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Like a school desk, which is the main part of the interior of any educational institution. Also, the desk can be usefully implemented at home, which is why it was decided to make a desk for children with their own hands. In this article, I will tell you how the author made an age-appropriate small desk with his own hands and a comfortable chair, which makes it easy to flip through picture books, draw, sculpt from plasticine or lay out toys. Before manufacturing, we need to decide on the materials needed for this.
In order to assemble this homemade product, we need:
* Piano loops 50 cm long.
* Con-firms.
* Self-tapping screws.
*Sandpaper.
*Metal corners.
* Cutting a pine furniture board, for a desk according to scheme 1, and for a chair according to scheme number 2.
Here are all the materials ready.
You will also need tools:
* Electric jigsaw.
* Screwdriver.
*Grinder to facilitate grinding work.
And this is how the drawing of our future desk looks like, since making details with dimensions taken from the head will not only be wrong, but also not accurate.
Step one.
First of all, you need to assemble the desk, and only then the chair, so we gradually proceed to the exciting assembly process. As usual, all wooden parts should have the least roughness, which in other words, just be encrypted. Grinding is best on a grinding machine or with a grinder, but if it is not, then you can use ordinary sandpaper. It should be processed with sandpaper, first coarse P40, then medium P120 and smaller P220. We correct sharp corners with a jigsaw, thereby rounding them. After grinding, it is necessary to cut out semi-circular recesses in the legs, this is done so that the child who will sit at the desk does not experience discomfort, and also so that the knees do not rest when turning to the sides.
Step two.
Now you need to attach the legs to the bottom of the box, we do this with the help of confirmation mats, it is better to screw them with a screwdriver into the holes that need to be made in advance, the diameter of which is slightly smaller. We lower the bottom 8 cm lower than the edge of each of the legs, as shown in the figure according to scheme 3. After that, we fix the front wall of the box, given that its upper edge should be level with the legs, so that the box turns out to be almost perfect and even. Armed with a screwdriver, we attach the back wall of the desk to them with screws, the resulting protrusion should be several centimeters higher than the edges of the legs themselves.
Step three.
A desk without a tabletop is not a desk, so we will attach it now, but we need a piano hinge for this, it must be fastened so that its free movement can allow it to raise and lower the tabletop without any difficulty and sticking, and also so that it the surface when closing had a flat surface, for better contact and evenness. The result is a medium-sized drawer under the tabletop, where you can store things such as sketchbooks, coloring books, supplies, and many other little things.
It is also worth considering that the protruding edge of the rear wall of the desk prevents the pen and the like from rolling and falling on the floor, which can be left on the tabletop without fear that the pen will roll off somewhere when the lid is raised, as in photo 2.
Step four.
This is how we got to creating a chair, we also make it out of wood, after which we fix its legs at an angle to the seat, which we fasten with a trapezoidal support board, at one time it must be inserted in the middle between them, as shown in diagram 4. To to strengthen the structure, knowing that children love to swing on a chair, all its parts at the joints must be fixed using metal corners that can be borrowed from furniture, see photo 3. We also fasten the back, as shown in photo 4. You can increase stability by cutting on the legs in the supporting part there are semicircular recesses. Prematurely cut out a groove for the backrest in the seat, which is shown in photo 5. The latter was rounded in the upper part and a heart-shaped hole was cut so that the chair is easier to carry, this shape is easiest to cut with a jigsaw according to a pre-drawn pattern.
Children have to spend a lot of time studying. Take care of the convenience of work and the correct position of their backs by making a children's desk with your own hands.
This universal product, due to the possibility of adjusting its height to the individual parameters of the child, will suit a student of absolutely any age.
Such a desk will provide an ideal posture and reduce the load on the visual apparatus. Of course, you can buy a rare desk that an experienced craftsman will restore to excellent condition, but if you have the materials, tools and skills, why not try to make a desk with your own hands?
Base
From the end part of the guide element, you need to make a groove of 10x10 mm, round off the edges, fix the components of the legs together using threaded studs (GOST22042-76), washers (6958-78) and M8 wing nuts (3032-76).
To fasten the top shelf and the shelf for the legs, you can use confirmations or wood screws.
lifting mechanism
The starting material is a planed board.
Grooves 10x10 mm should be milled from the outer sides of the guide elements, at their end.
In the center it is necessary to make through holes with a diameter of 20 mm.
tabletop
The starting material is a sheet of plywood.
For the manufacture of the rotary mechanism, you will need 2 mm sheet metal. It is attached to the table top with wood screws. Instead of metal, you can use wooden blocks to make the rotary mechanism.
It remains to insert the lifting mechanism into the grooves and attach the table top to the mechanism that regulates the rise, using studs, M8 nuts and washers.
The children's desk is ready.
The presented model allows:
- adjust the height of the desk within 570-720 mm in increments of 50 mm;
— vary the angle of inclination from 0 to 90° in steps of 5°.
The optimal tilt angle of the tabletop for drawing is within 0-5°, for writing - from 10 to 15°, for reading - 20-30°.
The desk can be completed with shelves and niches for storing stationery.
If you have any questions or difficulties, the Home Master will help, which you can find on the online service for ordering services.
Good luck to you! May you succeed!
Do-it-yourself children's desk, drawings, description and assembly procedure.
DIY children's desk
The proposed model will be able to serve your child for a long time up to the senior classes.
If your child has gone to school, then you are faced with the acute question of choosing a desktop or desk for his normal development. Correct posture and reduction of eye strain require an individual approach when choosing a workplace that can adapt to the growth of each student.
Side view (maximum table extension)
Side view (minimum table extension with table top rotation)
The presented model allows:
- adjust the height of the table from 570 to 720 (mm), the adjustment step is 50 (mm)
- adjust the tilt angle of the table from 0° to 90° (the maximum angle is set theoretically), the adjustment step is 5°
— drawing from 0° to 5°
– letter from 10° to 15°
- reading from 20° to 30°
Components of a children's desk:
- base
- table top lifting mechanism
- countertop
BASE
We will make from a planed board. From the inside of the guide board, at the end, we mill a groove measuring 10x10 (mm). The sharp edges of the parts are rounded off. We fasten the parts of the legs together with:
for M8 thread.
We attach the top shelf and the footrest to the legs with wood screws or confirmations.
LIFT MECHANISM
We will make from a planed board. From the outer sides of the guide board, at the end, we mill grooves along the edges with a size of 10x10 (mm). We drill through holes with a diameter of 20 (mm) in the center.
WORKTOP
We will make from glued wood or plywood.
We will make the rotary mechanism from sheet metal with a thickness of 2 (mm) and attach it to the table top with wood screws. Alternatively, it can be made from wooden blocks.
Assembly order:
1. We insert the lifting mechanism into the grooves of the base.
2. We fix the tabletop to the lifting mechanism with the help of studs, washers and M8 nuts.
The children's desk is assembled with their own hands. Using the proposed concept for the design and construction of the structure, you can modify and supplement the model yourself with various shelves, pencil cases and glasses for stationery.
Do-it-yourself growing desk drawings
Do-it-yourself growing school desk, drawings, diagrams and functional dimensions of the table that can ensure the normal and healthy development of the child during classes.
Requirements for children's tables are regulated by GOST 11015-93 "Student Tables". Based on the specified GOST, they are made in six numbers and have their own color marking, depending on the average height of the student.
The model described in this article allows you to adjust the desk in two functional sizes for the average height of a student from 105 to 180 (cm):
- on the height of the working plane from 460 to 760 (mm) (∆h = h1 – h = 300) with an interval of 50 (mm)
- by the angle of rotation of the working plane from 0 to 16° (∆φ = φ1 – φ = 16) (four positions 7, 10, 13.16°)
The presented model consists of three assembly units:
- Tabletop.
- Movable stands.
- Fixed racks.
1. TOP
The size of the working plane is 500x700x20 (mm).
Do-it-yourself children's desk drawings
The desk cover (1) is installed horizontally, or fixed at an angle of 7, 10, 13 or 16°. Two plates are welded to the square pipe (2) 15x1.5 (mm): fastening of the rotary axis (3); fixing the angle of rotation of the table top (4). The tube (2) is attached to the tabletop with four screws (6). The end plane is closed with a decorative cap (5). The tabletop has two recesses 220x20x5 (mm) for pencils, pens and other accessories.
How to make a children's table so that it is both an original desk for a child and at the same time a house for toys. In this article, we'll show you how to do it all in one day.
Many parents prefer to buy a ready-made table for the child and not strain. But there are those who simply cannot afford it. Or they like to do everything with their own hands and to the desired dimensions of their interior. The advantage of this table is its versatility. This is a desk, and a house for playing, and a place to store toys.
In order to make a wooden desk, you need to purchase material, a sheet of furniture chipboard, of a suitable color. And you can design it from the remnants of material from previous creations, or from unnecessary furniture. It is such an economical option that will be described in this article, and in addition, you can read what else you can do
Necessary tool and material
- Electric jigsaw (hand circular saw)
— Hacksaw for metal
- Manual milling machine (can be replaced with a drill bit for wood of the desired diameter)
- Drill
- Corner with ruler
- Stationery knife
- Roulette
- Pencil 
Material
– chipboard
- fiberboard
— Self-adhesive film of suitable color
- End tape on chipboard, matching color
- Self-tapping screws or furniture screws, nails
accessories
— Piano loop 1 pc.,
— Furniture hinge 4 pcs.,
Let's move on to the dimensions of the parts and the drawing
First you need to sketch a drawing on paper, do not forget that you can change the dimensions if you wish. 
— Sidewalls 2 pcs. (300 mm x 790 mm), the angle can be 90 - 60 degrees;
— Shelves 3 pcs. (520 mm x 300 mm), shelf length, taking into account the thickness of the side walls;
— Doors 2 pcs. (280mm x 120mm);
– Roof 2 pcs. (295mm x 600mm), you can make one half of the roof from fiberboard;
— Back wall 1 pc. (520 mm x 560 mm), it can also be lightened and cut from fiberboard.
Cut out the details of the table - the house
So, let's get to work. On the surface of the prepared material, draw the details in size with a pencil and cut them out with an electric jigsaw. 
Attention! The width of the roof details must necessarily be wider than the main structure by two centimeters on each side 
The ends at the cut point of the chipboard parts must be glued with an adhesive-based end tape. Attach the tape to the end and gently iron it with a hot iron, laying a sheet of paper between the tape and the iron. Cut off the excess tape with a sharp knife. 
We connect the prepared parts
Making the foundation
Screw three shelves to one sidewall with screws. On the other side of the shelves, attach the second sidewall in the same way. In order to hide the screws, they must be sunk into the body of the material. To do this, drill in the right place of the recess with a drill exceeding the diameter of the screw head. On the front side, the hats can be puttied, if after that it is planned to decorate the butt. Otherwise, use furniture screws with plastic plugs or stickers. It turned out the frame of the future desk 
Installing the roof
We take a piano loop and measure the desired size, cut off the excess with a hacksaw for metal. We fasten the loop to the upper shelf and the sidewall of the roof at the level of the chipboard thickness. In order that, when laying out the table, the loop would not separate the working area of the desk.
The second part of the roof is simply screwed to the base. 
We install the doors
Table doors can be attached both to the piano hinge and furniture hinges. It must be remembered that when using a piano hinge to fasten the door, limiters must be set.
Consider the second method of fastening - a furniture loop.
Important! The doors must be of the correct size, as they serve as the leg of the folding table.
To fix the door with a furniture hinge, a milling machine was used (or use a special drill). Handles can be made both in the form of holes (decorate them for children's style), and screw any furniture.
We simply nail the back wall of fiberboard.
decoration
All visible parts (optionally also internal) can be painted or pasted over with a decorative self-adhesive film. In order for the film to hold for a long time and stick as tightly as possible to the product, it is necessary to use a soft cloth and a hair dryer.
The children's desk is ready, so it looks assembled and looks more like a house: 
And this is how it looks disassembled and looks more like a desk or table: 
We assemble a growing chair with our own hands.
I think it would be superfluous to once again talk about the relevance of the problem of maintaining correct posture in children. One of the most important conditions is to ensure the correct posture when sitting, which depends on many parameters. Ordinary chairs will not fit. Unfortunately, office chairs with a gas lift are also not able to solve this problem, since they do not have an adjustable footrest or seat adjustment, and seat height and back angle adjustments alone are not enough. In such a situation, a special adjustable chair will be a great solution!
On the Internet you can find many different options for every taste. From all the variety, I chose the design I liked.
The design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. She is very technical. It is important to take into account the ratio of the dimensions of the elements, their relative position, strength and stability of the entire structure. Of course, no drawings could be found either on the manufacturer's website or on the Internet. Therefore, I had to develop the drawings myself. The more interesting. It took several days to design.
Unfortunately, I do not have a plotter at my disposal to display images of the required size, and the program in which I worked does not know how to print large images in parts (or simply could not figure out how to do it). Therefore, we had to solve the problem in a roundabout way. The detail drawings were saved as regular high resolution photos. Then, using the free PosteRazor program, they were converted into PDF documents containing drawings in the desired scale and divided into separate sheets of A4 format.
Do I have the right to publish them? Am I violating someone's copyright? After all, I spied a chair on the Internet and someone developed it! Let's figure it out.
This situation can be viewed from two points of view: ethical and legal. We will omit the ethical side of the issue, because here a whole range of well-reasoned opinions is possible, and most likely it will not be possible to come to the truth. But from a legal point of view, the search for truth is not so hopeless.
So, legally, a chair cannot be an object of copyright. In this case, according to the Civil Code, it can be either a utility model or an industrial design, which are recognized and protected only on condition of state registration, on the basis of which the federal executive body for intellectual property issues a patent. There is no mention of any patents on the manufacturer's website, most likely, no one patented this chair. To be honest, I don’t see what can be patented there - in comparison with analogues, neither special novelty nor originality. Although the design is quite successful. And I didn't find it on www.freepatent.ru either. This means that I will not violate anyone's patent rights for lack of such.
But the drawings, according to the Code of Administrative Offenses, are objects of copyright and are protected without any registration by default, as a type of work of fine art (computer programs, by the way, as literary works). The drawings developed by me are not an exact copy of the original, which is not available to me, but are the result of intellectual work and reflect my vision of the design, the general features of which I saw in the photographs. And I have every right to publish the results of my work as an author. Unlike those who, without permission and reference to the source, post articles from my blog on their sites to attract visitors. Photographs need to be copyrighted.
Well, enough tediousness, it's time to get to work!
Drawings of a growing chair can be downloaded from the link: https://yadi.sk/d/-nS9on3WmbxdF
If there is no part in the archive, then its description will be further down the text.
We print them like a regular multi-page document on A4 sheets. At the same time, in the Acrobat Reader print wizard, it is important not to forget to specify the "Actual size" scale. As a result, after gluing individual sheets, we get a drawing of the part on a scale of 1: 1.
We cut out the drawing of the racks along the contour and paste it on a sheet of plywood.
Plywood 22 mm thick was chosen as the material for the racks. Cut out the first part, stepping back from the contour of 5 mm. In general, the quality and accuracy of the cut is not very important. If only there was some reserve.
Now the resulting rough edges of the workpiece must be aligned exactly according to the drawing. I usually use the term "comb" to refer to this action. To do this, we press a flat rail to the workpiece along the line of the drawing and pass along the edge with a copy cutter with an upper bearing. The roundings were processed by directing the milling cutter with the hands, followed by the adjustment of the roundings with a grinder. You can spend more time on this blank, because. it will serve as a template and the quality of the rest of the racks depends on the quality of its processing.
Now, having a template, we mark and cut out the rest of the blanks for the racks
Next, using self-tapping screws, we fix the template on the blanks. To tighten the screws in the template, we make holes in those places where there will be holes for attaching the seat and footrest. In this case, the head of the twisted self-tapping screw should not protrude from the template.
And with the help of a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpiece according to the template.
Using a milling cutter inserted into the table, we make a groove in which the elements fixing the seat and footrest will move. For simplicity, I decided to call them runners. The depth of the groove is 10 mm, the width of the groove is 24 mm (maybe it would be more convenient to make the width of the groove equal to the width of the existing plywood - 22 mm, but there was no such cutter in the workshop).
In the middle of the groove, we make holes at equal distances. On the reverse side of the workpiece, at the exit point of the drill, it is imperative to place a bar so that the drill does not break out the bottom layer of veneer. It will be extremely difficult to close or mask such a chip.
We do the same with runners. We print the drawing in real size, cut it out and paste it on a plywood sheet. Next, cut out with a margin and "comb" as we did with the stand template.
From the same sheet of plywood 22 mm with a jigsaw, roughly cut out future runners with a margin.
With the same screws we fix the template on the workpiece
And on the milling table, using a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpieces according to the template.
Using an edge molding cutter, we round the edges on all the resulting parts. Rounding radius 4.8 mm.
Next, a rail is cut out, with the help of which the runners engage with the chute on the uprights. Rail height 20 mm, width 24 mm. Because I didn’t have either 20 mm or 24 mm plywood, it was decided to make the rail from massive ash. This wood has excellent strength characteristics.
A corresponding groove was made in the runners on the milling table and the slats were glued into it. At the same time, when you make a gutter, you must not forget that the runners are right and left.
After the glue dries, the slats are sawn and ground flush with the body of the runners. Also, holes are made in the runners for fixing them on the racks.
Also in the runners, grooves are milled parallel to the floor. Gutter depth 10 mm, width 16 mm. Seats and footrests will be fixed in these gutters. In the next photo you can see the finished runners.
We do the same with the seat and footrest templates: we print the drawing, glue it on plywood and cut out the blank.
In order to make even roundings, I used a thin rail of 5 mm plywood, passed between the self-tapping screws that set the desired radius. It bends well and creates smooth transitions. How it is done can be seen in the photo:
As a result, we get two templates - footrests (left) and seats (right). Next, we work with them according to an already worked out scheme - we mark the workpieces (circle the templates with a pencil) and cut them out using a jigsaw with an indent of 5 mm. 16 mm plywood was used for them, although 22 mm is also possible. We fix the template on the workpiece with self-tapping screws and work out the edges with a copy cutter. With ready-made templates, the whole operation takes a few minutes. The small holes left on the finished parts from self-tapping screws can either be simply ignored due to their small size, or hidden with putty at the grinding stage. Personally, I went the first way. Don't forget to round off the edges with an edge cutter.
The template for the back did "in place". Therefore, there is no drawing of the back. I made the top and bottom edges according to the seat template. Backrest height 100 mm, Width 464 mm (depth of the groove for the backrest in the uprights 10 mm). After the template is ready, we make a couple of backs on it using an electric jigsaw and a copy cutter in a few minutes.
There are three crossbars in the chair. They are made from the same 22 mm sheet. The dimensions of the crossbars that fix the runners are 399x50x22 mm. The lower crossbar (in the lower part near the floor) - 444x30x22 mm. Using a 10 mm straight cutter, we make grooves for countersunk furniture nuts - barrels.
Next, we make a groove for the backrest. The angle of the backrest was chosen in accordance with GOST 19301.2-94. "Children's preschool furniture ..." The angle of inclination of the back along it is at least 5 degrees or more. My chair has an angle of 11 degrees - I find it a very comfortable angle.
We get a small pile of details
Each chair is assembled on hexagon bolts and furniture countersunk barrel nuts. Bolts have dimensions 6x70 and 6x50, nuts - 10x20 and 10x12. The mounting kit is shown in the photo.
Ready. As they say, "it seems to be true." During assembly, the quality of workmanship and fitting of parts is checked, minor flaws are eliminated, and “finishing with a file” is carried out. At this sawing-drilling-milling stage is completed.
The sanding and painting phase begins. Now the chairs are completely disassembled and all parts are sanded before coating. I used paper 180. In some places I had to fiddle with 80 and even 40.
Painting work is a separate discipline. A bad finish can ruin the whole job. Winter on the street and the lack of heating in the workshop made their own adjustments to the usual process. I had to paint the chair right at home. Therefore, neither an airbrush nor multi-component smelly varnishes can be used - only non-stinky water varnish and a brush.
Because the chair was made from the remnants of plywood, some parts were dirty. Unfortunately, it was not possible to completely get rid of them by grinding, so I decided to cover one chair with a dark color - "mahogany", the second - with a glossy opaque milky enamel. So far, only the first one is ready. The second, dairy, is waiting for its time.
If, after applying the first layer of varnish, the color lay unevenly, the details are covered with bald spots due to varying degrees of absorption, the pile has risen and the surface has become like sandpaper, and in general it all looks terrible and you want to quit everything, then you are on the right track. After the first layer has dried (after three or four hours), we take sandpaper with a grain size of 180 and grind all the raised pile. Next, we put the second layer, after which the surface became a little better after drying - there is no pile and the color is smoother, but still far from the picture on the label of the varnish can. Therefore, we matte the details with the same sandpaper and put the third layer. Behind him is a fourth. And so on. Continue until you are satisfied with the result. Five layers were enough for me, for which two days were spent.
The growing chair is ready. The cost of two chairs is a sheet of plywood 1500x1500 mm 22 mm thick, fasteners for 50 rubles. and a can of varnish. This also includes electricity, depreciation of fixed assets, the salary of a worker.
I saw similar designs on Amazon for 250 US dollars - not a price, but some kind of tin. We have them, of course, much cheaper.
Despite the questionable design, the design is quite well thought out.
This is not just a children's chair, it's more of an office furniture for a student. Because it is schoolchildren who spend many hours first at home, and then at computer games, and for them the correct comfortable posture for posture, less fatigue and preservation of vision is important. At the same time, students are still actively growing.
For greater comfort, you can make removable soft pads on the seat and back. As an option. But I do not see a special need - usually school furniture without pillows. Armrests are also unnecessary, because during writing or when working on the keyboard, the elbows should lie freely on the table so as not to cause tension in the shoulders. All these calculations are described in a whole set of GOSTs and the growing chair corresponds to them. In general, I am pleased with the result.
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