Penetration TT 10. Shooting and armor penetration

Recently I decided to ride the T-34, so to speak I decided to remember my youth in tanks. And it turned out that I do not break through all! It angered me! And I decided to open a new rubric. What's the point? In each article I will tell you how and where to punch TT. Today we will talk about how to break through each level 5 TT, in a couple of days level 6, etc. up to level 10.

Today we will look at 7 heavy tanks of level 5, and I will show where and who has weak points. To make it easier for you to understand me, I put arrows of different colors that indicate weakly armored zones.

KV-1

One of the most popular TTs at level 5, has decent all-round armor and a terribly armored turret. Consider the picture when your forehead is facing you. KVshka has 3 in his forehead weaknesses a: lower armor plate, machine gun and vision module, which is located to the left of the machine gun. If the tank is on the side, everything is simple here, shoot at the side! If the enemy put up only a tower, then shoot at two small "antennae"(view modules). If stern, then just shoot at the stern.

IMPORTANT!!! If the tank is turned sideways, make sure that during the shot the projectile does not fall under a large angle of armor, otherwise it threatens not to break through.

KV-220 and KV-220T

identical and differ only in letter "T". Both tanks are heavily armored. Here you need to shoot in the same way as on the KV-1: machine gun and vision module, on the left, these weak areas are marked in red in the picture.

VK 30.01 (H)

This tank ABSOLUTELY not armored, this tank's armor is not even cardboard, but foil! In general, there is nothing to talk about here, you will break through almost everything.

T1 Heavy Tank

The tank is distinguished by very long and cardboard sides. Always try to shoot at the side, it is the weakest in this tank, and if the American is turned forehead, shoot at the machine gun, as well as at the vision module from the right and at this upper armor plate, on which the machine gun with the module is located.

BDR G1B

It does not have good armor, but often there are good and cheating ricochets. If the enemy looks at you with his forehead, shoot at the right side of the upper armor plate. If you didn't get through there, then shoot at the HUGE commander's tower. If the tank is on the side, then it is better not to shoot with landmines and cumulatives. there is 20 mm on the side of the BDR. screens.

Churchill I and Churchill 3

completely identical. They do not differ in special armor, it is best to shoot at the side, but in no case AT AN ANGLE !!! If Churchill is standing with his forehead towards you, you need to shoot at the window on the left, and it is best to shoot at the tower. there he has only 80 mm.

Completion

Well guys, my article is read. I hope it was useful to you and you liked it, it was with you syper_nagibator2013. Stay tuned for more articles from this series!
Good luck on the virtual battlefields.

Shooting and armor penetration - essential elements game mechanics. This article contains information about such game parameters as accuracy, armor penetration and damage.

Accuracy

Accuracy- parameter of the gun, which characterizes its ability to send shells exactly at the target.

The game has two aspects related to accuracy:

scatter shells when firing at 100 meters. Measured in meters. The spread depends on the skill of the gunner. An untrained gunner (50% of the main skill) shoots 25% less accurately than a 100% trained gunner. Mixing time- aiming time, measured in seconds. This is a conditional parameter that was introduced for balancing needs. That is, aiming the gun itself at the target is not enough, it is important to wait for the moment when the aiming circle stops decreasing. Otherwise, the probability of a miss increases dramatically. When the tank moves and the turret and barrel turn, as well as after the shot, the sight "diverges", that is, the aiming circle increases sharply and it is necessary to wait for the aiming again. The convergence time is the time during which the circle of convergence decreases by ~2.5 times, to be precise, by e times (e is a mathematical constant, the base of the natural logarithm is ~2.71).

It is also important to understand that in the game (without installing extraneous modifications) a circle of information is displayed, and not a circle of scatter - these two circles have completely different diameters and, with very rare exceptions, do not coincide with each other. In fact, the scatter circle is smaller than the aiming circle (by several times) and the aim of the aiming circle in the game is not to display the spread of shells, but to visualize the state of the gun and its gunner, intact, damaged, the gunner is reduced or reduced, he is healthy or shell-shocked, etc. .

How to increase gun accuracy

• Install hardware Improved ventilation
• The Brotherhood of War (approximately +2.5% to accuracy).
• Use equipment that gives +10% to all crew parameters for one battle, including about 5% to accuracy - Doppayek, Chocolate, Cola box, Strong coffee, tea pudding, Improved Diet, Onigiri.

How to speed up aiming

• Set the gun with the highest aiming speed.
• Level up the gunner's main specialty to 100%.
• Install hardware Reinforced pickup drives(+10% Aim Speed).
• Install hardware Stabilizer vertical aiming (-20% to spread when moving the tank and turning the turret).
• Install hardware Improved ventilation(Approximately +2.5% Aim Speed)
• Upgrade the gunner's skill Smooth turn of the tower(-7.5% to turret spread).
• Upgrade the driver's skill Smooth running(-4% to spread when moving a tank).
• Upgrade a skill to all crew members The Brotherhood of War(Approximately +2.5% Aim Speed).
• Use equipment that gives +10% to all crew parameters for one battle, including about 5% to aiming speed Doppayek, Chocolate, Cola box, Strong coffee, tea pudding, Improved Diet, Onigiri.

Auto-guidance

When you press the right mouse button with the sight aimed at the enemy, auto-aiming is turned on. It fixes the barrel of the tank on the center of the enemy vehicle. This allows you not to aim at the eye, but at the same time has a number of significant drawbacks. The fact is that auto-guidance always aims at the center of the silhouette of an enemy tank, ignoring obstacles in the path of fire, as well as the vector and speed of the enemy’s movement. In cases where only a part of the enemy’s vehicle is visible in the sight, or when the target is moving and lead is needed, auto-aiming will not only not be useful, but moreover, it guarantees a miss. Auto-aiming does not allow you to target the weak points of the enemy tank, therefore it is relatively of little use at high levels of battles with accurate guns and large well-armored tanks.

Auto-aiming is usually used in close combat during active maneuvers and when firing at long distance against an immovable enemy.

Auto-guidance is canceled by pressing E (by default) or by pressing the right mouse button again.

Detailed analysis of shooting mechanics

armor penetration

armor penetration- parameter of the gun, which characterizes its ability to penetrate the armor of enemy tanks. It is measured in millimeters and has a spread of ± 25% relative to the average value. It is important to remember that the armor penetration indicated in the performance characteristics is indicated for the armor plate located at an angle of 90 degrees to the direction of the projectile. That is, the slope of the armor is not taken into account, while most tanks have sloped armor, which is much harder to penetrate. Also, the armor penetration indicated in the performance characteristics is indicated at a distance of 100 m, and with increasing distance it decreases (relevant for sub-caliber and armor-piercing shells and not applicable for high-explosive / HESH and cumulative).

Armor

Each tank has a reservation. However, the thickness of the armor is not the same everywhere. It is the thickest in the front. Behind - on the contrary, the thinnest. The roof and bottom of the tank are also very weakly armored. Armor is specified in the following format: frontal armor thickness/side armor thickness/stern armor thickness. And if the armor, for example, is equal to 38/28/28, then a gun with a penetration capacity of 30 mm in the general case will be able to penetrate the stern and side, but not the forehead. Due to the 25% dispersion, the actual penetration of this gun from shot to shot will vary from 22.5 to 37.5 mm.

It should be remembered that when specifying the armor, its slope is not taken into account. For example, the armor of the T-54 is 120 mm, the angle of inclination is 60°, and the normalization of the projectile is 4-5°. With such a slope, the reduced armor thickness will be about 210 mm. However, even the thickest armor has its vulnerabilities. These are various hatches, machine-gun nests, cabins, joints, etc.

Non-penetration and ricochet

Each projectile has its own penetration threshold. And if it is smaller than the armor of an enemy tank, then the projectile will not penetrate it. To do this, it is necessary to aim at the most vulnerable places of the tank: the stern, sides and various ledges and crevices. If this does not help, you can use high-explosive shells.

When shooting at a tank at an angle, there is a high chance of a ricochet. The boundary between penetration and ricochet lies at an angle of 70°. If the caliber of the projectile exceeds the thickness of the armor more than 3 times, the ricochet does not occur, and if it is doubled, the normalization of the projectile increases in proportion to the excess of the caliber of the gun over the thickness of the armor - and the projectile tries to penetrate the armor at any angle. So, for example, when firing from a 100mm gun with 170 armor penetration, at a 30mm thick armor plate at an angle of 89.99 degrees, the normalization will increase to 23.33 degrees, and the reduced armor will be 30/cos(89.99-23.33)= 75.75mm of armor.

Detailed analysis of armor penetration mechanics

Attention! Update 0.8.6 introduces new penetration rules for HEAT shells:

A HEAT projectile can now ricochet when a projectile hits armor at an angle of 85 degrees or more. With a ricochet, the penetration of tanks in World of Tanks ricocheted cumulative projectile does not fall.

After the first armor penetration, the projectile begins to lose armor penetration at the following rate: 5% of the remaining armor penetration after penetration - per 10 cm of space traversed by the projectile (50% - per 1 meter of free space from the screen to the armor).

Also in update 0.8.6, the normalization of sub-caliber shells has been reduced to 2°.

Since Update 0.9.3, it has become possible to ricochet to another tank. After the second ricochet, the projectile disappears. To know combat characteristics any technique, for example, damage, armor, and based on this, it is possible to identify penetration zones in the "Tank Science" section in the World of Tanks Assistant application.

Damage

Damage- parameter of the gun, which characterizes its ability to cause damage to enemy tanks. Measured in units. It is important to remember that the damage indicated in the performance characteristics of the gun is average and in fact varies within 25%, both up and down.

Location of weak points

The location of the various modules in the game is not indicated, but it fully corresponds to the real prototypes. And therefore, if in real life the ammunition was in the left corner of the back of the tank, then in the game it will be there. But still, the weakest points of tanks are located in approximately the same place:

• The engine and fuel tank are usually located in the aft (rear) part of the tank.
• The ammunition rack is located in the center of the hull or in the aft (rear) part of the turret.
• To knock down a tank caterpillar, you need to shoot at the front or last roller.
• The gun and triplexes are visible to the naked eye.
• The commander, as a rule, is in the tower and can be incapacitated by a hit on the commander's cupola.
• The driver sits in front of the machine body.
• The loader and gunner are located in the front or center of the turret.

Damage by modules

Shooting at modules has its own characteristics. Often, when modules are hit, the damage goes to them, but not to the tank itself. Each module has its own durability points (health units). If they are completely removed (critical damage), then the module stops working and it will take some time to restore it. Module health units are not fully restored, but only up to 50%. It remains damaged and may not work as well. Accordingly, it will be easier to break the same module in the future. If new damage is inflicted on the module during the repair process, health points are removed, the repair continues up to 50%. That is, if a tank with a removed caterpillar continues to hit the same caterpillar, then it will be repaired constantly (or until the tank is destroyed).

The repair kit restores the health points of the damaged module up to 100%.

Motor If the module is damaged or after repair maximum speed movement is reduced. With critical damage, movement is impossible. Each engine damage can cause a fire with the probability indicated in the engine description (10-40%). Chance of damage: 45% Caterpillar When the module is damaged, the chance of breaking increases. With critical damage, movement is impossible. Ammunition rack If the module is damaged, the reload time increases. In case of critical damage, the tank is destroyed. At the same time, the number of shells in the ammo rack does not affect the chance of its explosion. Only an empty ammo rack does not explode. Damage Chance: 27% Tank No penalty is applied when the module is damaged. When the tank is critically damaged, a fire starts. Damage Chance: 45% Triplex No penalty is applied when a module is damaged or after repair. With critical damage, the visibility range is reduced by 50%. Chance of damage: 45% Radio station When the module is damaged, the communication radius is halved. Chance of damage: 45% Gun If the module is damaged or after restoration, the accuracy of shooting decreases. With critical damage, firing from a gun and changing its declination are impossible. Chance of damage: 33% Turret rotation mechanism If the module is damaged or after restoration, the rotation speed of the turret is reduced. With critical damage, the rotation of the tower is impossible. Damage Chance: 45%

Crew Damage

Unlike tank modules, the crew does not have health points. A tanker can be either healthy or shell-shocked. A knocked out tanker can be returned to service by using a first-aid kit. Contusion of all crew members is equivalent to the destruction of the tank. When one of the crew members is disabled, all effects from additional skills and abilities learned by him disappear. For example, when a commander is shell-shocked, the "Sixth Sense" light bulb stops working. In addition, if:

The commander is shell-shocked - visibility is halved, the commander's bonus ceases to operate. The driver is shell-shocked - the speed of movement and turns is halved. The gunner is shell-shocked - the spread is doubled, the turret traverse speed is halved. Loader shell-shocked - reload speed is halved. The radio operator is shell-shocked - the communication radius is halved. Crew member shell shock chance: 33%

Detailed analysis of the mechanics of module damage

Tanking Basics

Hello dear tankers! Today we will look at one of the most controversial, beloved and fiercely hated vehicles in the world of World of Tanks. This unit combines so many surprisingly good and insanely terrible features that often, fans of this miracle of American tank building are called "perverts." But, as the people of merchants and traders say: "There is a buyer for every product." So let's take a closer look at what cuts the heart and other organs so much for the majority, and uncontrollably attracts some. Meet T95.

You can research this tank destroyer by earning 165,000 experience on T28, and purchase it for quite a standard amount - 3.5 million credits. I advise you to retrain the previously upgraded crew (if you are not going to keep its predecessors in your hangar), since the T95 is in full compliance with the previous two vehicles in this regard. In principle, the perks and skills for different-level tank destroyers of this branch are the same, but if you don’t want to ride with 90% of the crew after retraining, then you have a couple of options for solving this problem:

• The easiest and most advantageous is to retrain for gold. It will cost 200 * 5 = 1000 gold. If you have such an opportunity and do not feel sorry for the money spent - retrain. In this way, you will lose a minimum of experience from the crew itself and time.

• There is another option to immediately retrain up to 100% for silver. To do this, you just need to reset all the perks from the crew to T20 for silver, and when retraining, part of the experience from the perks will be spent on training up to 100% mastery of the main specialty. It will cost 40,000 * 5 = 200,000 credits. In this way, you will only lose some experience from the crew, but save money and time.

As for camouflage - definitely necessary thing! First, we are tank destroyers, which means that we have a 25% stealth bonus. Secondly, we have a very low profile, and therefore a low visibility coefficient. All this, together with the "disguise" will give a good result - we will glow in the open area a little less often. It will cost 90,000 * 3 = 270,000 credits for 30 days.

Research Tree

One of the nice bonuses when leveling T95 is the relatively quick bringing it to the top state. We immediately install the top-end engine and radio - we got them from the T28. Then we must open the top chassis, otherwise the weight limit will not allow us to put even a pre-top gun. And most importantly - the tool. If you are not too lazy and make the T28 an elite one (which is what I advise), then the pre-top gun 120mm AT Gun T53 will be available to you. The only thing left to do is to open the great and terrible top gun 155mm AT Gun T7. With this, we have completed our PT building and are ready to bend everything we see to the right and left.

Chassis, as well as almost everywhere, we need to explore and install immediately. Since without it we will not be able to install more advanced modules.

What can I say, terrible weapons. Only from one hit of which you want to run away as far as possible from this PT, because in most cases it is practically unkillable. The accuracy of the guns is quite good and the aiming speed too.

With our mass, the difference between the stock and top-end engine is extremely small. The chance of engine fire is standard, so it is highly advisable to carry a fire extinguisher.

The stock radio at level 9 is completely unplayable, so we need to install the top radio as soon as possible. It will be enough for us.

pumping

In principle, we have no options, so we examine the modules in the following sequence:

1. Walkie-talkie and engine (inherited from predecessor)
2. Suspension (without it, we will not install guns)
3. gun

Advantages and disadvantages of the car in the top configuration:

pros

• A good pre-top weapon (there is enough penetration for everyone, so we won’t eat cacti)
• A very powerful top gun (penetrating 276 penetrates all 10 levels, and alpha 750 will not allow the enemy to underestimate us)
• Very low silhouette (will allow us to successfully apply the tactics of the AT hunter)
• Thickest claimed frontal armor in the game
• Double caterpillar row (it is almost impossible to penetrate the hull into the side through them)

Minuses

• One of the slowest cars in the game - the maximum speed is only 13 km/h
• Low turning speed (it’s quite easy to “carousel” us)
• Artillery loves us (again, we make allowances for the current patch and the absence of a large number of artillery brothers, so this can only be called a minus with a strong stretch)

Balance weight

We, like most tank destroyers, get into battles of 9-11 levels. But for us this does not really matter, because with such a weapon as the T95, all enemy tanks can be divided into two categories - killed and awaiting their death. No technique in this game will be a problem for us in terms of penetration. Naturally, it is unreasonable to shoot at the blind anywhere and hope to break through.

Profitability

As you understand, any technique of levels 9-10 cannot be profitable a priori. In any case, without a premium account. With PA, we will most likely go either to plus or to zero. But you should not count on any stable farm.

Tactics

As many people call the T95, this is a one-way machine. If we started to go to one or another flank, then we most likely will no longer have options to change the deployment. This is due to our maximum speed - 13 km / h. We must choose a direction soberly and carefully: if after entering a partially open position it turns out that you have no support, then the moment the enemy enters our stern is just a matter of time. Another thing is when you have a cover that will not let you take the T95 by surprise - we can tank with the forehead, be healthy and for this we will be thanked more than once. On city maps, or maps with narrow gorges and "guts" you will be able to fully unleash the potential of this tank destroyer - we tank with our foreheads, we go to victory. Naturally, you must have information about the directions and positions on all maps and modes in order to understand - the heavies will go here, and the PT here; they don't have fast tanks, so I can take such and such a position. But this is rather a digression from the topic, because knowledge of in-game geography comes with experience and is an important point for playing on any vehicle. Well, here are a few rules:

• - Choose your direction wisely
• - Never take a referral yourself unless you are 100% sure you are safe
• - Play from frontal armor

And remember the most important thing - T95 does not forgive even the slightest mistakes. Can you rate this as a quality? new level in developing your playing skill.

Optional equipment

Almost standard for us is " gun rammer large caliber" and "Reinforced aiming drives". Three devices claim the place of the third equipment - “Coated optics”, “Improved ventilation Class 3” and “Stereo tube”. I strongly recommend not to put "Ventilation" if your crew does not have "Combat Brotherhood" pumped - it will not give a noticeable increase in solitude. If there is a "brotherhood" - we put it without hesitation. More the best option there will be an installation of "Coated optics" or "Stereo tubes" - the choice depends on your preferences. Do not forget that we are tank destroyers and vision in many endgame situations can play a key role (390m native vision + 10% = 429m with optics or 390m + 25% = 488m with a stereo tube) - whoever is sharper is the winner.

The price list from the manufacturer is as follows:

1. "Large caliber gun rammer" - 500.000 silver
2. "Reinforced aiming drives" - 500.000 silver
3. "Coated optics" - 500.000 silver
4. "Improved ventilation Class 3" - 600.00 silver
5. "Stereotube" - 500.000 silver

Equipment

• repair kit
• first aid kit
• Fire Extinguisher/100 Octane Gasoline/Crate of Coke

Why is a fire extinguisher optional? It's simple - we almost never burn (with the right game). And if we were set on fire, then it is almost always death, not even taking into account the fact of arson (I’ll tell you why later). Regarding gold shells - as for me, it is worth carrying 1-3 sub-calibers. We break through everyone anyway, but there are situations when you need to shoot "mouse in the forehead."

Crew Perks

If you didn't leave passing ATs in your hangar, then you should already have a two-perk crew.

Commander

1. Repair
2. Sixth Sense
3. Battle Brotherhood/Eagle Eye

gunner

1. Repair
2. Disguise
3. Battle Brotherhood/Sniper

Driver mechanic

1. Repair
2. Virtuoso
3. Battle Brotherhood/King of the Off-Road

Charging

1. Repair
2. Disguise
3. Battle Brotherhood/Desperate

Repair is simply obligatory for everyone - if we are put on a 12-second harp, then you can consider that the game is over. Sixth sense - standard, disguise - for lack of a better one, virtuoso - will give a small increase in turning speed, disguise - for lack of a better one. The third perk (if you still decide to keep the T95 in your hangar) you can take either BB or an alternative - again, it depends on your preferences.

Machine vulnerabilities

In the frontal projection, we have no weak spots, in principle. Yes, there are commander's, driver's and gunner's turrets, but given their size, it is quite difficult to hit them. Moreover, hitting them does not guarantee penetration - the angle is quite large and the ricochets only ring. We are almost impossible to break into the frontal detail (except perhaps gold). The thickness of the frontal part is 305 mm, and in the area of ​​the gun mantlet it reaches as much as 600 mm. It is possible to penetrate, perhaps, into the lower frontal part - there is only 207mm of reduced armor, but getting there is quite difficult due to its small dimensions. The lower half of the side part is impenetrable. Screens and a double row of tracks do their job. top also cover the screens at a good angle. On both sides (in the rear) of the hull, we have tanks, and in the aft part - the engine. That is why it is very undesirable for us to let the enemy in and give us the opportunity to shoot through our “ass”. Such a scenario almost always ends fatally... for us. The ammo rack is located in the middle of the port side and occupies a rather small area, so we don’t have to worry about it too much.

Here it is, but in pictures:

Orange- commander, gunner, loader
Red- engine, tanks, transmission
Green- easily penetrated zones
White- ammo rack
Blue- driver mechanic.

And finally, the video:

When playing World of Tanks, everyone wants to deal more damage. But it doesn't always work out. New tanks appear in the game, which are difficult to defeat. You need to find out where to punch Japanese strands, because these are the most armored vehicles in WOT. They are not “sewn” anywhere, you need to know certain areas. But first, let's take a look at their history.

History of Japanese tanks

Appeared in 1918. These were machines created and brought specifically for this country. In the late 1920s, Japanese designers decided to create their own models, and already in 1929 the first tank was produced. Despite the low level of funding, the production of iron machines grew. By the end of World War II, Japan ranked fifth in the world in tank production.

New armored cars were used in both the Sino-Japanese and World War II. The problems began when funding became even smaller, and the cars became of lower quality. In addition, their number has significantly decreased. This largely influenced further military operations. Tank troops could no longer be a strike force in battles, and the country capitulated.

A new breath of tank building in Japan began in 1954. At the same time, the designers had to create projects for armored vehicles from scratch.

Type 4 Heavy

This is Japanese heavy tank, which existed in real development. AT game world of Tanks, it takes level 9. In life, it has a second name - Type 2604. The main task in battles is to break through fortifications and defend.

Before we figure out where to punch Japanese heavys, we need to consider the Type 4 Heavy and other "Japanese" from the point of view performance characteristics. As it has already become clear, the tank has a high armor rate and a pretty good weapon. The main task is to slowly go ahead, absorbing all the enemy damage.

Dangerous for the Type 4 Heavy are small tanks that can cuddle up to the hull and shoot at the Japanese, while the cannon will not lower to take the fly of a small enemy. The advantages include good UVNs, a large number of shells, excellent average damage and penetration. Also, the tank can see quite a lot and convey to the allies.

But of the main shortcomings, of course, are the speed of rotation of the tower, long mixing, weak dynamics, reloading and, of course, dimensions. If the tank is in the light, then the artillery will easily shoot it, since it is not difficult to get into it.

Where to pierce Type 4 Heavy?

When the Japanese heavyweight "Type 4 Heavy" appeared in the game, no one knew where to punch it. It was later that the players themselves began to find weaknesses or simply charged the gold. Of course, if you don't have a lot of resources, it's better to find out the tank's weaknesses.

It is worth noting that the Type 4 Heavy is a redesigned O-I in its own way. If he met you head-on, then write it down. There are no weak points in the front of the strand, since the armor here is from 260 mm. But if you are a little more careful, you can see the plane of the body. If an iron monster is placed in a rhombus, its armor is reduced to 200 mm.

The sad thing is that there is a BC next to it, which can be blown up and the tank taken out of battle. Of course, as mentioned earlier, it can be pierced with gold shells. If you are on a level 10 vehicle, then the chances of dealing damage are even greater.

Other Japanese heavyweights

Before and after the Type 4 Heavy, there are other equally powerful tanks that players have problems with. Next, we will find out where to punch Japanese strands, but first we will get to know them a little.

It's worth mentioning that the Japanese Heavy branch starts at Tier 3 of the Type 91 Heavy. Further behind him was a Type 95 Heavy. These tanks are quite similar to each other, so it makes no sense to talk about them separately. Cardinal and absolutely different before us was the fifth level - O-I Experimental. Of course, now everyone already knows what kind of colossus it is and how to deal with it. But immediately after the appearance, this monster caused a shock.

Behind him are two strong armored vehicles: O-I - the sixth level and O-Ni - the seventh. Here you can also add a powerful O-Ho. Sometimes embarrassment happens with these tanks. Inexperienced players do not know how to deal with them, and often receive land mines from them at full health.

The ninth and tenth levels were occupied by Type 4 Heavy and Type 5 Heavy. These vehicles are well armored, and the fireflies cannot handle them. Only levels 9-10 can fight them, and in some cases even gold shells in WoT. Where to break through the Japanese strands, we will understand further.

Where to punch?

Experienced players always find themselves weak sides new tanks. Now everyone knows where to break through Japanese strands of 3-4 level, and this is easy to do on any machine. But older tanks can already bring a lot of problems. The least harmful can be considered O-I Experimental of the fifth level. If the tank has become sideways, it can be pierced at a right angle without difficulty. If he rushes head-on towards you, then it is better to aim at the turrets of the radio operators.

When O-I was added to the world of tanks, where to pierce Japanese bands, nobody knew. If other armored vehicles could be targeted at some default places, then starting from the 6th level of the Japanese TT branch, questions began to arise. If you face this monster head-on, aim for the bar under the main turret, otherwise you can try to shoot at the tank, or at the sides at a right angle.

Basically, the armor scheme of the tank, starting from the fifth level, practically does not change with the strands. The roof of the "Japanese" remains cardboard, a little stronger than its feed, and not the lower part, but the middle. If the cord has become a rhombus, you need to aim at the near corner of the upper armor plate, or the near part of the tower.

In theory, Japanese heavyweights are fearsome and rebellious, but in practice they are easy to defeat and knock the enemy out of the fight.