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R. Sob 2005Report and advice to colleagues. Route participants (all Muscovites): 1. Vadim Grabovetsky(Comrade Captain, Dima) - leader, photographer. Experienced kayaker (Katun) 2 . Maria Antipyeva- 2nd navigator An experienced hiker, there are also solo trips on the account. 3. Vlasova Anastasia- caretaker, doctor, photographer. 26 years old, little experience in hiking (Khibiny, II) and water tourism (White Sea, kayak) 4. Alekseev Konstantin- 1st navigator, photographer. 26 years old, four non-categorical kayaks and seven hiking, incl. Khibiny (II). 5. Ulyanov Ivan- maniac. 14 years old, no experience, lots of enthusiasm. The exact age of the first two participants in the campaign is unknown to me, I can only say that it is over 40 years old. The duration of the trip from Sob to Katravozh 120 km. 31.07.05 Sunday. Loaded at the Yaroslavsky railway station without any complications in the branded train 22 Moscow-Labytnangi, departing at 19:30. This train was launched only last year and I strongly recommend it to those who want to get to the Urals normally - everything is clean, the air conditioner works, the electronic display shows the number of the car, the temperature in it and whether the toilet is occupied. 08/01/05 Monday. We are going, discussing the upcoming route, tasting pies and boiled potatoes. 02.08.05
Tuesday.
slipway. Crossing to the mouth of the streamNyrdwomanshor(Oriental). Cloudy weather outside. The Ural Range appears in the distance. To our joy, a clear sky is visible between its peaks on the eastern side. After the station Khorota, the train goes along the Yelets River and finally enters the mountains. Near the station Polar Ural A watershed passes from which the Yelets flows to the west, and the Sob to the East. It is curious that only a few hundred meters separate the Sob from the sources of Yelets. There is no scheduled parking at the Polyarny Ural station, but our train stopped there. On the right side of the train, immediately after the station, the border post Europe / Asia floated past us. After the Polar Urals, the train goes all the time along the Sob to the Kharp station. We took tickets to the Sob station, because according to a number of reports found on the Internet, the river there, which received a large tributary shortly before (the Bolshaya Paipudyna river), becomes navigable for kayaks. But in the end, I would prefer to land at the Polyarny Ural station, since the train stops there. Only a third of the route passes through the mountains, if you count from the station. Sob to Katravozh. Meanwhile, this section is a real aesthetic feast and it is quite natural to extend it at the expense of the section from the Polar Urals to Sob. In some places wiring will be required, but in some places the river is quite passable for Taimen, at least it seems so from the train window. There are even stretches of land. You'll have to puff a little, of course, but, damn it, how beautiful! At the Sob station, where we arrived at 14:50 Moscow time (16:50 local time), a little adventure awaited us. We and another group of tourists filled one of the sides of the vestibule with kayaks. It was from the littered side that the station buildings of Sobi turned out to be. On the opposite side of the station, the conductor could not identify it. Since before that the train stopped where it was not supposed to be on schedule, we thought for a while whether this was our station. While we were thinking, colleagues unloaded both their own and our kayaks, and 2 minutes of parking ended. They landed already on the move, and we went on screaming. The train at the station stood with a bend, the outer side towards the unloading, so that the driver was not able to observe the red flag of the conductor (which, however, was not involved). After some bickering, the stop crane was torn off, we jumped onto the embankment, having driven 800 meters from the station. Masha, jumping out, twisted her leg. Vanya with a backpack ran along the sleepers after the kayaks, I, weighed down by two backpacks, quickly hobbled after him, Comrade Captain with the ladies slowly followed us. Kayaks were found at the station, colleagues showed us a convenient approach to the water (from a rusty water tower) and we started assembling. Regarding the unloading on Sobi, I want to say this. An excellent landmark at the entrance to it is the Post 106 km and the confluence of the Big Paipudyn behind it on the left side of the train. Post 106 km will not go unnoticed - there are several houses and some other buildings. The first buildings that can be observed from the train after the 106th kilometer are the Sob station. If you look through the windows to the right along the course of the train, then soon after the mouth of the Paipudyn, roofs of houses and a rusty water tower will appear in front. This will be Sob.
By 6 o’clock Moscow time, thank the gods, we finished packing, having managed to tear and seal the kopeck piece along the way. They lowered the kayaks into a blind channel without a current, connecting with the river under a footbridge. Cloudy in the west, broken clouds above us, ahead, in the east, blue sky and white clouds. With enthusiasm we rushed down the river. Our goal is the mouth of the Vostochny Nyrdvomenshor stream (the Northern Nyrdvomenshor flows into the Sob shortly before the station). A little more than 20 kilometers to the stream, the river flows first to the southeast, then takes it to the south. On the right, an array with Mount Pourkeu stretches all the time. The views are very beautiful and it is pleasant to swim, although the constant branching of the river into branches and a large number of shivers does not allow you to relax. Three hours later, the massif on the right goes down into the forest, on the left a small hill, all of broken stone, pushes the railway to the very shore. The river goes around the hill on the left bank and goes to a straight section, which offers a magnificent view of the Rayiz massif. Here, on the right, the desired stream flows into the Sob. On the shore directly in front of its mouth in the bushes is a good stop. Finding it empty, we happily camp. It's already cool and the water is chilly. Anyone who, having looked around the parking lot, will be concerned about the source of firewood, I advise you to take a walk a hundred or two meters up the stream. 03.08.05 Wednesday.Daytime. Scheduled day. Comrade Captain with Masha and Vanya gathered in a radial car up the stream in the hope of getting to the lakes at the headwaters of the Northern Nyrdvomanshor. They were inspired by the example of some frisky guys who climbed to the Raiz plateau and descended back from the same camp in 11 hours. Will will, if there is a lot of strength ... While they got up, while Comrade Captain was gluing T3, which, out of laziness, he did not glue on the stringers. They got off to a late start. As a result, the team only got to Hill 461, descended from it along the canyon back to the stream and turned back. The places are very picturesque - alpine meadows, interesting rocks, a road going straight along the stream bed, snowfields. Tired, but satisfied, our companions after a 9-hour walk returned to the camp, where dinner was waiting for them. Nastya and I enjoyed the views from the camp all day, running around it with cameras and a tripod. A fresh wind blew off the midge, and by evening it had completely disappeared, fleeing the cold. The weather turned gloomy and it began to rain during the night. 04.08.05 Thursday. The passage of the Kharp threshold. Gorgeous, at least for the photographer, windy morning. Heavy clouds are trying to crawl over Rayiz, which are torn to pieces by the wind on the crests. Having rushed about with cameras, we are going and about 12 we leave. This is perhaps the most beautiful part of the route. The river is close to the reddish slopes of the Rayes. The old ridge, heavily destroyed by time, looks somehow Martian. The slopes are lifeless, but what's up there? Half an hour after the exit, we reach the traverse of a cascade of waterfalls formed by a stream flowing from a crater-like basin on Raiza. Shortly after leaving our camp and up to this point, there are many good parking spots on the right bank. Almost all are occupied by tourists. For an excursion to the waterfalls, it is better to stop somewhere here. We regret to sail on. We hope to return someday on foot and explore the waterfalls from above and below. Half an hour before Harp, we arrange lunch. Ryiz moves to the side, descending. As it became clear to us later, and it is clear to a sane and sober navigator even from a dream, to climb Raiz it is best to stand exactly in the place where he goes down from the river. From the rear, the array is flat and easy to storm, and it is not far from the river here. But after Kharp, we expect to enter the Yenga-Yu tributary of the Sobi and run up a couple of
kilometers. Find a parking lot there and arrange a day trip with a radial exit. Having clarified our hopes on the map, we sail further. Barbed wire begins along the left bank - Harp went. On the territory of the zone there is a chapel, a dome, which is approximately equal in size to the rest of the building. After it, the turn of the river with the first step of the rapid, followed shortly by the second. We passed them right away, just passed. We had an apron and skirts on T2, but no apron on T3. And nothing happened to the treshka. Soon we sailed under the road bridge and discovered that if we don’t start now, there will be a third step. Started up. Of the five of us, only Comrade Captain, as a well-deserved river walker up to category 5, understood well what was happening. Masha was a kayaker in a past life. The rest were waiting for our honored guru to examine the threshold and say his weighty word. Comrade Captain came and pointed to two stones. It was necessary to pass between them and further along the stream. Their treshka rushed first, we went after it. It was a little scary out of the blue. Carried our kopeck piece quickly through the threshold, a couple of times lightly putting on the stones. Treshka, again, without an apron went fine. But after the threshold, the most unpleasant thing happened to us. We passed by the mouth of Yeng-Yu like zombified idiots. We sailed slowly past, devouring it with our eyes, admiring the view of the mountains up the river, a good place to stop on the bank beyond the confluence. I drowsily assumed it was Yong-Yu. And I must say that anyone in their right mind, based on the map and what the eyes see, will become completely clear that he sees Yong-Yu and nothing else. However, the crew of the three-ruble note with unshakable confidence and condescendingly explained that this was not Yenga-Yu, but some miserable stream. After an hour and a half, we got to the parking lot, without finding the second Yong-Yu. The people realized that she was behind. Nastya, who had wet her feet during the day, caught a cold with a fever. Well, nothing, at least I got a nice parking lot, over pebbles about 10 kilometers below the mouth of Yung-Yu. Having spread our cards, we decided to spend the second and last day of our trip at the mouth of Haramatalou, going into it. At the same time, three of our athletes were going to the Gagarin threshold, and Nastya and I were going to sit in the camp. With sunset, the cold came and the midge left. 05.08.05
Friday. Trek to Haramatalou. The weather is clear and sunny. We left at the beginning of the first. Nastya completely unstuck and at times lay in a kayak, unable to row. Before leaving, the crew of the three-ruble note interviewed local fishermen about our whereabouts. They showed on our map a place higher than Harp. The titanic mind of a man. After half an hour rowing in the ditch on the left along the way we saw these mighty guys. The crew of the treshka confidently stated that Hanmei was on the left. I did not object, but I thought that I was not such a fool as to, after yesterday, be led by the statements of my colleagues. Looking first at the compass, then at the map, I continued rowing. Soon I became attached to the map. Where in the depths of the right bank of the river on the map of heights 103 and 105, Sob has a characteristic bracket - first the channel goes to the west, then to the south, then to the east. After the brace, I voiced the assumption that Hanmei would be 8-10 kilometers away. We walked this distance with a stop for lunch and naturally found Hanmei. Then we tied up to the area at the mouth of the Orehyogan stream, and
By 7 pm, having passed a real crowd of tourists on both banks of the river, they approached the mouth of Haramatalou. Here we made another idiotic act. The parking lot on the cape at the confluence turned out to be busy. Instead of entering Haramatalou and scourging up it for at least a few hundred meters, we swam along the Sobi beyond the cape and swarmed around there for about half an hour, thinking about where to stand. Finally, after swimming a few hundred meters more, we found a dirty parking lot. We stood on it, determined in the morning to enter Haramatalou and find a better place there. 06.08.05
Saturday. Up Haramatalou, half day. We swayed to leave only at one o'clock. It took about forty minutes to return to the mouth. We started climbing up on the line. We reached the first divergence of the channel into channels and sat down to rest. We decided to immediately stop at the parking lot, but then from behind the island on guard, into the expanse of the river wave, more than a dozen different-sized kayaks came out. Masha, who loves hiking in the most deserted corners of our Motherland, began to stir her hair. I expressed the idea of a machine gun and a sea of blood, Masha suggested cutting off everyone with one burst in the water, so that all the blood would immediately be washed away ... In short, we rushed into a branch of the river free from colleagues. Having bypassed the island, we stood in a beautiful place where the sleeves diverge (both upstream and downstream). It was so warm that Nastya and I swam.
Dima and Masha gathered on the Gagarin threshold, but did not immediately go to it, taking a snack with dry rations, but also put up a tent and waited for dinner. This is what ruined them. They left at five o'clock, and when crossing the river to ford Masha once again twisted the same leg as when jumping from the train. With an iron will to move, she continued forward, but too slowly. As a result, he and Comrade Captain did not reach the threshold. It's a pity. At the beginning of the eleventh they returned to the camp. It was still warm and we went crazy with the abundance of midges and midges. Therefore, they did not stay long and immediately after dinner went to bed. I must add that we really liked Haramatalou. All day long, groups of tourists passed up and down the river past our camp, from which we can conclude that further is even better and it is worth visiting Haramatalou. 07.08.05
Sunday. Haramatalou, Sob, the mouth of the Luppayyogan,Tushgort tract.
No midges in the morning. The wind is such that it can be a problem for ducks. Sunny. We leave around twelve. Nastya and I immediately discover that the kayak has holes. Managed somewhere yesterday to squander the bottom. We float, scooping out from time to time. Very soon we get back to Sob. Soon, three large loops await us on the river. We look forward to them in advance - with such a strong wind, it will obviously become a problem in some areas. The wind is from the north-west and during the course in each of the loops you have to row at full speed, while remembering the rule not to relieve small needs against the wind. Scolding all the gods responsible for the weather for mom and dad, we finally reach the end of the last, third loop. The river turns to the southeast and the wind accelerates our kayaks. We fly forward, sluggishly working with oars. Soon, on the right bank of the river, signs "Polarny Ural Reserve" or "Polyarno-
I don’t remember exactly. Before the mouth of the Lupayogan, I go out to reconnoiter a place for lunch on the right bank, which is prettier than the left. I find a hut, apparently related to the reserve. stands after the mouth large group fishing enthusiasts and we move on. After 10 minutes we get up for lunch on the coastal sand. Nastya and I are sealing the kayak. Comrade Captain, looking at us, did the same with his three-ruble note. We pushed our way against the keelson ladder when I dragged the kayak over the stone on Haramatalou. What can be said here. Native skins for taimen began to be made bad - they look more like a condom than good old skins. Our already collected on the sides. The tension is weak and it is very easy to cut through the skin on the keelson, seat, etc. etc. Comrades, put foam under the kilson or use skins PVC production"Triton". Of course, this is not so necessary for owners of old skins or Salutes. After dinner, we leave. There are very few good parking spaces. When we reach the confluence of two streams on the left along the way, good places for parking are coming to naught. We, as lovers of aesthetically pleasing parking lots, sadly look around and start rowing maniacally forward, missing places where we can stand up, hoping for something better. We approach the island, where Sob makes a local bend from the southeast to the northeast. In front of our eyes, a group of catamarans occupies a quite decent parking lot at the tip of the island. Completely furious, we row further. We disembark, we look, we go further, we disembark again. Hmmm, don't freak out, Venikov, listen to your song "Valenki" ... Finally, at the beginning of the ninth, we find a quite decent parking lot where the Tushgort tract is indicated on the map. We swim up and sit down on a stone. We collide with oars, as a result of which we cut through the skin on the grill of the front seat. Cursing, we approach the shore, before our eyes, a small fish jumps out of the water, followed by a pike, which grabs the victim in a jump. There are so many fish skeletons on the shore, just some kind of cemetery. Fishermen were standing here for a long time and with taste. The wind is still fierce, but now it is also cold. It freezes the bones. We're preparing dinner. Comrade Captain puts up a tent, to which he has a thermometer packed. We learn that the temperature is +6, but it seems that it is colder. After dinner, we sit by the fire for a while, and finally, unable to withstand the wind, we crawl into tents. 08.08.05
Monday.
The Tushgort tract, the mouth of the Evrasoim and the Nyurapol hut. We get up at 9 o'clock, sunny, cold, still the same wind. But since yesterday, the midge does not smell. We have breakfast, we glue new holes on our kopeck piece, we are going listlessly. At the beginning of the second we leave. Katravozh can be reached in one walk, so this time we have to go a little. Approximately after flowing into the river on the right of the Harsoim stream, the river becomes more and more inhabited by local fishermen. Motor boats, huts, just parking lots that they use are starting to come across. Two hours later, we pass the mouth of the Evrasoim stream, two motor boats are "parked" on the right bank. To the left on the sandy island is a low birch forest. We look at motorboats, at the map and understand that we need to try this birch forest, since nothing good is likely to shine for us. We examine the woods, to which you need to climb along a two-meter sandy wall. We find a flat place, look around - if this place is inhabited, it will be very cozy. We unload, not without difficulty we drag the kayaks up. There are no problems with firewood - there are many dry birches on the beach under the wall of the forested part of the island. There are a lot of red currants on the island, honeysuckle comes across. We indulge in gluttony, discovering a certain excess of our food supplies. Chasing tea, we are surprised to see how two boats, the size of a river tug or a little more, pass us up the Sob at a short interval. There is no wind from our side of the island,
so there are some midges and mosquitoes. By evening the temperature drops and they disappear. We make tea for a long time, then we go to bed. 09.08.05 Tuesday. Passage to the mouth of Lonkaryogan. In the morning, slowly, we pack up and leave. We have a short transition ahead of us. We leave for about an hour, go around our island and get to a long wide stretch of land with a headwind. Cursing, we row. At last the river turns to the right, and the wind begins to blow astern. Here we relax, from time to time we couple kayaks
and chatting, surrendering to the will of the wind. The currents are not particularly noticeable since the middle of yesterday's transition. The coast is rather bleak. Soon ahead, above the forest, we notice a radio tower marking Katravozh. We start looking for a parking space. To the left, horses are grazing along the course, we are approaching sandy beach on the right and landed for reconnaissance. There is a forest behind the beach, but it turns out that it is separated from us by the Lonkaryogan channel. We sit back and, tacking between sandbanks, we go to Lonkaryogan, along which we freely climb only a few hundred meters. On the left, the coast begins to gain height, and where, having gained altitude, it ceases to stretch upwards, we land for reconnaissance. We find an excellent parking lot right on the shore, among the willow bushes. A large flat area between the bushes is "equipped" with a magnificent, long and thick fin log in the depths. Here we make a fire. Among the bushes on the left and right are decent places for tents, almost rooms with walls of bushes. We get up in the parking lot around four and indulge in gluttony, continuing to destroy the excess. By night the temperature drops to +5 and we go to bed. This is the coldest of our nights. 10.08.05 Wednesday. Trek to Katravozh. We get out of the tent. Cloudy with clearings. Some clouds look gloomy, rain is visible in the distance. We have breakfast and start packing. After parking on the sand, he is everywhere. About an hour we leave for the last crossing. The wind was very strong and it started to rain several times. We were met by men on a boat with a hefty Honda engine. Comrade Captain got along with them and found out that today there was a scheduled ship from Katravozh to Salekhard. We leaned on the oars and an hour and a half after leaving, landed in Katravozh. A boat was standing there and the obscene-looking ship Bragin was loading. Dima and I went up to them and asked if they were going to Salekhard or Labytnangi today. On the boat we were told that they did not know (he soon sailed away somewhere), but on Bragin they did not go. Then some old lady came out and, in response to our questions about the scheduled ship, said that the Zarya was supposed to be there today and that they called her and said that she would be there soon. We rushed to the kayaks and carried out a swift anti slip. While we were getting ready, a drunk man came up to us and offered to buy fish, we refused. Then he offered to take us on a boat with a Japanese motor to Labytnang for a couple of thousand. According to past reports, it was a very low price and we agreed. The man swayed and said that he would go and tell his wife. We gave him half an hour and we didn't see him again. But Zarya never came. Local residents began to gather on the shore, obviously with the aim of leaving. We learned from them that "Dawn" should arrive at 17:20 (local time). However, neither at 18:20 nor at 19:20 she did not come. We asked the locals if this was ok. They said that sometimes she was 3 hours late, and sometimes she didn't come at all. Frightened that we are dealing with the last option, we began to look for a motorboat. But it was not there. Wind, gentlemen, wind. The waves on the Ob are too high for motorboats. Several men, who were tinkering in the boat, refused to take us and expressed doubt that anyone would undertake it in such weather. We went to the village. At some house they saw a man repairing the net. We asked him if he knew who could take us. He did not offer himself, but called a friend. A friend said that he would not take it in such a wind. So keep in mind that you can be in a situation where you can not hire a boat. Either have a margin of time, or expect to reach Labytnang on your own (which is 50 km from Katravozh). After failing to hire a motorboat, I went berserk. Before us loomed the prospect of not getting on tomorrow's train, for which tickets had already been bought. Having darted around the village and not meeting anyone, I returned to the shore and then the Zarya came. The ticket cost 250 rubles, another 500 were taken from us for luggage. A couple of hours later we moored to the embankment of the Salekhard ferry crossing. Above the embankment towered a gloomy mammoth on a pedestal - you see, a symbol of permafrost. The crew of the "Dawn", having looked at us, decided to make another detour to Lybytnang, and we were thrown to the other side of the Ob River, completely free of charge. At the exit from the embankment of the crossing, a taxi driver, the owner of a six, caught us and invited us to go in his car. But at first we came up with four of us and only with a part of things. Joyfully agreeing, we ran for the rest of the things and the fifth member of the crew, so you should have seen the face of the driver. But, true to his word, he loaded everything, including us, and at third speed carefully drove to Labytnangi, which are several kilometers from the crossing. For three hundred rubles we were taken to the station. Comrade Captain and Vanya, for a modest fee, were allowed to spend the night on the train with most of their belongings, while Nastya and Masha and I went to the hotel recommended by the driver on Lenin Street. For 630 rubles per person we were offered a spacious and clean quadruple room. But the amenities were in the corridor, and the hot water was turned off. So we left from there and in 5 minutes we reached the "Seven Larch". This is the face of the city and I must say, the face is almost European. Reception with a minibar and all that. For 960 rubles from the nose, we settled there until the morning in cozy double rooms with all amenities. 11.08.05 Thursday. Departure. In the morning yesterday's taxi driver took us to the station for 50 rubles, we boarded train 209 and set off on our way back. The conductor decided to wash in the toilet and heated the water, as a result of which the heaters worked, and hot water flowed from the tap. The tropics reigned in the old carriage and the windows did not open. Thus ended our journey. postscriptum.
Useful and not so useful.
The most important thing when planning and passing a route is maps. On sale, I found only ten kilometers of the Tyumen region. Every tourist knows her price. Where to get good cards? I strongly recommend the site of the Leningrad club of tourists "Moskovskaya Zastava" http://www.ktmz.org.ru/ as a source of maps. From it there is a link to the page where the maps are directly laid out, the address of which is http://topmap.narod.ru/index.html. In the area of our campaign there are kilometers of moss-covered times. At the beginning and end of the route, the sheets are dated 1966, and the middle part is represented by a map published during the life of the Great Leader and before the railway was built to Labytnang (that is, before 1947). If anyone does not know, then Stalin decided to build a railway line through Labytnangi and Salekhard to the mouth of the Yenisei. Its part to the east of the Ob is the legendary Stalinskaya railway, construction sites 501 and 503. Until 1953, an ice railway across the Ob in winter and a railway ferry in summer operated, but after the death of the Leader, construction was stopped. And if from the western part of the road, which was built from Salekhard to the east, all the equipment was taken out along the crossing over the Ob, then eastern part the road that was built towards them was abandoned along with the equipment. A lot of information on this topic can be found on the Internet. To this day, many people take trips along this abandoned, swampy, ghost road, which, by the way, is marked on all maps of our country as inactive. Alexander Gorodnitsky was struck at one time by the picture of IS steam locomotives ingrown into the taiga swamps and, under the impression of this picture, he wrote a poem. To this we can add the fact that the zone in Kharp originates from the camp in which the prisoners employed at the construction of the railway were kept. I wonder what's enough detailed map The Ob channel in the area between Katravozh and Labytnangi is available on the MTS website, in the section "MTS for subscribers > Service area and roaming > MTS territory > Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug - Salekhard". Page address http://www.mts.ru/coverage/mts/salekhard/Q-4213/ . Yes, you can buy disks with scans of maps similar to those posted on the website of Leningraders at the tourist club on Bolshaya Kommunisticheskaya. These maps are good for orienting on them, despite their considerable age. Although Harp and the railway are not indicated on the middle sheet, the terrain and the river have undergone little change since then. To combine rafting along the Sobi with radials in the mountains, you can add this option. We had two ships and five crew members in our group, three of whom were going to walk in the mountains, and two, for health reasons, guard the camp. In this situation, an interesting option may be to split the group for the first two or three days of the trip with a meeting at the mouth of the Yenga-Yu. The light foot detachment, having crossed from the Sob station to the opposite bank of the river, marches about 4 kilometers to the west and goes to the mouth of the Nyrdvomenshor (northern), begins to climb up the channel and, after 15 kilometers, finds a pass on the left along the way. Leaving the stream bed to the left, the group will pass the pass and come to the headwaters of the Ker-doman-shor, the left tributary of the Yenga-Yu. From the valley of this stream, you can climb both right and left to the peaks of the Rayiz massif. After 25-30 kilometers after the Yenga-Yu pass, it flows into the Sob, where it is possible to appoint a rendezvous of two groups. We all liked the route, and we liked its potential opportunities more than what we managed to do. Our team had only 7 full days at their disposal, plus the slipway and anti slip days. It turned out to be almost two days (if we immediately entered Haramatalou there would have been exactly two), it was possible, taking into account the tailwind at three crossings after Haramatalou, to carve out one more, but with a headwind, such a situation would already be tense. There wasn’t much time in general, and there’s no need to talk about the days. I think that both fishermen and lovers of radial boats need to lay down 3-4 days to satisfy their passions. The river is completely relaxed for kayaking and can be recommended to the most inexperienced crews (like me and Nastya) and family groups. Not only we understood this - there were a lot of tourists and, according to local residents, their number continues to grow. Yes, about fishing. Of the five of us, none (!) was fond of fishing. At all. But everyone regretted that there were no tackles with them. So keep that in mind. And, of course, I recommend hiking to everyone. We ourselves went to the water solely because of Nastya's knee injury, followed by an operation a month before the trip. And so the Raiz array in view of the presence of its envelope railway, and indeed the mountains around it, are a wonderful place for hiking. So, comrades, download kilometers and - forward! Life is on the move! Konstantin Alekseev.
Waterman's notes. Polar Ural. Solitary rafting on the Sob River
Alloy video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RZGF_wJEZQ&t=1s (part 1)
Things are collected. In addition to the main backpack, a boat in a dry bag will go with me. Plus a spinning tube, a tent and a bag with food for the train. In general, there will be plenty of things. I'll go in a compartment, on the top shelf. It is very stuffy in Nizhny Novgorod, and it is generally impossible to stay in the apartment, I am sitting all damp. I leave tomorrow at 16.10.
Zabroska
The lower one accompanies me with rain, it got a little colder to +20. My parents are escorting me. I take the train Nizhny Novgorod - Vorkuta and go to the Seyda station. The compartment is full, a woman with a child and a granny are still traveling with me, they all go to Vorkuta. Boring. I lie down and read.
The boredom continues. I sleep, I lie, I read. Ate a couple of times. At night, many children came and the car turned into a “kindergarten”.
Wake up at 5 am. Ate mashed potatoes b / n. And began to prepare for the exit. At 6.10 I dragged all my things into the vestibule and waited for the exit. At 6.35 we arrived, Seyda station. I unloaded and a midge immediately flew in, I had to change clothes. I dragged my things to the shop and met Nizhny Novgorod residents there. They also go to Sob, only on a different train and go to the village of Kharp. Until 11.15 I read a book. The train came and I got loaded. Train Moscow - Labytnangi. I'm going to the Polar Ural station. In the compartment was a mother and son. Lena and Stas. They are from Salekhard, go to Labytnanga, and from there by ferry to Salekhard. We chatted about everything. The prices are said to be much higher than ours and the temperature is more severe, it definitely reaches -40, or even more.
In the compartment they fed me buckwheat with chicken. And at 14.15 I left. Stas helped pull things out. Parking 2 minutes.
After unloading, I went to the river Sob, to go to it about 1.5 km.
I went in two walks, it was impossible to drag everything. Not far from the river is the obelisk "Europe - Asia". Took a few photos.
The scenery is amazing, the weather is great. Mountains around. I reached Sobi, walked 4.5 km in total. Nearby was some kind of group, you see they were returning from a mountain hike. I pumped up the boat and crossed to the right bank of the river, the mountain tundra was all around, there were no trees at all.
I set up a tent. Cooked soup on gas. The water is pure, transparent, very tasty. Tomorrow, early in the morning, I think to climb the hill, if the weather permits. In the evening a midge flew in. A little annoying. At 22.00 local time I go to bed. Difference with Moscow +2 hours.
"Get Over Yourself"
It rained at night, and he did not let me get out of the tent. Until 10 am I was lying around, then I got out and saw that the mountains were in fog.
They are not visible at all. There will be no climb! I cooked rice - 2 servings. I ate one portion and put the other in a thermos. There are practically no moths. Cold. After dinner, I began to pack up, it's time to swim out. I packed everything and began to navigate the boat.
Since here the river is not raftable, it was flour. Passed several turns, guiding the boat. Many large stones lie in the river bed, blocking the path. It is not possible to carry out. Once, I almost fell into the water, it's good that there were wading boots.
In general, I decided to run around the shore. In total, I made 9 full-fledged walkers, but since there were a lot of things, I had to run back and forth. That is, at the output, it turned out 27 walkers. Walked about 10 km in total. But advanced, about 3.3 km. Not much. While dragging, it started to rain for a few minutes. In addition, 3 seagulls tried to attack me. But they soon left.
The sneakers got wet. I was dragging along the tundra, so everything was easy, the only problem was overcoming four streams. Then, approaching Sobi, I saw that I could try to resume the rafting, since the river had become slightly wider and there were no such huge stones here.
And everything worked out. Of course, a couple of times I had to get out and guide the boat, but you can already swim. There are riffles, they carry well there.
There is no current in the “lulls”. I sailed a couple of islands, ran aground once - I had to push the boat out. And having swum about 3 kilometers, I stood on the parking lot on the right bank.
There are trees along the river. Tomorrow the real adventure will begin. In the parking lot, on gas, I made tea and eat rice with dried meat. Tundra. Beauty all around. A beautiful river valley and mountains, that's what is next to me. If the weather permits tomorrow, I will try to climb the nearby hill. A lot of midges flew out, especially when there is no wind. At about 23:00, local time, I go to bed. Trains pass occasionally. Pink sunset appeared. Today I tried cloudberry, but it is already moving away. The taste is reminiscent of grated apples.
“Great rafting day”
Cool at night, climbed into the sleeping bag with his head. Woke up at 6 am. I got out of the tent, looked at the mountains. Part of the mountains under the clouds, then I'll sleep, I won't climb anywhere. At 8.15 I decided to climb out of the tent. The weather is cloudy and cool.
On the burner, made two servings of rice. I ate one and put the other in a thermos. Then he began to gather. From the parking lot, took a few pebbles.
Sailed out at 11 am. Went through a few jumps. The sun is out, the clouds are receding. Then a few more rapids, carries like a tram. The main thing is not to please the stone, you must always be on the alert!
A flock of ducks appeared ahead, a few turns, and I swam after them. But when he approached them, they dived into the water. Then he sailed to the village of Polyarny - station 110 km. He went ashore, looked at him from afar and swam on.
There are shallows in places. Several times I had to get out and push the boat. Then he passed the left tributary, the Bolshaya Paipudyna River. And having sailed a little further, I saw two fishermen on boats.
The views around are awesome, the breeze blew away all the midges. The tundra is receding, and the mountains and hills are approaching.
Having sailed 35 kilometers, I decided to climb the hill, which is located on the right. Right there, literally two hundred meters away is the Sob station. He left his things on the shore, and took valuable things with him. He tied the boat and climbed up. The height before the ascent was 122 meters. Time 16.00. I get up quickly, because I go light. But the shrubbery is preventing me from going. Climbing 100 meters. I saw an awesome view.
And after 38 minutes from the start of the ascent, I was already at the top. Height 340 meters. The beauty! The crossed river valley is visible. Having photographed and photographed landscapes, I began to descend.
Went down at 17.05. In total I walked 2 km 250 meters. While I was climbing, two fishermen, whom I had seen earlier, swam by. They were turning boats near the bridge. I asked about the catch. They said they caught a little, there is even a big fish. I don't know which one, but I think it's grayling. When I was loading, I dropped the navigator into the water, it’s good that I found it. You have to be careful and close your pockets.
I swim through the bridge, mountains and hills surround me from all sides. Highly Beautiful places! Holds well in places. On the right is high mountain. Most likely, this is Mount Pour - Kay, its height is 876 meters. And there is a hill nearby.
At 19.00 I decided to park on the right bank. Fortunately, there is a parking lot, there is a hearth. I immediately collected firewood, lit a fire and put on tea. He fired a rocket launcher into the water. After 10 minutes, a “shishiga” arrived, on the “spit” next to me. How? Then she moved to the other side and disappeared.
I drank some tea, ate rice from a thermos with dried meat, and at 22.40 I go to bed. A white-yellow sunset in the sky.
"Rainy day"
At three in the morning I woke up, got out of the tent and saw that everything was in clouds. Part of the mountains is not visible. It might rain. I went to the tent to sleep. Slept until 10.20. It rained twice. But when I got out of the house, he was no longer there, I set up a church and began to cook two portions of buckwheat. At this time, the rain began to drizzle. Buckwheat was cooked for about 12 days. The rain intensified. I ate and set tea to be made. After drinking a mug of tea, the rain drove me into the tent at about 13:00. Relaxing. At 13.50 it ended. After lying down for another 40 minutes, I began to take shape. Gotta keep sailing!
I leave at 15:45. In open areas strong wind, very difficult to swim, speed 1-2 km / h. But the views are beautiful, although some of the mountains are hidden under the clouds. On some rifts it is possible to accelerate. Then I met a tourist on the shore, he appeared from the tent. Swims to Kharp, catches grayling. By the way, today I also assembled a spinning rod, put on a poisonous blue fox No. 2 and try to catch - but nothing pecks.
Sob in some places beats on the sleeves, wherever you want, swim there. Then I see two more fishermen, there is a station 134 kilometers away, they also catch grayling. One pecked. The man said that he had seen “submariners”, who told him that they were diving into the pit, they say they eat grayling, but do not take it.
I swim further. Sob meanders among the mountains, very beautiful. If only the weather was sunny. At 6:30 p.m. it began to drizzle again. Small - small nasty drizzle. Moving on, on the right, on a high bank, I saw a rubber boat. Then immediately a fast and powerful roll. The waves are pretty big. It shook a little.
Then there is a turn to the left and a high right bank. I look, I see an open space, I need to look at the parking lot. There are two parking lots and both are dirty, rubbish is lying around, cans, bottles. Decided to stand in the far parking lot. Moved things and the boat. There is practically no firewood here, everything is cleaned. I set up a tent. A lot of midges flew in, especially where there is no wind. The surface for the tent is not comfortable - stones. But somehow I'll settle down. I decided not to mess with the fire, the firewood is damp. The food is already in a thermos, but instead of tea, I will drink water.
I had a snack in the tent and went to bed at 21.00. It's hard to believe that there will be tomorrow good weather. After 40 minutes, it started to rain with thunder and lightning. But by midnight, it was over.
“Rai mountain range - Iz. Urban Harp”
I get up at 9 in the morning, a strong wind blows. There are no moths. I light a fire. It burns badly, the firewood is damp. I cook buckwheat - 2 servings. Cloudy but sometimes the sun comes out. By 11.00 I have eaten and begin to pack. Today I have to go through the village. Harp.
At 11.50 I swim out and literally after 500 meters, the mountain range Rai - Iz appeared. It stretches for 55 kilometers. Waterfalls flow from above. Handsomely!
Climbed to the high bank to take a picture.
Then the first step of the threshold appeared, I looked at it and passed. Then two more steps of the threshold, the second goes on the turn to the right, and the third at the exit. And the third one seems to be more powerful. I decided to enclose it on the right, I managed it in 30 minutes. The time is already 17.30. A double kayak passed right there. I swim further, after 150 meters turn left and roll, then another one. Next comes the bridge and another threshold, kayakers inspect it. I swam up to them and greeted them. Maksim and Elena swim 110 km from the station to Katrovozh. This threshold can be walked as on the left, but it is more dangerous there, but you can go on the right. I went to the right, there is a rather powerful drain. Here I decided to lead the boat, the benefit is the rope, that is. Then he jumped into the boat and swam. At the end of the threshold, there are good shafts. We chatted a little.
The river Engai flows to the right. Roll, carries very quickly. I swim, I fish, but to no avail. I'm looking at the parking lot.
As a result, at 19.00 I found a parking lot on the right bank. The place is excellent, there is a fire pit and a bench. I immediately made tea, then ate buckwheat. Boatmen sailed by, on two boats with a motor, they stood somewhere not far from me. Then there was a kayak with Maxim and Lena.
At 22.00 I went fishing, nothing, just hooked a lure. But I fished for 15 minutes. At 22:30 he went to bed. There is practically no cloudiness, there was a beautiful pink - yellow sunset. I don't know what the weather will be like tomorrow...
August 11 (Thurs.) (5 days of travel) (Sailed 36.2 km. Total 103 km)
“First fish. Northern nature”
I woke up around 6. I look light, but cool. The sun is shining for the first time in the morning. At 6 I get up, make a fire and start cooking soup - kharcho. Today is soup day. By 8 am I ate, ate 1.5 servings. I poured one portion into a thermos. After breakfast, I start getting ready. Today my goal is to sail the Hanmei River and set up camp near the Orehyogan tributary. From there I'm going to go to the tundra lakes. Swim about 30 km.
Rafting began at 9.50. Sunny, great weather. The current is good, rifts. Sob winds, sometimes broken into several sleeves.
Having sailed 5 kilometers, on the left bank I met an already familiar kayak. Landed, talked a little.
Continuing to move, they soon overtook me. I try to fish, but silence.
Having overcome 13 kilometers, I see that there is a kayak, they are fishing, but it does not bite. Maxim and Lena, by the way, are from Moscow. Having sailed 150 meters, I look into Sob something flows. The grass is flattened, which means that people fished here. Here, at the junction of the Sob and the tributary, there is a stall and a hole, the current is strong. I threw it several times - silence, shifted a little lower ... Yes, grayling.
Hooray! The first grayling - 400 grams. Doesn't bite anymore. I call the Muscovites, they pecked one, but smaller. And I swam on.
The next target is the Hamney River, I am sailing there. There are long straight lines, the banks are almost all similar. Parking lots are not visible. Then two boats appeared, catching grayling, sailing to Labytnanga. But they are on the motor. Having swum a little more, two inflatable kayaks appeared. Two aged men are pulling kayaks against the current. They say they were on the river Haramatalou.
Visible parking lot. I'll try to fish in the mouth, the current is powerful. A little higher there is a calm, there is a fry splashing. You can see the pike is chasing. A few casts and there is a bite, a pleasant haul - a pike per 1 kg 250 grams. While unhooking the lure, Muscovites are swimming, calling for fishing. A small grayling pecked at Maxim. Then I try again, a few casts and there is a second pike, but this one is smaller. I let her go, I don’t need so many fish, but the Muscovites didn’t want to take her. Stop fishing. We chatted a bit, I had a snack and moved on.
While fishing, two boats overtook me again. The places are monotonous, there are not enough mountains. In some places, the landscape resembles our lowland rivers. But here, it carries faster. At some point, Sob again broke into two sleeves, I decided to go on the right, although I saw that the main move was on the left.
I had to wind around a little, in some places there was no current at all, and then this channel narrowed and, nevertheless, connected with the main channel. There should be a tributary of the Orehyogan soon.
Again two forks, I decide to swim on the left. And the Orehyogan River just flows into the right channel. In fact, I didn't even see him. I swim and look for a parking lot, on a high bank it is not possible, bushes. And on the sandy shore, there is a problem with firewood. Anyway, I decided to stop on the sand.
Time 21.00. Gathered wood quickly. But there are not many. He built a fire, pitched a tent and made tea. Then I make an ear, a lot of fish. I cook the fish in two portions. The ear is thick. I ate half of pike and grayling. Broth and the rest of the fish for tomorrow. It was an interesting day. And the sunset is absolutely amazing. I fiddle with my diary and maps. It wasn't until about midnight that I went to bed.
“The Haramatalou River. Luppayogan River”
Woke up at 7.30. It's hot in the tent. Outside, the sun is warm. Living creatures in the form of mosquitoes and midges are not yet visible. I make a fire, I need to warm up my ear. At this time, I remove the awning from the tent, everything is in condensate, let it dry. Then I ate. Two pieces of pike and some broth left for a snack. At 8:30 I went fishing. Yesterday, a fry was splashing near the camp. But nothing clicked. I'll get ready, I'll swim soon. I decided not to go to the lakes, I don’t want to wade through the bushes. I'd rather go fishing at the mouth of the Haramatalou River.
At 10 o'clock I swam out, I swim, I fish, but silence. There is a current as long as it carries. It's hot today, stop for a swim, the water is cold, but still nice.
Under the right bank, there was a calm. I see the fish jumping out. There's a whole flock there. I throw a lure, but they don’t take it. Here a small grayling swims, after all, there was one bite. Somehow it is hard to swim, in some places the current is weak. Then there is a turn to the right, there is a group on two catamarans with motors. I wave to them. Then there is a long turn to the left, with a high right bank. Beautiful, but the current is weak.
I swam to the right tributary of the Sob, the river Haramatalou. This is a very famous river, in narrow circles. Left the spinner, nothing. He bit his ear and swam.
There are a few twists and turns different side. The river rushes back and forth.
I was overtaken by a boatman on a motorboat. Then another. There is a current in places, but in some places it is very weak. Rollovers are very rare. At about 17.00 I swam to the right tributary of the Sob, the Luppayogan River. There is a hut and a bathhouse. That's it, I stop here in the parking lot.
I immediately went fishing. From the first cast “in the lull” I took the baby bee. He let go. Then another. He, too, was sent to swim further. I don't need pike anymore. Perhaps it was the same little pup. Doesn't bite anymore.
Then the catamarans arrived. They also fish. Just in a slightly different place. Then a fisherman arrived in a motorboat. We get acquainted, Victor from the village. Harp. He says that the pike does not bite, the fry overeat. And so, here they catch pike for 6 - 8 kg. He asked about the “Muscovites” on a kayak, he says that he saw them near the river. Haramatalou. So they'll be arriving soon. Victor is fishing on a big “spoon”. And I, "turntable" throw. And there is, caught perch 400 grams. Hooray! Will, perch on the go. Victor swam, and I began to make tea.
Firewood is fresh and raw. They burn very badly and do not prick. Tea is ready, I see the Muscovites, Maxim and Lena, are swimming. I call them to my camp. I serve tea, we talk. Tomorrow, according to the plan, they have a day, there will be a bath. They want to throw themselves out of the river on August 18, and I on August 15. Maxim went fishing, from the first cast a small pike pecked, she was released. There is nothing more.
They swam on, they still need to find a parking lot. Well, I took up perch and rice. I made rozhon and began to bake perch. And rice, I put it on a gas burner. The bonfire is burning. Perch turned out with a bang. Very tasty! Then he ate rice, and put the second portion in a thermos. Put up a tent and at 23.40 went to bed. In the evening a midge flew out, it was very unpleasant.
"Reindeer. Fish again"
I woke up at 5:30 and went fishing. There were two bites, but nothing pulled out. Fished for 40 minutes. Then he went to eat rice, and at the same time boiled more rice and put it in a thermos. I start gathering. Before sailing, he left the lure for about 20 minutes. A chebak pecked, a fish similar to a roach. She was released, or rather, she herself was released, right on the shore.
At 9.30 I swam out, the current is not strong, but there is. Many long straight lines, tedious to swim.
Met a boat of fishermen from Kharp. Having sailed 7 km, I saw “Muscovites” on the right bank. I swim towards them. They say: -“Deer, deer”. And indeed, on the opposite bank a young reindeer. I photographed it and filmed it with a video camera.
I moor, they treat me with lightly salted grayling and tea with cookies and chocolate. Thank you! The grayling is delicious, I eat such a dish for the first time. Maxim says that he caught two pikes, weighed, 3 and 2 kg. Not bad. The place here is good for fishing, just a small bay. I also decided to go fishing. And after seven minutes, a pike pecked at 2.2 kg. Hooray!
I wanted to release it, because I don’t want to mess with the fish, but it doesn’t swim away. I had to pick it up. Maxim cut it for me, cleaned it and cut it into fillets. Thanks!! Total clean meat 1.3 kg. A lot, but nothing to eat.
A strong side wind has risen, blowing me to the left bank. The motorboat sailed, said hello. Sob is wide here, 80-100 meters wide, this is a large corridor for the wind. Then, all the same, the kayakers caught up with me. Let's swim further.
On the left bank, there are already familiar catamaran sailors. Sob makes a sharp turn to the left, and the right bank is high. There is a roll, plus the wind in the back, it carries well here, about 11 km / h. Having sailed a little, the kayakers nevertheless stood on the left bank. I landed too. I had a bite of rice with dried meat, we chatted a little. We said goodbye, now we will definitely not see each other again on this trip.
Then he set up his tent and lay down. The wind began to rise, I went to strengthen the tent and managed to cut my leg with an ax, which was lying in the vestibule with the tip to the top. The wound is not big, but unpleasant. One needs to be careful. I processed the wound and at 23.30 I go to bed.
There is very little left to the village of Katravozh. All night, there was a powerful wind.
“Good fishing”
Woke up at 8.30. He lit a fire, warmed up his ear. I ate, put the rest in a thermos. The weather is good, the sun, but the wind. It will be difficult to swim on a wide river. I start gathering. Today it is necessary to stop at a parking lot near Katravozh, and tomorrow find out and agree on a drop in Labytnangi.
At 10.50 I swam out, I immediately start fishing. Put the "oscillator" Mepps Cyclops - 2, it weighs 17 grams. I will fish like a local. At first it carries well, there is a current, besides, the wind in the back helps. Ahead of a small roll, I throw, there is a fish. This is a perch, large, 300 grams for sure. I let go and keep going. A few minutes later I throw the lure into the “lull”, under the left bank. There is another perch, but a little smaller. This is some interesting fishing. Perch released, I do not want to mess with the fish.
Sob makes a left turn, the water is cloudy, not like in the mountains. It’s probably deep here, just pike places have gone. And indeed, casting is a bite, this is a pike. Resists. Seems like a good one. I take it out, weigh 1.9 kg. Fine. Deep throated, took out the lure of spruce. I want to let go, but she does not swim, she floats on her belly, just like yesterday. I have to eat fish again.
I swim on, the river makes a long turn to the left. I see that fishermen are standing on the right bank, I think I need to approach them and give the pike back, and at the same time ask about throwing out from Katravozh. I said hello, the pike is not needed, they themselves have it. They themselves are from Salekhard. They say about Katravozh that you can negotiate with the locals there. They offered food and drink. But no, I swam on. Sob is wide, 100 meters, if not more. There are many motorboats. Sunday, people go fishing, relax. Warm, the sun bakes well.
It's only 15.20, and I'm already in the parking lot. Fine. Katravozh is about 15 km away. And I still mess with pike. I immediately brewed tea, poured it into a bottle and began to deal with pike. I will cook. In the meantime, I’ll have a bite of fish soup from a thermos.
Then he boiled the pike. I ate a few bites, delicious! He didn’t make fish soup, but boiled pure pike with seasoning. Then he went fishing, near the camp. As a result, two good perch, which he released. We would peck at such a perch, that would be fishing. Then, in the camp, I finished the pike and boiled buckwheat for tomorrow. And back to fishing. Familiar men drove up, who refused the pike. They offered to take me right now to Salekhard. But I refused. Thank you. Nicely! Tomorrow I will agree in Katravozh.
Nothing else pecked and I went to the camp. Cleaned everything up, folded the spinning and went to bed at 22.30. Tomorrow will be an early rise.
(v. Katravozh. Labytnangi)
Woke up at 5.30. It's cold, but you have to get up. In the tent I ate buckwheat from a thermos. Then he unfastened the awning from the tent, let it dry. Started gathering. Everything, the last day of the rafting has come. I am sailing to Katravozh.
There is no flow. There is a long straight line. Near the camp, it turns out there was a house, probably a winter hut. I swim to the dredger. On the right bank, a man pulls out a pike, but it is not big. Hello.
Then the river makes a long turn to the right. Width 200 meters. Swimming is not interesting at all! Just good fishing. Swim slowly, speed 3 - 4 km/h. And yes, there is a breeze. Sometimes there are fishermen. I ask them about the transfer to Labytnangi. They say there can be an agreement.
Long monotonous straight lines are replaced by protracted turns. At the turn to the right, there is a large wooden building. It's like a glacier or a warehouse. Then I had a confusion. Half of the left oar, along with the blade, sailed away, I had to undress and swim after it. Good thing she doesn't drown. Caught up with her, moored on the shore. The bolt flew out, probably loosened on stones and rifts in the upper reaches. Replaced it with a branch. It seems to be holding on, it should last until the end of the alloy.
And then went straight and a long turn to the left. Antennas are visible, houses are standing. That's all! I am in the village of Katravozh. I swam 17.5 kilometers today. And only 180.8 kilometers. For 9 running days.
I immediately asked the local how to leave, he said that the ship left today, in the morning. He goes 3 times a week. Another boat drove up, they sent me to the peasants on the shore. They say they can bring it, but it's better to wait for more people. That will be cheaper. In general, I add up, dry the boat. I arrived here around 13:30. At about 16.00 we still went to Labytnangi. Loaded into the “cauldron” with a 40-horsepower motor Yamaha and go. In 1 hour and 5 minutes we arrived with a breeze.
Ejection.
Bought a ticket this morning. First, I go to the Seyda station, by train Labytnangi - Vorkuta, the price is 1462 rubles. I'm going to the coupe. In Seida, change to the train Vorkuta - Nizhny Novgorod, the price is 5114 rubles, also a coupe. Left Labytnangi on 08/16/2016 at 10:45, arrived in Nizhny Novgorod on 08/18/2016 at 9:10. The hike is over.
A favorite place for travelers in the Polar Urals is the valley of the Sob River. Boundless expanse, amazing, semi-wild nature, cold but crystal pure water and a lot of fresh air - that's what awaits travelers who decide to go there for the first time.
Location
The Sob River is located in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. Its sources originate from the eastern ridges of the Polar Urals, pass intermountain slopes through the urban-type settlement of Harpi, then flow into the Ob, being its left tributary.
The Sob River divides the Polar Urals into sides that are completely different from each other in terms of geological structure. The reservoir is located just in its central part. The width of the mountainous area from the north reaches 125 km. It is characterized by a division by valleys with a height of passes in the region of 200 meters. The western side has quite sharp and steep slopes. Southern peaks such as Payer, Telpos-Iz reach a height of up to 1617 m.
A bit of history
The earliest mention of the reservoir dates back to the end of the 11th and beginning of the 12th centuries. The etymology of the name retained its old Russian roots. In the ancient Novgorod dialect, the word "sob" meant "belongings, knapsacks, property."
The supposed explanation for this name is the transport function of the river in those days. Past the mountain ranges of the Urals or "Stone" (the former name) ran a waterway from Europe to Asia. Chinese, Europeans, Persians, Russians, Vikings passed here - they were looking for traces of the “golden woman” idol. In winter and summer, people were transported along the river, transporting their belongings, property, and all kinds of other goods. In the people, the Sob River is still called so, “knapsack”. Later, railway tracks were built along its channel from the Seyda station to Kharp.
Main characteristics
The Sob River goes around from the east and up to the confluence with the Ob. The length of its channel reaches 185 km. The width of the reservoir is not the same throughout, and ranges from 30 to 60 meters, expanding to the lower reaches. To the bottom is about 1.5-2 m. The total area of the basin is 5,892 square kilometers.
Food is mostly snow. The flood period falls on the hot days of June and July, at which time the snowy mountain peaks melt. After prolonged rains, spills are not uncommon. Most often, freezing occurs by the end of October.
The water is very cold, smooth and fairly clear. The upper reaches and the middle are a typical mountain river with a stormy flow, with many rifts. Its speed reaches up to 5 km/h. One of the steepest rapids is located near the urban-type settlement of Kharp. The lower part has all the qualities of a flat river, having a gentle coastline, a wide channel, and a slower flow.
The hydrography of the Sob River is represented by many different tributaries. There are more than 20 of them, including Sormasyegan, Evlychegan on the left side, Harosim, Lupayegan - on the right. However, the main tributaries are Orekhyogan (at 83 km), Khara-Matolou (at 74 km), adjoining on the right, as well as Khanmei (at 93 km) and Bolshaya Paipudyna (at 153 km), on the left.
Sob River: climate conditions and nature
It is no coincidence that this corner of nature is very popular with many tourists. Surrounded on all sides by mountain peaks, with occasionally melting snow-white cover, the Sob River is bewitchingly beautiful. Low coasts and numerous island zones are mostly covered with dense forests. Spruces, larch predominate in these places, often there are birch groves and thickets of willows. Walks in the forest will not leave anyone indifferent, especially in the second half of the summer months, when the tundra is rich in abundance of lingonberries, blueberries, cloudberries, and fresh mushrooms. The steep slopes of the valley are mostly treeless.
On the territory of the basin there are deposits of unique natural resources, such as uranium, jade, marble, barite, jasper and others. Periodically, high-quality gravel and sand are mined.
The Sob River unites severe climatic conditions Siberian anticyclone and European air vortices. Therefore, this region has cold, but very snowy winters. A constant strong wind determines the nature and speed of the river. Temperature indicators are also unstable, and can be different in the mountains and on the plain. in winter average temperature is minus 20 ° C, but often the scale on the thermometer drops to minus 40 ° C. Spring, autumn and summer are very short. Several pleasant summer days can be abruptly interrupted by heavy rains, hail and unbearable cold.
Despite the fact that the water here is icy almost all year round, life is in full swing in the reservoir. Diverse river fauna where the most valuable breeds fish, is a permanent place for both summer and ice fishing. The nature of the Urals is able to give its fruits not only to local residents, but also to numerous travelers and tourists.
Types of tourism
With a truly picturesque coastline that is mostly mountainous, the Sob River is a huge hit with adventure seekers.
The journey is of particular interest to lovers of ecotourism. Grandiose landscapes and polar landscapes allow vacationers to appreciate a truly wild and almost untouched beauty. Having made a hike along the Sob River, you can appreciate the unique views of the surrounding natural objects. Most often, ecological tours include expeditions to mountain peaks located along the coastal zone. From a height, a view of the amazing expanses and the icy water surface opens up in a special bewitching way.
One of the most famous hills where tourists like to visit is the Rai Is Plateau. Here, among the mountain lakes and the jade waterfall, it remains only to forget about everything and enjoy the beauty. Other natural object, which also will not leave anyone indifferent, is the waterfall on the stream - Northern Nyrdvomenshor.
The aquatic fauna of this area is also of inalienable interest for tourists. It is represented by various types of fish, among which there are many valuable and specially bred species. In relation to the water industry, this area is especially interesting.
However, the polar exotic Yamal attracts vacationers not only by fishing. It attracts tourists with the unusual purity of water bodies and fresh air. One of the most popular and exciting pastimes is rafting on the Sob River. It is usually done on catamarans.
Everyone can choose for themselves the tourist package they like. It is necessary to prepare documents and make an exciting journey under the strict guidance of an experienced guide. On the Sob River, a single swim is also possible.
The most suitable time for this type of recreation is the high water season, which occurs in the first days of June. At this time, there is still practically no midges, the water takes it well, the weather is not so severe. And if you plan a trip for the last summer months, you can enjoy not only beautiful nature, but also stock up on berries and mushrooms for the winter.
Fishing features
Fishing on the Sob River comes in handy if a visiting traveler is interested not only in the catch itself, but also in the amazing atmosphere around.
The Ural region is famous not only for the abundance of mushrooms and berries, but also for its rich aquatic fauna. It will not be difficult for vacationers to spend time usefully in the fresh air and catch large fish for vacationers. Here you can catch grayling, pike, taimen. Even despite the popularity among guests of this particular type of tourism, fish is not translated in these places. Everyone will be able to steal a decent catch without experiencing any competitive pressure.
At the beginning of the route, up to the tributary of the Khara-Matolou, grayling comes across for the most part. However, the fish can be quite picky, but patience and a special approach will bring considerable results.
Further in the mouth, you can arrange a short rest, walk up to the rapids of Gagarin and Titov. Fishing on this section of the route is notable, grayling swims "right into the hands." Reservoirs downstream of the tributary will be a real gift for pike lovers. This is where you can count on a big catch. The average individual weighs 6-8 kg, but quite often come across quite heavy, weighing up to 12 kilograms.
It is possible that fish species such as whitefish, broad whitefish, muskun, nelma, sturgeon may be on the hook, since the Sobsky fish breeding plant operates on the territory of Kharp, which is engaged in increasing the population and restoring the most valuable species of fish in the Lower Ob basin.
Movement along the water route
The railway station "Polyarny Ural" on the Sob River, or "101" km is the starting point of the water route. The final destination is the urban-type settlement of Kharp.
The swim is 46 kilometers long and takes about two days in total. Along the left bank along the route, there are railway tracks. The upper reaches are quite shallow and it is often possible to run aground, therefore, often at the very beginning of the journey, manual navigation of water transport is used. This moment should definitely be taken into account and, when going on a trip, take high-top boots with you, so as not to get wet and sting in the icy water.
Having reached the Bolshaya Paipudyn tributary, you can enjoy the surrounding beauties already sitting in a catamaran.
The left tributary of the Hamney is even more full-flowing, the width of its channel is up to 60 meters, and the rifts become deeper. Further on the right side, other tributaries appear, one of the largest - Khara-Matolou, reaches a width of 200 meters.
Features of the river near the village of Kharp
Not far from the village of Kharp on the Sob River, on the left coastline, the so-called Kharpsky three-stage threshold is located, 500 meters long, with many scattered stones. These features provided the reservoir with the second category in terms of difficulty of overcoming.
Throughout the water surface, there are large lonely standing stones, shivvers, small islands from a pebble embankment. The depth of the river is heterogeneous, starting from 30 centimeters in the upper reaches and reaching two meters along the tributaries.
Making a solo rafting along the Sob River, the classic route can be continued to the mouth, where the reservoir flows into the boundless waters of the Ob, to the fishing village of Katravozh. From there, having agreed with the locals about the boat, it is easy to get to the river ports of Salekhard and Labytnangi.
Path to the valley
It is possible to get to the coveted route only by rail. Or in another way, if you are the owner of an all-terrain vehicle.
Rail transport in that direction goes either from Moscow or from Vorkuta. It is best to get to the starting point of the tourist expedition by train Moscow - Labytnangi. Another option is to start your journey from Vorkuta. You can also get to it by train, which goes along the route from many cities, including Nizhny Novgorod, Kirov, Adler and others. The long-distance train of Vorkuta-Labytnanga departs every day and will take the tourist to the first stop - Sob. Starting from the upper reaches of Kharp and ending with the mouth near the fishing village of Katravozh, the route is more than 150 kilometers. On the boat of local residents, you can get along the Ob to Labytangi to the railway station.
It should be taken into account that the location of the Arctic Ocean in close proximity makes the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug a border zone. And this, in turn, implies the observance of certain conditions for vacationers, namely the issuance of a special pass. However, this procedure is not fast, and therefore you should worry in advance. The border department of the FSB is engaged in the preparation of documents. For citizens of the Russian Federation, a permit paper is issued within a month, and foreign persons will have to wait about 60 days.
In order to make your vacation truly memorable, choose the summer months for a trip to the Polar Urals - June, July, August.
Ensuring a productive pastime and safety during the trip is determined by a number of important conditions, among which:
- comfortable, warm clothes and shoes;
- glasses with an ultraviolet factor and a protective body cream;
- correctly selected equipment depending on the complexity and duration of the route;
- mosquito nets and ointments;
- a well-thought-out diet for the entire period of stay (in no case should you drink alcohol).
The territory should be moved only in clear weather and good visibility. Feeling uncomfortable or feeling unwell, you should always stop and take a short break.
Swimming or even washing in the river is dangerous. The water is icy, the bottom is rocky and slippery almost along the entire perimeter, and the current reaches 6 m / s. It is also not recommended for beginners to go on a journey all alone, since cases of injury or loss of orientation are not ruled out.
During the campaign, you cannot deliberately create provocative and dangerous moments for yourself and others.
When a complex emergency arises and it is impossible to resolve the problem on your own, it is important not to lose your temper. Try to find a way to communicate your situation to rescuers as soon as possible and not change locations until they arrive.
experience indescribable feelings and you can get a storm of positive emotions, even if you are an absolute beginner, without experience or a knowledgeable guide nearby.
To obtain certain knowledge of the area, it is necessary to use any available means from modern information technologies. And only after studying the detailed reports of regular tourists, taking with you the things and equipment necessary for the journey, including navigation, you should set off on your journey. The main condition for the implementation of any idea or cherished dream is a strong desire, to which you need to make every effort, and then everything will certainly work out.
August 2. Getting ready in the morning, once again looking to see if they forgot something. In Syktyvkar we get into cars and drive to the city of Mikun. In Mikun, we left the cars under guard by acquaintance. And we got on the train from Moscow to Vorkuta. In view of the fact that there was an ambush with tickets, we purchased tickets with transfers and in a common carriage. By train we get to the station Seyda and transfer to another Vorkuta-Labytnangi train. After driving a few hours, we arrive at Sob station. We go to it. After a few smokes, having rested from unloading numerous luggage and inventory. We begin to move towards the river on the slipway. From the station to the river about 100 meters. Having pumped up the catamaran, having loaded, we had a bite. Someone dipped the combat 100 gr for arrival. 
At first, we sailed as it is not coordinated. As in the fable about “Swan, pike and cancer”))). But still got used to it. We swam until about 22 o’clock. I was impressed. Stones, pebbles. We slept like yogis. But this did not overshadow our expectations. We woke up in the morning and had breakfast. The beauty is indescribable. 
The mountains walked right at the foot. The water was as pure as a tear. We rafted and admired the Polar Ural beauties. On the first day we reached the Rai Yz waterfall. Usually tourists climb up the mountain. There is a jade waterfall. But we didn’t waste time. Since we made a mistake, we bought tickets for the return trip in advance. there is no fish yet to the village of Kharp. And we just walked admiring the beauties of the local landscape. Next again, parking. Everything is the same as the previous one. Dinner, drying clothes, and overnight. And again in the morning we went further. We met quite a few teams along the way. We don’t even remember who came from where. And not much before reaching Kharp, the fish began to show itself. And we happily started fishing. 
We caught the largest grayling of our entire trip. Then we went and fished. There is a strict regime zone in front of Kharp, right along the coast. And behind the thorn, you can see the golden-domed chapel. Just as we were sailing through it, a bell ringing could be heard from it. There is a store in Kharp. So if you suddenly need to replenish supplies or you suddenly forgot to take something, you can buy it there. But I’ll immediately say the prices are higher, for example, than in Syktyvkar. Example... Bread in Syktyvkar a loaf of 21 rubles, in Kharp 50 rubles. Well, the same story with the rest of the products. The store is located 300-500 meters from the coast, along the road. It will be immediately clear on the spot. Just in front of the rapids. Also in Kharp there is a difficulty of the route. The threshold is of the 2nd category. You can pass it along the shore, and if there is little adrenaline in the blood, like we had, then along the river. In general, we passed the threshold and met another group from Belarus. Next, the goal is the mouth of Haramatolou. Catching taimen is not uncommon there. But we had another goal. Having passed the mouth with a couple of kilometers. We parked on the high bank. I had previously studied this place for myself while still in my city. In general, there is an old all-terrain vehicle there. 
You can walk along it in 25 minutes. And you are already on the Haramatolou River, not far from the Gagarin Rapids. It is about 8 km up from the mouth of the Khara. So we reduced a lot. People went up there all day with boats, katamiya. But we went with Sobi directly on foot and in 25 minutes. We decided to climb further than the Gagarin threshold. But we met a group of people from Zelenograd. no. The river is completely shallow and there is practically none. Due to the very hot summer in the mountains, the snow has melted and no longer feeds the rivers. As a result, we went back but with fishing. Having caught more grayling, we approached the point where we left in the morning. And we headed back to the camp. Roma was waiting for us there, a member of our team who stayed to guard things and the catamaran. After lunch, we loaded everything onto the kat and sailed on. The river became quite calm more and more often. There is a biobase at the mouth of this river. There is a bathhouse, a hut. After examining the whole thing, we didn’t heat the bathhouse. Since vandals had been there before us. I think it’s real to wash in it, but we need to put things in good order. they already drove to the other side. And we stopped for the night on the other side, admiring the hut and the bathhouse))). Being right at the mouth of the Luppayegan River, I noticed an interesting thing. On the left, the river is bright, clean and transparent. And as soon as the river flows in, it’s already black. It was there that we caught pike. .Next, our goal was an old, abandoned ATV. I knew about it by studying earlier reports. It was from him that a trophy pike should have pecked. 
And so we found it. It is located on the right bank about 3 km from the black river. It didn’t matter for us the pike pecked. Then we went to the pike pits. They are already on a wide section of the river. km from the old all-terrain vehicle. There we stopped for the night. And there we met local fishermen who sailed from Katrovozh on their backs. They told us that the water had risen up the Ob, propped up by about a meter. And the weather was terrible. this is how a motorboat with spinning usually gets up and pulls pikes as much as 300 kg. not really a fisherman. The village of Katrovozh was waiting for us in front of us. We met a team from Ukraine. And usually tourists can hire locals. They will take them to Labytnangi for 1500-2000 rubles. You can bargain with them. But we decided to save on this and catch a boat. Its price is 150 rubles. In general, we pressed on and sailed even earlier. The boat itself was already standing on the shore. But it sails only tomorrow. We spent the night not far from the village. -Labytnangi. On a freight ferry for free. And we still had to spend one night at the station. In the meantime, we walked around the city and looked at local sights. We went to a local fishmonger not far from the station. We bought Muksun fish from him. .From late, I received a lot of impressions. And I decided for myself that next year I will definitely come again. Perhaps with his wife.
The Sob fought its way through the watershed of the Ural Mountains. Starting in Europe, the Sob flows through Asia. It belongs to the Ob River basin, being its left tributary.
It originates between two mountain ranges - Sobsky and Rai-Iz. The length of the Sob River is 174 kilometers, and the basin area is 6350 square kilometers. The width of the river is from 30 to 60 meters, in the lower reaches it becomes wider.
The first description of the river dates back to the end of the 16th century. The name comes from the old Russian word meaning property, belongings, knapsack. The Nenets call the river Padyakha - a kotomochnaya river. This testifies to the long-standing use of the river for transport purposes. A path passed along it through the "Stone" (Ural Mountains) to Siberia - Yugra.
Freezing at the end of October, the Sob is freed from ice only at the end of May - beginning of June. In June it is at its most full-flowing. It can also overflow heavily after rains. In its upper and middle reaches, the Sob is a typical mountain river co swift current, rapids, shivers and rifts. One of the most difficult rapids in the village of Kharp with three steps (the second category of difficulty). There are many shoals in the upper reaches.
The Sob River attracts many tourists. The picturesque and fast river is perfect for tourist rafting. The water in the river is clean, clear, but very cold. The current is fast. It is rich in fish, including grayling and taimen.
Grandiose landscapes of the Polar Urals open before tourists. If desired, you can make radial exits to nearby peaks and mountain ranges. Hiking to the waterfall on the North Nyrdvomenshor stream and the Rai-Iz mountain range are popular.
A larch forest grows along the banks of the Sob River, which solves the problems with firewood, often relevant for the latitudes of the Polar Urals. Lots of berries and mushrooms.
After the mouth of the left tributary of the Khanmei River, the Sob falls on West Siberian Plain and becomes flat.
The Sob river valley divides the Polar Urals into northern and southern parts, which differ markedly from each other.
Along the pass in the valley of the Sob River, the Ural Mountains are crossed by the railway line of the Transpolar Highway to Kharp and Labytnangi. Thanks to the presence of the railway, it is easy to get here (including the Moscow-Labytnangi and Vorkuta-Labytnangi trains). There is a station of the same name Sob.
Tourists start rafting from the village of Polyarny (stop 110 km), and end in the village of Kharp. The length of this section of the river is 46 kilometers, it is easy to pass in two days. If you wish, you can continue the rafting to the village of Katrovozh, but it is located away from the railway and you will need to agree on the release.
Going to the Polar Urals, do not forget warm clothes, raincoats, mosquito repellent!
