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The Sob station on the railway line Chum - Labytnangi is surrounded by mountains on all sides. This is the very middle of the Polar Urals, where the mountains, although not very high, but thanks to northern nature look quite impressive. The river Sob, which gave the name of the station, flows through the mountain valley - a tributary of the Ob. Clouds, rains and winds walk along the harsh polar mountains, and nature here in August already acquires an autumn color.
In the last part, I boarded a train in Labytnangi (yes, this name is inflected) - a satellite town of Salekhard, and the mountains, which had been looming on the horizon for a long time, at some point became unexpectedly close, and then surrounded the railway from all sides. After a two-week journey across the flat West Siberian Plain, such a landscape was completely unusual, and the landscape turned out to be unusually beautiful.
2. After two and a half hours of travel, I arrived at Sob station. A completely deaf place where I did not catch a mobile connection, and even people were almost invisible. Only the attendant left the station building, raised the disk, letting the train go, and went back. Next to the new station is an old wooden one, built in the 1940s, during the construction of this road. And behind the station there are several wooden houses (as a rule, of the same time).
3. And around the mountains. The village is inseparable from the station. The settlement itself is called Sob Station. This is a village of railway workers, some of them do not even live here permanently, but come in shifts from Vorkuta.
I spent a day on Sobi, spending the night at a camp site. In order to settle in it, it was necessary to find its elderly owner - Gennady Petrovich. At first, he himself was not at home - he went for mushrooms. His daughter was visiting him - also an elderly woman, who was born in Vorkuta, and now lives in Minsk (on this basis, a topic for conversation was immediately found). And Petrovich himself is a Vorkuta miner, who, in retirement, did not want to move to warmer climes, but simply moved to a quieter place, closer to nature.
4. And here is what the hostel looks like - several decommissioned compartment cars with a redesigned, but generally recognizable filling. It is a pity that I forgot to capture my car inside. The strangest feeling is that it is unusual to spend the night in a train car, which at the same time does not go anywhere, to see the same landscape through the window in the morning as in the evening.
5. Even the stamp has been preserved on the carriage. Then Tver was still Kalinin.
People from Vorkuta lived next door. From there, many go to the Polar Urals for the weekend. Already here I began to feel the color of Vorkuta and its inhabitants. The people there are pleasant, cheerful and close-knit — the difficult polar conditions, as I have said more than once, affect the way of life. By the way, to the question of climate, I remember the phrase of one woman who lived here at the camp site: “I once visited Gelendzhik in the winter. They have a terrible winter there. Slush, mud, humidity, it rains in the middle of winter. Here in Vorkuta much better!".
6. Branch Chum - Labytnangi - one of the most picturesque railways that I have ever seen. Single-track, diesel locomotive, and even with manual arrows, not to mention the landscapes around. Interestingly, the Sob station looks like a complete wilderness, but from here you can go by direct train to Moscow! With its color, Sob reminded me near Murmansk, but there is a bigger village, and the railway is busier. But the mountains are smaller.
Sob is still in the Yamal-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, but twenty kilometers to the west the Republic of Komi already begins, and it seems that the inhabitants of Sob associate themselves more with it. The clocks here are everywhere already on Moscow time (for them it is "Vorkuta"), and not +2 hours, as, in theory, it should be. Probably because there is nothing here but railway and all life is tied to it. And the railway, as you know, throughout Russia lives according to Moscow time. And in addition, Moscow time starts very close.
7. And to tell the truth, why is time here? The landscape of the Polar Urals evokes the feeling of being out of time. Around the majestic mountains, which are hundreds of millions of years old. Probably, if you come here during the polar day and go hiking in the mountains for a few days, you can naturally lose count of the days.
8. View towards Labytnang, where I came from:
Laying a railway through a mountain range is not a trivial task, and to solve it, you usually have to look for some kind of mountain saddle. Here the railway passed through the Sob-Elets valley: the Sob river is a tributary of the Ob, and about 20 kilometers to the west of this place there is a watershed, where on the other side the Yelets river begins, which already belongs to the Pechora basin. Interestingly, the watershed in this place is actually already west of the mountains, but it is along it that the border of Europe and Asia, as well as Komi and YNAO, passes.
9. And here is the river Sob. Like all mountain rivers, small and fast. On the right rises Mount Pour Keu. Its name is either from the Komi language, or from the Khanty. Word Keu means "stone" (consonant with Finnish Kivi), a Pour- I will carefully suggest that, perhaps, "deer", it painfully resembles the Finnish Peura. By the way, the height of the mountain is only 876 meters, but it seems to the eye that it is much more.
10. A pedestrian suspension bridge was thrown to the other side of the Sob, which, unfortunately, turned out to be broken, depriving me of the opportunity to go to Pour Keu. On the other side you can see the ski slope. And on the right, near the shore, there are two people with rubber boats - they turned out to be from Syktyvkar, arrived at Sob by the Moscow-Labytnangi train, and are preparing to raft down the river.
11. In the mountains, already at a height of 500 meters, the tundra begins. At the same time, in some places the vegetation in the valley is denser than in the foothills from the side of Labytnang. Apparently, because the mountains close the valley from the winds.
12. But still, there is sparse polar vegetation here. A stunted-looking Christmas tree, larch and birch.
13. Underfoot - a carpet of mosses, lichens and dwarf trees. At the end of August, this carpet is abundantly covered with ripe berries and mushrooms.
14. The Polar Urals are actually very narrow. Here, the width of the Ural Range is only 30 to 70 kilometers. Just recently around me ended West Siberian Plain, which is replaced by mountains abruptly and unexpectedly. And here it’s even hard to believe that just 25 kilometers to the west these mountains are already ending, just as abruptly breaking off, and giving way to the equally flat Bolshezemelskaya tundra, on which the north of Komi and the Nenets Autonomous Okrug are located.
15. At the same time, the mountains quite strongly influence the direction of the winds and the climate. Being on Sobi, I constantly watched with interest how clouds and rains go over the mountains, periodically changing their direction. Sometimes on two sides of the "Stone" the weather can be strikingly different, and in Vorkuta and Salekhard the climate is quite noticeably different. Especially in winter: the winds of the Kara Sea blow on Vorkuta, bringing heavy snowfalls and blizzards, when Sunny frost often comes to Salekhard from Eastern Siberia. Both atmospheric front, as a rule, rest against the Ural Mountains.
16. Some mountain stream flowing into Sob:
18. The weather here changes often and quickly. In general, all the time that I spent here, it was overcast, but the rain could either start or end quickly again. In the Arctic, there are usually no downpours like from a bucket - more often drizzling and almost imperceptible rain, under which you can walk for a very long time. From afar, it looks like foggy "milk" and, probably, falls in the form of snow on the mountain peaks...
19. The railway here is the only thread of civilization. Compared to the mountains that dominate all around, the lonely rails look like something small. It’s even hard to believe that it’s almost possible to travel by them to the rich capital of the oil and gas region, not far from here.
20. Kilometers from the Chum station on the Pechora highway, from which this branch begins.
21. I walk along the sleepers. At some point, a fox crossed my path, but, unfortunately, I did not have time to photograph it.
22. Rainy haze hid Sob station:
23. But the railway goes around the mountain, the name of which, unfortunately, I forgot.
24. At its slope is another reminder of the history of the construction of this road. The remains of the barracks of the 501st construction site, as already mentioned, this road was also built by prisoners. I think that wooden ruins in such a cold climate will remain for many years to come.
25. And here you can see the remains of the fence from the snow barriers:
26. Notice how low the clouds hang. There is always a feeling of "sky on the shoulders", which I did not feel anywhere except the Far North.
27. "It stands alone in the wild North ...". True, it is still not a pine, but a larch.
28. I go upstairs:
30. And now the railway has already remained somewhere below. The bridge crosses the Bolshaya Paipudyna River, a tributary of the Sob. It starts 50 kilometers from here on the Great Paipudinsky Range, whose name goes back to the Nenets Pai-Pudyna- "the end of the Stone" (in the sense of the Urals).
32. At every step, new amazing landscapes spread before your eyes:
34. Tundra:
35. Moss and reindeer moss. Somewhere else I found a piece of deer antler, but did not pick it up.
37. Dwarf birch grows abundantly. In August, it is still mostly green. Probably the most bright colors here you can see in the beginning and middle of September.
38. Where lower, even an ordinary birch grows. But low and crooked.
39. And bearberry against the background of moss and stone is already glowing with bright red cinnabar:
42. In a hollow on the other side of the slope, some abandoned houses are visible:
43. This is the now non-residential village of Polyarny. It was founded in the 1930s as a base for the development of a molybdenum ore deposit, after the war the military settled here - an air defense unit was stationed near the village. And in the 1970s, Polyarny became a settlement of geologists, but in the 1990s, geological exploration was curtailed here, the settlement was empty and was finally abolished in 2002. Some former residents of Polyarny now live in Salekhard and Labytnangi, I met one such elderly geologist at the ferry crossing, and he said that he sometimes visits the village where he used to live. More recently, there was a hostel here, and more comfortable than on Sob. But it burned down literally a week before my arrival here (fortunately, there were no people there during the fire).
However, exploration here seems to be gradually reviving. At the railway stop (the local passenger train continues to regularly stop here) there are some construction trailers, which, it seems, belong to geologists.
44. It must be said that in this part the Urals look much more impressive than near Yekaterinburg and Chelyabinsk. Somehow the grandeur of nature is felt stronger here. But the mountains are not so high: if the Subpolar Urals (along the border of Komi and Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug) reaches heights of more than one and a half kilometers (mountain N a native at 1895 meters - highest point Ural), then here the ridge descends to the Kara Sea, from which it then rises again in the form of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago.
45. The Sob-Yelets valley spreads picturesquely below. By the way, looking closer, you can see the railway.
46. Here she is:
47. And somewhere in the distance the station is visible. Where the train Labytnangi - Moscow arrives. Passenger trains there are only two couples a day. More trucks.
48. Confluence of Sobi and Big Paipudyna:
49. Mountain slope:
50. At first I wanted to go up here. But the weather interfered with the plans - low clouds began to creep to the top.
51. In the meantime, from somewhere below there was a lingering whistle of a diesel locomotive and the sound of wheels. This train Labytnangi - Moscow drove up closer. In my head, by the way, there is a 2TE10 freight diesel locomotive - there are not enough passenger ones here.
52. Rides across the bridge over Paipudyna. I can't even believe that the same train that I now see here will arrive at the Yaroslavsky railway station in Moscow in two days.
54. In the background, the Great Paipudinsky Range is already visible, on which it seems to be snowing.
55. Red-yellow days:
56. This feeling was already familiar to me from the Kola Peninsula. In such places you feel like an atom in a vast universe, experiencing some indescribable inspiration.
58. In many places, even at the end of summer, there is snow:
60. But it's time to go down. Let's take a last look at the Sobi Valley from above:
62. So I went back to the station, at some point entering the gray veil of rain.
64. So the station is already starting:
And my path lay in the last point of this great northern journey - the famous polar city of Vorkuta in the northern tip of the Komi Republic. I'll tell you about how I went there next time. And after that, about the city itself.
The Siberian river Sob originates on a slope near the Polar Urals, passing through the urban-type settlement of Kharp. The length of the reservoir is 190 kilometers, and the total area of its catchment area is 5900 square kilometers. The main tributaries are the Khanmei and Bolshaya Paipudyna. The main industrial facility of regional importance, located within its channel, is a plant for breeding various fish species. Having a picturesque coastal zone with a characteristic predominance of mountain landscapes, Sob is very popular with fans of eco-tourism. The river is also of considerable interest among fishermen - the local water resources have the widest species diversity. The impressive distance from the Sob riverbed of large industrial facilities and highways dictates excellent conditions for organizing all types of recreation in the coastal zone.
Story
The first mention of the reservoir dates back to the end of the sixteenth century. Its name is associated with the formation of the old Russian word, which means "belongings." That is why the Nenets people used to call the Sob a “knapsack” river. In ancient times, the river passed famous way through the mountain range to Yugra.
Peculiarities
Sob is known as the most popular river among Ural travelers. Referring to the Ob, it is its left-hand tributary and covers a significant part of the Asian territory. The total length of the channel is close to 175 kilometers, and the entire basin is 6400 square meters. kilometers. It freezes, as a rule, at the end of October, and begins to actively free itself from ice by the end of May. The most full-flowing time for this river reservoir is the middle of June. In addition, Sob often overflows after prolonged rains. If we talk about the upper reaches and the course of the middle part, then this is a typical mountain river with a restless flow pattern, which has many rifts and rapids. The steepest threshold was recorded in the village of Kharp. There are also many shoals in the upper part of the current. Thanks to the grandiose beauty of landscapes, travelers discover impressive polar landscapes. Many of the lovers of eco-tourism make trips to Mountain peaks, adjacent to the coastal zone, from where all the beauty and power of the coastal zones are perfectly traced. The most popular hill for tourists is Rai-iz. Rafting, as a rule, begins at 110 kilometers of the channel, and the total length of the section ending in the settlement of Kharp is about fifty kilometers. Some continue to ferry to Katrovozh, located at a distance from the railway station, so it is worth arranging a transfer.
The water in Sobi is really, very clean, and besides, it is clear and very cold. But temperature regime does not interfere with the growth and reproduction of some fish species, among which there are valuable breeds. Thanks to this, the reservoir is a favorite place for summer and ice fishing for fishermen from different parts of Russia. You can spend the night in a tent on the beach. The river is surrounded by a wonderful larch forest, so it is not difficult to find firewood for a fire. Fishing can be successfully combined with the collection of forest gifts - mushrooms and berries.
How to get there
Of the most convenient ways to get to Sob, they note the journey by rail by train in the direction Moscow - Labytnangi, overcoming 1931 kilometers.
The Sob River is a left tributary of the Ob. It originates on the western slope of the Ural Mountains, crosses the ridge and flows along the eastern slope. The Sob River has always been of great transport importance, because. it was one of the few roads from Europe to Asia and back. Even the railway from the Seyda station to Kharp was laid exactly along the channel of the Sobi. In the upper reaches, the Sob River has a typical mountainous character with a rocky bottom, clear and transparent water, fast current. Opposite the village of Kharp there is a famous rapid, which, when the water is high, can be a serious obstacle. European grayling and pike (in the lower reaches) are found in Sob. Taimen, broad whitefish, peled and even whitefish can also be caught. In the village of Kharp, there is the Sobsky fish breeding plant, whose task is to restore the population of valuable fish species in the Lower Ob basin (muksun, peled, whitefish, nelma, sturgeon). In the lower reaches of the Sob, it acquires the features of a typical flat river: gentle banks, a wide channel, the flow speed noticeably decreases, along the banks there is mainly a larch forest and shrubs. In the season there are a lot of mushrooms and berries (blueberries, lingonberries, cloudberries). In the lower reaches, mainly pike, roach, perch are found. There are quite a lot of pike and it is large, on average 7-8 kg, there are specimens up to 12 kg. On this page we offer fishing on the Sob River from the village of Kharp to the village of Katravozh. This fishing tour to Sob turns out to be the most inexpensive and democratic, because. transfer to the route is supposed to be by rail, i.e. without involving expensive tracked vehicles, wheeled vehicles or an even more expensive helicopter.
Fishing program on the Sob River and its tributary Haramatolou
This is our only fishing tour, where the meeting of the group does not take place at the station, but right on the train. Our conductor will get on the train to the group passing by and it will happen at the railway station of the city of Inta. The guide will be with all the belongings: catamarans, camping equipment, etc. 
Our tourists, together with the guide(s), will travel about 8 hours from Inta to Kharp station. In Kharp, the group will be met by a car that will take everyone to the banks of the Sob River. The group will land ashore just below the famous threshold, which is located below the bridge over the river. The threshold is sometimes serious and its complexity reaches 2-3 categories, therefore, it makes no sense to take risks once again and pass it through the water. Better to stand on the oars below the threshold.
On the shore of Sobi, the group, together with the guide, collects catamarans, packs things. In the meantime, lunch is being prepared. After lunch - the beginning of rafting on the river Sob.
One of the reasons why we chose the Kharp station as the starting point is the fact that the Sob leaves Kharp away from the railway and flows through absolutely wild and untouched places Polar Urals. No proximity to the railway and no anthropogenic influence!
The second, third and fourth days of fishing on the Sob will be devoted to rafting and, in fact, fishing for European grayling and pike. After about 25 km of rafting from Kharp, the group sails past the mouth of the Hanmei River. Here you should definitely make a stop, and ideally, even make a day at this place and walk upstream the Khanmei to fish for grayling. 
Below Kharp, 43 kilometers (18 km from the mouth of Khanmei), our tourists will have to swim past the mouth of another wonderful river- Haramatalou. Haramatalou should also be paid attention and be sure to rise above its rapids - there is excellent fishing for trophy grayling!
Below the Haramatalou River, the character of the Sob River will change and it will turn from a mountainous river into a typical flat river with a wide channel, gently sloping banks and shrubs along the banks. Fishing will be mainly for pike and grayling will be seen less and less. For a variety of diet, be sure to look into the forest in search of mushrooms and cloudberries (if the season is right).
On the fifth, sixth and seventh day of rafting, a group of fishermen will reach the middle and lower reaches of the Sob River. Basically, pike, a little white fish (roach, perch) and possibly taimen will be hooked (but, as you know, it is forbidden to catch and it must be released) 
The Sob River in this section becomes full-flowing and our tourists will meet local fishermen who rise on motor boats and even boats from Katravozh or even from settlements located on the Ob. In general, the fishing life in the lower and middle reaches of the Sob is in full swing! The most interesting thing is that there are enough fish for everyone. There are so many pike that no one has ever left Sobi without fish.
All our groups are rafting on catamarans (we do not use kayaks and rafts). As practice has shown, a catamaran is the best remedy rafting on the rivers of the Urals. It is quite stable, easy to assemble and operate, and when assembled, it takes up a minimum of space. Ideal for rafting on the Sob River. At the request of our tourists, we can supply catamarans with small outboard motors, which will allow us to pass areas that are unpromising for fishing faster, without delaying.
During this rafting fishing, the group will definitely make one, or maybe two, day stops. During the stay, a tourist bath is organized, tourists have a rest, take walks in the form of radials to the lakes and Sobi oxbow lakes (sometimes especially large pike are found in the oxbow lakes).
The eighth day is the last and it will be devoted to the exit from the route. In theory, already on the evening of the seventh day, the group should approach the village of Katravozh and camp not far from it. 
On the morning of the eighth day, our tourists are loaded from a boat or into a boat (there will be a preliminary agreement with it) and begin their descent down the Ob from the village of Katravozh to the village of Labytnangi. The Ob has a very wide channel and strong wind there is often a wave here. It is not uncommon for boats and even boats to capsize on this wave. Therefore, in a boat or on a boat, it is imperative to be in a safety vest! In no case should you neglect the safety rules.
Upon arrival in Labytnangi, a group of our tourists will be met by a car and will take things and people to the Labytnangi railway station. If time permits, our guests can take a ferry (runs every 15 minutes) to Salekhard (located on the other side of the Ob) and visit the Obdorsky Ostrog, take pictures near the mammoth statue and just see the city of Salekhard. In the evening departure of the train from Labytnangi. In Inta, our guide will get off the train (along with all the belongings), and our guests will go further home.
sob- a river originating on the eastern slopes of the southern part of the Polar Urals. Sob passes through the village of Kharp.
The Sob is a left tributary of the Ob and flows into it near the village of Katrovozh.
Length 185 km, catchment area 5890 km². The river is fed mainly by snow. High water in June - July. Average perennial annual consumption water (calculated) about 50 m³ / s, the volume of annual runoff is 1.5 km³. The main tributaries: on the left - Khanmei and Bolshaya Paipudyna, on the right - Orekhyogan and Haramatolu.
Tourism
The river is popular among tourists, the sources are located in the mountains. The main part of the railway line passes through the river valley, which is an operating section of the Transpolar Highway (now the Northern Railway). The entire operating section of the Transpolar Highway is the Chum - Labytnangi railway line (otherwise referred to as Seida - Labytnangi, since no trade operations are carried out at the Chum station). That part of the operating section, during the construction of which the advantages of the relief of the Sob River were used, is the Yeletsskaya - Kharp stretch. Due to its good transport accessibility, it is popular with water tourists who lay routes of 1-4 categories of difficulty along it.
Water trip along the Sob River in the Polar Urals. Sob - Harp - Katrovozh. 17 – 31 July 2014.
Participants: a married couple - Oleg and Galina, two "guard" dogs - Lada and Roma.
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Watercraft: kayak "Svir"
Our hike can be clearly divided into two parts: before Harp and after Harp. Although the distance from the station Sob to the village of Kharp is 46 km, and from Kharp to the village of Katrovozh is more than 110 km, we devoted a week to each part.
Part 1: st. Sob - Kharp.
In this part, the Sob flows among the most beautiful mountains of the north of the Ural Range. It is not wide, there are many pebble islands, shoals and channels. There are no problems with parking, you can stop at pebble beaches, and in cozy clearings in the adjacent forest. The forest consists mainly of larches and birches. There were whole fields of dwarf birches. Flowers grow.
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We forgot about darkness. At the first two stops, at about one in the morning, locally, they simultaneously admired the sunset in the west and the dawn in the east. There were gorgeous sunsets on Raiza.
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The Ural met us with coolness (about 10 degrees), but then it got warmer. There was only one rain, and that one at night. There were no midges and midges, but there were influxes of mosquitoes.
Having read that the Sob is a simple river, and having passed several rifts, we finally relaxed and lost respect for the Sob. And the rivers do not forgive. The result was not long in coming: a strong current, a sharp turn, pressure and, as a result, overkill. Having given us a “click on the nose”, Sob had mercy on us. We "turned on" the sun, the breeze.
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There was a parking lot nearby. Judging by its condition, they roam here with enviable regularity. We only lost the dog collar. Even the paddle I missed was found after a couple of hours. Then we sailed very carefully, preferring small channels to clamps.
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On Rayiz we stopped at the mouth of the Vostochny Nyrdvomenshor stream on the right bank of the Sob. The parking lot is behind the bushes and is not visible from the water. We stayed there for three nights. We learned the name of the stream “TWO cops in shorts dived”, went to Rayiz and Jade waterfall.
The initial goal was to reach the mountain lakes, which are located in the square (depression) of the Rayiz plateau. Rayiz means "red mountains". And they are really red, especially in the light of the setting sun.
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Kara with lakes is visible from afar. A waterfall stream flows out of it.
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It took us an hour and a half to reach the foot of the Rayiz. We did not find any clear path. We walked through a larch forest, thickets of dwarf birches just in the direction of the car. We went out on an all-terrain vehicle, walked along it a little and ended up on a beautiful plain with rarely growing larches and scattered stones.
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Then we walked a little more through the forest and ended up at the foot of the mountains.
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There were two streams in front of us. The left stream (with its back to the mountains) had a beautiful snowfield, the right stream flowed out of the lakes in a square. Although we needed the right Waterfall Creek, we were tempted by the snowfield. Where else can you make a snowman in July and decorate it with flowers?
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It was not the first visit to the snowfield in my life, but the first accompanied by mosquitoes!
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From the snowfield, we began to climb large stones to the left.
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We crossed the ridge between the streams and climbed to the waterfall on the right stream.
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There we decided to end our ascent. I took a bath in the waterfall bath and we moved down. The path to the lakes went on the right and was very steep. Several young people met said that they tried to go to the lakes, but at the top they came to sheer cliffs, and they had to turn back. Other young people managed to reach the lakes by finding a passage on the right.
Our way down was much easier than going up. We went down the stream, went to the left, crossing the ridge between the streams much lower than on the way here.
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The next day I, accompanied by dogs, went to Jade Falls. Description of the road there is here http://www.skitalets.ru/water/2005/sob_trusk/. This is very good description, but with a slight inaccuracy: from the river to the waterfall is not 12, but 17 km. The first hour before crossing with the Eastern Nyrdvomenshor, I walked along a gorgeous road. Tverskaya, not lower.
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The question was spinning in my head: “What kind of equipment can pass here?” Her remains came across to me along the way. In another two hours the road crossed the stream for the last time and went to its left. A gentle ascent began. Became visible to the left of the Sphinx mountain with its two peaks.
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Soon I saw a lake to the left of the road.
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Passing it and walking for another half an hour, I crossed a stream flowing out of the lake. And there I left the all-terrain vehicle, turning left along a clear track going into the gorge of the Northern Nyrdvomenshor stream in front of the Sphinx Mountain. It is on this stream that the waterfall is located. From the turn to the waterfall about 5 km. The road is good, but with steep ascents and descents. The most beautiful views!
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I reached the base of geologists, or rather, to its ashes.
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Then the road went down to the stream and ended. Another stream flows there, and something like a fork is formed. Take it to the left. Another 600-700m of climbing over stones, rocks, and I am at the waterfall.
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But he is not visible! Some two indistinct jets and a bath. To see at least its lower level, I climbed over the left rocky spur and saw HIM. What energy and power!
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The whole trip there and back took me 10 hours. It was a wonderful walk. My only regret is that I didn't bring my running shoes with me. Boots are required there, but part of the way (almost half) can be covered in sneakers.
The next day we sailed to Kharp and stood a kilometer away on the right bank. The houses were already visible. locals fishing on the other side. The next day we sailed up to the village and moored on the pebbles behind the pipe across the river before the first threshold.
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Kharp is a large settlement with a strict regime zone, production, high-rise buildings and shops. Near the river there is a hotel "Sob", 300 meters away there is a supermarket. It is small but has everything you need including Exotic fruits and shrimp, there are at regular prices. In the same building there is a large hardware store, where we also bought a collar to replace the one we lost during the keel. Fishing equipment for sale.
The second threshold is located behind the road bridge. Thresholds were not too simple for a frame kayak. Not having enough experience, we took the boat along the right bank.
