How to treat orange spots on a pear. A common leaf disease is pear rust.

Representing a dangerous disease, pear rust affects the crop mainly in the spring (April), in wet weather. The main source of the disease is juniper. After rain, the basidia of the fungus dry out, detach from the growths and spread over long distances (up to 50 km) by the force of the wind.

Pear leaves become covered with red spots with black dots (spermogonia), and cone-like outgrowths form on the underside. Both shoots and fruits are infected. Beginning gardeners often have questions: “Why do pears get rusty spots and what to do in such cases?” To understand how to deal with the disease, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with its features.

Symptoms of a dangerous lesion

The first signs of the presence of basidia on the fruit crop are clearly visible already in July. The outer side of the leaf is covered with yellow or red spots with black dots up to 1.5 cm in diameter; a crimson border may stand out. After some time, a change in the color of the spots is observed, they become brown in color, and the growths become brown. When a pear is deeply affected by rust, peculiar horns form on the growths.

As a result of rust, the leaves on the pear begin to fall off, the fruits lose their presentation and decrease in weight. Infected shoots become covered with greenish-yellow spots, which inhibits their growth and development. They thicken and become short, and then simply dry out. If the disease has an average degree of development, then the shoots may continue to grow, but after 2-3 years the bark and wood crack.

When planting, it is advisable to choose pear varieties that are resistant to rust. Varieties susceptible to the disease can be noted:

• Bere Boek, Curé, Klapp's Favorite, Bere Ardanpont, Winter Dikanka (highly susceptible);
• Bere Gardi, Bere Ligelya, William, Bere Giffard, Ilyinka, Skorospelka from Trevou (moderately affected);
• Suniani, Nanaziri, Gulabi, Saharnaya, Gordzala, Sailo (relatively stable).

To prevent rusty spots from appearing on pear leaves, you should periodically inspect the coniferous bushes located near the orchard. If its branches are covered with fungal spores, they should be cut out and burned immediately.

Control measures should be aimed at carrying out the following activities:

• excessively infected shoots and branches must be pruned by 5-10 cm even before the buds open;
• infected areas must be cleaned down to healthy wood and treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, then covered with garden varnish;

For information! For a better and faster recovery of the fruit crop, you can disinfect the wound with heteroauxin at the rate of 0.5 g per 10 liters of water.

Treatment of pear disease can be carried out by spraying with copper- and sulfur-containing compounds or products from the dithiocarbamate category. Before flowering, basidiospores work well:

• Bordeaux solution 1% or Kuproksat, Kuprosil, Champion, Blue Bordeaux, copper oxychloride;
• colloidal sulfur or Cumulus DF, Thiovit jet;
• Polyram DF.

After flowering of the fruit crop, the following spraying is carried out with one of the proposed fungicides. After three weeks, treat the garden again to prevent rust from appearing on the pear leaves. It is important to know that if you apply chemical treatments against scab, you do not need to additionally spray the trees against fungal disease.

In the fall, after picking the fruits, it is advisable to use:

• Soon, at the rate of 2 ml of the drug per 10 liters of liquid;
• Delan at the rate of 7 grams per bucket of water;
• Tercel in the amount of 25 g, diluted in one bucket of liquid.

In order not to develop resistance in the pathogen, one fungicide cannot be used twice if yellow spots appear on the leaves of the pear.

After the leaves have fallen, the trees must be treated with a urea solution, for which you need to measure out 700 g of the product and dilute it in 10 liters of water. Fallen leaves are burned or placed in a compost pit for two years.

How to get rid of it using traditional methods? Orange spots on pear leaves, as many gardeners assure, can be treated with an infusion of wood ash, marigolds, horsetail or organic fertilizer.

Preventive measures give a good result, since the disease can appear again on a cured crop. It is necessary to observe the tree for at least a couple of years, given that it is quite difficult to fight rust. If the leaves on the pears turn red, it is necessary to urgently take measures to treat it.

What preventive actions should be taken?

Experienced summer residents say that preventive measures against rust on pear trees are better than treating it. For this it is recommended:

• Arrange windproof plantings around the orchard. This is a unique planting of natural plants, especially fir hedges that have proven themselves well. It not only protects from strong winds, but also from the spread of diseases. Such plantings make it possible to extend the life of fruit trees, protecting them from drying summer and frosty winter winds, as well as from spores from wild juniper bushes.
• If it is not possible to refuse to grow coniferous plants next to fruit trees, you need to carefully inspect them in the spring for damage by fungal spores. If affected parts of the tree are identified, they are cut off and burned.
• Regular pruning, adding nutrients, and spraying with appropriate fungicides will help increase the tree's resistance to damage by harmful spores.
• In the spring and autumn, it is recommended to use copper oxychloride, Bordeaux mixture 1%, and the effective drug Kuproxat.
• Another highly effective method in the fight against rust on pears is considered to be four-time spraying with Fitosporin - M. This drug is of biological origin, it should be used during the budding phase, after flowering and at the stage of ovary formation, when it increases to the size of a hazelnut, and then about the size of a walnut.
• If the foliage is covered with characteristic spots, it must be collected and burned.

Rust on fruit crops causes many problems for gardeners, depriving them of a tasty and aromatic harvest. In addition, spores of the disease can spread throughout the garden, infecting both apple and quince trees. When the first symptoms of damage appear, it is recommended to carry out treatment as quickly as possible. And the implementation of preventive measures will avoid relapse and preserve the plantings.

Pears are often susceptible to disease and pest attacks. To overcome such problems, the gardener must know the signs of major diseases, the appearance of pests, and the consequences of their attack. Knowledge of prevention and methods of combating these troubles is also necessary.

Pear diseases: description, prevention and treatment

To a large extent, the gardener will get rid of problems associated with pear diseases and possible pests if he regularly and systematically carries out sanitary and preventive measures.

Table: preventive measures for a pear orchard

Fungicides are drugs to combat fungal plant diseases.

Insecticides are preparations for controlling insect pests.

Acaricides are drugs used to combat ticks.

Pesticides are the general name for these drugs.

Septoria

This fungal disease has a second name - white spot of pear. Usually appears after flowering in the form of small grayish-white spots on the leaves and fruits. By mid-summer, in conditions of high humidity, the disease reaches its peak in development. By this time, the size of the spots increases to two millimeters, in rare cases - up to four millimeters. The edging of the spots is barely noticeable and has a brown or brownish tint. The leaves turn yellow and dry out, which causes them to be dropped prematurely. As a result, growth is weakened, the winter hardiness of the tree is reduced, the quality of the fruit deteriorates and the yield decreases. Fungal spores usually persist in fallen leaves, so they should be collected and burned.

The second name for septoria is white spotting of pear

If signs of septoria are detected, treat with fungicides. You can use the well-known and tested Horus, which is a systemic drug. This means that its active substance penetrates inside the plant and after 2-3 hours it is impossible to wash it off. The drug continues to act for 7-10 days, after which the treatment is repeated. In just one season, up to three treatments can be carried out. Further, due to the fungus becoming accustomed to the drug, the effectiveness of the treatments decreases sharply. Chorus works well at temperatures from +3 °C to +22 °C. To spray pears, dilute 2 grams of the drug per 10 liters of water. Non-phytotoxic, safe for bees. The waiting period before eating the fruit is 14 days. The drug is effective against a number of fungal diseases, including scab, moniliosis, rot, spots, rust, etc. The disadvantage of the drug is that it is effective only on young leaves and shoots. It penetrates less easily into coarser tissues, which limits its use.

Horus fungicide is effective against most pathogens of fungal diseases

Another effective drug is Skor. It is also a broad-spectrum systemic drug that can be used at any stage of pear development. Effective at the early stage of infection - no later than 2-3 days after contact with fungal spores. It begins to act within 2–3 hours after treatment and maintains a preventive effect for 6–7 days. A solution for treating pears is made immediately before use, using 2 grams of the drug per 10 liters of water. Most effective in the temperature range 14-25 °C. The waiting period is 20 days. Non-toxic for humans. Number of treatments - 3.

Skor is a systemic broad-spectrum drug

Strobi (Kresoxim-methyl) is considered the most effective drug. Its action is local-systemic. It not only quickly stops the development of the disease, but also blocks the development of fungal spores. This allows the drug to be used at later stages of the disease and prevents further proliferation of the pathogen. The effectiveness of the protective action lasts for two weeks, in severe cases - one week. Similar to the previous preparations for the working solution, take 2 grams of Strobi per 10 liters of water. Non-toxic to humans, harmless to bees. The waiting period is 20 days. Number of treatments - 3.

Strobi is one of the most effective drugs for fighting fungi

A fungal disease that affects pear and apple trees. May affect leaves and fruits. Usually, at first they form red-brown spots, which after a while become depressed. Then the fruits turn black, shrivel and mummify. But still, the fungus mainly affects the bark of the tree and this is the most dangerous manifestation of the disease. After overwintering in the cracks and roughness of the bark, the spores develop, and depressed brown-violet spots appear on the bark. These spots then grow into concentric rings. After this, the affected areas crack and turn black, the branches become as if charred, and many small black tubercles form on them. These are the so-called pycnidia, inside of which there are fungal spores.

Pycnida, pycnidia (from ancient Greek πυκνός - dense, thick) - the fruiting body of conidial sporulation of fungi, found in rust and marsupial fungi, as well as in lichens.

Wikipedia

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyknida

The bark begins to bulge, the lesion grows and rings the branch or trunk. At this stage, it is no longer possible to save the tree and it is destroyed. If the disease is detected at an early stage, it is treated by stripping the diseased bark and wood, capturing the healthy parts. Then the wound is treated with fungicides and covered with garden pitch or natural drying oil. Some gardeners recommend using a solution of copper naphthenate (20 parts) in kerosene (80 parts) to treat black cancer. The most effective drug is Strobi, which can be alternated with Chorus.

In areas affected by black cancer, the bark becomes lumpy, the lesion grows and rings the branch or trunk

Scab

This disease is most common in areas with humid climates and in other areas during rainy years. The best temperature for the development of fungus is +25 °C. Under favorable conditions, the degree of damage to trees reaches 100%. The spores of the pathogen overwinter in bark cracks and fallen leaves. The disease usually begins in the spring when round brown-olive spots form on the underside of the leaves. Subsequently, the spots grow, darken and spread to flowers, ovaries, and fruits. Putrid spots and cracks appear on the affected fruits, and the pulp underneath becomes hard and rocky. You can get rid of scab in the garden by regularly performing preventive work using fungicides, as well as by growing pear varieties that are resistant to this disease. Some of them: Mramornaya, Lada, Chizhovskaya, Moskovskaya, Moskvichka, Severyanka, Thumbelina, Velesa and others. The methods of combating scab and the drugs used are the same as in the case of septoria.

Putrid spots and cracks appear on the affected fruits, the pulp underneath becomes hard and rocky.

Orange spots on pear leaves

Most likely, the pear is affected by rust. This disease is caused by a fungus that grows and develops on juniper bushes. It has a two-year life cycle. In the first year, the disease progresses on the juniper, forming swellings and swellings on the branches. In the spring, the spores are carried by the wind and, when they land on a pear, the disease infects it. The following spring, spores from the pear fall on the juniper and the cycle repeats.

On pear, the disease appears in the spring immediately after flowering. The leaves are covered with small greenish-yellow spots, which by mid-summer acquire a “rusty” color. Dense nipple-like growths form on the underside of the leaf, inside which are fungal spores.

By mid-summer, the spots take on a “rusty” color.

The areas where rust is most likely to appear are the Black Sea zone of the Krasnodar Territory and Crimea. Here the defeat in some years reaches 50-100%.

It is clear that when growing pears it is better to avoid proximity to juniper. But, since it is a fairly common ornamental plant, it is not always possible to comply with this. Therefore, in such cases, preventive work should be carefully carried out not only on the pear, but also on the juniper.

If signs of disease are detected, the crown should be sprayed with fungicides at intervals of 7-10 days. The most effective are Skor, Strobi, Abiga-Peak. The latter is a solution of a 40% solution of copper oxychloride and is also effective against many fungal diseases - rust, moniliosis, scab, spotting, etc. It contains adhesives that prevent the drug from being washed off by rain. Low danger to bees and earthworms, does not affect the quality of the soil or the taste of the fruit. For spraying, 40-50 grams of the drug are consumed per 10 liters of water. The duration of treatment is 2-3 weeks. You can carry out up to four treatments per season.

Abiga-Pik is effective against many fungal diseases

Video: fighting rust on pear leaves

Leaves and fruits turn black: causes and methods of control

Blackening can be caused by several reasons.

Moniliosis (monilial burn)

The spores of this fungus are usually carried by bees during pear flowering. Starting to develop in flowers, the fungus penetrates through the pistil into the shoot, then into the leaves. The affected parts of the pear wither, then turn black and look as if they were burned. Such shoots must be immediately cut out with part of the healthy wood to stop the spread of the disease. And of course, a cycle of fungicide treatments should be carried out. The first treatment can be carried out immediately after trimming the affected parts of the tree. If flowering has not yet ended at this time, Horus is used, which does not harm the bees. Two more treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days. You can use Strobi, Skor, Abiga-Peak.

With moniliosis, leaves and shoots look burned

In the summer, moniliosis causes damage to fruits by gray (fruit) rot. Affected fruits, leaves, shoots are removed and destroyed, after which 2-3 treatments are carried out with Strobi fungicide. And also recently, the biological fungicide Fitosporin-M, which contains live spores and cells of soil bacteria that are dormant, has been gaining popularity. When the substance is soaked, bacteria are activated and begin to feed. As a result, the growth and reproduction of pathogens and fungal spores is suppressed. The use of Fitosporin eliminates infection problems in the early stages. In advanced cases, you cannot do without chemistry. The biological product can be used throughout the growing season for all plants in the garden. Interval - 2 weeks, in rainy weather - 1 week. The drug is available in powder or paste form. To treat pears, dissolve 5 grams of powder or 3 teaspoons of paste in 10 liters of water. The use of Fitosporin increases productivity and significantly increases the shelf life of fruits.

Fitosporin-M - biological fungicide

Bacterial burn (bacteriosis)

This disease is caused by the bacterium Erwinia Amilovora and is distributed throughout the world. The onset of the disease is characterized by blackening of the inflorescences, which dry out but do not fall off. Following them, the leaves and branches turn black, then the trunk. Blackening moves from the top of the tree to the base. As a result, the tree dies. Although this disease is not a fungal disease, fungicides (especially Strobi), copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture are effective for prevention purposes. For treatment, antibiotic treatments are used, dissolving 1 thousand units of the active substance in 10 liters of water. The following drugs can be used: gentamicin, kanamycin, streptomycin, rifampicin, chloramphenicol and others. Affected branches are removed and burned.

Inflorescences, ovaries, and leaves affected by bacterial burn turn black, dry out, but do not fall off

Video: treating pears for bacterial burns and scabs

Sooty fungus

This fungus appears on pear leaves, usually after an attack by an aphid or copperhead. It is their sweetish secretions (honeydew) that provide a breeding ground for the fungus. Sooty fungus can be recognized by the black soot-like coating on the leaves. Being, in fact, excrement of a fungus, this coating is easily erased from the surface of the leaf. Affected pear fruits become unfit for consumption.

Pear fruits affected by sooty fungus become unfit for consumption

Fighting aphids and copperheads at the same time will relieve the gardener of sooty fungus. If damage has already occurred, you can first thoroughly wash off the sooty deposits from the leaves with a strong stream of water from a hose, and then carry out 2-3 treatments with Skor or Strobi.

Pear pests: representatives and control of them

Pears have quite a few possible pests. Avoiding their attack, as well as reducing possible damage, is possible only if you take the preventive measures described at the beginning of the previous section.

How to get rid of ants

Ants themselves do not harm plants, although some species do feed on leaves and berries. The main problem they create is aphids. During their life, these insects secrete a sugary liquid, for which the ants bring aphids to the crowns of trees and shrubs in order to subsequently receive the coveted delicacy from them. This is the reason why you should get rid of ants on your property. There are many methods to achieve a goal. Radical ones are:

• Destruction of insects with insecticides - Diazinon, Chlorpyrifos, Antiant and others.
• Boric acid paralyzes the nervous system of insects. Bait is used in the form of sugar cubes soaked in this product.
• Pouring boiling water over an anthill.
• Treating an anthill with kerosene.

But there are many more humane folk remedies:

• In the evening, when the ants fall asleep, simply transfer the anthill with a shovel into a bucket and take it out of the area.
• Plant plants in the area whose smell repels ants. For example, anise, wormwood, garlic, parsley, oregano, wild mint.
• You can scare away ants with rags soaked in kerosene, carbolic acid, or bleach.
• You can block the ant's path to the tree crown by installing a hunting belt.
• Coating the bottom of the trunk with hemp oil will also stop the ants.

Aphid

It is located on the underside of pear leaves and feeds on their juice. Over time, the leaves curl into a tube. Aphids can also attack young shoots, flowers and ovaries. Having driven the ants out of the garden, the gardener also gets rid of aphids. In addition, you can plant calendula on the site. This flower attracts ladybugs, which readily feed on aphids.

Aphids settle on the undersides of leaves and also on the tips of young shoots

If you find aphids on pear leaves, you should try to tear them off as much as possible. After this, you need to treat the crown with insecticides. The German drug Decis copes well with aphids. It begins to act within 50 minutes and within ten hours after treatment the aphids will be finished. Maintains a protective effect for 2-3 weeks. Effective against almost all types of insects. Can be used at any time during the growing season, waiting period is three weeks. 2–3 treatments are allowed.

Another effective drug is Fitoverm. Its special feature is its effectiveness in hot weather. It is better not to use it in cold weather. The damaging effect extends to aphids, moths, whiteflies, leaf rollers, mites and other pests. The effect begins 12 hours after the pest has devoured the treated leaves. A paralyzed insect dies 72 hours after eating poisoned food. It does not affect pest larvae, so repeated treatments are required for complete destruction. To treat pears, use one milliliter of Fitoverm per liter of water.

Fitoverm is used in hot weather

The biological product Iskra Double Effect is an effective and safe means of combating not only aphids, but also flower beetles, codling moths, leaf rollers, etc. The drug is non-phytotoxic, safe for humans, animals, bees, and fish. For ten liters of water during treatment, use 10 ml of the product. Waiting period - 7 days.

The biological product Iskra Double Effect is an effective and safe means of combating not only aphids, but also flower beetles, codling moths, and leaf rollers.

There are many folk methods of fighting aphids. But before using them, you need to know that they are all aimed not at destroying, but at repelling the pest.

• 300 grams of ash are boiled in ten liters of water for half an hour. Before processing, add 40 grams of planed laundry soap.
• 2 tablespoons of ammonia per bucket of water have a similar effect.
• There are many plants, infusions of which repel aphids:
  • chamomile;
  • marigold;
  • dandelions;
  • sagebrush;
  • celandine;
  • yarrow;
  • garlic;
  • red pepper;
  • tomatoes;
  • potatoes and many others.
• To combat aphids, tobacco dust is effectively used, which is filled with water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and left for 48 hours. After this, dilute with water 1 to 3 and spray the pear.

This small jumping insect, no more than three millimeters long, brings many problems to gardeners around the world. Can fly and jump. Thanks to the latter quality, it is sometimes called psyllid. In Russian gardens, the most common are common, spotted and red copperheads. Their appearance is especially widespread after a warm winter. Overwintering in cracks in the bark, as well as in fallen leaves, the insect in early spring is located on the upper ends of young shoots, feeds on their juice, and also extracts juice from buds, buds, flowers, leaves, ovaries and fruits. As a result, the affected leaves and ovaries fall off, the fruits become hard, rocky, and small. We are no longer talking about a normal harvest. From the eggs laid by the honeydew, larvae appear, which, feeding on the same juice, excrete excrement in the form of so-called honeydew. This, in turn, provokes the appearance of sooty fungus, for which sugary secretions are an excellent nutrient medium. As a result, the leaves and shoots stick together and become dirty black.

The dimensions of the pear honeydew do not exceed three millimeters

At this time, the fungus and larvae can be washed off with a stream of water from a hose under high pressure. This should be followed by treatment with bioprotective preparations such as Iskra Bio. Before flowering, you can use the potent drug Komandor. This is a long-acting systemic insecticide that fights against various types of pests, including pear honey worm, psyllid, aphids, pear flower beetle, butterflies, and is also effective against insects found inside the soil. It is used in a wide temperature range - from -3 to +30 °C, optimal values ​​are 15-25 °C. The action begins 2-3 hours after application, and the pest population is completely destroyed within 24 hours. The protective effect lasts for at least two weeks, the drug does not cause addiction. To treat pears, dissolve 4 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water.

Commander is a long-acting systemic insecticide that fights various types of pests

The pear honeydew has natural enemies - ladybugs, lacewings, spiders, ground beetles, fire beetles. The predatory bug Anthocoris nemoralis is particularly effective at eating psyllids. In specialized stores you can purchase these beneficial insects in packages of 200 and 500 pieces. This bug also destroys raspberry flies, ticks, caterpillars, butterflies, moths, leaf rollers, etc.

The bug Anthocoris nemoralis is sold in packs of 200 and 500 pieces

Pear flower beetle

A small weevil overwinters in the soil of tree trunks. With the onset of spring, the flower beetle comes to the surface and rises to the crown of the pear. Female insects chew through the buds and lay eggs inside. A week later, voracious larvae emerge from them, eating away the entire inside of the flowers.

Fruits will no longer grow from flower beetle-affected buds.

In early spring, beetles are collected by hand. To do this, early in the morning, when the air has not yet warmed above +5 °C, and the beetles are sitting on the branches in a daze, they are shaken off onto a cloth previously spread under the tree. Insecticide treatments help completely get rid of the problem. In the period before flowering, you can use the effective drug Fufanon, the effect of which begins one hour after application, and the beetles die completely within a day. The protective effect of the drug lasts for 10-15 days. For 10 liters of water, use 10 ml of Fufanon. Safe access to treated plants is possible after ten days from the date of treatment. After flowering, the treatment should be repeated.

Fufanon will cope perfectly with the gursh flower beetle and not only

A rather dangerous pest, common in gardens located in damp places. Often found in Crimea, the Caucasus, Stavropol and Krasnodar territories. Flying insects 5-6 mm long. Their flight coincides with the turning pink of pear buds and lasts from one to two weeks. After mating, the female makes a cut at the base of the flower and lays one egg in each receptacle. Within two weeks, larvae emerge from the eggs and eat the seed rudiments of young fruits. Then move on to the next ones. Over a period of 3-4 weeks, each larva manages to destroy 3-4 fruits. Damaged fruits darken and fall off. Then the larvae go into the soil, where they overwinter at a depth of 10 centimeters.

Pear sawfly - female and larvae

The problem can be prevented by spraying 5-6 days before flowering with organophosphorus preparations, for example, Metaphos. This is a contact action agent with a wide spectrum. Used to destroy moths, aphids, mites, weevils, sawflies, etc. Add 10 ml of Metaphos to 10 liters of water and spray the pear early in the morning or after sunset. On hot days, treatment is not carried out. A second treatment should be carried out immediately after flowering, and a third after another week. The waiting period is 30 days.

This insect harms early varieties of pear. Overwinters in cocoons in the soil. Depending on the region, butterflies emerge from the beginning to the end of June. This happens about a month after flowering ends. Insect activity is greatest in the twilight hours before complete darkness. Within 30-40 days, the female lays eggs in the middle and upper tiers of the pear. After about a week, the larvae appear. The caterpillars immediately bite into the flesh of the fruit and crawl into the seed chamber. They gnaw out the seeds, filling the chambers with excrement. After 3-4 weeks they leave the fruit and settle down for the winter. As a preventative measure, digging or plowing the soil, followed by treatment with solutions of copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, or potent herbicides, as described above, helps. During the period of butterfly flight and egg laying, 2-3 sprayings are carried out with insecticides - Decis, Fufanon, Fitoverm, etc. Unfortunately, it is impossible to fight caterpillars that have penetrated the fruit.

The fight with the pear moth butterfly begins in the spring

This is the name given to the larvae of various beetles and weevils that emerge from eggs laid in the soil. The most common are: May beetle, April beetle, weevils, pear and apple flower beetles. The sizes of various Khrushchevs range from 4-35 mm. As a rule, they appear in the first half of June. They feed on plant roots and can cause significant damage to young trees. Khrushchev live for about a month, then pupate. An effective drug to combat beetles is Diazinon. In the soil treated with it, it remains effective for three weeks, which is quite enough to destroy the pest population. Does not accumulate in soil and fruits.

Khrushchev damage the roots of young plants

In addition, you can fight Khrushchev by arranging traps for them. To do this, pour a small pile of compost near the pear, water it with water and cover it with black film or slate. After some time, the Khrushchev will begin to move into conditions that are comfortable for them, after which they are simply collected and destroyed.

Frequently Asked Questions

In the process of growing pears, gardeners face various problems.

Pear does not bloom or bear fruit: causes and methods of control

If a pear does not bloom and, as a result, does not bear fruit, there may be several reasons for this:

• An unregistered variety was selected for planting. In this case, fruiting may be delayed for several years, and in the worst case scenario, it may not occur at all.
• Poor quality planting material was purchased. In both cases, we can recommend purchasing seedlings only from specialized nurseries and choosing varieties zoned for the growing region.
• The basic conditions for choosing a landing site are not met:
  • The plant is planted in the shade.
  • Flooding with soil water, as a result of which the roots and trunk become warm.
  • Cold northern winds destroy flower buds even before flowering time.
• Poor plant care means lack of moisture and nutrition.
• Damage to flower buds by pests - pear flower beetle, pear honey beetle.

Why do pears rot on the tree?

Rotting of pears on a tree is caused by fungal diseases - moniliosis, scab, bacteriosis. And also, as a result, fruits affected by the pear moth rot.

The tips of pear branches dry out: causes and methods of control

It is not very easy to identify the cause of this phenomenon. To do this, you need to consider possible options and find the answer by elimination.

• Preheating of roots and trunk due to the close occurrence of groundwater.
• Insufficient watering.
• Freezing as a result of recurrent frosts.
• Bacterial burn.
• Pest damage: pear flower beetle, aphid, copperhead.
• Moniliosis.
• Damage to roots by moles, mole crickets, and beetles.

Methods to deal with the problem will depend on its cause.

Why does a pear produce small, hard fruits?

This phenomenon may be a sign of diseases: scab, black cancer, bacteriosis. It is also highly likely that a pear borer infection can be diagnosed.

What to do with frozen pear branches in spring

Spring sanitary pruning of pears is the answer to this question. All frozen, dry, diseased, damaged branches are cut down to the base using the “ring” method. After this, the cut site is cleaned with a sharp knife and covered with a layer of garden varnish.

Frozen branches are cut into rings in spring

Growths on pear leaves

Any growths on the leaves, as a rule, are a repository of fungal spores. Most likely it is the pear rust described above.

The bark of the pear is cracking

Most often, bark cracks appear in winter as a result of frostbite. This can happen in cases where there is no whitewashing of the trunk and thick branches. On a frosty sunny day, the temperature difference between the bark on the shady and sunny sides of the trunk reaches significant values. As a result, cracks appear at the boundaries of these zones.

Another possible reason is poor-quality whitewashing of trees. It happens that it is partially washed away by rain and stripes remain on the trunk. The white stripes reflect the sun's rays and the bark underneath them remains cold. At the same time, dark stripes with washed off whitewash become very hot. As a result of the resulting temperature difference, cracks occur.

To prevent such a disaster in the fall, it is imperative to whiten the trees and use only high-quality materials. You can add PVA glue to lime whitewash, which will prevent it from being washed off.

If cracks appear, they are cut down to healthy wood, treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate and covered with a layer of garden varnish.

The pear cannot be called a capricious crop, but it suffers from diseases and harmful insects more often than other fruit crops. Compliance with simple and non-labor-intensive sanitary and preventive measures will help the gardener cope with possible problems.

Growing pears in the garden requires a lot of time. You need to select a suitable variety, plant it, care for the seedling, protect it from winter frosts, and finally, after a few years, your tree begins to bear fruit. However, it is too early to relax; now it is very important to protect the garden from various diseases and infections. One of the most common diseases is pear rust. How to treat and how to carry out effective prevention? This is what we will talk about today.

What is it?

We will start with a brief description, without which it is impossible to go further. So, on the pear? What to treat will obviously follow from the explanation of the causes of such an illness. This is a disease that is caused by a fungus. It appears in the form of red spots on the leaves of the fruit tree. If there are few of them, the gardener may not pay attention to them. But in vain. Because it is necessary to know how quickly rust spreads on a pear. We will talk about how to treat this ailment a little later, for now let’s look at the risks for our garden.

So, a few brown spots on the leaves are not a reason to panic. However, closer to autumn, spore-bearing growths will ripen on the reverse side of the leaf. Under gusts of wind they will fly far, several kilometers. After this, rust on the pear will appear throughout the area. It’s time to think about how to treat it, because this disease is progressing slowly but surely. The first year, gardeners can also look at what has settled on the leaves. However, after a few years they will find that there are more brown spots than green leaves. In this case, the tree may even die.

Spread of infection

In fact, when you notice that rust is blooming wildly on a pear, it’s too late to look for something to treat. The best results are obtained by preventive treatment of fruit plants. If it is completed on time, then you don’t have to worry about fungal diseases at all; they are definitely not dangerous for your garden. Treatment must be carried out in the first half of the season, preferably before the plant blooms.

When it becomes obvious that the tree is sick

This will most likely become obvious no earlier than July. It is at this time that spots and stripes of brown color appear on the stems and fruits. This is only the very beginning of the defeat, it will only get worse. The upper part of the leaf is covered with tubercles, and the lower part with cone-shaped outgrowths, in which the fungal spores ripen. Affected leaves quickly dry out and fall off. After a couple of years, the bark will begin to crack; in this case, all that remains is to cut the tree completely and burn it.

How to treat

Usually in this case, the signs are noticeable from very early spring, when the leaves just begin to bloom. Affected areas must be cleaned down to fresh wood. Be sure to cover the wounds with garden varnish. In this case, you need to douse the entire planting with a solution of copper sulfate.

But the gardener does not always have time to notice in time that rust has appeared on the pear leaves in the garden. How to treat if the disease is detected already in development? In this case, a good solution would be 1% Bordeaux mixture or If neither one nor the other is at hand, then cuproxate and copper oxychloride will save the situation.

How the disease develops

Since it is recommended to treat a pear disease (rust) in advance, before its onset, all methods of combating it after the tree has been damaged entail certain losses. These are cut branches, time for rehabilitation and restoration, partial or complete loss of harvest.

Usually the disease begins during the formation of buds on the pear, so the first spraying should be carried out before flowering. Immediately after the end of the flowering period, the treatment must be repeated. It is very important that this procedure is performed before the fruits are formed. After 3-4 weeks, you will need to carry out the final treatment to consolidate the result.

Pruning an affected tree

Treating a pear necessarily involves pruning. Therefore, take a sharp pruner, prepare a garden varnish and carefully inspect the plant. Shoots with serious lesions must be cut back at least 5 cm below the main location of the lesion. Skeletal, hard branches must be shortened even further, by about 10 cm. The cut areas must be well coated with garden varnish. After this, it is recommended to carry out additional feeding so that the tree can restore its own strength.

Modern means

Based on the experience of modern gardeners, we can say that the best remedy for rust on a pear is the Topaz fungicide. Inexpensive, very effective and practically harmless, year after year it is the most purchased product of all that is on the modern market. The first treatment is traditionally carried out when the buds on the trees have just begun to bloom. The second is repeated immediately after flowering, and the third - two weeks after the second. This is usually enough to protect your plantings from rust.

Be sure to keep in mind that the pear suffers from this disease much more severely than the apple tree. It can completely shed its leaves and go into the winter unprepared. In this case, the tree will face almost inevitable death, especially if the winter is frosty. Therefore, the processing of pears should not be neglected under any circumstances.

Other treatments

There is a very effective scheme that allows you to completely cure your garden of this fungal disease. In this case, you will need to carry out a number of treatments, but at a minimal cost and the absence of chemical compounds, you will completely protect your garden. The first spraying should be done before flowering. To do this, take 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes. These can be “Kuprosil”, “Champion”, “Blue Bordeaux”, copper oxychloride.

A second treatment will be required approximately 2 weeks later. An ideal option would be “Cumulus” and “Tiovit” as its substitute. Finally, for the third treatment you can take "Polyram".

This should be enough until next year. However, do not forget that this procedure will protect the plants from only one bacterial infection, and there are many of them today. Therefore, universal fungicides that can protect the garden from all bacterial attacks have proven themselves to be the best.

On your own

To make sure that this scheme is effective, ask the older generation what to do if there is rust on the pear? How to treat? Folk remedies can help no worse than modern fungicides.

Among such products, one can especially highlight a solution of laundry soap. It’s even better if it is dissolved not in water, but in chamomile decoction. It is very good to add a few drops of ammonia to the solution. This product is used for prevention and treatment, but the treatment will need to be repeated every week.

The best fungicides

Do not forget that fungicides must be changed. You cannot use the same products two seasons in a row. The result is the addiction of fungal microorganisms, and as a result, their complete resistance, that is, immunity. To avoid this, some products are changed during the season, others once a year.

In fact, there are a lot of drugs on the market today; every store will offer you a huge selection. Cumulus DF is ideal for pears. It is used for treatment after flowering, with an interval of 10-14 days, each time reducing its concentration by a third. The drug "Propi Plus" has proven itself very well. In general, it is already a classic of gardening.

Today we talked about how to treat pear disease. Rust is a serious bacterial disease that can lead to the loss of not only the crop, but also the tree itself. Therefore, the gardener must always be on alert. First of all, it is very important to carry out prevention, and if you missed treatment and symptoms of the disease appear, then begin treatment so as not to put other gardens at risk.

One of the two pears growing in our garden has yellow spots on the leaves. Apparently this is pear rust. I have never encountered this disease before, I would like to know where rust on pear and apple trees comes from and how to fight this infection?

Vladimir P. Saratov region.

This is what pear rust looks like, photo of leaves affected by this disease:

This is what the lower part of a pear leaf affected by rust looks like.

And these are apple tree leaves with characteristic yellow-orange spots:

Rust on apple trees looks the same as on pear trees.

Many orchards were left without pears and apples last summer due to rust. The manifestation of this disease cannot be ignored. First, rounded greenish and then yellow-red spots with a crimson border or crimson spots without a border appear on the leaves of the pear. Rust leaves similar signs on apple tree leaves. On quince, cushion-shaped orange-red spots with black dots form on the upper side of the leaves. Cherries, cherries, bird cherry, raspberries, and plums are also affected. Already in mid-July, the leaves fall off, sometimes completely.

Juniper is a bad neighbor for apple and pear trees

The methods for treating rust on apple and pear trees are the same, as is the reason for the appearance of this disease - close (and not so close) proximity to juniper.

The first anti-rust treatment on pear is carried out at the beginning of flowering with chorus, the second - two weeks after flowering. An intermediate link in the development of rust is juniper. When planting juniper and fruit trees close together, rust will settle in your garden for a long time.

Juniper that grows 50 meters from the pear.

In early spring, clean the affected shoots and disinfect them with 5% copper sulfate. Affected foliage must be removed and burned or composted. In the summer, when the first signs of the disease appear, you can treat it 2 more times with Abiga-Pik or Raek.

At the end of summer, clearly visible nipple-like outgrowths form on the underside of the leaves, located in groups and individually. When ripe, the outgrowths (aecidia) open. The spores they contain are released and carried by the wind.

These spores cannot infect either a pear or an apple tree. They germinate and form mycelium on the skeletal branches of Cossack juniper. There she spends the winter. You can notice it: thickenings form on the affected juniper branches. Shoots and skeletal branches die. Wounds, swellings, and swellings form on juniper trunks, especially at the root collar.

And this is the result of the proximity of pear and juniper.

In spring, brown outgrowths (teleitospores) appear in cracks in the bark, which swell and become covered with mucus after the first rain. Then basiospores are formed, which are carried by the wind over a radius of 40-50 km and infect pear, apple, plum, and cherry trees.

By the end of July, the leaves of fruit crops are affected and their massive fall begins. This greatly weakens the trees. Spots appear on the fruit near the calyx. Sick fruits are underdeveloped and deformed. Severely affected shoots die.

Treatment of rust on pear and apple trees

Gardeners sometimes begin to sound the alarm at the end of summer, when the deadlines for fighting rust have already passed. If you noticed signs of rust on your trees last season, don't miss the timing of your treatments!

The first spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (Abiga-Pik, Khom) or 0.5% polycarbocin (50 g per 10 l of water) is carried out in the “green cone” phase, the second - in the “white bud” phase, the third - immediately after flowering, repeating after 10-15 days.

In early spring, before the buds open, it is necessary to clean the wounds on rust-affected shoots and skeletal branches until they reach healthy wood. Then the wound must be disinfected with copper sulfate (500 g per 10 liters of water) and, after drying, covered with garden varnish.

Severely affected shoots are pruned, taking 5 cm of the healthy part, and skeletal branches - 10 cm - in late February - early March.

For the treatment to be beneficial

To treat rust on pear and apple trees, copper-containing preparations are most often used. However, you must know how to use such preparations correctly, otherwise, instead of benefiting the tree, they can cause harm.

Bordeaux mixture should not be used:

In hot weather Due to strong evaporation, the concentration of the pesticide on the leaves increases, and this can lead to burns. And this is harmful for the gardener - toxic fumes can be swallowed. Therefore, you only need to spray in the morning or evening.

Early in the spring if the temperature is below minus 5 degrees, you cannot spray - you will get zero results from the treatment and burns of leaves, fruits, and young shoots.

At high temperature and high humidity, even on old trees, Bordeaux mixture can cause burns. Under these conditions, an excess amount of copper sulfate is released from the Bordeaux mixture.

On leaves, burns from Bordeaux mixture appear in the form of brown spots, dying of the edges of the leaf blade or a thick brown mesh on it: such burns also occur from copper sulfate and copper oxychloride.

In order to prevent burns of leaves on pears when treating rust, copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture and copper oxychloride are used more correctly and safely in the early spring, and their substitutes (abiga-pik, cuproxate, etc.) - at a later date. And the land must be protected from excess copper, which has accumulated in large quantities in garden plots.

If spraying is carried out incorrectly (treated in the morning when there was rain or heavy dew), drops of the solution will flow from the foliage to the ground. Therefore, treatment is carried out in the morning after the dew has dried or in the evening. And it should be at least 6 hours before it rains.

If the solution is processed incorrectly (large droplet spray), the spray tip delivers the solution over a short distance (50-60 cm). Not only leaf burns occur, but also premature leaf fall and even the death of young shoots. Burns are visible in the first 2-3 days, and leaf drop appears within a week.

Rust-resistant pear varieties

If you still have the desire to decorate the area with juniper bushes and at the same time grow pears, then you can try planting rust-resistant varieties:

• Summer Williams
• Skorospelka
• Ilyinka
• Vera Ligel
• Vera Boek
• Dekanka autumn

But Clapp's Favorite is very susceptible to this disease.

As for apple trees, they are much more resistant to rust than pears. We have several varieties of juniper growing on our site, and despite this, not a single apple tree has suffered from rust. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said about the pear, from which only a stump and pleasant memories remained.

That was such a pear...

In addition to rust, trees in the garden can be affected by another very common and dangerous disease - scab.

Responsible gardeners invest a lot of effort, money and time to grow healthy and regularly fruiting fruit trees in their garden plots. But how disappointing it can be at the height of the season to discover, for example, that pimples of unknown origin have appeared on the leaves of a pear, because if a fruit tree is sick, you can no longer expect a good harvest from it. One of the most dangerous diseases for pears is the so-called rust. What is it? How dangerous is this disease, and why is it necessary to fight it? More on this later.

Where does rust come from?

It is not difficult to identify diseased shrubs: their needles turn orange and look as if they are scorched. Spores that fall from juniper to pears infect fruit trees with rust. In addition to pears, hawthorn, apple, quince and some other garden crops are also susceptible to this disease.

Symptoms of rust

Rust is dangerous for pears, first of all, because it does not manifest itself in any way until the fungus is firmly established in the cells of the tree. It may take several months from the moment of infection until symptoms of the disease appear.

Rust-affected pear tree

The first sign of a pear being infected with rust is the appearance of yellowish-green spots on the leaves, which later change color and become crimson or rusty (for which the disease was given its name). In the center of each such spot you can see many black dots - this is where the mycelium develops. The reverse side of each affected leaf is soon covered with brown tubercles - spore deposits. The spores that have ripened in them, small as dust, are again carried by the wind throughout the garden and far beyond its borders, infecting other trees and shrubs. Diseased pears gradually shed their leaves, and if no measures are taken to improve their health, they will be left without leaves at all, not to mention fruits.

Spore deposits have formed on pear leaves

In diseased trees, frost resistance is significantly reduced, and severe infection with rust weakens pears so much that they may die before winter sets in. The fungus is especially dangerous for young seedlings.

Severe rust damage to pear bark

Favorable conditions for rust development

The fungus feels most comfortable under the following conditions:

• air temperature 15-20°C;
• air humidity about 85%;
• the presence of other diseases in pears;
• growing juniper and some other conifers next to pears;
• severely dense crowns of fruit trees;
• lack of nutrition.

Treating rust with chemicals

Treatment of fruit trees affected by rust fungus begins in the fall, when leaf fall has already ended. Diseased pears are treated with fungicidal agents. Branches with signs of rust are cut out completely, making no exception even for slightly damaged shoots. The cut areas are smeared with a fungicide, after which the cuts are covered with wax or garden varnish. All fallen leaves are collected and burned along with trimmed branches.

Important! Tools that will be used when pruning branches must be pre-treated with alcohol or another disinfectant.

Spring antifungal treatment of fruit trees is also quite effective. It is carried out in 3 stages: before the beginning of the growing season (until the buds open), immediately before flowering and at its completion.

Chemical preparations used to treat pear rust can be divided into 2 groups: old-style products that have long been used for antifungal treatments, and new generation products. Both are usually made on the basis of sulfur, a chemical element that can stop the growth and development of mycelium, as well as prevent the formation of spores.

Old remedies - copper and iron sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur - have relatively low effectiveness in the fight against rust. They should be used when trees are mildly infected with fungus or during preventive treatments.

Important! Copper and iron-containing preparations should be used with extreme caution, since high concentrations of these substances are toxic to plants.

New generation drugs fight rust using substances that can block the growth of fungal mycelium inside tree tissue at the cellular level. Such drugs include skor, rayek, bayleton, chorus, revus.

Effective fungicides against rust

The listed drugs have individual characteristics that must be taken into account when using them, otherwise antifungal treatments will not bring the desired effect. These features are always indicated in the instructions for use. For example, chorus loses its beneficial properties at temperatures above 25°C, so it is best to treat plants with this preparation in the fall or spring, but not in the hot summer. You can spray revus pears only once per season, so to obtain a lasting effect, the treatment must be carried out at the end of August.

Most chemicals are ineffective if the rust fungus has already entered the sporulation phase. In addition, pathogenic fungi are able to adapt to the long-term action of the same drugs, so experienced gardeners advise alternating fungicidal agents, using each of them no more than 2 times per season.

Important! The big advantage of modern antifungal agents is their wide spectrum of action. When used correctly, they can destroy not only rust, but also many other pathogenic microorganisms that cause diseases such as scab or powdery mildew.

Treatment of rust with folk remedies

Often, gardeners, fearing “chemistry,” try to fight various diseases of fruit trees exclusively using folk methods. When applied to pear rust, this approach is not entirely justified, since the effectiveness of folk remedies is significantly lower than that of chemical preparations. However, the use of various decoctions and infusions in combination with fungicides helps to achieve good results in the fight against fungus. How to spray rust on a pear?

Spring preventative spraying of fruit trees

The following folk remedies are often used for auxiliary purposes:

• Soap-ash solution. Prepare as follows: pour 3 kg of ash into 3 liters of water, cook for 1 hour. Cool and strain. Add grated laundry soap (about half a piece) to the solution. After the soap has dissolved, dilute the mixture with water in a ratio of 1:5. Spray the resulting solution three times with an interval of 10 days.
• Soda solution. To prepare it, pour 100 g of soda into 10 liters of water. Add 4 tbsp. spoons of grated laundry soap. Stir until completely dissolved. Pears are sprayed with the solution once a week; 3 applications per season are sufficient.
• Mullein infusion: 0.5 kg of mullein is poured into 20 liters of water. Leave to infuse in a dark place for about 2 weeks. The resulting infusion is diluted with another 10 liters of water before processing. Fruiting pears are watered with infusion at the root level at the rate of 10 liters per 1 adult tree, 4-6 liters per 1 young seedling. You can also spray the trees with the infusion when they have finished bearing fruit.
• Horsetail infusion. You need 200 g of dry horsetail (70 g of fresh) pour 1 liter of water, boil, boil for 15 minutes. Dilute with warm water so that you get 15 liters of the finished decoction. Second option: pour 1 kg of fresh horsetail with 10 liters of water, leave to infuse for a day in a warm place. Then boil for half an hour. Cool and strain. Trees are treated with horsetail infusion twice with an interval of 7 days. Spraying trees is most effective in hot weather.
• Infusion of marigolds. To prepare it, pour 0.5 kg of marigolds into 10 liters of heated water, let it brew for about 12 hours. Treat the trees with the infusion 2-3 times at weekly intervals.

To increase the efficiency of treatments, you can add a small amount (about 2 tablespoons) of silicate glue to the solutions.

Important! All treatments should be carried out in cloudy, dry weather to avoid sunburn on the already weakened pear leaves, and also to ensure that the applied products and preparations are not immediately washed off by rain.

If it is not possible to wait for suitable weather, it is better to carry out processing either early in the morning or late in the evening.

Rust prevention measures

In order to protect fruit plants from pathogenic rust fungi, you do not need to wait until the leaves with yellow or red pimples are found on the pear. Prevention of the disease begins already at the stage of establishing an orchard and then protective measures are carried out annually from spring to late autumn. The following preventive measures can save pear plantings from rust:

• Correct selection of pear varieties. When choosing, you need to pay attention to the degree of resistance of the variety to fungal diseases in general and to rust in particular.
• Planting pears at the maximum distance from junipers already growing on the site. If this is not possible, you need to carefully monitor not only the health of the pears in the garden plot, but also the condition of the juniper plantings. As soon as the first signs of rust appear on this shrub, all affected branches should be cut off and be sure to destroy them.
• Taking measures to maintain the health of fruit trees and increase their immunity.
• Constant monitoring of the condition of the trees, regular inspection of the foliage for the appearance of brown or red spots. Inspection of the bark for the purpose of timely detection of cracks, ulcers and other damage.
• Timely pruning and thinning of the crown.
• Spring and autumn preventive treatment of trees with fungicides.
• Treatment of plantings with a preparation of biological origin Fitosporin-M. Spraying is carried out in 4 stages: when the buds open, when the trees fade, when the ovaries reach the size of a hazelnut and when fruits the size of a walnut are formed.
• Planting a hedge around the perimeter of the garden plot to trap fungal spores.
• The use of folk methods of protecting fruit trees from rust: spraying the foliage with tinctures of ash, marigolds or horsetail.

New varieties are less susceptible to fungal infection. In fact, many of them were created by breeders not so much to improve taste, but to ensure greater resistance to various diseases. Such varieties as Skorospelka, Grusha Chizhovskaya, Nika, Ilyinka and Dekanka osennyaya are characterized by resistance (sustainability) to the effects of pathogenic fungi. Unfortunately, to date, breeders have not been able to develop a pear variety that will not be at all afraid of rust.