The main source of inspiration for Jeanne Lanvin. What Made Jeanne Lanvin Great

Pregnancy and children 19.06.2020

Pregnancy and children

LANVIN ZHANNA

(born in 1867 - died in 1946)

Jeanne Lanvin, who was affectionately called the "mother of fashion", was the first woman designer, one of the brightest female figures in the fashion world of the 1920s. Her exceptional talent and hard work allowed her, a girl from a poor family, to reach unimaginable heights, to create a whole world of elegance and grace, which has become a symbol of luxury and refined taste.

Jeanne Lanvin was born on January 1, 1867 in Paris into a family of modest means. About 15 years before her birth, her grandfather, a simple employee of the printing house, rendered a great service to Victor Hugo: he helped the writer escape from the police, providing him with a passport and clothes. Hugo remembered this all his life and many years later helped Jeanne's father get a job to support his family. The father earned enough money to feed three, but the trouble was that ten years after the birth of the first child in the family there were already 11 children of the same age. Jeanne, as the eldest, had to early years help mother with housework and babysit younger siblings. Therefore, and also because the Lanvin family quickly became impoverished, the girl never went to school.

At the age of 13, Jeanne had to go to work. First, she got a job as a housekeeper for one of the milliners " middle class» in the Saint-Honoré area. She did not only housework, quite often she had to be a messenger, delivering orders throughout the city. In order to somehow save pocket money, little Jeanne did not use public transport. Running after the buses with huge hatboxes in her hands, she dreamed of the time when she could earn a golden louis. The studio knew about this and jokingly called the girl "little omnibus." Having run over the whole day, Jeanne sat quietly in the evening with her dolls and began to dress them up according to the latest fashion - she could repeat the models she saw in the smallest detail.

In 1883, when Jeanne was 16 years old, she moved to another studio, to Madame Felix, where she was taken as an apprentice milliner. Very quickly she became a favorite student, and then the first craftswoman for finishing hats. Two years later, Lanvin decided to go on her own. Taking a small loan, she opened her own workshop for the manufacture of women's hats. The business developed slowly, but the girl managed to withstand serious competition, and in 1889 her workshop, transformed into a tailoring studio, moved to Boissy-d'Angla street. Now here, in house number 16, the atelier began to occupy the entire attic. Although later there will be more moves - to a two-room apartment on Rue Saint-Honoré, and then to Rue Maturin, it was 1889 that began to be considered the date of foundation of the Lanvin Fashion House.

Gradually, Lanvin's fashion business gained momentum. At first, Jeanne just needed money - younger brothers and sisters were growing up in the family, and she considered it her duty to help her father in earning money for their maintenance. However, her intricate hats soon became very popular among fashionistas in Paris. Jeanne has her own regular clients, most of whom belonged to high society.

Sometimes an aspiring fashion designer walked the streets of Paris, watching respectable ladies who could become her clients. She learned from them secular manners in order to be able to present herself correctly when working with them. Once, during such a walk, Jeanne met a young man, Count Emilio di Pietro. This Italian, a handsome man who was fond of horse racing and betting, was five years younger than Jeanne - he had just turned 23. Soon, Pietro, fascinated by the young woman, proposed to her. Jeanne, who had long felt the need to become a mother, decided to accept this offer and marry, although she did not feel love for the count. In 1895 they got married, and two years later, in August 1897, baby Marguerite (Margerit) was born. This marriage lasted only eight years - in 1903, Jeanne Lanvin divorced Emilio, and four years later she remarried. It was also a marriage of convenience, and for reasons of reputation, her chosen one was Xavier Melet, a former journalist, and now a diplomat, the French consul in Manchester. However, this man did not take too much place in the life of the already famous Madame Lanvin. When Mele retired, he settled in one of his wife's country houses and completely stopped delving into Jeanne's affairs.

Jeanne's only true love was her daughter Margarita, or Ririt, as she herself called the baby. Ririt became a guiding star for Lanvin, and it was from the moment of her birth that Jeanne's career as a fashion designer began. Lanvin dedicated almost all of her collections to her daughter. “Every client who chooses dresses from Lanvin receives a piece of love from mother and daughter,” wrote Jérôme Picon, author of a biography of Jeanne Lanvin. This love has become a symbol of Jeanne Lanvin's entire enterprise. In 1922, the artist Paul Iribe drew some playful drawings of Jeanne and her daughter in satin dresses and the famous Lanvin hats. One of them - "mother and daughter in the union of love and tenderness" - became the emblem of the House of Models.

Marguerite was the main muse for Jeanne until she married the grandson of the minister Clemenceau, becoming Madame Rene Jacquemer. By her second marriage, Ririt was able to realize the most ambitious plans of her mother. She became Marie-Blanche, Comtesse de Polignac, and began to play one of the leading roles in the life of Parisian society.

After the birth of Ririt, Jeanne changes the direction of her activities. She leaves her hats and devotes all her creativity only daughter. Before her, children's dresses were only a reduced copy of an adult wardrobe. Convinced that children's clothes should not be so strict, Madame Lanvin creates lovely outfits for Marguerite. It was they who entered her first collection of children's clothing, which became the basis of the Lanvin Fashion House. Ririt, a pretty blond girl, in dresses sewn by Jeanne, was charming. The parents of the girlfriends of the little fashionista were the first clients of this new direction of activity of the House of Lanvin. Gradually, the fame of the House grows, and soon Jeanne is bombarded with orders. A little later, Lanvin introduced a new line - models for women of all ages. Now the mothers of her little clients have also begun to dress up.

A distinctive feature of the Lanvin style was a new method of drapery for the first quarter of the 20th century, which made it possible to create very feminine dresses. She brought into fashion soft folds, nirvur, copied from antique outfits. Her dresses of soft flowing fabrics, ankle-length, were not too sexy, but feminine and romantic. They went down in fashion history as "stylish dresses" from Lanvin. The second main feature of the style was exquisite embroidery and appliqué. As a decoration, Lanvin used not only openwork beadwork and a variety of embroidery, but also a mosaic of pieces of glass, mirrors and metal.

Madame Lanvin drew her diverse ideas from her personal library, which included priceless books on art, fashion, the history of costume, a collection of illustrations, and even samples of luxurious fabrics that make up her “material library”. Jeanne personally collected these samples, bringing them from her travels around different countries, where she traveled from time to time with her second diplomat husband. On one of these trips to Italy, she was struck by an unusual shade of blue in a painting by Fra Angelico. This unique blue-blue color of a shade of lavender would later be made by Lanvin the crown color of his Model House.

With the outbreak of the First World War, Jeanne did not stop the activities of her House of Models. The front was far away, and Parisians always wanted to dress beautifully. Moreover, Jeanne opened branches of the House in Cannes, Deauville and Biarritz, and in 1918 organized shows of her models abroad - in England, Spain, Italy, Argentina and Brazil. By the mid-1920s, Jeanne Lanvin became one of the recognized masters in the world of haute couture. Wearing Lanvin outfits was considered a sign of good taste and a symbol of belonging to high society. All the royal houses of Europe and famous actresses 1920s dressed at Lanvin. An important role in advertising dresses from Lanvin was played by the daughter of Jeanne, by that time the already famous and influential Comtesse de Polignac, who created clientele for her mother around the world.

The business of Lanvin, this remarkable woman fashion designer, flourished: from 1918 to 1939, over 16 thousand models were presented under the Lanvin brand. More than a thousand people worked at her House of Models, which by that time already consisted of 25 ateliers located on Faubourg Saint-Honore. Jeanne launched a sports and men's line and a haute couture line. House Lanvin becomes the first House where the whole family could dress up. Since 1915, Jeanne herself has taken part in all international exhibitions, and in 1925 she became the organizer of fashion shows at the World Exhibition in Paris. In 1926, her merits were appreciated - Madame Lanvin was awarded the Order of the Legion of Honor. Since 1936, she has received the title of French Fashion Ambassador.

In 1923, Jeanne Lanvin took another step in her couturier career and began producing perfumes. In the suburbs of Paris, she bought a dye factory, which she converted into a perfume factory. Her first fragrance, Irise, was a mixture of iris and violet. Then, in 1925, the Mon Peche perfume was created, released in America under the name My sin, and in Spain under the name Geranium. Two years later, the Aprege fragrance dedicated to Margarita appeared, which became one of the new pages in the history of mother's love for her daughter. The perfume bottle, shaped like a glass sphere, was adorned with a handmade engraving depicting the emblem of the House - a mother leaning over her daughter.

Jeanne Lanvin continued to work during the Second World War, proclaiming "beauty in spite of everything." True, her style became simpler, but that made it no less attractive.

Lanvin died in July 1946 at the age of 79. After her death, the House of Models passed to her daughter. Margherita at first tried to delve into the affairs of the company, but, completely unaware of such a business, in 1950 she handed over the leadership of the House to the Spaniard Antonio Canovas del Castillo, who was replaced in 1963 by Jules Francois Crahe. However, neither they nor subsequent stylists were able to raise the House. And only at the beginning of the new millennium, House Lanvin seemed to wake up from eternal sleep and came to life. The designer Alber Elbaz brought a new stream, who transformed the classic “Lanvinian” image of a woman, “without changing anything radically in it, but simply expanding the boundaries of understanding femininity and the limits of grace.” Today, the Lanvin Fashion House is successfully operating, and the company's annual turnover, which has reached 1.5 billion francs, is growing. The century-old fashion house today continues to create clothes and perfumes that "have their own character and at the same time emphasize the individuality of the wearer."

This text is an introductory piece.

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She was called a rival of Coco Chanel, although the creative biography of Jeanne Lanvin began much earlier (she is older than the great Chanel). The source of inspiration for the fashion designer was her daughter Marie-Blanche, it was not for nothing that the lady leading the baby by the hand flaunted on the brand's logo.

Biography of Jeanne Lanvin

Outfits for dolls and little sisters

Jeanne-Marie Lanvin (who preferred to be called simply Jeanne) was born on January 1, 1867. There were 10 daughters and sons in the family, and the Parisian parents were very poor. Zhanna from an early age began to sew outfits for her dolls, and then for her younger sisters. At the age of 13, she was already working. As an apprentice in a hat workshop, the girl spent all day delivering hats to customers, dragging huge boxes around Paris.

Soon she managed to get a job as a junior seamstress to the famous milliner Madame Felix. There she learned the basics of craftsmanship. The next job - at the tailor Talbot - opens up new perspectives for the student. The biography of Jeanne Lanvin continued in Spain, in Barcelona she again studied diligently - from local mistresses.

own business

Returning to her homeland, the girl opened a small hat workshop. She still helped her parents, so she worked tirelessly. Exquisite taste helped Jeanne very soon acquire a noble clientele. By the way, the Frenchwoman also drew inspiration from the Russian folk costume.

The hatter herself became a member of the high society (just like Coco Chanel at the beginning of her career). There she met an aristocrat and married him. The marriage was short-lived, but Jeanne had a daughter, Margaret, whom everyone called Marie-Blanche.

From that moment on, a very successful time began in the biography of Jeanne Lanvin. Starting to dress her daughter, she became famous as a skilled designer of children's clothes. Parisians ordered dresses for their daughters from her, and five years later the couturier released her debut collection of dresses for babies.

New Horizons

At the turn of the century, Lanvin opened a boutique, since then the Lanvin brand has become engaged in the production of women's outfits. The artist Paul Irib sketched a logo for the brand: a beauty is holding her little daughter by the hands.

Jeanne began to travel, new ideas were born on trips. Thus, the Blue Lanvin collection is inspired by the images of the Italian painter Fra Angelico. Lanvin collected fabric samples and experimented with the silhouette. At first, she worked on soft, romantic, flowing dresses in the antique spirit, and then turned to oriental motifs.

Gold embroidery, wide skirts, powerful frills - all this Jeanne brought into fashion during the First World War. And dressing the writer Edmond Rostand, she became a trendsetter in men's fashion. Gradually, the brand developed, underwear, fur products and luxurious interior items appeared in the assortment.

Lover of soft colors

Lanvin paid a lot of attention to color, “inventing” shades and naming them in her own way (“Lanvin blue”, “Polignac pink”, “Velasquez green”). In 1923, she even opened her own dye house in Nanterre. Despite this, the fashion designer also appreciated black, calling it "ultimate chic", she believed that elegant black things must be present in the wardrobe.

Soon the first couturier perfumes appeared (by that time, Lanvin had long been a member of the High Fashion Syndicate and could bear this title). The same logo with a lady and a girl flaunted on the bottle of Lanven Aprege perfume.

Until now, My Sin perfume is considered one of the most unique fragrances. Jeanne also became famous as a talented costume designer - she created costumes for a dozen famous performances.

Romantic dresses were replaced by wide ladies' trousers, and later strictness and conciseness, successfully combined with femininity, appeared in Laven's models (during the Second World War, dressing up magnificently was considered bad form).

Personal life of Jeanne Lanvin

Two failed marriages

Jeanne's first marriage was not very happy - she married the Italian Count Emilio di Pietro on February 20, 1896, but they divorced in 1903. Then the couple had a daughter, Margarita.

The personal life of Jeanne Lanvin changed four years later - her chosen one, Xavier Mele, was a journalist, she traveled the world with him. He worked for the conservative publication Le Temps, and then received the post of consul in Manchester, England. It destroyed the family.

Jeanne died at the age of 79 - in 1946. The post of head of the Fashion House was taken by the couturier's daughter, married Countess Polignac. She was "at the helm" until her death in 1958. Marie Blanche did not have children, and the family business ended up in the hands of her cousin Yves Lanvin. The brand went through difficult times for a long time, but with the arrival of Alber Elbaz in the early 2000s, everything improved.

Jeanne Marie Lanvin (French Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, born January 1, 1867 in Paris, France) - French artist.

Biography and career

Born in Paris in 1867 in a poor respectable family. Since childhood, Zhanna was very fond of dressing up dolls, and she did it better than all her peers. The dresses that she sewed herself were exact copies of real women's outfits. Soon her mother allowed her to sew clothes for her younger sisters and brothers.

When Jeanne was 13 years old, she went to work in a hat shop. to help the family. The girl had to deliver purchases, she had to walk around the city from morning to evening with huge boxes. Two years later, Jeanne got into the prestigious studio of Madame Felix. It was a great success: she became a junior seamstress. After some time, she again changes jobs and ends up in Talbot's studio. There, Zhanna demonstrated her extremely refined taste, thanks to which the management drew attention to her. A talented girl is sent to Spain to study the art of sewing.

How surprised all the friends and acquaintances were when 23-year-old Lanvin suddenly opened her hat shop on Rue Faubourg-Saint-Honore! The girl again wanted to help her family, which was very poor and very large - in addition to Jeanne, there were nine more children. I had to work hard, day and night. Without expecting it, Lanvin became famous throughout Paris. Her hats were extraordinarily beautiful, and noble ladies lined up behind them. Soon Jeanne made acquaintances in high society.

In 1896, thanks to her connections, a girl from a poor family marries an Italian aristocrat, Count Henri-Jean Emilio di Pietro. The marriage was short-lived: after 7 years, the couple divorced, and Jeanne was left alone with her little daughter Marie Blanche Margaret. Lanvin decided to devote herself to raising the girl.

As in early childhood, Jeanne began to invent and sew beautiful clothes for her daughter. They were very elegant, original, comfortable and practical things. They attracted the attention of many wealthy Parisians, who began to order copies of these outfits from Jeanne for their daughters. 5 years passed, and Jeanne presented her first children's clothing collection, and then the first Lanvin appeared in Paris. Soon the fashion designer took up the creation of women's clothing.

In 1907 Jeanne marries again. Her new spouse, journalist Xavier Mele, teaches her to travel. They give the development and improvement of Lanvin's style new round. She brought many new ideas and samples of materials from her trips, creating a whole “library of fabrics” at home. As a result, the Blue Lanvin and Green Velázquez collections were born. The creation of the first Jeanne was inspired by the work of the Italian artist Fra Angelico.

In 1909, Jeanne Lanvin joined (Syndicat de la Couture) and received official status. Lanvin wanted to make beautiful clothes for the whole family. At that time, Jeanne's dresses became very popular. Made from soft flowing fabrics in pastel colors, they existed as if out of fashion, reminiscent of antique robes.

Xavier Mele receives the post of consul in the city of Manchester, leaves his family and leaves for England. Jeanne Lanvin again switches to creativity and introduces new elements into her collections, while she manages to stay true to her style. So oriental motifs came to her clothes. During the First World War, beautiful dresses appeared, decorated with gold embroidery, with wide frills. They were called "military". Zhanna was the first to introduce practical and comfortable shirt dresses into fashion, and also began to use the “Russian style” and fur trim and embroidery in the styles of dresses.

By 1920, Lanvin's "fashion empire" included stores selling children's and women's, as well as menswear . By the way, Jeanne Lanvin created her first men's suit especially for the famous playwright Edmond Rostand. Since then, Lanvin menswear has been the benchmark for classic fashion. In addition, furs, lingerie and interior items appeared in the assortment of the brand.

In 1923 there was a has its own paint shop. In 1924, the company takes on the creation of perfume. This is how Lanvin Parfums SA was born, which launched the fragrance Lanvin Arpege. He became a symbol of Jeanne's maternal love for her daughter. By the way, at the same time, a new emblem of Lanvin appeared: a logo appeared on the bottle of perfume - a lady leads a girl by the hand. It was a "portrait" of Jeanne herself with her daughter Margaret, created by the famous artist Paul Irib. A little later, Lanvin releases My Sin perfume based on valerian. To this day, it ranks among the most unique scents ever created by man.

In the 1920s, the House of Lanvin was famous for long romantic dresses with puffy skirts, and in the 1930s for silk suits with wide skirts in the style of Marlene Dietrich. In the mid-1920s, Jeanne Lanvin became chairman of the Organizing Committee of the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts. Then she headed the directorate of exhibitions in Brussels (in 1931), in New York and San Francisco (in 1939).

With the onset of World War II, the House of Lanvin changed its style again. Now the images were imbued with conciseness and rigor, and at the same time they still contained tenderness and femininity.

period of decline

Jeanne Lanvin died in Paris in 1946 at the age of 79.. Her daughter, the Countess of Polignac, continued her mother's work. She was the director of the firm until 1958, until her very of death. Marie Blanche had no children, and her cousin Yves Lanvin took over the leadership. It was then that the gradual extinction of the known began.

In March 1989, the British Bank Midland bought the entire package of assets from the Lanvin family, and in February 1990 he got rid of the loss-making enterprise and resold it to the French holding Orcofi, owned by the Vuitton family.

In 1994, 50% of Lanvin's shares were transferred to the cosmetics company L'Oreal, and in 1996 the rest of the assets were transferred to it. It was at this time that the leaders of Lanvin begin to replace each other frequently. The brand is frantically looking for a way out of a protracted crisis.

In August 2001, Taiwanese media tycoon Show-Lan Wong, head of Harmonie S.A., a group of investors, became a director of Lanvin. Israeli designer Alber Elbaz became the artistic director of all departments of the company. In 2006, he creates a new collection, which is dominated by light blue forget-me-not colors. These are Jeanne Lanvin's favorite shades. Under the leadership of Elbaz, the House of Lanvin began to regain its former reputation.

May 2009 the brand suddenly attracted the attention of the press: first lady of the United States, appeared at a charity reception in Lanvin suede. And on December 4 of the same year, a Lanvin boutique was opened in Ball Harbor, Florida.

Awards and achievements

Jeanne Lanvin is a Chevalier and Officer of the Legion of Honor.

Today, Lanvin has boutiques in Ball Harbor, Paris, Osaka, London, Los Angeles, Casablanca, Moscow, Yekaterinburg, Samara, Seoul, Geneva, Tokyo, Hong Kong and Antwerp.

Jeanne Lanvin has always loved to dress well and to dress her children. In 1889, she saves enough money to buy a shop on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, where she sells clothes for women. In her free time, she sews such beautiful outfits for her little daughter that many people, paying attention to them, begin to order copies from Jeanne for their children. All this gave Jeanne the idea of creating a separate line for children, which she did in 1908, becoming a kind of founder of a new children's fashion. Before her, children's clothing was sewn according to the prototype of an adult, Zhanna develops special patterns, according to which she makes outfits for babies.

In 1909, the fashionista begins to take orders for tailoring not only for children, but also for their mothers, including for the most famous women Europe, who are clients of Jeanne's boutique. This circumstance allows her to join the High Fashion Syndicate, which gives her the official status of a couturier and allows her to open her own Fashion House. Later, Lanvin has its own brand name, designed by the famous art deco artist Paul Iribe, which is a silhouette of a lady leading a girl by the hand.

In 1913, flying dresses from Lanvin win the hearts of all the very first fashionistas in Europe and bring their creator a huge success: their ankle length and original design allowed women to combine outfits with any accessories. Jeanne's clothes, with her characteristic floral pattern and the refinement of lines, become a kind of sign of belonging to high society.

In 1920, Lanvin expands his label's assortment by opening stores dedicated to home decor, men's fashion, furs, linen.

Since 1923, the company has become the owner of a dye factory in Nanterre. In the same year, the first Lanvin Sport line was released. However, the most significant innovation of the Fashion House is the Lanvin perfume line, launched in 1924, as well as the presentation of the Arpège fragrance, which Jeanne was inspired to create by the sound of her daughter playing the piano. A little later, "My Sin" is released, based on heliotrope and becoming one of Lanvin's most unique creations.

One of the most influential designers of the 1920s and 30s was Lanvin's skillful use of intricate trimmings, virtuosic beadwork, and the decoration of clothing with elements of pure, light floral hues. All this became a kind of trademark of the brand and distinguished it from the background of other Fashion Houses. Already at that time, film stars, opera singers and representatives of royal families were clients of the Lanvin studio.

In 1946, after the death of Jeanne Lanvin, ownership of the company passes to her daughter - Marie-Blanche de Polignac. Marie herself dies in 1958 and, since she was childless, the management of the brand passes into the hands of her cousin, Yves Lanvin. In March 1989, the British bank Midland Bank acquires a stake in the company. In 1990, this share is resold to Orcofi, a French holding led by the Vuitton family. In 1996, Lanvin is completely taken over by the L'Oreal Group.

In August 2001, the Lanvin Fashion House, one of the oldest in Europe, is taken under the patronage of the Harmonie SA investment group, led by Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wong, a media mogul from Taiwan. In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed artistic director of all areas of the Lanvin Fashion House, including the interior design department. In 2006, he presents a new package for the products of the Fashion House, which depicted forget-me-not flowers of Jeanne Lanvin's favorite shade, allegedly seen by her on ancient frescoes.

The House of Lanvin received international recognition when, in May 2009, Michelle Obama was photographed wearing the brand's suede sneakers embellished with lace ribbons and metallic appliqués. According to connoisseurs, this pair of shoes cost US$540. On December 4, 2009, the first Lanvin boutique in the United States opens, located in one of the ports of Florida.

On September 2, 2010, it was announced that the Lanvin Fashion House had begun cooperation with the well-known affordable clothing brand H&M, as well as the imminent release of their joint winter collection. It was presented to the public on November 4 and went on sale on November 20, 2010. The collection was available in 200 H&M stores around the world, and the day before the start of global sales, it arrived exclusively in the store in Las Vegas.

Jeanne Lanvin

fashion apreggio

She may not have revolutionized fashion. Didn't invent the little black dress, didn't create a new cut or style. Nevertheless, the merits of Jeanne Lanvin before the world fashion are undoubted: she was the first who began to sew clothes for children, without copying her patterns from adult fashion. For a hundred years, Jeanne Lanvin's house has been offering its simple, refined and at the same time luxurious clothes to everyone who appreciates uniqueness, taste and quality.

The creator of the famous house, Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, was born in Paris on the most magical day - January 1, 1867. She was the eldest of eleven children in the family of journalist Constant Lanvin and his wife Sophie-Blanche Deshaiers. There were so many children that the fees of Monsieur Lanvin, a very talented journalist who was friends with many celebrities of his time, were barely enough to live on. So Zhanna had to leave all thoughts of a decent education since childhood: her only teachers were her parents and their friends, who sometimes spent a couple of hours talking to a smart little girl. Jeanne had to take care of her younger brothers and sisters and work around the house. According to one of the legends, the famous writer Victor Hugo, a friend of Constant Lanvin, wrote his Cosette - the heroine of the novel Les Misérables - from Jeanne.

Since childhood, Jeanne loved to play with dolls - but not to play scenes with them family life, like other girls, but to sew clothes for them: the doll dresses that Zhanna made almost exactly repeated the outfits of rich ladies she met on the streets or in the newspaper office where her father worked. Over time, the mother, seeing her daughter's obvious talent, began to trust her to sew clothes for younger children.

Already at the age of thirteen, the girl was forced to go to work. First, she got a job in a hat workshop delivering orders to clients - little Jeanne spent days running around Paris with a dozen huge hat boxes - she had no money for a tram, and even more so for a cab. But two years later she was accepted as a seamstress in the rich atelier of the famous milliner Madame Felix. At the age of sixteen, Jeanne moved to the Talbot tailor's atelier and proved to be so talented and executive that the owner even sent her for an internship in Barcelona, which at that time was one of the centers artistic life Southern Europe. After returning from Spain, Jeanne decided to start her own business.

In 1889, Jeanne Lanvin, with the help of a former client, opened her own hat shop on the rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré. At that time, hats were the main accessory of women's attire: huge and whimsically decorated, or small and deceptively modest, they without fail adorned every female head. Mademoiselle Lanvin offered her clients hats that not only met all the requirements of the latest fashion, but were also made with fantasy, sophistication and taste unusual for a simple girl. Pretty soon, her atelier became famous among Parisian fashionistas, and Mademoiselle herself acquired extensive acquaintances in high society. In the morning she delivered orders, during the day she stood behind the counter, and at night she worked alone on new hats. From such a life, she developed a habit of silence - repelling fans, but having clients who did not want to waste time on long conversations.

Once, on a walk, a friend of one of her clients introduced a young milliner to an elegant young man with the most refined manners and a slight slyness in his eyes. It was an Italian aristocrat, Count Henri-Jean Emilio di Pietro, a lover of horse racing and gambling. It is said that di Pietro was captivated by a pretty silent girl and was going to make a very close acquaintance with her - at that time it was customary among young people with means to have their own dressmaker or seamstress, and, of course, not at all for sewing needs. However, Jeanne did not like such a relationship - and Henri-Jean had to marry her. They married on February 20, 1896. The marriage was unsuccessful: having received what he wanted, di Pietro quickly exchanged the family hearth for a tote and a card table, but in 1897 Jeanne had a daughter named Marie Blanche, or Marguerite - in French, chamomile. It was the chamomile that later became the first emblem of the House of Jeanne Lanvin.

Jeanne Lanvin

Movie star Mary Pickford in Lanvin

In 1903 Jeanne and di Pietro divorced. The meaning of life for Zhanna was her adored daughter, a lovely girl and very gifted musically. Tired of the "dusty grayness of modernity" reigning in children's stores and on the streets, as one of the French poets put it - the fashion of those years loved muted, faded, as if faded tones, especially achromatic ones - Jeanne began to sew bright and joyful outfits for her daughter tones. In addition to the unusual color scheme, Zhanna - for the first time in a long time - sewed children's outfits not as copies of adult toilets, as was customary, but completely different from them, but comfortable for games and walks. The young Marguerite's toilets were so successful that Madame Lanvin's clients drew the attention of them, and soon many began to ask for something similar to be sewn for their own children. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin introduced the first collection of children's clothing - in fact, she became the first fashion designer to design clothes specifically for children. She believed that children's clothing should not be either strict and prim or overly decorated - the first was boring, the second fettered and turned children, in her words, "from people into cream cakes." A year later, Madame Lanvin prepared a collection of clothes for women, both young and mature - surprisingly, much of it was taken from children's clothing: in fact, then they did the opposite. The simple cut of Lanvin dresses, romantic style, bright and pure colors, laconic but childishly elegant dressing for young fashionistas and their mothers made an impression on Parisians and instantly gained popularity.

Jeanne Lanvin with her daughter and son-in-law

Jeanne Lanvin was the first dressmaker to dress women of all ages in the same style, while at the same time taking into account the characteristics of each age. Her ateliers were called "Mother and Daughter Stores" - emphasizing that they offered clothes for the whole family. Fashion historians have found that if each Lanvin collection offered about one and a half hundred items, each client bought an average of thirty. In 1909, Jeanne Lanvin joined the French Haute Couture Syndicate, officially becoming a couturier.

Dresses from Lanvin were delicate and restrained, but, meanwhile, incredibly playful, romantic and feminine. Jeanne loved soft pastel colors - especially pink and lilac, smooth lines and flowing thin fabrics, with a delicate and graceful pattern, soft pleats, decolletes and feminine silhouettes. Her style is characterized by exquisite embroideries and appliqués, sumptuous beading and draperies. Her dresses were at the same time on the cutting edge of fashion, and beyond it. It is to this seemingly paradoxical quality that the House of Lanvin owes its success in the first place. Although Jeanne was one of the first to support the Paul Poiret revolution and abandoned corsets, she still remained conservative enough to sew dresses with a pronounced waist and ankle length even when garçon silhouettes came into fashion and hemlines were shortened to knee. In the end, it was precisely her feminine component that she loved in a woman - motherhood, the ability to love, tenderness and fragility - and androgyny, emancipation and athleticism that were not at all in vogue. Although historians call her herself among the first “new women”: Jeanne, who hired her own brothers to work in her atelier, represented an unusual type of working mother for that time, equally successful in business and in motherhood.

In 1907, Jeanne married a second time - this time her chosen one was the French journalist Xavier Mele, who works for the newspaper Les Temps. He belonged to the same environment as Jeanne's father, and she understood him perfectly. Together they traveled a lot - they traveled to almost all European countries, and everywhere Jeanne bought books in search of inspiration and for self-education, visited museums, flea markets and fabric shops - many samples she brought from all over the world made up the famous "library of fabrics", which admired by generations of clients of her house and art historians. In one of her trips to Italy, Jeanne saw the frescoes of the famous early Renaissance artist Fra Angel and co - his extraordinary blue color made such an impression on Jeanne that she immediately introduced it into her collections, making it her signature color - “blue Lanvin”. Over time, Lanvin’s “green Velasquez” and “pink Polignac” diluted the traditionally pastel palette of Lanvin fabrics, in honor of the daughter who acquired this famous aristocratic surname in marriage, were added to it. In order to retain the exclusive right to these colors, in 1923, Jeanne founded dyers in Nanterre, working exclusively for her. fashion house. But the clients of the house got the opportunity to order dresses of any, the most unthinkable shades.

Unfortunately, Jeanne did not find happiness in her second marriage either. The husband was more passionate about work than his wife: over time, he entered politics and achieved the post of French consul in Manchester. Jeanne, of course, could not leave her fashion house and move to England; their marriage gradually faded away, although both spouses retained respect for each other and met whenever possible. Disappointed in men, Zhanna focused her efforts on work, and love on her daughter. No wonder Louise de Vilmorin, novelist and longtime client of the House of Lanvin, wrote: "She impressed everyone with her work, but in fact she wanted to impress only her daughter." Marguerite was a very talented girl who was passionate about music and had a beautiful voice. Over time, she made a good career as an opera singer, and later married Comte Jean de Polignac, nine years her junior.

Madame Lanvin was famous for her ability to capture the desires of the public, while remaining true to her own style. One of the first couturiers, she introduced oriental motifs into her models, decorating the hems and bodices of evening dresses with luxurious gold embroidery and appliqué. In 1915, at the height of the First World War, she proposed the so-called "military crinoline" - wide skirts with numerous frills that could satisfy the longing for a happy peacetime that gnawed at the Parisians.

A typical Lanvin dress, model 1924

Sketch by Jeanne Lanvin

At the same time, Jeanne, who has not forgotten her Barcelona internship, offers outfits in the Spanish style - Spain did not participate in hostilities and served as a symbol of a calm life for warring Europe. In 1919, Madame Lanvin sewed practical and at the same time elegant shirt dresses - this silhouette would become super popular only ten years later. And in the twenties, she was one of the first to use Russian motifs in her collections - coats with fur trim, dresses with embroidery, reminiscent of either peasant towels, or ceremonial vestments of Byzantine emperors, silhouettes similar to traditional Russian sundresses and dushegrey. A little later, the House of Lanvin became famous for the so-called robes de style, "stylish dresses" - long romantic dresses with puffy "crinoline" skirts in the style of the 1840s, which have no analogues in other fashion designers. Some researchers believe that Christian Dior's New Look was inspired by the memories of the "stylish dresses" of Jeanne Lanvin. And in the thirties, as soon as Marlene Dietrich began to appear in public in wide trousers, Madame Lanvin immediately offered the famous silk “palazzo pajamas” - elegantly casual suits for going out, suspiciously similar to home outfits.

By the mid-1920s, Jeanne Lanvin enjoyed such prestige that she was elected chairman of the Organizing Committee of the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts - the one that gave its name to the famous Art Deco style. She performed so successfully in this role that since then she has been repeatedly invited to lead such events: for example, in 1931 she led the directorate of the exhibition in Brussels, in 1939 - in New York and San Francisco. In 1926, for outstanding services, she was awarded the Order of the Legion of Honor - and twelve years later she was awarded the rank of officer of the Legion of Honor.

Jeanne Lanvin was known not only as a couturier, but also as a philanthropist, art connoisseur and art collector: Lanvin especially appreciated the Impressionists and Symbolists with their amazing colors - her collection included, for example, paintings by Auguste Renoir, Edouard Villard, Henri Fantin-Latour. At the beginning of the century, she was friends with the artist Odilon Redon, whose paintings, full of bright translucent colors and poetic images, had a considerable influence on the work of Jeanne herself. Some researchers believe that Jeanne Lanvin may have been the aged artist's last love, but there is no documentary evidence for this.

Jeanne started alone, and in 1925 more than eight hundred people work in her atelier. By the end of the thirties, Lanvin stores were operating in Biarritz, Deauville and Cannes, in Madrid and Buenos Aires. Zhanna already produced lines of sportswear, underwear and furs, and in 1926 a line of men's clothing began to appear. Although Madame Lanvin created her first men's suit back in 1901 for the famous Edmond Rostand, for a long time she did not dare to put men's fashion on stream: at the beginning of the century, men and women traditionally sewed at different tailors, in addition, the outbreak of war and the post-war crisis significantly reduced the male clientele of haute couture houses. At the same time, she launched a line of home furnishings with designer and architect Armand-Albert Rato. Their cooperation began with the fact that Rato designed the Lanvin mansion, and the result impressed her so much that she entrusted him with the design of two country houses and own boutique. But his most famous creation is, of course, a bottle for the famous Arpege perfume in the form of a ball of dark glass.

Marguerite, Marie-Blanche Lanvin

Edouard Villar. Portrait of Jeanne Lanvin, 1933

Jeanne Lanvin with her daughter Marguerite

The House of Lanvin began to produce its own perfumery in the early twenties, but only with the advent of the Swiss perfumer Andre Freiss did it achieve real success in this field. Freys liked to say that "Like love, perfume must conquer a woman at once." His first perfume My Sin - "my sin" - was a huge success. They say that when he was about to start working on the next perfume, he came to Madame Lanvin for instructions - and she, pointing to her daughter who played the piano, said only: “Think of Marie Blanche!” Amazing perfumes, an exquisite chord of rose, jasmine, mock orange, lily of the valley and honeysuckle, shimmering like piano passages, Marie-Blanche called Arpege - "Arpeggio", now considered one of the pinnacles of world perfumery, a legend and eternal classic. Rato created for them an unusual bottle, exquisite in its simplicity, decorated with a golden pattern of the famous Paul Irib. This artist, who worked for Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret, created several drawings of Jeanne and her daughter in an evening gown by the House of Lanvin back in 1922. Jeanne chose one of them as the emblem of the house: on it Jeanne and Marguerite stretch out their hands to each other.

Jeanne's models had an amazing property - they knew how to look luxurious without overshadowing the personality of their wearer. The clients of the House of Lanvin were Hollywood stars and European monarchs, who ordered clothes from Lanvin for themselves and for their entire family. The Comtesse de Polignac, who became socialite and a well-known philanthropist, served as the best advertisement for her mother's fashion house - refined and romantic, she attended social events around the world exclusively in dresses from Lanvin.

Sketches by Jeanne Lanvin

Jeanne Lanvin models in the Gazette du Bon Ton, 1915

Jeanne did not stop working even with the outbreak of the Second World War: although her models became stricter, and the finish more concise - in war time it was hard to get beads, corals, smalt or mother-of-pearl, with which Lanvin used to embroider her outfits - they did not lose their attractiveness, still making a woman beautiful. Jeanne proclaimed “beauty no matter what,” and clients responded to her with devotion and respect.

Jeanne Lanvin died on July 6, 1946, at her home in Paris, in the arms of her daughter. The Countess Polignac, who inherited her mother's fashion house, carefully managed it until her death in 1958, and then passed it on to her nephew Yves Lanvin. With her, the Spaniard Antonio Canovas del Castillo became the main fashion designer of the house, who was replaced by Jules Francois Krahe in 1960. He worked for the House of Lanvin and the famous Claude Montana. Now it is led by Alber Elbaz, who managed to restore its former brilliance and glory, which has somewhat faded over time. And now, like decades ago, the name of Jeanne Lanvin means exquisite beauty, refined luxury and excellent taste.

This text is an introductory piece.

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