How to use aquarium water. Instructions for preparing water for the aquarium

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Preparing water for an aquarium is a responsible task that requires certain knowledge and skills, especially for a novice aquarist. The state of physical well-being of plants, fish and other animals living in the water depends on the used water. The properties of water are extremely important for creating the biological balance of a reservoir. To prepare water at home, you need to study the properties of water in order to correctly regulate its parameters. In quality aquatic environment pets will live comfortably.

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How to prepare water?

Freshly collected tap water is unsuitable for animal settlement. Reptiles, fish, amphibians and snails can adapt to it, but on condition that it is infused for several days. Fresh, domestic tap water will kill animals, as chlorine compounds are toxic to the sensitive organisms of small creatures. AT certain days tap water contains different amounts of volatile substances, to check, experts recommend turning on the shower and observing the steam and the presence of the smell of chlorine. If the smell is pungent, do not draw water on this day.

Regardless of the time of year, weather and air temperature, home water will be different. Be observant if you want to settle animals in clean water from impurities. Infused tap water is recommended for many pets and plants, it has acceptable level acidity: pH 7.0. This forms an active reaction, creating an alkaline and acidic water environment. The reaction is determined using litmus paper, which is sold in pet stores. Water should not be infused in plastic containers, it is better to use glass jars with open lid. The main thing is that dust and insects do not get into the prepared water while it is infused.

See how to test water.

To raise the pH to the desired level, you can use baking soda. Peat is recommended to lower the pH. Sometimes, before starting a new aquarium, tree samples are placed in the water to reduce the acidity of the water. The aquarium can be filled not only with tap water, but also with distilled water, which is sold in pharmacies or car dealerships. Small aquariums are filled with it, but experienced breeders warn that such water is poor in the mineral components necessary for animals. Rarely use liquid from another aquarium in which there is a stable biological balance for a normal life.



About the aquarium water temperature

As you know, all fish and not only breed at a certain temperature of the aquatic environment. Warmth imitates the rainy season, climate change, seasons, serves as a signal for finding a pair and spawning. All kinds of fish, snails, amphibians and reptiles live in different temperature water. Also, the inhabitants of home nurseries are divided into two types - cold-loving and heat-loving. Heat-loving - those who live at a temperature not lower than 18-20 degrees Celsius, cold-loving ones are able to live in cool water (14-18 degrees and below). The latter live only in spacious tanks, where there is a slow and cool undercurrent. Heat-loving species in cold water behave sluggishly, motionless, start to get sick.



Starting the preparation of water for the aquarium, consult with experts, or seek help from specialized literature. Required for each pet optimum temperature water, therefore, only compatible animals should be settled in one tank with identical parameters (heat-loving animals are not settled with cold-loving ones, herbivores and predators are kept in separate nurseries, large and small are settled separately). In accordance with all the parameters (permissible temperature threshold, acidity, hardness), the acquired living creatures are populated in the aquarium. You should also take into account the conditions of keeping plants in the water, for them the indicated parameters of the aquatic environment are important. Comfortable neighborhood will provide proper care and living conditions.

See how to prepare water for an aquarium.

How to prepare water with acceptable hardness?

Hardness can be reduced by filtering and steeping. Sometimes distilled, thawed or rain water. Plants such as hornwort and elodea reduce hardness. There is another way - freezing. The collected water is frozen, and then thawed, settled and poured into the tank.

It is better to start the fish in a day or two, until the water acquires the necessary parameters. The temperature of the water in which purchased fish, animals and plants lived should be identical to the aquarium. Again, to check, use a thermometer, litmus paper. Do not neglect the recommendations so that the life of pets is healthy and safe, because if they are kept in a poor-quality aquatic environment, they may suffer.

Aquarium water - preparation, composition, water temperature

Date: 2011-07-23

Parameters of aquarium water for pouring into the aquarium

Aquarium water should be suitable for the life and normal existence of your fish. The water in the aquarium should be of such parameters that are most suitable for the parameters of the water from the reservoirs in which the species of these fish live in nature.

Having been keeping and breeding ornamental fish for many years, reading all kinds of literature on this subject, I came to the sad conclusion that, in essence, aquarism is just a frail, neglected and illiterate bastard of ichthyology.

What are the features of the biological processes taking place in the aquarium? What happens to water? What is really useful and what is harmful for the inhabitants of the indoor reservoir? How to recreate conditions in it as close to natural as possible?

What substances must be dissolved in water to induce aquarium fish to reproduction and get from them a full-fledged offspring? Since such questions are not of national economic importance, not a single scientific laboratory is seriously occupied with them.

Photo water for aquarium

An aquarium is a closed container, the dimensions of which are negligible compared to the dimensions of natural reservoirs. It has no connection with the soil and precipitation. The processes taking place in rivers and lakes often differ significantly from those that take place in an aquarium, differing both in speed and quality. Therefore, the results of research and the conclusions of hydrologists are by no means always applicable in the practice of ornamental fish farming.

Almost every book on aquarism contains a section that should be, but an amateur at the beginning of his knowledge of aquarium intricacies often does not pay enough attention to such information. Later, as he accumulates his own experience, especially unpleasant and unsuccessful, he makes attempts to understand the essence of the description and use the experience of his predecessors to overcome his failures.

I understand that the biography of the habits of aquarium fish, as well as reasoning about water, the authors of the collections often cite from other people's words. At the same time, conjectures, mistakes, and just a sort of flight of fancy migrate from book to book, from author to author, and gullible readers try to embody such recommendations and inventions at home.

I will try to talk about water for an aquarium and water in an aquarium in a popular (if possible) form and without claiming a special scientific depth of research on the issue, so as not to veil its practical side.

How to prepare water for pouring into an aquarium

What do you need to know about it? It fully depends on the goals for which you start an aquarium. If it is just a beautiful or fashionable interior detail for you and you are not going to seriously engage in aquarism, then ordinary water from a city water supply will suit you. And in this case, you only need to know about it that at the water station for disinfection, substances containing chlorine are added to the water, and, as you know, it is the enemy of all living things.

AT different time years and depending on the hydro-epidemiological situation in the area, the concentration of chlorine in the water is changed. Its presence is easily determined by its specific smell.

In houses with old water pipes, the water is “enriched” with rust, which also does not add health to fish and plants. The admixture of iron makes itself felt with a rusty aftertaste and characteristic marks on the surfaces of the toilet bowl, bathroom, sink, etc.

The simplest way to reduce the harm from such impurities is to settling water in an open container for 2-3 days: chlorine disappears, and some of the impurities settle to the bottom. You can boil water, but in practice this recommendation is not feasible.

Judge for yourself: to prepare in this way even 25-30 liters for a water change in a 100-liter aquarium - and that's the problem: how to boil such an amount of water, where to keep it until it cools down and the scale settles? And if you have a 400-500-liter reservoir? It is impossible not to replace part of the water periodically, since no filter is able to remove the end product of organic decomposition from the water - nitrates and replenish the resource of substances dissolved in water that are necessary for fish and plant organisms.

In nature, water purification is busy a certain kind bacteria. They are also in the aquarium, but here in a short time such high concentrations of nitrates are created that microorganisms cannot cope with this task. So you have to adapt to the water that you have in abundance.

Before equipping an aquarium, it is advisable to find out at least an approximate water supply, and then consult a specialist: he will tell you which fish and plants are right for you.

How to get water data? It is possible through a simple analysis, which is available at home - just purchase at a pet store necessary set tests; you can use the services of the same familiar aquarist.

What water should not be added to the aquarium

Artesian, and often well waters are of little use for an aquarium, because they are excessively mineralized (sometimes so much that it is not even recommended to drink such water). But even some fish can live in them, but living plants will have to be abandoned, replacing them in the interior with synthetic analogues or on.

If in everyday life you use water passed through a household filter, and the performance of the latter is such that it will allow you to spend part of the "product" for the needs of the aquarium, then such water, of course, may be suitable. Why "may"? Yes, because it is not the fact of passing water through the filter that is important, but what happens to the water.

Now there are many household filters on the market, but most of them are able to retain only a large mechanical suspension and are completely indifferent to dissolved substances. At the same time, there are devices with membrane purification, which are able to remove all (or almost all) salts dissolved in it from water.

But even such water is of little use for an aquarium. Of course, it is possible to correct the salt composition of water, but this is a rather troublesome task, besides requiring at least minimal knowledge in the field of hydrochemistry and various kinds of reference books with special formulas and tables. Again, a friend who is able to cope with this task can come to the rescue.

How to soften or harden water

You can increase the hardness of water by adding calcium and / or magnesium salts to it (they determine the overall hardness) or simply adding more hard water.

Often in the aquarium literature there are recommendations for increasing the hardness by placing pieces of marble, limestone, shell fragments in the water. Indeed, under certain conditions, the calcium contained in them becomes soluble and increases hardness. But this process is uncontrollable, significantly extended in time, and, moreover, also reversible, i.e. the dissolved calcium settles again, and the periodic one nullifies all efforts to increase hardness.

The situation is more complicated with water softening - a decrease in the concentration of salts dissolved in it. The most common way is to dilute the source water with distilled water. But often the required quantities of distilled water are too large.

Photo water for aquarium

Where can I get it? Ready - in a pharmacy or at battery charging points. If you have ion-exchange columns or osmotic filters with membrane purification, you can try to get soft water on your own, but this is a rather troublesome undertaking that requires special equipment, chemicals and, again, knowledge, and osmotic filters are not affordable for everyone.

Rain and melt water is completely unsuitable. She's definitely soft, but so saturated industrial emissions that introducing it into the aquarium, even in small quantities, can poison your pets to death.

There is a fairly simple way to get soft water: freezing. For this you need frost and a bucket. Tap water is poured into a bucket, taken out into the cold (a balcony is quite suitable in winter) and frozen in such a way that approximately 1/3 - 1/4 of it remains liquid in the center of the bucket (as in an ice vase). This residue is drained, and the ice is melted. Freezing, water seems to be trying to get rid of dissolved salts. They are pushed to the center of the bucket and freeze last. The main thing here is not to miss the moment.

In large cities, there is another source of water suitable for an aquarium: drinking water in plastic bottles. And if economic considerations do not stop you, feel free to use it, unless it belongs to the mineral category (this is indicated on the label).

It is better not to use river, lake and pond water, although it is usually quite suitable in terms of hardness and active reaction (pH). The danger is elsewhere. If there is no fish in that pond, then something is dissolved in the water that will destroy the inhabitants of the aquarium.

And if the fish lives here, then there is definitely a fish infection. The infection could be neutralized by boiling, but we have already discussed the disadvantages of this method. It is also better not to mess with water from peat lakes (bogs) - there is a high risk of killing fish.

I have come across fantastic advice about using water from forest puddles. What kind of water is in such puddles, I can not say. One thing is obvious: it is rainy or melted, that is, soft, but what has penetrated into it from the forest soil and the atmosphere is unknown. Often such water is colored with vegetable decay products. So judge for yourself.

Is hot water suitable? For the most part, yes. You just need to know that special chemical additives can pass through the descaling pipes, which can severely damage the fish. A sign of the presence of these additives is the sudden appearance of color in hot water. It should not be used for some time and after preventive or emergency work.

As much as clean fresh air is pleasant to a person, fresh clean tap water is so detrimental to fish. There are many imported products on sale now, the addition of which to fresh tap water supposedly reduces the risk to zero. I tried - it does not help, they also die. I recognize the benefits only of sodium hyposulfite (those who have been involved in amateur photography know that this is the main component fixer), which instantly binds free chlorine. But the danger is not only chlorine. Water is supplied to the water supply under pressure and therefore is oversaturated with various gases.

This kind of "soda" is very harmful to the gas exchange of the fish organism. There is an assumption that these gases enter the blood in excess, and then, not being in demand, clog small vessels with microscopic bubbles. Sort of like decompression sickness. I do not presume to judge the reliability of such a theory.

The conclusion is obvious: fresh water, before putting fish into it, must be allowed to settle. Usually 1-2 days are enough (the higher the water temperature, the faster the process).

However, this is only the first step. Filled in a clean aquarium with soil, snags, stones, other interior details and with connected equipment, the water should "come to life". What is meant by this?

There is no "aquarium collection" of bacteria in fresh tap water. Rather, they are, but they are still extremely insufficient. Cloudy water occurs after 2-3 days - a consequence mass reproduction microorganisms. And after a few more days, the water regains transparency, and now fish can be launched into the aquarium.

Without going into details, I will say that aquarists call this process the establishment of biological equilibrium.

Photo water for aquarium

When you populated the aquarium and its inhabitants began to saturate the water with waste products, colonies begin to develop intensively in biological filters and soil. beneficial bacteria- consumers of decaying organic matter.

If a lot of fish are introduced into a new aquarium, then an imbalance may occur again and the water will become cloudy again. This means that a colony of bacteria that has not had time to multiply cannot cope with the incoming waste (this should also include food not eaten by fish, which begins to rot and spoil the water).

The water is saturated with poisonous ammonia and nitrites. Fish different types they do not have the same resistance to these poisons, but in general they lose their appetite, their breathing quickens, and if measures are not taken, the death of the weakest individuals is possible. Young fish die the fastest in this situation.

If you find yourself in such a situation, a quick multiple replacement of part of the water with fresh water (maybe not settled - it will not be worse) and the addition of special aquarium preparations that bind ammonia, which at first it is advisable to have on hand just in case, can save the situation.

At the initial stage, try not to overfeed the fish: there is less harm from starvation than from spoiled water. And do not rush to buy a lot of fish you like: walking around the Bird Market, keep your hands in your pockets, otherwise there will be an extra bag of fish in them.

Nitrates (salts of nitric acid) are not as toxic as ammonia and nitrites, but in high concentrations they inhibit the growth of fish and plants, promote the growth of algae - threadworm and the exceptionally resistant freeloader from Southeast Asia "black beard".

To avoid the accumulation of nitrates, you can systematically replace part of the water with fresh water. In an aquarium with a well-established biological balance, with a weekly replacement of 1/4 -1/3 parts, tap water can not be defended, since the disturbed balance is quickly restored. Proven in practice. Of course, it would be better to do the substitution more often and little by little, but it is very troublesome.

But still. How much and how often should the water be changed? This will tell the aquarium nitrate test very clearly. If you don't have time to delve into such details, use the widely used recommendation: 1/4 of the volume once a week.

A few words about the so-called "old water". This term refers to a long (months) aquarium water that has not been changed. She is credited with beneficent healing properties. But in fact it is a waste concentrate, which significantly slows down the development of any biological life forms.

In the aquarium literature, there is sometimes a reasoned argument that the aquarium flourishes for about six months, and then gradually begins to die. The water turns yellow to an amber hue, the plants wither, stop growing and gradually die, the fish become lethargic, their color fades, they stop multiplying, wither and also die out. Supporters of this theory convince readers of the inevitability of such an outcome.

Photo water for aquarium

I do not support this opinion. An aquarium dies if it is not taken care of. From my own experience, I have found that proper care, leading role in which fresh, nitrate-free water plays, there is no inevitable fatal ending.

Why does the water in the aquarium spoil?

And now I will give two "regular" emergencies that cause damage to the water in the aquarium.

Overfeeding. Occurs when there is no person responsible for feeding the fish in the house; when, in your absence, feeding is entrusted to an uninformed person; when your guests, out of kindness, feed the fish something "delicious" with holiday table; when the fish do not eat the offered food and it begins to rot: when... I think you yourself can continue this mournful list.

In the water, the oxygen content drops sharply, which is spent on the oxidation of organic matter, the concentration of toxic products of protein decay increases, the water becomes noticeably cloudy, and it develops a putrid odor.

It is necessary to urgently clean the soil with the help of a filter from decaying residues and replace part of the water with fresh water. If the process has gone far, you need to repeat the substitution after a short period of time, maybe more than once.

The criterion is the disappearance of the smell. It is desirable to place activated carbon in the filter to absorb dissolved harmful substances, as well as provide round-the-clock aeration. You should not only completely replace the water and rinse the soil with tap water, as this will destroy not only decay products, but also beneficial bacteria-utilizers, and fish, as you already know, cannot be placed in fresh water.

If, nevertheless, this extreme measure is necessary, the fish should be moved to another inhabited aquarium. It is also useful to take part of the water from it for a washed emergency aquarium - this will speed up the restoration of biological balance. And if, unfortunately, you don’t have a second aquarium, well, take a chance - put it in fresh water, but at least dilute it with boiled water if possible or mix cold water with water from a hot water main.

A similar situation can arise if a large fish died and began to decompose in the aquarium. At the same time, small fish die and, being unnoticed somewhere in the corner, often simply "dissolve" in the aquarium water without causing any noticeable harm.

Filter stop for more than 2-3 hours. I remember such a case: a familiar novice aquarist complained about the constantly muddy water and the frequent death of fish. During the conversation, it turned out by chance that, in order to save electricity, he turned off the pump in the filter at night, and turned it on again in the morning!

Let's take a broad look at what's going on. When the pump stops (power outage, breakdown of the mechanism, your forgetfulness, etc.), water stops flowing into the filter tank, and with it oxygen. As a result, the waste accumulated here begins to rot, intensively releasing ammonia and hydrogen sulfide.

Beneficial bacteria in an oxygen-free environment quickly die and cannot save the day. If after a few hours the filter is started again, all accumulated poisons will be thrown into the aquarium water. Poisoning is inevitable.

Large strong fish still have some chance to survive (the severity of poisoning depends on the degree of clogging of the filter), but there are practically no prospects for juveniles. Hence the measure of protection: before connecting a temporarily inactive filter, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the sponges and other fillers.

That, perhaps, is all that should be remembered at first about the water for the aquarium and in the aquarium. As for the preparation of water for fish spawning at home and the maintenance of the growing fish generation, this is a special and rather capacious topic.

I.VANYUSHIN

Could you imagine that the health of the aquarium and the fish depends on the quality of the water? She has many parameters after which a sharp change kills fish and plants. Beginners do not pay any attention to the composition of the water and its temperature until the fish begin to float up belly up.

It's rare for a newbie to have a much-needed drip test handy. But, even the presence of a water test does not imply its regular use by beginners, which leads to negative manifestations in the aquarium. Most often, a water problem leads to the following manifestations and issues:

  • Why did the water turn white

The problems are exacerbated by the fact that many beginners do not know what water to fill in the aquarium or how to defend it correctly. Even fewer people know what temperature the aquarium water should be for those fish that are kept. Neglect of these points leads to the rapid death of the inhabitants of the aquarium.

The aquarium filter affects the properties of the water. The interconnections between them are so strong that it is meaningless to study one in isolation from the other. The first thing that is encountered in the absence of a filter or its malfunction is yellowing of the water and a bad smell from the aquarium.

Aquarium water has a number of parameters whose values ​​are critical for fish and plants:

  • Acidity
  • Rigidity
  • Temperature
  • Nitrite, nitrate, ammonia and hydrogen sulfide levels

The values ​​of these parameters depend on how well you maintain the aquarium and the properties of the filled water. The need for any action on the aquarium water is determined by the parameters that need to be obtained and the values ​​that are available. In other words, the requirements of the fish to the pH level determines the need to increase or decrease it. As well as the current value of this parameter.

Tap water may be hard, but after boiling it will become soft due to the precipitation of calcium and magnesium. Didn't you know? Water may be alkaline, but by adding crumbs of peat, you acidify it by changing the pH level. The water may be soft, but add dolomite crumbs and the hardness of the water will increase.

Here you will find articles that answer popular questions about aquarium water problems and how to solve them.

Preparing water for an aquarium is a very responsible business. It is on its quality that the life and health of all inhabitants will depend: from algae to fish and animals. There are a lot of parameters that need to be taken into account when preparing - composition, temperature, hardness and individual characteristics pet living in it. However, even a beginner can properly prepare water for an aquarium.


Aquarium water can be easily prepared at home

Basic conditions

Preparing water for an aquarium at home is a troublesome business, because a lot depends on how well the new habitat suits the pets. You need to pay attention to the tips and choose best option , since the composition of the liquid varies from one locality to another and there are no uniform recommendations suitable for everyone at once.

The liquid just collected from the tap is unsuitable for the inhabitants of the aquarium. This is due to the fact that it contains chlorine compounds, which are detrimental to sensitive organisms of fish and amphibians, and it also contains some other dangerous impurities. They are of several types:

  • hard;
  • gaseous;
  • liquid.

The most common and easiest way to get rid of them is settling, but it is worth considering that this may not always help. In addition, it is impossible to quickly prepare water for an aquarium in this way. She needs to stand for at least 2 days (and better week or two) in an unclosed container. Solid impurities will fall out after settling with sediment (it cannot be drained into the aquarium), gaseous impurities will evaporate. With liquids, everything is more difficult, because they cannot be removed so easily, but they are also less common.

It is advised to choose the right day to collect water, because every day its composition changes slightly. It is recommended to first turn on the shower and watch the steam, pay attention to the smell: if it is sharp and gives off bleach, then it is better to postpone this matter until tomorrow. If it is not expressed, then you need to type required amount cold water and put it to settle.

It is advisable to use not plastic containers, but open glass jars. Some breeders, when buying a new aquarium, defend the water directly in it, while the first one needs to be drained after a couple of days, without launching fish into it. At the same time, this way you can check if their new house is leaking.

Nowadays, there are air conditioners that help to quickly prepare the water for the aquarium. They must be used according to the instructions, they are much more reliable, because they cope with liquid impurities too.

Good water has a pH level of 7. This level is suitable for most aquarium animals. A litmus test, which is sold at a pharmacy or pet store, will help to determine it more accurately.

Baking soda can be used to raise the pH, and peat can be used to lower the pH. Sometimes small driftwood is placed in aquariums, which can reduce the acidity, but the choice of wood must be approached with care. For example, oak and trees with a high resin content should not be used.

Instead of tap water, you can use distilled water, but it is poor in minerals and other components necessary for the normal life of pets, so you have to add special vitamins there. They can also be purchased at the pet store.


You can use distilled water for the aquarium, however you will need to add minerals

Suitable Temperature

Temperature affects the reproduction of most types of aquarium inhabitants. Warm water simulates the rainy season and spawning, which encourages the fish to look for a pair. In addition, different types of fish live in different temperatures.

Animals are divided into heat-loving and cold-loving. For heat-loving, the temperature should be 18-20 degrees Celsius, in colder water they become lethargic, lose their appetite and start to get sick. For cold-loving, temperatures from 14 degrees are suitable, some species are comfortable even in cooler water. They can only live in large tanks where there is an undercurrent.

By itself, it is impossible to plant heat-loving and cold-loving types of fish in one aquarium because both will be uncomfortable. In addition, there are many other parameters by which you need to select neighbors. The same applies to algae: different species also need different conditions so please check carefully before buying.

How to normalize stiffness

There are several ways in which you can increase or decrease the hardness of water. . For reduction apply:

  • filtration;
  • settling (at least 2 days);
  • adding melted, rain or distilled;
  • planting hornwort and elodea;
  • freezing.

You can increase or decrease the hardness of the water in the aquarium different ways

To freeze water, you need to freeze it to the state of ice, then let it thaw, stand for a couple of days and pour it into the tank. All of these methods are quite effective. . Increase hardness:

  • rapana;
  • limestone;
  • boiled coral crumb.

Even in some specialized stores you can buy air conditioners that will quickly prepare water for aquarium fish. Usually it takes up to one hour, if there is aeration, then things go faster.

Breeding aquarium fish is one of the most common hobbies around the world. No wonder, because the aquarium increases the humidity in the room, which is very important in modern large cities, and the fish allow you to calm down and relax after a hard day's work. But in order to avoid unpleasant consequences, every novice amateur should know what kind of water to fill in the aquarium.

Why Aquarium Water Treatment Is Important

Any water has certain characteristics: hardness, the presence of impurities and microorganisms. Some types of fish are able to adapt to almost any - in this case, it makes no difference what kind of water to fill in the aquarium. But still, most breeds have certain preferences.

Most of the people reading this article live in cities. Getting river or well water here is very problematic, and filling an aquarium with purified bottled water is troublesome and expensive. Therefore, there is only one way out - to use cold tap water. And here there are problems.

To purify water from dangerous microorganisms, it is chlorinated. And chlorine is a real poison. True, it is added to water in a very small amount. The usual concentration of chlorine is 0.3 milligrams per litre. Even for humans, this is quite harmful, so it is recommended to boil water. And for fish, even very unpretentious, the concentration of 0.25 milligrams per liter is fatal. The chlorine will damage their gills and they will die a slow, painful death. Therefore, the question of what kind of water to fill in an aquarium for fish is not at all idle - it needs to be dealt with first of all.

Filling the aquarium for the first time

If you have just purchased an aquarium and have not yet launched fish into it, have not planted algae, but are only going to fill it for the first time, study this item especially carefully.

To begin with, the aquarium should simply be rinsed from the inside - to get rid of dust and any possible contaminants. Use detergents no need - a regular clean and damp sponge will do. After that, you can lay a specially prepared soil. And after that - feel free to pour water, directly from the tap. Then you need to leave it for a few days to evaporate the chlorine. Fortunately, it quickly evaporates from water at room temperature.

The water will probably begin to "bloom" and become cloudy. Do not worry, this is quite natural - the microorganisms that have entered the aquarium multiply rapidly, but will soon die without a trace. Now you can plant algae and launch the first fish.

Simple suck

Another question is what water to fill in the aquarium when the fish are already living there. After all, chlorine still poses a serious threat to the inhabitants.

In this case, the usual settling will do. Take a suitable container with an enamel coating - its surface should be as large as possible so that the chlorine evaporates faster. Therefore, five-liter bottles will not work - water will get rid of harmful substances for at least several weeks. Of course, the ideal option is a metal basin. But it takes up a lot of space, it is inconvenient to work with it, and such a container holds relatively little water. Because of this, experienced breeders use conventional buckets.

After collecting water, just leave the bucket in a place where it will not interfere with anyone. The ideal option is near the radiator so that the chlorine evaporates faster. In this case, before pouring water into the aquarium, cool it to room temperature.

Water for pregnant females and fry

Another important question, tormenting many beginners: "What water can be poured into an aquarium where pregnant females and young animals will live?" It's not as easy as it might seem. Ordinary water after sludge will not work - it does not contain the usual and vital microorganisms.

Therefore, the best solution is to use the already available water from the aquarium. Just fill a small spawning tank from the main one, and restore the loss of water by pouring in fresh water that has settled in buckets.

This will allow you to immediately create a "live" atmosphere in the aquarium - the fish in it will be much more comfortable than in a fresh one.

We solve the problem of rigidity

Often, when people are interested in what kind of water should be poured into an aquarium, they mean hardness. Indeed, this parameter seriously affects the fish, their health and lifespan. Too much soft water leads to a deficiency of salts - the fish grow slowly, females often die after childbirth. And the increased content of calcium and magnesium salts often causes numerous diseases, and the percentage of successfully hatched eggs is sharply reduced. How to be in such a situation?

Fortunately, there is a solution. If the tap water is too soft, dissolve a small amount of school chalk in each bucket. This is a natural limestone that is not dangerous and maintains water hardness at the proper level.

You can also put some beautiful shells on the bottom of the aquarium - only real ones, not plastic or ceramic ones. Experienced aquarists put them not at all because of their beauty - the limestone is gradually washed out of them, increasing their rigidity. There are still special additives on sale, but you can not always find them. As you can see, the question of what water should be poured into the aquarium if too hard flows from the tap is quite easily solved.

With increased rigidity, it is more difficult to deal with. You can boil it, but this is a rather complicated process, especially if the volume of the aquarium is not 50-60 liters, but several hundred. But if you plant hornwort, elodea and valissneria in your aquarium, then the problem will be partially solved. The fact is that these algae actively draw salts out of the water, depositing them on their leaves.

How much water to change at a time

Another important nuance. Some beginners think that cleaning the aquarium completely removes the water and fills it up again. This is a huge mistake. Several of these replacements, the fish will still survive, but will often get sick. And then they can start dying en masse. A complete water change is a huge stress. This should be remembered by every novice aquarist who wants his farm to please the eyes of friends and cause envy among ill-wishers.

In fact, no more than 20% of water is removed during weekly cleaning. Using a hose with a metal nozzle, carefully walk along the bottom of the aquarium. Experienced aquarists even deliberately set it at an angle so that half-eaten food and fish waste accumulate in one corner. Pull in the water along with the litter (be careful not to accidentally pull in a gaping fish) to get a bucket or two. You should just pour it out or use it for watering flowers - the microorganisms and trace elements contained in this water will only benefit green pets. Well, fill the aquarium with fresh water, purified from chlorine by settling.

Taking care of a Dutch-type aquarium

Okay, we figured out what kind of water the fish need to fill in the aquarium. But what kind of water do algae need? The question is not funny at all, but very serious. The fact is that Dutch-type aquariums are quite common today - here the main inhabitants are algae, not fish. The latter either play a decorative function or are absent altogether.

Plants need carbon dioxide, which they use during photosynthesis. If there are no fish, there is no gas. How to be? The problem is solved quite easily. Once a week, pour a couple of glasses of sparkling water into the aquarium. Of course, not mineral and especially not sweet. Plain water with bubbles. It contains a large amount of carbon dioxide, which will provide plants with a comfortable existence and rapid growth.

Conclusion

We tried as much as possible to figure out what kind of water to fill in the aquarium. Now you know not only how to prepare, but also figured out the Dutch aquariums and learned a little about cleaning. Surely this information will allow you to create a truly luxurious aquarium and keep it in perfect order.

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