the shutter:
- Is the horizon blocked?
- Are there any foreign objects in the frame? Most often they are found on the periphery, so remember to control the entire field of the viewfinder. ? When shooting in RAW, this is not important.
- Are you satisfied with the sharpness of the image? If not, what is the reason for the blur?
If you are unhappy with something, then make the appropriate corrections and take another shot. Keep shooting until you get the best result.
Don't forget to delete bad shots and sighting shots as soon as possible. They take up extra space, and, much worse, make it difficult to sort and catalog your pictures later.
When you return home, take your time to review the remaining material and delete most of it without regret. Leave only good shots, even if there are only a couple of them for two or three hundred. The sooner you get out of your marriage, the better. By delaying this process, you become emotionally attached to unsuccessful works, and it will be increasingly difficult for you to part with them, although they do not cease to be unsuccessful.
Protocol photographs stand apart, which may not shine from an artistic point of view, but should serve as documentary evidence of important events for you. What can I say? Take the trouble to remove at least the most rude and obvious marriage. Pity the aesthetic feelings of those people to whom you will show your albums.
Like any other art, photography is quite difficult, but the joy that creativity brings more than compensates for all the difficulties.
Shoot more, shoot meaningfully, be strict with yourself and your work. Keep your eyes and mind open. Never get tired of studying - only in this way you can create something worthy of attention.
Thank you for your attention!
Vasily A.
post scriptum
If the article turned out to be useful and informative for you, you can kindly support the project by contributing to its development. If you did not like the article, but you have thoughts on how to make it better, your criticism will be accepted with no less gratitude.
Do not forget that this article is subject to copyright. Reprinting and quoting are permissible provided there is a valid link to the original source, and the text used must not be distorted or modified in any way.
How to learn to use a SLR?
If you've bought yourself a DSLR and, after unpacking it from the box, are intimidated by the number of buttons and dials and the thickness of the manual, you might be tempted to put the manual on the shelf, switch the camera to "Auto" mode, and start shooting. This might be a good thing for someone, but only until you want to have full creative control over the camera that inspired you to get a DSLR in the first place, but where do you start?
If you consider yourself a beginner who isn't sure how to get the most out of your camera, this post is for you. It is intended to be concise, taking you the longest way out of the store and setting the camera to "Auto" until you have full control of your reflex camera. It is not meant to replace your camera's manual, as it won't explain every control option in detail, but will provide enough basics to get you in control of your camera and give you starting points to get back to reading your DSLR's manual.
Topics covered in this article:
This should be more than enough to get you started on your journey. So, let's begin…
The best place to start is by getting to know shooting modes.
1.Shooting modes
Shooting modes can most likely be found on a dial labeled with "Auto, Av, Tv, P, M" icons and possibly more. The choice of shooting mode will determine how your camera behaves when you press the shutter, for example, when you select "Auto", the camera will determine everything related to exposure, including aperture and shutter speed. Other modes, "Av, Tv, P, M", exist to give you control over the shooting process:
Don't worry if your mode dial looks a little different, different manufacturers use different abbreviations for shooting modes. Your mode dial may have the letters "A, S, P, M" (instead of Av, Tv, P, M), but they all function the same way. Below I have given an explanation of the abbreviation of each mode.
Aperture priority (Av or A)
Aperture priority can be thought of as a "semi-automatic" shooting mode. When you select this option, you, as the photographer, set the aperture and the camera will automatically select the shutter speed.
So what is aperture and when do you want to be able to control it?
Aperture, or aperture, is the size of the opening in the lens through which light can pass whenever the shutter is open—the larger the opening, the more light passes through.
Aperture is measured in exposure stops and is typically expressed as a ratio to the f-number, such as f/2.0, f/2.8, f/4.0, f/5.6, f/8.0, etc., which is the ratio of the focal length to lens aperture diameter. Thus, a larger aperture (wide-open aperture) has a smaller denominator value (e.g. f/2.0) and a smaller aperture (narrow aperture) has more in the denominator (eg f/22). Lowering the aperture by one stop, such as from f/2.0 to f2.8 or from 5.6 to f/8.0, halves the amount of light entering the camera.
Aperture is one of the most important aspects of photography as it directly affects depth of field - that is, the amount of image that is in focus. Large depth of field, which is achieved through the use of a small aperture ( great importance denominator) would mean that a large distance within the scene is in focus, such as the foreground and landscape below.
The landscape was shot at f/13 to give it more depth of field, ensuring everything from the grass in the foreground to the mountains is sharp.
Whereas a shallow depth of field (achieved by using a large aperture (small denominator values)) will produce an image where only the subject is in focus and the background is blurry and out of focus. This is often used when shooting portraits or wildlife, such as the one below, to isolate the subject from the background: A large f/4.5 aperture was used to capture this water vole with a soft, blurred background.
So, when using aperture priority mode, you can have complete control over your depth of field while the camera takes care of the rest.
Shutter priority (Tv or S)
Similar to aperture priority mode, this is another "semi-automatic" shooting mode, only in this case, you, as the photographer, set the shutter speed, and the camera takes care of the aperture. Shutter speed, measured in seconds (or more often fractions of a second), is the amount of time the shutter remains open while taking a photo. The longer the shutter is left open, the more light passes through the lens to the sensor to be captured by the camera for a future shot.
You should choose a fast shutter speed if you want to freeze a fast moving object like sports shooting, wildlife movement like in the picture below:
Highly fast speed a shutter speed of 1/4000 sec was used to freeze the movement of this black grouse in flight
You should use slow shutter speeds if you want a moving subject to appear blurry, such as water rushing over a waterfall (longer shutter speeds will require you to put your camera on a tripod to keep the camera steady while the shutter is open):
To capture the movement of the waves, and to make the water soft and milky in texture, a shutter speed of 6 seconds was used here.
So while you're worrying about what shutter speed you need for a given photo, the camera will figure out the appropriate aperture needed to get the right exposure.
Aperture or shutter priority shooting modes are semi-automatic, which means some may ridicule you for using them because they are not fully manual, however they are incredibly useful shooting modes and can give you enough creative control to shoot scenes the way you do. imagine them.
Program (P)
Program mode is almost halfway between semi-automatic aperture/shutter priority and full manual control. In program mode, you can set either aperture or shutter speed and the camera will maintain the correct exposure by adjusting the appropriate other value, meaning as soon as you change the aperture, the shutter speed will automatically change, and vice versa. This gives you more freedom than using either Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority without switching between shooting modes.
Manual mode (M)
Manual mode is exactly what it sounds like, meaning you have full control over exposure definitions by adjusting both aperture and shutter speed to your liking. There is, of course, an exposure indicator either in the viewfinder or on the screen that will tell you how little or how much light there is in the shot, however, you are left with the choice to change the shutter speed and aperture yourself to ensure you achieve the correct exposure.
Practically Speaking: As a first step towards turning off "Auto" mode, aperture priority and shutter priority modes offer two very simple ways begin to understand how different settings change your images and are the perfect way to start learning how to use your DSLR more creatively.
ISO
ISO is a measure of how sensitive a camera's sensor is to light. The term originated in film photography, where films of different sensitivities could be used depending on the shooting conditions, and this is no different in digital photography. ISO sensitivity is represented numerically from ISO 100 (low sensitivity) to ISO 6400 (high sensitivity) and beyond, and adjusts the amount of light the sensors need to achieve a given exposure
At "low" sensitivity, more light is required to achieve a given exposure compared to high sensitivity, where less light needed to achieve the same exposure. To understand this, let's look at two different situations:
Low ISO
When shooting outdoors on a bright sunny day, there is a lot of light that will hit the sensor during the exposure, meaning that the sensors do not have to be very sensitive to achieve the correct exposure. So you can use a small amount of ISO, like ISO 100 or 200. This will give you the highest quality images, with very little grain (or noise).
Image shot at ISO 100 shows no signs of noise (even at 100% zoom (right)
Lots of ISOs
When shooting in low light conditions, such as inside a dark cathedral or museum, for example, there isn't much light available to your camera's sensor. A high ISO number, such as ISO 3200, will increase the sensitivity of the sensor, effectively multiplying the small amount of light available to give you a properly exposed image. This multiplication effect is accompanied by side effect increase noise in an image that looks like an image strewn with fine grain, reducing its overall quality. Noise will be most noticeable in darker/shady areas.
This photo was taken as the sun was setting, meaning there wasn't much ambient light. So this shot was shot at ISO4000, however you can see very obvious noise at 100% zoom (right).
Practically speaking: you should use the ISO as much as possible low values. The lower the value used as the lower ISO, the less noise and higher quality the resulting image. On a sunny day, select ISO200 and see how the picture turns out. If it's cloudy outside, try choosing an ISO between 400-800. When shooting indoors, the ISO used is around 1600 or higher (these are approximate starting points).
Most DSLRs now have an "auto-ISO" feature where the camera sets the ISO based on the amount of light you're shooting in, keeping it as low as possible. Auto ISO is a very useful tool when you're getting started with your camera, as it allows you to set the upper ISO limit, i.e. where the photos get too noisy, such as ISO 1600 or 3200, and then forget about it until you specifically want to override the auto setting, for example, if you shoot a landscape on a DSLR using a tripod, then you can let imagine using low ISOs for long exposures.
3. Explanation of the "exposure triangle"
It is important to note that aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all part of the exposure triangle. They all control either the amount of light entering the camera (aperture, shutter speed) or the amount of light the camera needs (ISO) for a given exposure.
So they are all connected, and understanding the connection between them is critical to being able to take control of your DSLR. A change in one of the settings will affect the other two.
For example, consider the theoretical exposure: ISO400, f/8.0, 1/10 second. If you want to decrease the depth of field and decide to use f/4.0, you would increase the size of the lens aperture by as much as two stops, so the increase in the amount of light entering the camera will increase by a factor of 4 (i.e. there will be an increase in the amount of light by a factor of 2 twice ). Therefore, to balance the exposure, you can do the following:
- Situation 1: Reduce the shutter speed by 4 times, i.e. to 1/40 second.
- Situation 2: Reduce ISO by a factor of 4, i.e. to ISO100.
- Situation 3: Combination of the above methods, shutter speed by a factor of 2 (up to 1/20 second) and reduce the ISO by 2 times (up to ISO200).
Aperture, shutter speed and ISO are all factors that affect your exposure and they are all related. This is just a special case of settling accounts like in accounting!
All of our examples have the effect of reducing the amount of light by a factor of 4, counteracting the aperture change. It's just a case of understanding that they are all related and therefore changing one setting will cause the other to change.
Using a combination of semi-auto shooting modes and auto-ISO would mean that you don't necessarily have to think about adjusting the exposure, at least not on initial stage mastering a digital SLR camera. However, understanding the relationship between ISO, aperture, and shutter speed, and knowing the practical implications of this relationship, is a big step in mastering your DSLR.
4.Measurement
I said above that the camera calculates the exposure based on the amount of light available, but what does it actually do?
When taking a photo, using any form of automatic exposure calculation (such as aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode or auto ISO, etc.) the camera will always attempt to calculate an "average" exposure. It will take into account the entire scene, both light and dark areas of it, and determine the exposure as if all of the tones were within an area of 18% gray, which is called "middle" gray.
This method of accounting is the reason that if you point the camera at a bright white scene, for example, after it has snowed, and take a picture, the resulting image will always appear darker than what we see. Likewise, if you point your camera at an object in a really dark scene, such as a dimly lit room, and take a picture, the resulting image will always be brighter than it actually is.
The scene will always be averaged by the camera most of the time, resulting in images not always displaying correctly. However, you have the ability to control which areas of the scene are distorted by the camera's judgment to influence how best to measure exposure.
There are three metering modes you can choose from:
Matrix — The camera will evaluate tones across the entire width of the frame, and set the exposure as if the entire area of the frame were 18% gray.
Center-Weighted Integral - Meters exposure for the area in the center of the viewfinder, which can be approximately 80% of the scene (about 12mm in diameter), regardless of how bright the corners of the image are.
Spot - The camera uses a small area of the scene, usually a small circle in the center of the viewfinder, which is about 1.5-5% of the viewfinder area. This will make an estimate of the darks/lights in that area and bring the entire scene to 18% gray of that estimate. Correct exposure of the main subject of the frame is guaranteed, even though the background may be very light or dark.
From a practical standpoint, when starting out with a camera, either matrix or center-weighted metering is a good starting point. They will both provide fairly acceptable exposures for what you need, and if you choose one mode and stick to it, you will soon start to recognize when a scene is overexposed (i.e. too dark) or more underexposed (i.e. bright) compared to how you see it with your own eyes.
But what can you do if a scene is underexposed or overexposed? This is where exposure compensation comes in.
Exposure compensation
The main thing is to find on the camera a small button with the image "+ / -" next to the shutter button, this is one of the most useful features, which you need to know how to use. This allows you to either increase or decrease the camera's default exposure meter reading to account for the actual scene brightness.
If the scene contains primarily bright tones and is averaged by the camera as being too dark, such as bright white snow (which is typically reduced to 18% gray by the default metering system), you can turn to positive exposure compensation to let the camera know that the scene should be lighter than the average gray.
In the spring, the lambs jumped on the snowy slope. Left: Shot directly from the camera, with snow defined by the camera as gray. Right: With 2 steps of exposure compensation (added in post-production). The bright snowy background caused my camera to underexpose this scene by almost two stops, which could have been corrected by in-camera exposure compensation.
Conversely, if the scene contains mostly dark tones and is averaged by the camera too light, such as a dark night scene (which is typically reduced to 18% gray by the default metering system), you can turn to negative exposure compensation to let the camera know that the scene should be darker than the average gray.
5.Focus
No matter what shooting mode you're using or what ISO you've set, chances are you'll want to keep your subject in focus. If you do not focus, the image will not be what you wanted.
Autofocus modes
DSLRs come with a range of autofocus modes, however, for the sake of simplicity, here are the two that are most important to understanding AF-S and AF-C.
AF-S - single-frame tracking focus. This AF mode is best used when shooting still subjects such as portraits of people, landscapes, buildings, etc. When you press the shutter button halfway, focus will be adjusted and locked on the subject for as long as you keep the button pressed. If you want to change the frame in order to focus, you need to release the button, recompose the frame, and then lightly press the shutter button again.
AF-C - continuous focus tracking. Best used when shooting action or moving subjects such as sports and wildlife. When you lightly press the shutter, the focus will be adjusted and locked on the subject. If the subject is moving, the focus will adjust with it, refocusing all the time until the photo is taken.
(These modes are not to be confused with the AF/MF switches on the lens, where AF stands for autofocus and MF stands for manual focus. This is a switch in case you want to manually focus your lens. If you want to use one of the autofocus modes discussed above, make sure the switch on the lens is set to AF).
Focus points
Both of these focus modes discussed above rely on the fact that the focus point is known. When you look through the viewfinder, you should see a series of squares/dots all over the screen. When you lightly press the shutter button, you should see one of these squares highlighted in red. This is the active focus point, and it is located in the frame where the camera will focus.
The viewfinder with 9 focus points is shown below:
Newer DSLRs have over 50 focus points, and it's tempting to leave the camera to focus point selection, with the assumption that the camera will be able to select the correct focus point. However, only you know what you want to focus on, and no better way to ensure that the subject is in focus than with a single focus point, and that the focus point is aligned with the subject.
With Single Point Focus selected, you will be able to change the active point quite easily either with the arrow buttons or one of the dials. By choosing a focus point that is on the right subject, you can be sure that the camera will focus where you want. With a little practice, you will soon get into the habit of being able to change the focus point without taking your camera away from your eyes.
From a practical standpoint: Initially set up your camera to use a single focus point (the camera manual should tell you how to do this). In this way, you can be sure that the subject on which you have focused your attention and which you want to shoot would be in focus. If you are familiar with basic focus modes and focus point selection, you can explore the more advanced shooting modes your DSLR has to offer.
6.File Size / File Types
With a DSLR you will have the option to choose how big the original image will be and what type of file it will be saved in.
You'll be able to set the file size to be as large as possible to make sure you're using the most mega pixels of every inch of your camera that you've just invested in.
You will also have the option to choose whether to record images as "RAW" or "JPEG" file types.
A RAW file is not compressed, and therefore contains a lot of image data, which allows for more flexibility during post-processing (i.e. on a computer), but also has additional complications, such as having to convert each file using a special software for editing (which, however, comes free with the new camera) and a larger file size.
JPEG is a compressed file type that is automatically processed by the camera. It will be ready to print straight from the camera, and in a much smaller file size, meaning you can fit more images on your memory card.
From a practical standpoint: When you're just getting started with your camera, shooting in JPEG format is the most logical thing to do. This will allow you to get top scores, while you learn the basics of photography or learn the camera without being aggravated by the post-processing issues of raw files.
7.White balance
When shooting in JPEG format as recommended above, you need to make sure you set the correct white balance before shooting. White balance can greatly affect the color tone of your photos. You may have noticed that sometimes your images have a bluish tint, or other times everything looks very orange. This has to do with white balance and while you can make some adjustments to the image on your computer, it's a lot easier if you get everything right before shooting.
Different light sources (such as the sun, light bulbs, fluorescent tubes, etc.) emit light of different wavelengths, and therefore colors that can be described as great as color temperature. Light from a candle or from the sun during sunrise/sunset is very warm, and contains many red/orange wavelengths, while light from a fluorescent tube is much cooler, containing many blue wavelengths. This colored light bounces off surfaces, but our brains are smart enough to take this into account and automatically counteract the influence of color casts, which means we still see a white surface as a white surface. However, your camera is not that smart, and unless otherwise noted it will record orange or blue tones giving a tint to your images.
Left: An image taken with the auto white balance setting has a heavy yellow tint due to artificial street lighting. Right: The same image, white-balanced for "artificial lighting", giving cool tones to stone surfaces and blue skies.
Since the color temperature of various light sources is known, there are a number of presets built into the camera's automation that can help overcome various colors light in different situations - cooling warm light, and adding warmth to cool light - in order to convey the color in the scene as accurately as possible. The "auto" feature (auto WB or AWB) will try to predict the color of the light by detecting the dominant color in the scene and then fighting it, however this is not necessarily the correct solution and may leave you with an inaccurate color. Therefore, it's best to adjust the color balance manually before taking the shot and just to make sure you're making the right decision (Note: the above images were taken in a RAW file, giving me a lot of freedom to correct the white balance. JPEG files are not as susceptible to white balance settings, which means white balance correction must be done before the picture is taken):
Daylight (Daylight) - For use by clear sunny days. Bright sunlight on a clear day is closer to the neutral lights we usually get.
Cloudy - Used when shooting on a cloudy day. Adds warm tones to daytime shots.
Shade - Should be used when shooting in the shade, where shaded areas usually create cooler, bluer images, so you need to add warmth to the shots.
Tungsten (Incandescent) - Used indoors, under incandescent lights, or under outdoor street lights to cool yellow tones.
Fluorescent - Compensates for the green/blue tones of fluorescent lights when shooting indoors.
Flash (Flash) - Flash adds a cool blue tint to the image, so we need to add some warm tones.
From a practical point of view: avoid setting automatic white balance and use manual white balance settings. You can probably look up at the sky and see what day it is and determine the right color balance, which is pretty easy. When moving indoors, simply check the lighting you're shooting in and re-select the appropriate white balance. It will soon become second nature to you, setting up the BB as soon as you take your camera out of your bag.
Conclusion
Here's an overview of the settings you'll come across when you want to take the leap in mastering your camera after using the Auto mode. You don't have to learn them all at once, but learning and understanding the impact of each setting will soon give you complete control over your digital reflex camera.
The biggest step, which will give you the most noticeable difference in a sense of control and direct influence on creative results, is to start using aperture priority or shutter priority shooting modes, and once you're familiar with them, you can start thinking about exploring your DSLR. digital camera farther. Soon enough, you will no longer think of your camera as a mysterious black box, but will begin to understand how to achieve the photographic results you bought it for in the first place.
Hello readers! I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. Almost everyone has a camera these days. But when you buy a camera, can you now consider yourself a professional photographer? Most likely not, I think so. You can clearly see how the pictures of amateurs are far from the excellent shots of specialists in their field. Therefore, today the time has come to figure out how to learn to photograph professionally and stop being an amateur.
Technology can provide a lot of possibilities. But it is important to remember that, whatever they are, it will not replace your mind, the ability to generate incredible ideas and your own vision of the world. The camera will help to realize all this, no more. What you shoot your photos on matters, because the camera can be of different levels.
However, you can create a professional image with both a phone and a SLR camera. You can impress the viewer with a picture not only in terms of its brightness, clarity, detail, but also with its composition and interesting plot.
We take learning into our own hands!
Do you want to take pictures in such a way that your pictures are simply breathtaking? Don't know where to start and how to get there? This article is at your service. Not always, in order to do something well and professionally, you should study at a university, applying a certain amount of effort and wasting your time, you can do it yourself.
To master the SLR camera, of course, it takes more time. It has a complex device, but also a lot of room for growth as a person as a photographer.
I would like to draw your attention to the following points:
- Photography as a craft and art. Do not treat your hobby negligently. Many people make good money on this! Photography is a whole science, a profession. Study the concept of photography, its types, history, to create your own idea of it and what your role as a photographer is.
- Photoformation. There is no escape from theory. I advise not only to read about the immediate features of the shooting process, but also more deeply - the structure of the camera, what and how it works. Also touch on the topic of the biography of famous masters of photography: where did they start their journey, what technique do they prefer to use, in what style do they shoot, etc. It also does not hurt to be like special courses, master classes.
- Camera. A separate and important point is the study of your own camera. It doesn't matter what you have - a DSLR or a soap box. You must know all its advantages and disadvantages. You can take decent photos on your phone, or you can not know what to do with expensive optics.
- Practical focus. Take your camera with you whenever possible. After all, you never know where you can find a great shot. Highlight free time only for photography and nothing else - let this be the time for your hobby.
In practice, you should study:
- Features of light and its influence on the photo. This includes light from the side, directly in front of the camera, behind it and other intermediate options. It also has its own atmosphere and, therefore, other parameters will be needed for shooting at sunset, sunrise, on a sunny day or at dusk. Some difficulties may arise in a room with its specific lighting, they should be given attention.
- Differences in camera settings. Try all available modes, be sure to experiment with manual mode and basic exposure settings.
- Location of objects in the frame(). Will the frame be dynamic, or maybe balanced? What means of directing the eye of the observer will you use? What principle will you rely on in a particular case? You should be able to answer all these questions, and you should prepare for shooting in advance in order to think through all such nuances.
- The specifics of shooting a portrait, landscape, inanimate objects. Working with a model can be a daunting task, but you will spend just as much time creating a high-quality landscape or subject picture.
Features of shooting on the phone
Since in the case of photographing on a phone, the resolution and image quality will be relatively low, it means that the emphasis will have to be on the content of the frame. And here are some tips:
- Wipe the lens of a small camera. If on a SLR camera a particle of dust or a print does not spoil the entire frame, then in the case of this optics, garbage can fall on the entire image.
- Frame right away. If you have digital zoom on your cell phone, don't use it. Get closer to your subject and you won't need the zoom feature. There is no particular point in it, since in any case, as already mentioned, the resolution on the phone is low.
- Choose a large format. The highest quality (and big size) the photo will provide its maximum detail and clarity.
- Searching for the light. Lighting is important in any photo, but in the absence of a good quality camera and a good flash, light becomes even more of a factor. Choose objects on which light rays fall, or wait for the appropriate moment for their best illumination.
- Avoid Contrasts. Even a high-quality camera is not able to display a sharp black and white transition in the picture: usually either the ground and buildings will be too dark, and the sky is normal, or the sky is overexposed, and the earth's surface is well exposed. What can we say about the camera phone.
- Consider delay. The shutter of a phone camera is certainly slower than a real camera, so it will “think” for a few seconds before taking a picture. At this time it is extremely undesirable to move, wait. You can even recommend setting the burst shooting option.
- New optics. For a certain kind phones, the same smartphones, you can pick up interchangeable lenses. Actually, this is a good option for exploring the possibilities of mobile photography.
Soap camera
Compact cameras are also different, but if we talk specifically about simple amateur soap dishes, then we usually have a low price and a limited set of functions. In the case of such cameras, not only the above points will be true, but one more is added - working with parallax.
Its influence on the picture is quite significant, so you need to remember about it and build the frame accordingly. It consists in a certain percentage of discrepancy between what the viewfinder sees and the lens itself. I remind you that on soap dishes these two parts of the camera are one, and only in expensive models optics are interchangeable.
Let's not talk about sad things! After all, soap dishes are still considered cameras and, unlike phones, you can play with them in different modes. Check them out, they might come in handy. Most often they are the same as on a SLR camera. But I do not advise you to shoot in manual mode.
In my experience, building all the settings yourself on a simple photographic equipment is a very difficult task - a perfect exposed picture cannot be achieved in any case. It is better not to suffer, but you can slightly improve the image after in a graphics editor. There will be more opportunities in this regard than changing a photo taken on a phone.
On this beautiful note, I will end my fascinating story. I hope you get my idea. Take more pictures, more practice, do not forget my recommendations and you will feel the result in the near future!
For a more detailed and in-depth study of the basics of photography and the camera, the course “ Digital SLR for beginners 2.0". He has absorbed all the most necessary and useful for development. I recommend it to all beginner photographers as a desktop encyclopedia into the world of professional photography.
Goodbye readers! New photo articles coming soon! Check out my blog, subscribe yourself and invite your friends!
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
Many beginners, having got a camera, imagine that in the near future they will become a professional photographer. At the same time, there are people who really want to master the art of photography. They are aware that it is not easy to do this, and are actively interested in how to become a professional photographer of people and animals.
Some amateur photographers manage to get into the professional league. To do this, you have to follow the canons observed even by world-famous photographers. Some photographers do not understand the terminology and intricacies of photographic art, but this does not prevent them from achieving huge success. These people have phenomenal talent.
If you're looking to learn how to take high-quality photographs, my tips will help. In the article I will share the secrets of photography.
- Decide what you want to get, how to learn to photograph professionally. Some strive for the recognition of skill, others are more interested in making money.
- If you want to do photography, always carry a tool with you - a high-quality and reliable camera. First of all, study the instructions for the device and master the methods of shooting.
- A photograph is an ordinary picture. Famous people involved in painting, started creative activity copying still lifes, landscapes and portraits. Therefore, at first, reshoot popular works.
- Take photographs all the time. If you always have your camera with you, take pictures at every turn. Good practice will bring a store of experience. Failed plots should not upset. After a detailed analysis of the errors, strive to improve the result.
- Constantly improve your skills, participate in photo contests, strive for high awards and honorary pedestals.
You've got your first idea of how to become a professional photographer. A good photographer will be the person for whom photography is the main hobby and purpose of life.
Learn to take professional photos with a DSLR
Buying a SLR camera is not difficult. The market offers professional and semi-professional photography equipment in a wide range of models and prices.
A person who has become the owner of a DSLR has every chance of becoming a master of photography. To do this, you should learn how to learn how to professionally take pictures with a DSLR, explore the capabilities of the device and learn how to use them.
Climbing to the top of glory is within the power of those who know how to connect theoretical knowledge with practical exercises.
- ISO . Set your camera's sensitivity to ISO correctly. The quality of a photograph depends on the level of illumination of the objects that are being photographed. If you shoot in a dark room or in the evening, set the indicator to 800. For cloudy weather, four hundred units are enough, and in good lighting conditions, two hundred is sometimes a lot. When using a flash, reduce the ISO to the minimum mark.
- white balance . Another important parameter, thanks to which the camera correctly perceives and displays colors. Under the influence of different lighting, natural colors change shade. The light of an incandescent lamp gives the color of the object a yellowish tint. Reducing the influence of lighting is easy - use the settings to make the colors more natural. Practice shooting in different lighting conditions and adjusting this setting.
- Diaphragm . A small opening in a lens that controls the flow of light by closing or opening it. To achieve the goal, use the capabilities of the element depending on the conditions. The aperture adjusts the sharpness of the image. With a closed aperture, clear photographs are obtained, equally sharp across the entire surface. When the aperture is open, the focus will stop at a certain place.
- Excerpt . Affects the image. The parameter determines the clarity of the photo, static or dynamic. If the subject is moving quickly, such as a dog running, the shutter speed is set as fast as possible to freeze the frame. In low light, the shutter speed does not allow you to take a good picture of a moving object.
- Long exposure . The details of the photo are worked out only if a slow shutter speed is used. So it is better to shoot with a tripod, because the camera catches even slight movements during exposure. Shooting moving subjects at slow shutter speeds makes for interesting shots. For example, the result of shooting water with a short shutter speed is well-drawn splashes, and a long shutter speed will make the natural element smooth and silky.
- Instructions for the camera . Before practice, be sure to read the instructions for the SLR camera. Each model has certain features and tricks to set up.
Videos training
You've just learned how to become a professional DSLR photographer. At first, take photos by activating the automatic mode. As a result, you do not have to adjust the aperture and adjust the ISO.
Secrets of professional phone photos
Many are of the opinion that you can only take a high-quality photograph with a good camera. The quality of the camera does not always play a decisive role. Take, for example, some great photographer. He will take a great photo with any camera, because the secret of photography is not in technology, but in the intricacies of settings and use.
All mobile phones are equipped with a built-in camera, which many users actively use. Therefore, I will tell you how to learn how to take professional photos on your phone.
According to the masters of photography, in recent times they use the camera more and more mobile phone which allows you to take great pictures. You, too, will achieve this result if you follow a few rules.
- High mobility . The main advantage of photographing on the phone. The photographer can spend time observing and choosing interesting angles. Since there are few settings in the phone, you will have to learn how to feel objects.
- Scaling . All phones have a zoom function, and many users use it. High-quality photos are very rare due to digital zoom. If you want to get a high-quality photo, use the legs instead of the function. They will help you get as close to the object as possible.
- Light sensors . The light sensors that come with phones are getting better every year, but they can't be compared with a SLR camera. The disadvantage is compensated by good lighting of a natural or artificial nature.
- Composition . Modern mobile phones help photographers with a grid, but you should not forget about the rule of thirds. By training your skills, learn to feel the edges, breaking which will make beautiful photos.
- Friendship of phone and SLR camera . Sometimes a person goes on vacation or on a trip, and with the help of a mobile phone finds a wonderful shot for the camera. The phone will help out even when it is not possible to use a regular camera.
- Phone Care . Many are kind to cameras, wipe lenses, control the charge of the battery. The above rules apply to a phone with a camera. When going on a photo hunt, make sure the battery is charged and protective glass cameras are missing prints.
Video tips
Progress does not stand still, but the camera phone is unable to keep up with the DSLR. However, don't discount it. Just a few years ago, digital soap dishes were popular, but phones quickly squeezed them out of the market. If you shoot for a personal album or social network, good phone enough.
How to photograph people the right way
Portrait is a popular genre of photography. People are photographed by both professionals and beginners who have not had time to gain experience. The high popularity of the portrait is easily explained: everyone wants the photographer to capture his image on paper.
If it is easy for an established master to take such a photo, beginners are interested in how to learn how to photograph people professionally. Once trained, they will be able to photograph wedding anniversaries, birthdays, and holiday events.
- Respect . If you master the art of creating beautiful portraits, learn to respect people. At first glance, the words may seem pretentious, but you must admit that the photographer will not take a good picture if he is dismissive of his model. A disdainful attitude towards a person does not allow the photographer to penetrate into his soul. As a result, the photographs are insensitive. The model, feeling such an attitude, will behave constrainedly and will never trust a specialist.
- Observation . Take a good look at the person before taking the picture. So study his characteristic gestures and facial expressions. Observation will help determine how the model reacts to different events. Based on the information received, you can achieve the desired emotion in just a few words.
- Shot composition . Before pressing the shutter button, make sure that there are no unnecessary elements in the field of view of the lens. For a good portrait, one little thing in the frame is enough. If the model is holding a pipe in her hands, it is not necessary to poke her a glass of wine.
- Experiments . The art of photography welcomes bold experiments that involve changing angles. There are times when the standard camera position is not suitable. For example, if a person has small eyes, hold the camera a little higher. This will highlight the beauty.
- Angle . If the person posing has certain flaws, a good photographer will do everything to hide them. Only in this case finished work will bring true joy to the customer. Otherwise, reward only disappointment. For example, complete man do not shoot in profile, otherwise you will focus on a double chin. You will mask the emerging bald spot with a dark background, which will make the head visually darker.
Video tips
Every person who has had to photograph animals knows that it is extremely problematic to do this. The resulting shots don't always capture the fun and beauty of the moment.
During the further conversation, you will learn how to learn to photograph animals professionally. Mastering the art of digital photography can take a long time. But in the future, you will take excellent pictures and make wonderful collages.
Close-ups and ISO settings are easy to master. This is enough to take pictures of motionless and sleeping animals. In the case of moving animals, it is difficult to make a good shot.
- Accommodation . If you want to take a picture of an animal, try to make it slightly below your gaze in the photo. Otherwise, you will end up in a funny situation. For example, shooting from below will make the animal visually huge. Professional photographers often take eye-to-eye shots, which provide a special effect.
- Eyes . Animal eyes are in no way inferior to human ones in terms of beauty. They must be present in the frame. When shooting, focus on the eyes to catch the moment when the puppy or kitten looks at you.
- Frame fullness . Shooting is considered the most successful when animals account for 75% of the frame. There should be no unnecessary elements in the frame. If you are going to photograph a dog, there should be no more than two additional details in the frame - a pillow, a blanket, or a sofa corner. Additional Item in the frame is required. It indicates the actual size of the animal, as a result, the picture will be harmonious.
- Background . Special attention take the background. Choose a neutral background, without eye-catching colors and sharp outlines.
- Flash . Do not use flash as animals are very afraid of sounds and bright flashes. All the little animals are endowed with a lightning-fast reaction, frightened by the flash, they will jerk sharply, which will ruin the frame. In natural light, animals look familiar and impressive.
- Character traits . When shooting an animal, try to capture the features of its unsurpassed character. For example, a beloved cat can be playful and affectionate. With the help of a toy, gesture or sound, you can easily evoke the desired emotions in the animal. The frame is just amazing.
- Animals in motion . When photographing a moving animal, be sure to leave space in the photo in front of it. As a result, the viewer will have the feeling of a walking animal. Do the same when the animal is looking somewhere. Lack of space in front of the animal will bring uncomfortable sensations.
- lighting . There are no special requirements. It is best to create a portrait in conditions of unidirectional bright light illuminating one side of the animal. As a result, the light along with the shadow will provide excellent contrast and fine detail.
Video lessons
You have learned how to become a professional animal photographer. Animal photography welcomes the paparazzi style, where the animal must be caught off guard before being photographed. So get some beautiful and unexpected shots.
Remember, the animal, being in natural environment, better demonstrates its nature. By taking these pictures, you can earn. You may be able to build a career as a photographer by being a staff member of some animal magazine.
How to photograph objects
It seemed that in order to take a photo, it was enough to take a camera, look into the lens and press a button. This opinion is shared by beginners who embark on the path of learning photography.
They find it difficult to say why the work of some photographers causes delight, while others - a smile and bewilderment. It's about the photography technique used and the ability to choose a plot.
Continuing the topic of conversation, consider how to learn to photograph objects professionally. The benefit will not make you a professional, but do nice photos for a family album learn.
- Constant practice . If you want to reach your goal, keep practicing. Carry your favorite camera with you. It is impossible to predict when once again you will find a good shot. If you don't have a camera, you won't take a picture. Really good stories are rare.
- Pay attention to different things . If familiar landscapes and boring interiors do not contribute to the birth of new ideas, look at them from the other side. For example, the rays of the setting sun will color the flower in other shades.
- Experiment with settings, modes and angles . Do not photograph from the same position and height. Bend over, squat, and look at surrounding objects upside down more often. True, in last case You will need to master the handstand.
- Learn new things and look for useful information . Reading books, viewing albums, visiting thematic sites and exhibitions, communicating with professionals will help. The received material is immediately consolidated, applying new knowledge in practice.
- Learn to take criticism . In a few photography lessons, becoming a genius is unrealistic. During practice, you will make mistakes and make rash actions. Treat the criticism that accompanies newcomers favorably. By looking for flaws in your work and carefully analyzing, change the situation.
- Avoid disharmony . During framing, avoid disharmony between the elements of the photograph. Otherwise, one part of the picture will become thematically and visually outweigh. Arrange the objects in the picture correctly and harmoniously.
- Follow the golden ratio . During shooting, conditionally divide the frame into nine equal parts using horizontal and vertical lines. Place the main elements of the frame at the intersection of lines.
- Use geometric figures . When composing a shot, use the geometric shapes visible to the naked eye that make up the subjects. Consider the location of the object and the background, on which there should be no unnecessary elements.
- Don't Forget the Vertical Format . To shoot tall buildings and vertical objects, use the vertical format. Horizontal shooting is better for landscapes.
- Take Contrasting Shots . The objects you shoot should not blend into the background. It is recommended to shoot dark objects against a light background, and light objects against a dark one.
Applying the acquired knowledge in practice, you will get successful pictures of high-rise buildings, architectural monuments and other objects. The skills will come in handy when traveling and traveling. As a result, you will make a wonderful album that will not let you forget the bright and impressive moments of your active life.
History of photography
Each family has a large archive of black and white photographs, while modern cameras shoot high-quality color frames. Less than two hundred years have passed since the first photograph. The developers of the first camera did not imagine that the creation of the device would be a revolutionary event.
At the beginning of the 17th century, the astronomer Johannes Kepler used the laws of light refraction in the optical medium, which made it possible to project an image onto the surface. It was possible to fix the projection only in 1820 by the efforts of Joseph Nicéphore Niépce, who used asphalt varnish to fix the image. The installation became the prototype of modern photographic equipment.
Subsequently, the scientist William Talbot, with the help of Niepce's invention, obtained a negative and improved the quality of the picture. Later there was another historical event- Mr. Setton invented the mirror lens in early 1865. The camera based on it resembled modern technology and took high-quality pictures for that time.
At the end of the 19th century, Kodak film appeared, and later the Lumiere brothers proposed using special plates to create color photographs. The beginning of mass production of cameras falls on 1925. Since that moment, cameras have been repeatedly improved and refined, as a result, models with the widest capabilities are available today.
It took humanity 150 years to learn how to photograph professionally. In the 21st century, the camera is a tool for creating artistic masterpieces. See you!
The path of a professional photographer is to constantly learn new skills and apply the acquired knowledge in practice. The result of non-stop development will be pictures that can touch something in every person.
You will need a professional camera. Visit shops selling photographic equipment. Surely you will see a huge number of cameras of different brands with different functionality. Give preference to a model with a large number of megapixels and optical zoom (the increase will be better). Pay attention to the number of manual settings (white balance must be required). The more settings provided in the technique, the more professional it is. When you choose the right model, read the instructions well to master the technical side. To work out, take simple amateur pictures. At the first stage, it is very important to master the ISO value (matrix light sensitivity). Remember that a beautiful landscape cannot be captured at high ISO values \u200b\u200b- noise will occur. When shooting at night, professionals recommend taking pictures from a tripod or stop. If you are photographing a subject in motion, raise the ISO a little so that the frame does not turn out blurry.
In order not to get lost among amateurs, constantly learn something new. Don't be discouraged if your pictures don't turn out very well at first. Regular training will help you "fill your hand" and understand all the intricacies of shooting different objects.
