How to make a plaster ceiling. We prepare tools and materials. Selection of materials and tools for mounting a plasterboard ceiling

Suspended plasterboard ceilings in the interior of residential premises are no longer an innovation, they are deservedly popular so far. There are many different ideas design decoration ceilings with plasterboard sheets.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard ceilings

Gypsum board is a sheet made of plaster and covered with cardboard. One of the main advantages of this material is its environmental friendliness. GCR is not isolated chemical substances, so you can even use them for finishing ceilings in children's rooms.

Plasterboard ceiling sheathing has the following advantages:

1. Surface leveling. GKL installation is a quick and dry way to make the ceiling almost 100% even. Minor defects can subsequently be repaired with gypsum putty.
2. Disguise communications. Between the base and suspended ceilings, you can conduct the necessary cables, pipes.
3. Various lighting systems. Almost any type of lighting devices is mounted in a suspended structure.
4. An abundance of forms. With the help of GKL you can create a multi-level design different forms with interesting curves.
5. Efficiency of installation. When installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, you do not need to wait until the mortar dries. Depending on the dimensions of the room and the available skills, the work can be carried out within one to two days.
6. Noise and heat insulation. Using GKL, you can significantly improve the insulation characteristics of the room.
7. A wide range of. The market today offers sheets of various thicknesses and with different performance characteristics. For example, moisture-resistant products can be used for installation in rooms with high humidity(bathrooms, kitchens).

If you decide to install plasterboard ceilings, you must take into account the disadvantages of such a finish:

• Reducing the ceiling height. The suspended structure will take away from five centimeters of the total height due to the use of special profiles, therefore it is not recommended to install drywall in low rooms.
• Labor-intensive installation process. For a beginner, the work can be difficult. It is advisable to involve an assistant in the process.
• The appearance of cracks. With improper installation, cracks will appear at the joints of the sheets in the future.

If the height of the room allows you to equip a suspended structure, then, following our recommendations and step-by-step instructions, you can carry out the installation work yourself.

Features of the choice of drywall for the ceiling

Plasterboard sheets are divided into several varieties. Their choice depends on the operational characteristics of the room in which they will be used.

The main types of drywall:

1. GKL. This is a standard sheet of gypsum board that is lined with soft cardboard on both sides of the gypsum layer. For residential premises, it is recommended to use sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm. This will lighten the weight of the ceiling structure.
2. GKLO. Gypsum board with refractory properties. As a rule, it is used for finishing industrial premises.
3. GKLV. Waterproof drywall sheet. It is used for finishing ceilings and walls in bathrooms, kitchens. It is important that the front surface is protected with ceramic tiles, waterproof paint or primer.
4. GKLVO. Flame retardant moisture resistant drywall sheet. Combines the properties of GKLO and GKLV.
5. GVL. Gypsum sheet. Such sheets are not pasted over with cardboard, and gypsum is reinforced with special cellulose waste paper. These are sheets of increased hardness, resistant to fire. Can be used for finishing ceilings in kitchens.
6. GVLV. Moisture resistant gypsum fiber sheets.

Selection of materials and tools for mounting a plasterboard ceiling

To make a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we need a list of special tools and materials:

• Profiles. Guides (ud) and carriers (cd). It is better to give preference to products from trusted manufacturers and suppliers. The use of low-quality products can cause the coating to sag.
• Drywall. Sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm are suitable for the ceiling (12 mm products are used for wall cladding). Ordinary drywall is available in gray, moisture resistant - green, refractory - red. The latter has a relatively high cost, therefore it is practically not used for installation in residential apartments. You need to buy material with a margin of 3-5%, since overspending is possible due to the thickness of the cuts.
• sealant. This is a special 30 mm, self-adhesive tape with a porous structure. It is used to fix the frame of the false ceiling and helps to improve the soundproofing properties.
• Fasteners. You need to stock up on: U-shaped brackets, crab connectors for supporting profiles, self-tapping screws 25 * 3.5 mm, 8.5 * 3.5 mm, driven or expansion dowels from 6 * 40 mm to 6 * 60 mm. If moisture resistant sheets are installed, then it is better to choose galvanized fasteners. They are not subject to corrosion under the influence of high humidity.

As for the tools, in the process you will need a hydraulic level, and it is undesirable to use a bubble one, since measuring one wall will take a long time. It is optimal to use a laser, but since its price is quite high, a water one with two vessels of water and a paint thread is also suitable. You also need a knife for cutting drywall, a screwdriver and a puncher.

Preparatory work before installing a plasterboard ceiling

Before starting work, you need to prepare the surface of the ceiling, for this:

1. We clean the ceiling from the old finishing layer.
2. We remove stains of fungus, mold, rust, grease and soot. This can be done with special antiseptics.
3. We close up large cracks with cement-based putty.
4. We prime the coating with a composition with antiseptic components. This is a mandatory procedure. Otherwise, stains will appear on the false ceiling in the future.

When the surface is completely ready and the primer has dried, it is necessary to de-energize the room - and you can proceed directly to the installation. Please note that you may need goggles, gloves, a respirator. They need to stock up in advance.

Surface marking technology for mounting drywall to the ceiling

To carry out marking work, you will need a level, a chopping cord and a tape measure.

We work in the following sequence:

• Using a tape measure, measure the corners of the room.
• In the lowest corner we measure 5 cm from the ceiling and make a mark. If you plan to install fixtures, then measure 8 cm.
• Using the building level, we make marks in the same plane at the other corners.
• We stretch the paint cord between the points and beat off the lines along the perimeter of the room.
• We measure 10 cm from the edges of the guide profile and, if necessary, make holes. If they already exist, then skip this paragraph.
• We apply the guide profile to the wall so that its lower edge is at the level with the beating line.
• We make marks on the wall through the holes in the profile with a simple pencil.
• We drill holes for fasteners with a puncher at the marks made.
• We glue the sealant on the profile and fix it to the wall with three to five dowels.
• We mark the ceiling profiles with lines in 40 cm increments. Since one sheet has a width of 1 meter 20 cm, this arrangement of the profiles will allow it to be fixed along the edges and in the middle.
• We also beat off the transverse lines with a cord in increments of 0.5 m. Thus, in any case, the jumper will be located at the junction of sheets, the length of which is standardly 2.5 meters.
• We install the first row of hangers twice as close to the wall, at a distance of 0.25 m.
• The second row is set at a distance prescribed 0.5 m from the first (from the wall you get 0.75 m). Then we continue with a half-meter step.
• We apply the ceiling suspension on the marked lines and make two marks for fasteners through the profile holes.

Please note that when drilling holes for fasteners, you will need goggles and a respirator, because dust is usually generated.

Rules for installing a frame for a plasterboard ceiling

The strength, rigidity and reliability of the structure directly depend on this stage, so you should be extremely careful.

In the process, we adhere to the following instructions:

1. We attach a sealant to the suspensions.
2. With the help of anchors, we fix the suspensions and bend the edges to the maximum deflection.
3. We prepare ceiling profiles. Their standard length is 3 meters. If the room is smaller, then the products are cut with special scissors 1 cm shorter than the length of the ceiling. For large rooms, we build up the profile using a special connecting fastener.
4. We begin to fix the profile from the corner with the help of four self-tapping screws with press washers. At the same time, the assistant holds the profile located diagonally to prevent deflection.
5. We fix the ceiling profile to the guide using self-tapping screws without a drill.
6. After fixing in the corners, we fix the center of the profiles on the suspensions. At this stage, be sure to check the position using a long level.
7. When the suspensions are fixed, we bend up the excess length of the edges.
8. Install the second profile according to the same instructions.
9. We install two profiles on the opposite side in this way.
10. We fix in the center the rest of the ceiling profiles based on the already mounted ones.
11. In the place of the future joint of the sheets, we fix the jumpers using special single-level fasteners. We fix the crabs with four self-tapping screws.
12. Jumpers are cut from the ceiling profile.
13. We attach the prepared products to the crab using four self-tapping screws, bending the antennae.
14. To isolate the ceiling in the intervals between the profiles, we cut pieces of rolled insulation a few centimeters larger than the recess. The best option for these purposes - mineral wool. It differs not only in thermal insulation characteristics, but also provides good noise absorption.
15. We insert the parts, slightly squeezing into the interprofile gaps. Please note that when working with this material, you must use a respirator and gloves. The thickness of the insulation must be less than the thickness of the profile.

Please note that when building a ceiling profile, the joints of a number of fixed parts should be in a different plane and located near the hangers.

Instructions for fixing drywall to the ceiling

Before you make a plasterboard ceiling, the material needs to adapt to the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. Therefore, he is left to lie in a room for several days. Please note that it is stored exclusively in a horizontal position.

Installation work is carried out as follows:

• We lay out all communications. We place the wires in a special corrugated sleeve, attach the pipes to the walls between the ceiling and the suspended structure or directly to the base surface. Communication parts must not hang down or put pressure on the false ceiling. In the places of installation of lighting fixtures, we draw conclusions. If spot lighting is planned, then we install lamp racks.
• We remove the chamfer on a sheet of drywall. To do this, cut the edges with a special knife at an angle. This must be done to improve the penetration of putty into the gap. The glued ends already have a chamfer, so we do not process them.
• We fix the first sheet in the corner with self-tapping screws in increments of 20 cm, deepening the hats into the base. The margin from the edges should be 1-1.5 cm. It is important to place fasteners on adjacent sheets in different planes.
• We attach the second sheet with a shift of one or two cells. It must be attached to wall and ceiling rails around the perimeter of the square and in the middle.
• We leave a gap of 1.5-2 mm along the perimeter of each sheet.

Please note that the joining of the sheets should be carried out at a distance of 10 cm from the outer corners, if there are any in the room. Otherwise, a crack will form at the junction.

The technique of puttying seams on a plasterboard ceiling

One of the main stages of installing a plasterboard ceiling is puttying the joints.

It is carried out according to the following instructions:

1. We impregnate the joints with a primer based on acrylates.
2. After the primer layer has dried, we dilute the putty mixture. For these purposes, you can use a gypsum composition.
3. We fill the seams near the walls with putty and level with a wide spatula.
4. We repeat the procedure for the gaps between the sheets and the caps of the fasteners.
5. After the putty has dried, we glue the sickle tape to the joints and cover it with putty. An angled spatula is ideal for working in corners.
6. If desired, in order to strengthen the coating and prevent the appearance of cracks in the future, we glue the surface with fiberglass. To do this, glue the first square with PVA and hold until it grabs.
7. The second is fixed with a slight overlap. We wait a few minutes and draw a line at the joints with a clerical knife, removing unnecessary details.
8. We apply a layer of finishing putty. Its thickness should not exceed 1.5 cm. To do this, we collect the mixture with a small spatula and apply it along the large (working) blade. On the ceiling we put putty on ourselves.
9. After drying, we rub all the irregularities with fine-grained sanding paper.
10. Remove dust with a dry sponge or vacuum cleaner.
11. We prime the surface with an acrylic composition to improve adhesion with a further facing layer.

After that, you can start finishing the false ceiling. If desired, it can be painted, wallpapered or decorated in any way you like.

Often in the design of suspended structures, several light sources are used. To understand the question of how to make a backlit plasterboard ceiling, you must first understand the principles and specifics of installing a conventional structure (mounting methods, marking rules, material selection features). On this basis, it is already easier to organize original lighting, emphasizing the uniqueness and solidity of the interior.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling - look at the video:

Detailed and step by step instructions help you do the work yourself, without resorting to the services of builders. Please note that it is imperative to adhere to each item and fulfill all requirements as accurately as possible. Only in this case, the design will turn out to be even, durable and will look aesthetically pleasing.

Drywall is one of the main and most popular materials used in repair and construction. If you decide to make plasterboard ceilings, then you need to familiarize yourself with their advantages and disadvantages.

Consider the benefits plasterboard ceiling

1. The ability to hide irregularities and defects without much effort.
2. All kinds of pipes, wires and cables can be hidden in the manufactured frame.
3. For aesthetics, a variety of lighting systems can be built into such a ceiling, which will give the ceiling and the entire repair the most attractive look.
4. Additional sound and heat insulation can be installed in the frame.
5. Since laying drywall is a dry method and you do not have to wait for it to dry, the installation process is quite fast and does not require a long waiting time for such a ceiling to dry, while it turns out to be perfectly even.

Disadvantages of installing a plasterboard ceiling

1. A rather complicated process that will require you to have certain skills and purchase some hand tools, such as a screwdriver and a hammer drill.
2. If you already know how to make a plasterboard ceiling, then you should have taken into account such a moment as reducing the height of the room by 5 cm or even more. This will happen due to the aluminum profile, which is quite wide.
3. The joints of drywall sheets are not eternal and cracks may appear in the future.
4. Laying such ceilings yourself is quite difficult, so even if you are an experienced installer, you will most likely have to use the help of a partner.

Therefore, if you intend to produce drywall laying, then you must first analyze all the advantages that are more significant and more of them, and the disadvantages, and only then get to work.

Types of drywall

To understand what drywall to make a ceiling from, you need to know what types it is. There are several types of drywall, which are obtained by adding some modifiers.

1. The main type of drywall is used everywhere, but it is advisable to purchase famous brands operating on the market for over 10 years.
2. Waterproof is used in conditions of high humidity, without collapsing at the same time and counteracting the appearance of fungus or mold.
3. Flame retardant is used in fire hazardous facilities.
4. The combined type combines waterproof and fire-resistant properties.

markup

If a person knows how a plasterboard ceiling is made, then it is clear to him that this work begins with marking. First you need to find out where the lowest corner in the room is, and draw a mark, retreating 5 cm from the ceiling, and after that, with a hydraulic level, mark the same level in the remaining three corners.

Note!

In order to connect the points marked in the corners with a straight line, you need to draw a line.

It can be made with a special masking cord, which must be stretched between the cut-offs, and then abruptly released. As a result of this, the cord will hit the wall and leave a mark on which we will put the profile.

Mounting rails

The profile is applied with the lower edge to the line and a mark is made through the hole. Be sure to make holes 10 cm from the edge, if there are none, and also mark these places. After we fix the sealing tape on the profile, install it, using three dowels, to the wall.

Then we will make the markup in increments of 40 cm, and we will put the suspensions at a distance of 50 cm from each other. We will make an exception for the first row of suspensions and set the initial one at a distance of 25 cm from the edge. When marking the location of the suspensions, it is enough to make two points.

Drywall installation

Frame installation

If we have already figured out how to make a plasterboard ceiling, then we can proceed to mount the frame.

1. We install suspensions with anchor bolts. At the same time, we pull out the dowels, since they do not hold drywall well. Be sure to fix the seal on the hangers, and after installation, bend the ends.
2. We install a ceiling profile, which is sold with a length of 3 m. If the room is longer than the profile, then we build it up with special fasteners, and if shorter, we cut it so that it is 1.5 cm shorter than the room. Fixing the profile to the hangers starts from the corners.
3. Profiles for suspensions are installed using self-tapping screws. Four pieces are needed for each hanger. We also fix the profiles to the guides. After we have fixed the corners, we fix the center of the profile to the suspensions. After installing the hangers, we bend the excess ends.
4. In the same way, we install another one, then move to the other side and fasten the next two profiles, and then, from the center, we complete the fastening of the rest.
5. We put jumpers to the junction of drywall. We install them with the help of crabs.

frame

Drywall installation

If you decide to install drywall with your own hands, then you need to follow a certain order. It is necessary to take into account the following: drywall should rest in a horizontal position for two days.

Before you start laying drywall, you need to cut the chamfers. The cutting should be at an angle so that when the putty is laid down, it penetrates well enough into the holes. In general, sheet fastening should be started from the corners of the room. Self-tapping screws must be installed every 20 cm, and retreat 1.5 cm from the edges.

Completing the installation

When fixing drywall with self-tapping screws, you need to remember that its cap should not stick out of the sheet, it should be, as it were, pressed into it. In adjacent sheets of drywall, self-tapping screws must be screwed in a run-up relative to each other. The sheets do not need to be connected to each other as tightly as possible, it is desirable that there is a gap of 1.5-2 mm between them.

If you are going to make noise insulation, then for these it is best to use mineral wool, which is an excellent sound insulator. During installation, it is cut into pieces and it must be fastened to the suspensions. When laying the sound insulator, it is advisable to use a mask.

Drywall needs to be plastered

Laying seams

At the final stage of work, you need to properly putty and lay the seams. First, you need to tear off the cardboard and process the seams with a primer. After their final drying, we seal the seams with putty. For durability, it is desirable to use its hardened look. It is necessary to dilute the putty strictly according to the instructions, because even a slight deviation can affect the strength of the joint.

Termination order

We start the termination from the wall, after which we proceed to the joints of the sheets and the caps of the screws. Then you need to wait for the seams to dry and then stick a special tape on them, which overlaps at the intersection of the seams.

Note!

After completion of this work, another layer of putty is laid on the tape, and the remaining minor defects and irregularities are also repaired.

Puttying in the corners is best done with a triangular trowel. If you follow these recommendations for grouting, they will last as long as possible without cracking. After the sealing of the joints, you can begin to putty the entire ceiling, which will finally hide all the remaining minor defects.

The reason for such a high popularity of drywall lies on the surface, because this material is very convenient and solves many problems that cause serious difficulties when using ordinary plaster.

Among the main advantages are:

• The ability to hide the flaws of any home. If you are the owner of a private house, then you are probably familiar with such a problem as the sediment of the walls, as a result of which all the plaster is covered with cracks and crumbles. After that, the repair can be started again.
• This ceiling allows you to harmoniously mount lighting of any type and size.

One of the main advantages is the possibility of additional wall insulation, as well as masking various communications from prying eyes.

• And, of course, design. Drywall allows you to create the most unusual and large-scale variations that find their application in almost any project.

Available options for ceilings and plasterboard ceiling structures:

1. Classic single-level ceilings. They are mainly used for insulation and leveling the ceiling surface.
2. Designs that include 2 or more levels. Even the most simple 2's level structures give the ceiling additional volume and increase its visual perception.

Also noteworthy is various designs on which additional decorative elements are mounted.

The above information is not the only classification of structures, quite often you can find a grouping according to integrated lighting (the presence of spotlights) or the presence of various LED elements, the installation of which is prematurely provided for by the design.

If you are interested in how to make a false ceiling from drywall yourself, then let's figure out a set of tools that will be required during the work.

Ceiling plasterboard sheets (when buying, you should calculate with a margin, with all cutting records).

• PN (28*27 mm) and PP (60*27 mm) profiles.
• Sealing tape
• Anchor wedges
• Building and water levels.
• Self-tapping screws from 25 mm to 35 mm (frequent pitch).
• Putty for GK seams.
• Perforator and screwdriver.
• Dowel-nails.
• A set of spatulas.
• Aluminum rule 2.5 m.
• Reinforcing tape for seams.
• Direct hangers.
• Single-level connectors CRAB.
• Self-tapping screws with a press washer.

This is just a basic set of what you need, depending on the additional tasks, it can expand. It should be noted that if there is excessive humidity in the room, then it is better to purchase moisture-resistant sheets.

Before proceeding with any ceiling work, be sure to complete all operations on the walls (if any are planned) and allow them to dry well

Step by step description of work

The first step is markup. How flat the plane of the ceiling will be and how the overall picture will look depends on how correctly and efficiently you follow the instructions in this paragraph.

Find the lowest point of the ceiling, the level of the ceiling will be adjusted according to it, so the more drops, the more it will drop. To determine, measure the height from the floor at several points (the floor must be flat). Now you need to mark the entire perimeter at the same height, the water level will help us with this. We make marks in each corner and with the help of a paint cord or any long and even object.

As soon as the markup is completely completed, you can proceed with the installation of the frame. We attach the guides to our lines, fasten them to the sealing tape and securely fasten them to the wall. Now you should fix the ceiling profile, but before that you need to mark the places where they will be located.

We apply the marking of transverse and longitudinal profiles

A sheet of drywall has a width of 120 cm, each sheet should have n-th number of profiles, most often there are 3 of them, while the step is 40 cm.

If you additionally put marks on the walls, then you will not have problems finding a profile, when fixing sheets

Next, you can proceed to the embedding of the transverse profiles, here you need to be extremely careful not to get the borders of the profile to the attachment points of the suspensions. With this arrangement of longitudinal profiles, it is enough to fix the transverse ones only at the joints of the sheets. The optimal suspension pitch is 0.5 m.

Installation of the main frame of the structure

The settlement work is over, now we take the suspensions and with the help of anchor wedges we begin their installation, do not forget to use the sealing tape.

At this stage, everything is ready for fastening the longitudinal profiles. Their length is mainly from 3 to 6 meters. Therefore, depending on the size of the room, we cut or connect them to the desired length.

Fasteners should start from the corners of the room, it is better to do it with an assistant. Which should attach the rule to the corner, to the guides, thereby supporting the profile, at this time you must fix it on hangers. With each established profile, the procedure becomes easier.

Installation of transverse profiles is carried out using special crabs. For additional rigidity of the structure, additional fasteners can be used, for example, profile trimmings can be used to fasten the transverse elements to the ceiling.

We install drywall sheets

Here we come to the final stage. Treat the sheets well with a primer. It is best to start fastening from the wall, it is better to leave small indents in case the walls play a little. Fasten the sheets to the profiles with self-tapping screws in increments of approximately 20 cm.

In this article, you learned how to quickly make a high-quality plasterboard suspended ceiling yourself. At this point, the work can be considered finished, it remains only to cover up the seams and putty the entire ceiling.

Of course, installation does not tolerate approximation, and even in a small room you should not do something by eye. Usually in this case a long level is used - it helps to find out which place protrudes above the surface.

If you have a chance to use a laser level, be sure to use it. In this case, you simply walk along the surface of the ceiling with a tape measure, fixing the place where the distance to the ceiling from the laser line will be smaller. This is done if the ceiling needs to be raised high.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling repair: tools

First of all, you prepare the necessary materials and tools.

An example list would be:

• The drywall itself. The standard sheet size is 2500 by 1200 mm. You calculate the surface area, and count how many sheets you need. You can cover the ceiling with sheets in any direction.
• Frame profiles. Such galvanized rails and ceiling profiles.
• Hangers for fastening profiles. They can be straight and suspended, having a wire traction.
• dowels- this is the name of the nails for mounting the frame. Suspensions are attached to the wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws.
• Self-tapping screws - bugs needed to connect directly profiles.
• Conventional self-tapping screws. Directly for the installation of drywall sheets.
• Tools. This is a grinder, a puncher, a screwdriver, a water level, a construction knife, metal scissors will also come in handy.

This list is exemplary, but usually it is with these materials that they undertake to mount the ceiling.

Plasterboard ceiling installation (video)

Plasterboard ceiling installation technology

So, the process scheme will be as follows: marking the ceiling - directly mounting the frame - fixing the plasterboard to the frame - final finishing.

The order of work is as follows:

• First, determine the amount of lowering the ceiling to the main one. The standard distance in this case is 100-200 mm.
• Using a level (or you can use a laser level), mark the lines of the false ceiling, make marks on the walls. Guide profiles must be installed along these lines. The interval between fasteners is 40 cm.
• Marking is carried out for the installation of suspensions. Draw parallel lines across the room, step - 450 mm. At the same time, a pencil mark is made on the first line, the step is 500 mm. The first mark on the second transverse line is 250 mm from the wall, the step of the following marks is 50 cm.
• The third line and other odd lines will be marked as on the first line, and already the fourth and other even lines - as on the second transverse line. It turns out the markup in a checkerboard pattern. This is the rigidity condition of the frame.
• The frame itself can be constructed with suspensions or guide profiles in the form of the letter "G".

Installation of suspensions on the ceiling goes to the marked points with dowels or self-tapping screws. Then you need to fix the carrier profiles. Their length should be equal to the starting frame, the one that is placed around the perimeter of the room.

Measure the width of the room, subtract 10 mm from this value - this is the length of the profiles.

The bearing profiles are inserted into the suspensions, fixed one by one with self-tapping screws. Horizontal profiles - very important point, use the level.

Installing drywall on the ceiling: the finishing stage

For the strength of the frame, there are few transverse profiles; it must be strengthened with longitudinal elements. To do this, cut the material into pieces of 400 mm. Fasten these pieces to galvanized crossbars, step - 500 mm, crabs are used as fasteners.

After the frame is ready, you need to sheathe it:

• Sheathing the frame alone is almost impossible, for this you need two pairs of hands. The first person mounts, the other one holds the sheet itself.
• The sheets are installed close to the walls, butt to each other, already across the longitudinal profiles.
• Drywall is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, step - 200 mm.
• The joints of the GKL are glued with a sickle, this is necessary for the evenness of the surface after puttying. Process the screwing points of the screws.

Drywall is a natural material, the name speaks for itself - gypsum + cardboard, it is safer and more environmentally friendly than plastic structures. It is always appropriate and reasonable; such repairs are available for ordinary apartments.

Plasterboard ceiling installation instructions: nuances

There are several universal tips that are not of the last importance. Take metal, not plastic dowels.

Electric wires will be laid according to the scheme, which is drawn in advance. They are isolated in a special corrugated pipe.

Always check the correct operation of electrical communications before sheathing the frame. Connect sockets and lamps, check their operation.

If the ceiling is lowered no more than 20 cm, use standard hangers. If the distance is greater, use segments of the guide profile together.

Plasterboard ceiling installation (video)

It doesn’t matter if your home is located in a point, for example, Ilyichevsk, a metropolis or a small village - today drywall is a democratic finishing material. It serves for a long time, it is not difficult to work with it, it is safe for human health.

If suddenly you decide to do the dismantling of plasterboard ceilings, then you can deal with this alone.

Attention, only TODAY!

GCR sheets are a universal material that combines a range of consumer, aesthetic, quality and performance characteristics. Affordable cost environmentally pure material, perfectly flat ceiling surface with proper installation, no additional costs for leveling the surface in the traditional way (plaster, putty, primer) and unlimited design possibilities - the main arguments "for" mastering the instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands and give the room a beautiful appearance.

The modern range of GKL sheets will allow you to implement any repair and construction tasks on the base surface of the ceiling. In order to perform the installation of drywall on the ceiling with your own hands with high quality, you need to choose the right plasterboard sheets. Depending on the additives used, all drywall sheets are classified into 3 types:

1. GKLO (fire-resistant).
2. GCR (regular).
3. GKLV (moisture resistant).

GKLO are used mainly in bank safes or boiler rooms, and for residential premises GKLV is used - for the bathroom and kitchen, as well as GKL - for any dry rooms, including the bedroom. In addition to the type of plasterboard sheets, before attaching drywall to the ceiling on your own, you must choose the right sheet thickness. For decorative elements, the optimal thickness is 6 mm, for the ceiling - the range is 9.0-9.5 mm.

Traditional installation technologies - Giprok, Knauf - imply the installation of a plasterboard ceiling using special mounting profiles: wide ceiling CD60 and narrow guides UD17 (27). In addition, fasteners will be required to fasten the sheets to the ceiling:

• suspension spokes/mounting plates;
• crabs;
• fleas (small screws with a drill);
• screws for metal.

With a distance between the profile and the ceiling of up to 13 centimeters, mounting plates are used, if less, suspension spokes. To fasten the profile perpendicularly, it is necessary to use crabs, GKL sheets - with 20-30 mm screws. An important parameter when choosing fasteners is the material of the structure to which the frame is attached. If the plasterboard ceiling frame is attached to a stone surface (brick, concrete), then it is recommended to use dowels with a diameter of 6 mm, a length of 40 mm, self-tapping screws are sufficient for wood or clay with wood.

Mounting on a surface made of loose materials (silicate blocks, etc.) is carried out using dowels 80 mm long, 8 mm in diameter.

For right choice type of GKL sheets, it is imperative to examine the surface: for rooms with high humidity and basements, moisture-resistant drywall is recommended, for arches - special arched, for residential - standard sheets. To prepare the surface and fix the ceiling, it is necessary to prepare the tools:

• drill, perforator;
• construction roulette;
• falsetto construction knife;
• hydraulic level, building level;
• scissors for metal, grinder;
• a hammer;
• fishing line / cord, upholstery cord;
• spatulas (20 cm, typesetting 10 cm);
• construction mixer (corolla).

When working in an equipped room, it is necessary to take out interior items or protect the surface from dust with a film. Since working with GKL sheets is associated with a significant amount of dust, it is recommended to protect Decoration Materials from pollution: cover textured wallpaper with a cloth or film using masking tape to fix the material, flooring cover with foil.

• measurement of base surface parameters;
• determination of the horizontal level of the room;
• marking for fastening the profile according to the drawings.

The most crucial stage of work is the determination of the horizontal level, since in practice the floor slabs of typical houses “from builders” are rarely perfectly horizontal. Most often, after measuring the parameters, it turns out that the floors are laid with an inclination. In this case, finishing the ceiling with drywall begins with determining the lowest corner of the ceiling: first you need to measure the ceiling-floor distance of each corner and determine the lowest point. Be sure to apply marks both in the corners and in places of visual "bumps" and check the horizontal level with a cord stretched diagonally. After determining the starting point for lowering the ceiling, it is necessary to mark the profile fastening in accordance with the drawing:

1. Mark along the length in 40 cm increments. To obtain parallel lines, it is recommended to mark on both sides of the room.
2. Connect the dots and get a striped pattern on the base surface.
3. On the first line, mark in increments of 50 cm, on the second - 25 cm (chess order).

Further, the marking for the mounting profile is repeated from the first line while maintaining the checkerboard pattern. At the preparatory stage, the marking of the places for mounting lighting fixtures and the chasing of the ceiling (walls) for wiring is carried out.

All hangers must be fixed on the base surface in accordance with the markings: mounting hangers, knitting needles with an eye and a swivel hanger. When preparing the CD profile for installation, it must be taken into account that the length of the product must be approximately 10 mm shorter than the length of the marking line. The UD profile is installed around the perimeter, then it is necessary to insert CD profiles into it, orienting inside the mounting hangers.

It is imperative at all stages of fastening to control the exact horizontal position of the products with the help of a level, the extra edges of the suspension can be bent. To strengthen the base, you can connect the CD profiles with specially cut pieces 40 cm long and crab fasteners. The "folk" method of strengthening the frame, which is used by the craftsmen, is to use "shoes" from profiles bent with the letter "G".

To fix the ceiling structure according to complex curly drawings, it is recommended to prepare the profile in advance: make cuts with metal scissors step 6-8 mm opposite each other.

Thanks to this technology, the profile will be easy to bend to give complex ceiling shapes and create multi-level structures.

The frequency of making cuts is adjusted individually: the more complex the design of the plasterboard ceiling according to the drawing (project), the more often the recommended distance (step) between the cuts. After fastening the profiles, wiring and electrical work are carried out. In addition, to improve the heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties of the ceiling, glass wool can be laid.

GKL sheets must first be prepared: 1) mark the sheet; 2) cut standard sizes products in accordance with the drawings using a construction knife; 3) gently hit the notch on the other side of the sheet. Subject to the sequence of preparation, the GKL sheet will burst along the notch, and a special planer is used for high-quality processing of the cut.

The main condition for high-quality fastening of the material is to provide for the entry of all edges of the material into the profile at the stage of preparing the GKL sheets. Therefore, it is recommended to check the parameters of the frame beforehand at the stage of preparing the GKL sheets for installation. When fastening GKL sheets, it is recommended to observe a gap of 2-3 mm and use a screwdriver with a limiter to properly screw in the self-tapping screws. GKL sheets are fastened to the profile with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm.

When doing work on your own, you must follow the basic rule of how to make a plasterboard ceiling with high quality: it is ideal to screw in self-tapping screws. Proper fastening of self-tapping screws is the optimal location of the cap: do not dig deep into the GKL sheet, but do not protrude on the surface either.

At the last stage of work, puttying is performed with special compounds using a serrated film. Be sure to putty the screw heads, it is recommended to use special mixtures for sealing joints, and after sealing, you can putty the entire surface. Depending on the design intent, after the putty has dried, you can apply a layer of paint, glue wallpaper or tile the surface.