Caring for a monstera aerial roots. Irrigation water requirements. Flower hygiene. Types of monstera and their description with a photo

Interesting 12.02.2018
Interesting

In order to grow a brightly flowering plant in your flower garden, you should follow the subtleties of care. Gardeners love colorful plants. The subtleties of the content of large classes of colors are the same. In this collection, the authors intended to present some of the articles in order to avoid mistakes when growing an unusual flower. Any flowering creature requires individual care. It seems correct to understand for further procedures, to which species your plant is defined.

How to properly care for a monstera?

Lighting, temperature regime and watering...Because she comes from rainforest, then the conditions of its maintenance are due to significant humidity and high air temperature.

Temporarily, Monstera can painlessly endure drops and drops in temperature. But the optimum temperature for the winter period is 16-18°C. The higher the air temperature throughout the year, the faster the vine will grow, the leaves become larger and more patterned.

Monstera refers to shade-tolerant plants, so you can place it in a bright, semi-dark place and even in the shade. True, in this case, the indoor monstera stops growing, as if freezing, but does not die. A powerful and beautiful specimen can only be grown in good light conditions. In low light, monstera leaves are not so delicate, the holes on them are small, and the leaves themselves grow small, so the best option is to place the monstera in a bright place without direct sunlight.

It is very important to support high humidity air, and even with dust settling on large green leaves, you will have to fight. While the plant is small, you should wash it in the shower weekly. The leaves of an adult plant should be periodically wiped with a damp cloth and polished.

In summer, the monstera is watered regularly and plentifully, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. Excess moisture in the soil is undesirable, this often leads to fungal leaf spots. In winter, moisture is reduced, especially with a lack of heat. For watering and spraying use warm, settled, lime-free water.

In the spring-summer period, it is necessary to regularly feed the plant (every two weeks). If the monstera continues to grow in winter, then it is necessary to fertilize in winter, once a month. If the air temperature drops, feeding is stopped.

Planting / transplanting monstera

In order for the monstera to grow properly and be healthy, the following conditions must be provided to the plant:

    Temperature. This plant is very thermophilic - do not allow the temperature to drop below 17 degrees in the room. In winter, this rule can not be strictly adhered to. Optimal temperature:
  • in summer from 20 to 25 degrees
  • in winter from 10 to 18 degrees
At low temperatures monstera will stop growing. Lighting. Suitable for her will be bright lighting, but without exposure to direct sunlight. You can stop in partial shade. If the monstera noticeably slowed down growth, and the cuts of the leaves began to form unevenly, then this is the first sign of a lack of light. Humidity. Don't forget that this flower is tropical. The humidity level should be slightly above normal - spray the leaves with slightly warm water. Between air temperature and humidity there must be a direct proportional dependence: the colder, the less moisture, and vice versa. Do not place the flower near batteries and other heating devices, otherwise the leaves will turn black and dry. To combat dust, you can wipe the flower with a damp cloth. Space. Monsters tend to grow quickly and grow very strongly. The height of the plant can reach 5 m. Therefore, try to find a place where the flower will not be crowded, and it will be able to grow freely. Earth. Monstera should be planted in soil consisting of turf and peat soil, sand and humus. Well the plant takes root in the soil with the addition of soil.

Comprehensive care

Monstera blooms very beautifully with white flowers similar to a closed lily. In greenhouse conditions, fruits may even appear. Since this is one of the house plants, many flower growers know how to properly care for the monstera so that the leaves are even and large and flowers appear. Do you have your own secrets for caring for this flower? For those who are just about to plant a monstera, the following tips will come in handy:

    Proper watering. The plant is extremely moisture-loving. Beginning with early spring and ending late autumn, carry out abundant watering. However, the soil should dry out between waterings. In winter, it is better to reduce the level of moisture. Don't let the soil dry out completely. During the growth period, the plant requires more frequent watering. Do not use cold or tap water. The best option- settled water at room temperature. Top dressing. If you noticed that the leaves of your monstera began to turn yellow, but wilting and rotting are not observed, then you should feed the flower. To do this, you can use complex fertilizers. Feed a young plant every two to three weeks. More adult (from 4 years old) - as needed. Also, every year, renew the top earthen layer of large plants. It is best to fall asleep humus. Care of aerial roots. The presence of aerial roots in Monstera is normal. Do not remove these roots. Try to guide them closer to the ground and also provide them with extra support to keep them moist. Pests and their control. Most often, monsters are affected:
  • Thrips. At the same time, multiple light dots appear on the leaves from above, and on reverse side pest colonies can be seen. To combat thrips, spray the flower with an insecticide.
  • Shields. Small brown plaques appear, the leaves dry quickly and fall off. For destruction - wipe the leaves and stems with a soapy cloth, and then spray until completely destroyed with a 0.15% actellic solution.
  • Spider mite. A cobweb appears, the leaves are sluggish and lifeless. Wiping with a soapy sponge and regular spraying will help to cope with the pest. If the lesion is very severe, then use Actellik solution.
  • Mealy bugs. Young shoots and leaves are most susceptible - they shrivel, bend, dry and fall off. Control measures are exactly the same as in the case of scale insects.
  • Full and large-scale yellowing of the leaves - excess moisture
  • Gradual yellowing of the leaf, from the tip - lack of nutrition
  • The lower part of the stem is very bare, and the leaves are small - lack of light
  • The leaves in the lower part of the trunk dry and fall massively (partial exposure is natural for an adult plant) - the temperature is too high
  • Brown spots on the leaf - lack of moisture.

Monstera transplant and rejuvenation


A young plant under the age of 4 years requires an annual transplant. Adult - once every 2-3 years. Transplant the monstera into larger pots and tubs. A cramped space can ruin a flower.

Prepare the soil for transplanting by mixing humus, sand, peat and soddy soils. Ratios: 1:1:1:3. You can add soil.

Plant rejuvenation

Have you noticed that with age, the monstera very often loses its decorative appearance, dropping all the leaves from the bottom of the trunk? What did you do in this case?

In order to return the flower to its former beauty, you can rejuvenate or renew it. In the spring, cut off about 30 cm from the top of the monstera (it should have at least 3 leaves) and lower it into the water, providing support. This plant is very good at rooting in water. After the container is completely filled with roots, transplant into a pot that is larger than the volume of the roots. Further care is carried out as for an ordinary monstera.

How monstera breeds


Monstera can be propagated in three ways:

  1. Seeds. You need to sow them in the soil and leave in a warm and bright room. In about a month, the seeds will sprout. After 2 years, the plant will already have about 9 leaves.
  2. cuttings. Use lateral or stem shoots. Plant the cutting in a pot with drainage at the bottom, in the soil of humus and sand. Cover the pot with glass, water twice a day. As soon as the flower gives roots, transplant it into a large container.
  3. Air layers. The simplest type of reproduction. The layer must have an air root and a leaf. Plant it as an independent plant.

Caring for a small plant that has given roots is no different from the usual care for a young monstera.

A well-groomed plant will delight the eye and enrich the room with oxygen. For painstaking work on yourself, the monstera will reward you with chic leaves and beautiful flowers,

Monstera flower attracts with its grandeur and mystery. The name itself sounds even somehow intimidating, as it seems to some. Monstera is not from the word "monster", but from the word monstruosus, which means "bizarre" in Latin.



Monstera flower in the photo

Monstera is an ornamental deciduous plant from the aroid family. The genus of these flowers is represented by perennial herbaceous vines with thick stems, very large leaves and one single inflorescence that resembles a corncob under a white blanket. When it ripens, it turns into a berry, and edible.


Where does the monstera flower grow

AT vivo the monstera plant grows in the tropics of Mexico and Guatemala. In the 19th century, it was brought to Southeast Asia, where it also successfully took root. In nature, this is a huge evergreen liana with large spreading leaves that hang down like a large fan.

At home, it is customary to grow an attractive monstera.

Monstera home care

In the care of the monster is very unpretentious. The main task of the owners is to try to bring the conditions of the tropical guest as close as possible to her natural environment a habitat. Monstera tolerates even strong deviations from optimal conditions. The only way she can react to a change of scenery or the forgetfulness of the owners is to stop blooming. This is not a significant loss, since all its beauty is not in flowering.

  • Best to put flower pot with monstera to warm rooms facing east and west.
  • Monstera is unpretentious to light. It grows well even in partial shade. However, only with sufficient diffused lighting will the leaves be juicy green and carved. If the plant is constantly in the shade, then the crown will shrink. In winter, the plant needs additional lighting, otherwise the monstera will stop growing.
  • The optimum temperature of the content is 18 degrees. Precise observance of the temperature regime is not required, since the monstera perfectly tolerates climate fluctuations and is not afraid of drafts.
  • Because monstera is a tropical plant, it loves water. Abundant watering is allowed. Do not over-moisten the soil. It will be enough to water once every 4 days.
  • Spraying is an essential element of flower care. It is advisable to periodically wash the leaves or wipe with a damp cloth.
  • Top dressing is carried out depending on the condition of the flower. Usually, best time March-September is considered for top dressing, during the period of active growth.
  • Monstera needs support, as it can bend or break under the weight of the leaves.
  • The flower develops better in free ground. So adventitious roots take root better.
  • Young individuals that are less than 4 years old are important to replant every year. A plant older than 5 years is transplanted every 4 years.

Video: Monster care

Monstera flower: reproduction at home

Monstera is propagated by lateral offspring in March - June, apical and stem cuttings, which take root when high temperature(up to 25 degrees).

Reproduction by cuttings

Held from March to June. Side branches or the top of the plant are cut off. It is important that the cut segment has one mature leaf and aerial roots. It is better to cut off short cuttings, they give roots faster. The cut points are sprinkled with crushed coal.

The cuttings are rooted in prepared soil or (temporarily) in a mixture of peat and sand. Do not put the cutting in water.

Monstera is a beautiful tropical plant that will bring comfort to your apartment. Is it worth it to become its owner, it's up to you.

General information: Monstera - evergreen tropical plant, liana. AT natural environment found in tropical forests America, southern Brazil and Mexico.

The name "monstera" is consonant with the word monstrum - a monster, which can be deciphered as bizarre, frightening and huge. This is how you can describe the appearance of the monstera.

It has rather large and beautiful sheets of rich green color, resembling a heart in shape. Symmetrical slots are located along their perimeter. The leaves are smooth and shiny, reaching one meter in size.

This genus includes about 50 species. Monstera flowers are white, and the fruits look like an ear of corn. They taste very similar to pineapple and can be eaten. But at home, the monstera may not bloom at all.

Breeders love it for its gorgeous dark green leaves, not for its flowers.

Monstera from the family of vines, therefore, to give it a vertical shape and save space in the room, use special supports.

Types of monster






Monstera - home care

The essence of home care is to bring room conditions as close as possible to those familiar to her in nature. It is not whimsical, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Requires regular watering and temperature control.



Optimal lighting: Indoors, it is better to place the monstera in the east or west, where the light is the brightest and most diffused, but not scalding. In the north, she will have little light, and in the south, there may be an excess of it.

By the appearance of the plant, one can judge whether it has enough light: if the leaves are beautiful, with deep cuts and rich color, then the conditions are suitable. If there are small leaves and weakened thin aerial roots, apparently there is not enough light.

Temperature: The ideal temperature is 15-20 degrees. If the temperature environment higher, the plant grows actively. If it drops below 12 degrees, growth stops altogether, so reduce watering a little during this period. Beware of drafts.

Soil and humidity: The soil should consist of humus mixed with sand. At the bottom of a fairly large pot, they create high-quality drainage. Monstera loves, regular spraying. Do this with settled water at room temperature.

Watering: It is necessary to water with settled water at room temperature, especially abundantly during the growth period - from spring to autumn. Water as soon as the topsoil dries out.

AT winter time the frequency of watering is reduced and watered a few days after the surface of the earth in the pot has dried out.

It is necessary to monitor the excess moisture, otherwise the plant will begin to rot. Too dry soil also has a negative effect.

Transplantation: The younger the plant, the more often it is transplanted. Up to three years, it is necessary to transplant once a year. Also, the earth is added to the pot every year. Older than five years, transplanted 1-2 times in 4 years. As it grows, it requires a pot of ever larger diameter.

Reproduction: Monstera reproduces in several ways:



  • Seeds. For seed germination, a warm, bright room is required. Within a month, a sprout will sprout with the first leaves, but it does not yet have characteristic cuts. Upon reaching six months, full-fledged adult leaves will appear. Further care is simple - cupping and annual transplantation.
  • cuttings. Monstera is propagated by cuttings from spring to early summer. To do this, cut off the sprout with a couple of sheets. The cut on the plant is sprinkled with charcoal. The stalk is planted in a pot under glass. It is necessary to water 2 times a day. As soon as the plant takes root, it is transplanted into another pot.
  • Top. cut off top part and placed in water for rooting. Boiled water is used and often changed. To prevent the sprout from rotting, you can still pre-dissolve activated charcoal in water. The more roots grow, the less monstera will spend on the appearance of the first leaves.

Top dressing: During the growth period, the monstera is fed several times a month. If the transplant was not done, the top layer of soil is removed, replaced with fresh soil with fertilizer. AT winter period no need to fertilize. Such actions will adversely affect the condition of the flower.

Pests: Monstera is quite resistant to pests. Infection occurs due to nearby plants or improper care.

Main pests:

  • mealybug - resembles cotton balls, located on the lower part of the sheets, because of it the plant loses leaves, stops growing. The first thing to do when these characteristic signs are found is to isolate the plant and spray it a couple of times with a special solution from sucking pests.
  • spider mite - little spider of red color. Pale spots on the leaves and their subsequent death indicate the presence of this pest. Removed with a specialized preparation. For prevention, they are often sprayed with settled water.

Diseases: Diseases are often associated with non-compliance with the rules of care and watering.

  • If the leaves are dry and falling off, it's too hot. Move away from sources of heat or sunlight and spray more frequently with water.
  • In winter, the stems can rot - a consequence of waterlogging the soil.
  • Leaves turn yellow, dry, spots appear on top Brown color- Moisture is not enough.
  • Small and faded leaves - not enough light.
  • Abundant loss of leaves occurs - a lack of nutrients.

Care Difficulties: There were no particular difficulties in care. The main thing is to maintain high humidity in the room and prevent drafts.

It tolerates transplantation well, adapts quickly and resumes active growth. The only problem is her pretty big size, so do not undertake to grow monstera in small rooms.

Monstera is a very beautiful ornamental liana plant. Monstera is native to the humid tropics. It is in such a hot and humid climate This plant blooms and constantly bears fruit. At home, creating such a climate is extremely problematic, rather impossible, and therefore flowering in a standard apartment room is a very rare occurrence.

Description of the monstera plant

They call it a bizarre monster for a reason: it has many aerial roots, and shiny, large, leathery leaves with holes make it look unique and extraordinary.

In everyday life, this plant is often called a crybaby, because of the ability to predict the weather: before the rain, large drops of moisture appear on its leaves, each of which can reach up to 30 centimeters or more.

The word monstera itself is translated in several meanings, which at the same time have almost the same meaning:

  • "bizarre";
  • "yoke";
  • "amazing".

Is it possible to keep a flower at home? There are opinions that it is impossible to start a monster at home, there are several reasons for this.

Type and features of the monstera flower










Those people who believe in the existing superstitions and signs consider it dangerous for the house to keep and grow this plant. The first reason for this superstition is the very name of the plant "monstera", which, in the opinion of some, comes from the word "monster".

It is for this flower that the place is only, for example, in the office, at work, but not in the house. Another superstition says that all the negativity that is in the house, the monster absorbs into itself, and if everything is fine, it also absorbs this energy, highlighting the negative.

Such misconceptions, not backed up scientifically, should not affect the desire to have this wonderful liana plant. It is only known that the flower does not affect health in any way, moreover, even for allergy sufferers don't be afraid of her.

The only danger of monstera is that the leaves contain microscopic needle-like formations, which, if they get on the mucous membranes, can cause a burning sensation.

To avoid such troubles, it is enough not to let pets or children chew the leaves. Otherwise, the flower will bring only joy and beauty to the house.

Monstera: why you can not keep at home

The fear of growing this flower is based only on myths, legends and signs. Monstera is energetic vampire absorbing human energy, it breaks the aura and negatively affects the casual body.

All this destroys a person’s career, personal life, and badly affects health. Because of such prejudices, many unmarried girls attribute their failures in their personal lives to this flower.

After nightfall, the plant begins to absorb oxygen in large quantities, almost like an adult. If a person sleeps in the same room, then you may not wake up. Of course, it's fiction.

Not a single houseplant is capable of absorbing oxygen in such quantities. The emergence of this myth is explained by the opinion that at night, plants, absorbing oxygen, emit carbon dioxide, and during daylight hours, everything happens the other way around.

This is true - plants breathe around the clock. But during daylight hours, photosynthesis also occurs, and plants emit much more oxygen than they absorb.

This myth tells that monstera is a poisonous plant. Poisonous flower juice, which, getting on the mucous membranes of a person, can cause severe poisoning, and even death. But this will happen only if you bite off or bite a leaf of a plant.

Then it is difficult to explain why in India and Australia people take great pleasure in eating monstera fruit. Residents even specially grow monstera for further eating its fruits.

Useful properties of a flower

But in reality, if you try not to pay attention to signs and legends, this is a beautiful and fairly harmless plant. And it brings much more real benefit than intangible harm, namely:

Of course, if you really want to start and grow a monster in the house, then you can keep a flower at home, this is everyone's personal choice. Someone will be afraid of legends and myths and will not take risks, while someone is completely indifferent to such signs, and will happily enjoy this bizarre plant.

For some, the very name of the flower causes misunderstanding and association with a monster, someone sees someone's frightening silhouettes in the huge bizarre leaves of this plant. Especially at night, people with a rich imagination can easily see instead of vines big leaves, similar to hands with fingers. And some will find it funny.

Huge fans of dark green openwork leaves on long petioles, cords of aerial roots on a thick stem - this is what the monstera looks like. A plant that superstitious people are afraid of and that flower growers who are well acquainted with it love. How not to love this miracle of tropical nature. After all, monstera creates harmony and comfort around itself, purifies and ionizes the air, and, as experts say, it helps to develop intelligence. It is no coincidence that these creepers plant trees in schools, others educational institutions and offices. At home, monstera will also be appropriate, it is a very easy-to-care and propagate plant.

Plant with openwork leaves

Monstera is a typical representative of the South American tropics. AT wild nature this vine grows up to 50 meters. And its carved leaves reach a meter wide. To climb trees, the liana grows strong aerial roots, which, descending from the branches, reach the ground. If the monstera has lost contact with the soil, thanks to the air processes, it will be fixed on the trunk where it lives and become an epiphyte (a plant without land).

Monstera - a typical representative of the South American tropics, the length of the vine can be 50 meters

Monstera leaves, large, shiny and leathery, deserve special attention. They are located on long petioles and are equipped with an amazing "carved" pattern. They have elegantly cut edges, and sometimes neat symmetrical holes are punched. Not only the appearance of monster foliage is interesting, but also its internal structure. The lateral veins of the plant are equipped with special organs - hydiators. With increasing humidity, they release droplets of a transparent liquid. The monstera seems to be crying. It has long been observed that weeping begins before the rain. So Monstera is a natural barometer.


Monstera has gorgeous leaves with delicately cut edges and neat holes.

AT natural conditions liana blooms. A large (30 cm) yellowish, cream or lilac inflorescence is very similar to a corn cob, covered with a petal like a veil.


Monstera inflorescence looks like a corncob

The monstera fruit ripens for almost a year. In a variety of a plant called delicacy, the ripe cob is edible, inside its juicy pulp, its taste resembles something between a banana and pineapple. But in captivity, monsters rarely bloom and do not bear fruit.


In our area you will not taste the monstera, and the inhabitants South America grow liana because of its juicy and fragrant fruits

Monstera is often confused with the split-leaved philodendron variety. These plants are the closest relatives, they are from the aroid family. But philodendron leaves are more elongated and pointed at the end. The most important difference between monstera and philodendron is juice. If you want to make sure which plant is in front of you, break off or cut a shoot or leaf. Monstera has clear juice, while Philodendron has milky juice.

Monstera is one of the most undemanding, and therefore popular plants in indoor floriculture. They are loved for their original greenery and fast growth. At home, the liana, of course, is ten times less than in nature, but it can grow up to 4 meters. Not everyone can comfortably accommodate such a giant at home. But in public places, monstera is a frequent inhabitant. It does well in vertical gardening, looks great in tubs or stylish planters, standing apart from other flowers. It is believed that monstera not only heals the atmosphere, but also absorbs negative energy.


Monstera heals the atmosphere in the room, absorbs negative energy and is simply pleasing to the eye.

But the openwork monstera also has opponents. Some of them believe that creepers have no place in the house. This superstition has a long history. In the 18th century, when Europeans began to settle latin america, there were rumors that giant killer plants live in the jungle. The pioneers found the remains of animals and people, riddled with stems and roots. They said that the plant allegedly attacks living beings. But the truth is that the plant sprouted through someone who had already died, lost in the jungle.

Such tales have done a disservice. An innocent creeper was called monstera - monstrum, which means monster in Latin. But according to other sources, the name of the plant comes from the word monstrosus - bizarre or amazing. This definition is best suited to an exotic liana. Its foliage creates bizarre patterns, and the plant, familiar to flower growers for more than three centuries, still surprises and delights.

Delicious, oblique, thin and other monsters

About 50 species of monstera are described in nature, but only a few of them moved into houses. Others remained in greenhouses and winter gardens. Let's get acquainted with some representatives of domesticated monsters.

  • Monstera delicacy, which is also called attractive and tasty, is the leader in popularity. At home, in equatorial America, it is grown for delicious fruits. In harsh climates, this creeper adorns greenhouses and rooms. In greenhouse conditions, this monstera stretches to 12 meters, in room conditions only 3. The creeper has fleshy dense stems. Heart-shaped leathery leaves are large (60 cm), strongly dissected, with lobes and holes. This variety can also bloom when kept in an apartment.
  • Monstera delicacy has a variegated white-and-white form, it is also called alba. It does not grow as fast as the green one and is a little more whimsical. But these shortcomings can be reconciled due to the incredibly beautiful leaves. They are the same "lace", but are also painted with white patterns, which can take up half the sheet. And the older the plant becomes, the more white marks. In the variegated variety, the stem is also multi-colored.
  • Variegated marble monstera combines yellow and green leaves and stems.
  • Monstera Borziga is bred on the basis of a delicacy. But this is a more miniature liana. The leaves are smaller, no more than 30 cm, the shoots are thinner. Grows well and quickly indoors.
  • Monstera adanson (aka pierced or full of holes) comes from the Brazilian jungle. This is a vine about 8 meters long with large (up to 50 cm) thin ovate leaves. A lot of small holes are randomly “punched” on them. The plant blooms reluctantly. In room conditions, monstera adanson is successfully grown, but so far it is not common.
  • Monstera oblique or unequal comes from the tropics of Brazil and Guiana. This climbing vine has relatively small (20 cm) asymmetrical oval leaves on short (12 cm) petioles. The inflorescence is only 4 cm long. The plant is cultivated as an indoor plant, but specimens from the greenhouse look better and more spectacular.
  • Monstera doubtful (dubia) is a rare variety. This delicate miniature creeper has whole young leaves with a silvery ornament along the veins. They resemble the foliage of scindapsus. With age, they turn green and become perforated.
  • Monstera pointed is a compact vine - 3 meters. The leaves are dense with a pointed end at first whole. Small cuts appear only in an adult plant. Despite the unpretentiousness, it is rarely grown in home floriculture.
  • Monstera thin - a very rare liana. It is small with delicate openwork leaves. In young plants, they are heart-shaped, without cuts. In adults - pinnately dissected. The plant is undemanding, but grows very slowly.

Types and names of the flower in the photo

Monstera thin Monstera variegated alba Monstera adanson (pierced or full of holes) Monstera borsiga Monstera dubious (dubia) Monstera oblique (unequal-sided) Monstera delicacy (attractive and tasty) Monstera variegated marble Monstera pointed

Video: acquaintance with the variegated monstera

Conditions for creepers (table)

Season Lighting Humidity Temperature
Spring and summer Bright, diffused light. Can grow in partial shade.
The best place for monstera is east or west windows. On the south side, you need to put the plant away from the window or shade, especially at noon. Otherwise, there may be burns, and the leaves will become pale. On the north - the light may not be enough. Then the leaves will become small, and there will be no characteristic cuts.
Moderate, at the level of 50-60%.
In hot weather, spray the leaves with tepid water from time to time.
Moderate, 20-25 degrees. Does not tolerate drafts, sudden changes in temperature.
Autumn and winter If the monstera is placed in a shady place, add artificial lighting. In the shade and with a short light day, the plant stops growing. Moderate, not less than 60%.
When kept warm, spray the plant regularly. The warmer the room, the more often water procedures for monstera.
Moderate, slightly cold. Protect heating appliances from hot air, but do not allow cooling below +12.
At temperatures up to +16, the plant hibernates and does not grow.

For vines, the purity of its large carved leaves. And if the dusty monstera is also sprayed, it will become a real spotted monster.

Why you need to dust

  • Dust closes the pores on the leaves, and this interferes with gas exchange with the environment.
  • It forms a film that slows down the process of photosynthesis.
  • Dust can contain and accumulate substances harmful to the plant.
  • It can hide traces of insect pests.

So rub monstera leaves regularly. It is better in the morning, so that the plant dries out before night. Wipe the leaves with a soft damp cloth. Before that, to facilitate cleaning, you can spray monstera.

For greater beauty, you can give the foliage a gloss. Polishing products are sold in specialized stores, it is better to take in aerosol packaging. If you do not want to use the drug from the store, try folk remedies.

Flower growers are advised to use beer, a weak solution of vinegar or milk for polishing. Arm yourself with a cloth, choose a polishing agent and proceed. Young tender foliage should not be touched. And polish adult leaves carefully, without pressing hard, so as not to injure. Such cleaning will make the plant not only attractive, but healthy.


Shiny monstera leaves are an indicator of plant health

Planting and transplanting monstera at home

For the active growth of beautiful leaves, Monstera needs nutritious and at the same time loose and porous, acid-neutral soil. Monstera soil mix options:

  • for 2 shares of sod land, one share of sand, peat and humus land each;
  • equally leafy earth, high-moor peat, split bark mixed with chopped moss and half a share of perlite or coarse sand;
  • ready-made shop primer for saintpaulias with the addition of perlite or coconut fiber.

Repotting a young plant

Young monsters need an annual change of the pot. They're picking up fast green mass, so they grow out of the old container. Pot for young plant, who has not yet gained weight, it is not difficult to choose. Almost anyone will do, you just need to be guided by the rule: the diameter of the new container should be 2–3 cm larger than the old one. Liana does not need a too high or wide pot. Choose approximately the same height and diameter. Before planting, install a support for the monstera: sticks or a column.

  1. Before planting, sterilize the soil substrate, drainage and pot.
  2. At the bottom of the pot, pour a drainage layer (about 1/5 of the volume) (expanded clay, broken brick, gravel, perlite, foam plastic crumbs).
  3. Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, being careful not to scatter the earthen ball.
  4. Inspect the roots, if there are damaged, remove them.
  5. Place an earthen ball in a new container in the center. Place a support nearby.
  6. Carefully fill in the new soil and lightly tamp it down.
  7. Water the plant, put it in a permanent place, spray it.
  8. A transplant for a monstera is stressful, but wet air help you adapt.

Monstera is quite capable of getting along with other vines. For example, philodendron and scindapsus can become its neighbors. Growing in the same pot, they will make up an original ensemble. When choosing companions for the monstera, consider the features of their maintenance and care, they should be similar.


Designers have created special pots for the monster, replicating the intricate aerial roots of the plant.

How to transplant an adult monstera

Adult creepers (over 4 years old) are recommended to be replanted every two years. The larger the volume of land, the larger the monstera will grow. For an adult plant, you have to take an extensive (about 20 liters) pot for growth. It can be 6–8 cm higher than the previous one. Preference should be given to ceramic containers. They are heavier and more stable, they will not roll over in such a massive plant. The pot must be wide so that the air roots of the monstera can reach the soil. Take care of the support for the plant in advance. It is installed during transplantation. Alone, transplanting a tall monster is unlikely to succeed, so find an assistant.

  1. Before transplanting, water the monstera well so that the earth ball is completely wet and the roots become elastic.
  2. Prepare and decontaminate potting mix, drainage, and pot.
  3. At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and install a support.
  4. Gently run a knife or spatula along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the overgrown roots.
  5. If the roots have grown into the drainage holes, cut them off.
  6. Get a monstera with an earthy clod from an old pot (you may have to stand on a chair for this, holding the plant by the stem, and your assistant will remove the pot).
  7. Transfer the plant to a new pot, set it in the center and gradually cover the distance between the walls and the earthen clod with soil, lightly tamp it down.
  8. Pour the soil around the circumference, wait for it to settle, and add more. But do not try to fill the entire pot to the brim, so that later it would be more convenient to change the top layer.

Every year the monstera transplant becomes more and more difficult. And instead, they only change the top layer (5–6 cm) of soil in a pot. AT new land for nutrition, humus or other nutritional components must be added.

Stands and supports for indoor flower

In nature, the monstera finds its own support. Liana braids tree trunks, climbing higher towards the sun. It is held on the trunk, like tentacles, by aerial roots. At home, the grower should take care of the support for the monstera. Without it, it will not be possible to grow a harmonious and healthy plant. Heavy leaves will first tilt the stem, and then it will not withstand this weight and will break. Support will be needed when the monstera has not yet reached half a meter. If you notice that the stem of the plant has deviated from the vertical, it's time to take action.


This monstera has already managed to bend the stem, now it will be very difficult to straighten it

Supports for creepers - sticks wrapped in coconut fiber - can be found in flower shops. But they are not the best option for monstera. The fiber does not retain moisture, and its layer is usually very thin. And for the monstera to be fixed on the support, it is necessary to grow into it with aerial roots.

Better support can be made by hand.

  1. Hollow cut plastic pipe(select the diameter and length, commensurate with the size of the plant) drill holes - there are more holes along the entire length.
  2. Install a pipe in a pot where you plant the monstera.
  3. Through the top, pour expanded clay and sand into the pipe to the level of the soil, this is the prevention of decay.
  4. Mix sphagnum moss with peat and fill the pipe to the top.
  5. Wrap the support with moistened moss, and on top - with a thin plastic mesh with 1-2 cm cells (mesh stockings can be used).
  6. Fix the mesh with a strong thread or fishing line.
  7. Plant the monstera next to the support.
  8. Water not only the soil in the pot, but also the substrate in the tube through the top. Spray the support like you would the rest of the plant.

This design humidifies the air very well, allows air roots to receive moisture and keeps the monstera stem in an upright position.

You can increase the stability of the supporting structure for monstera. Make parallel holes at the bottom of the pipe and pass strong plastic sticks through them crosswise. Their length should allow the structure to be installed in the spacer.

In addition to the support described above, the monstera is often allowed to lean on pieces of furniture. But it's not very reliable. You can arrange fasteners (wooden lattice or strong twine) for the creeper right on the wall so that it weaves along it. But then it will be more difficult to care for the plant and you can forget about transplanting it. It is unrealistic to remove branched lashes from the wall. Some flower growers use a whole system of different supports. For example, a moss tube in combination with a wooden lattice, for weaving plants, on the wall. Monstera is placed between them, growing both along the wall and along the support.

By the way, delicate and miniature monsters: dubia, thin or oblique - will do without support, they can be grown as ampelous.

Monstera in the interior in the photo

Delicate monstera oblique grows well in the form of an ampelous plant. The support for this monstera is clearly rather weak, and it lacks the outer layer of moss, thanks to which the aerial roots will not bristle so much. green wall It is impossible to grow a large monstera without a reliable support.

Video: monstera transplant

Care: Do's and Don'ts

Caring for a properly growing monstera is easy. This giant creeper prefers to drink plenty of water, not too much food. And will be glad winter holidays and timely haircut.

Watering and feeding

Most monsteras are fast growing vines. Therefore, in spring and summer, when greenery grows, they need good watering. The soil should only dry slightly on top between waterings. It must first be filtered, settled or boiled, and then cooled to room temperature.

In winter, the frequency and volume of watering is reduced. It is not necessary to dry the soil to a state of cracker, keep it slightly moist. The lower the temperature in the room where the monstera stands, the poorer the watering. Waterlogging leads to root rot.

Monstera is fed quite rarely, about once every three weeks. And only during growth. You can use liquid mineral fertilizers for ornamental plants. Prepare the solution twice as weakly as it says in the instructions. You can give the monster organic. Pour a weak solution of mullein, but beware: it has an unpleasant odor. Now there are also odorless fertilizers based on manure (Agrovit Kor).

Flowering at home

Monstera readily blooms in greenhouse conditions. At home, this is rare. Most flower growers agree that monstera requires more humid air than in an apartment for flowering. In addition, the plant usually receives a nitrogen supplement, which stimulates leaf growth and inhibits the formation of flowers.


At home, monstera blooms extremely rarely

But is it worth it to be upset if the monstera does not bloom, because this vine is valued for its openwork large leaves. And monstera flowers are not very good. They look like callas or spathiphyllums, only the cob is larger. And not everyone has the patience to wait for the fruit to ripen. It will be possible to eat a monstera berry only after a year.

Features of winter care

Monstera does not have a pronounced dormant period, it does not drop leaves, but simply stops growth with the onset of cold weather and a decrease daylight hours. Monstera is ready to winter at a temperature of + 12–16. At this time, it is necessary to cancel top dressing and reduce watering.

If you give monstera artificial light and increase the temperature in the room to +18, the monstera will come to life again. But to deprive her of respite is not at all worth it. Let the plant rest for at least a month.

Aerial roots and monstera formation

Overgrown aerial roots do not always adorn the monstera. But they serve to nourish and moisturize, so you should never cut them off. When spraying monstera, be sure to moisten the aerial roots. By the way, they can be disguised by gathering them in bunches, wrapped in moss or tied to a stem. If the monstera's support is a moss tube, the air roots will grow into it themselves, they will help the vine climb along the grate.

Over the years, Monstera slows down the pace of development. Then, for rejuvenation and stimulation, cut off the top of the vine. Be sure to sprinkle the place of the cut with coal. The operation is carried out in the spring, when the plant has not yet begun to grow. This gives impetus to the awakening of the lateral kidneys. And the top (it is necessary to leave 2-3 internodes on it) is rooted to get a new plant.

Monstera "cries", does not grow, turns yellow + other care errors (table)

Manifestation Cause elimination
Liquid drips from the edge of the monstera sheets. Excess moisture in the soil. Too generous watering.
Can "cry" before the rain - this is a natural phenomenon
Reduce and adjust watering. Dry the soil.
The leaves have turned yellow, brownish dry spots appear on them. Insufficient watering, dry air. Don't let the soil dry out completely. Water generously in spring and summer.
Spray the plant regularly.
Leaves turn yellow and die. Too warm and dry air. Especially in winter. Remove monstera from heating appliances, moisten by spraying more often.
The leaves turn pale, lose color, become almost transparent. Too much light, direct sun. Remove the monstera to the back of the room, protect from direct rays.
The leaves turn yellow, cuts do not form. Nutritional deficiency. Feed the plant regularly during growth.
The leaves become thinner, like paper, turn brown. The plant became cramped in the pot. Check the roots of the monstera, if they are peeking out of the drainage holes - it's time to transplant the plant.

Diseases and pests (table)

Video: monster care

reproduction

Monstera can be grown from daughter shoots, stem and apical cuttings, as well as from seeds. The plant does not propagate by leaves or aerial roots. The daughter shoots that appear on the stem are bred from March to June, at the same time cuttings are carried out.

How to propagate by apical and stem cuttings

  1. Cut short cuttings, this can be a tip with 2-3 internodes or pieces of a stem with 1-2 leaves. Make the top cut straight and the bottom cut oblique.
  2. Powder the slices with crushed coal, dry.
  3. Put drainage and about 2 cm of a mixture of peat and humus soil in a container, on top of 3 cm of sand (sterilize everything beforehand).
  4. Plant cuttings. The node from which aerial roots grow must be buried halfway.
  5. Cover the seedlings with glass or clear plastic.
  6. Place in a warm (20–25°C) place with diffused light.
  7. Moisten the plantings, preventing the top layer from drying out, spray about every other day.
  8. After rooting, plant young monsters in separate pots.

Cuttings can be rooted in water. But this is not the best option for monstera. Roots accustomed to water do not adapt to the soil. The plant will get sick and grow new roots after planting in a pot.


Monstera cuttings are best rooted in the ground

Child (lateral) processes

  1. On the monstera stem, select a layering - an escape with a leaf from which the strongest aerial roots come.
  2. Wrap them with moistened moss, and loosely with plastic wrap on top, creating a greenhouse on the plant.
  3. Keep the moss moist by spraying it regularly.
  4. Wait for the layering to grow its roots.
  5. After about one and a half to two months, if the roots have grown, cut off the cuttings from the plant and plant them in a pot.


You have to tinker with the child processes, but this is how the monstera breeds most efficiently

seeds

For sowing, take only fresh seeds, they do not store for a long time.

  1. Wrap the planting material in a cloth and soak overnight in a solution of growth stimulants (Epin, Zircon).
  2. Put wet sphagnum moss in a plastic bag, spread the seeds on top.
  3. Place the bag in a warm (not lower than 25 degrees) place.
  4. Moisten crops regularly.
  5. In a month and a half, shoots will hatch.
  6. Plant young monstera sprouts in separate pots.
  7. Keep in a bright and warm room.
  8. Seedlings develop slowly. At first, they will have uncut leaves. Only a year later, 3-4 true leaves will appear.

Video: seed monstera - a useful experience

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